Greydog

How long have you had the car? Have you talked to the dealer who did the work? Is it the supplying dealer? If so get them to sort it under the sale of goods act. If they can't or wont ask for your money back.

O2 sensors will rarely cause rough running, how ever a blocked cat will. Get them checked. You can also swap the cam sensor from Bank 2 to Bank 1 if the rough running follows the change you have your culprit.

As they had the cam covers off they may have disturbed coil packs or wiring, worth a check as you say it runs rough unless you rev it

Have you been doing any work on the car lately? If it is a V8 both the Thermostat wiring and plug and the Cam Sensor and Vanos solenoid plugs (left bank)

are at the top front of the cylinder head make sure all plugs are clean and connected.

If the plugs haven't been disturbed I would change the Thermostat that should clear the map sensor. the cam sensors are interchangeable so you can swap left bank for right (inlet for exhaust on a 6) to see if it moves the problem, if it does change the cam sensor (or both for belt and braces) If it is a Vanos issue then you may need some more advanced diagnostics as it could be the solenoid or the mechanical unit itself.

Fingers Crossed its a simple fix

Have you checked all fuses, right side of boot and glove box (Note the glove box needs a double jointed dwarf with very thin fingers) Next I would disconnect the Bluetooth unit beneath the floor on the left of the boot, leave it disconnected for at least 20 mins make sure the key is out. This should allow the unit to reset.

If that doesn't work as Daz says you need some diagnostic help, or a new ULF/TCU

As Steve says first step cancel the codes (it works like a reset) then see what comes back I had similar codes on my Drivers mirror it was a broken wire where the loom entered the mirror housing solder and tape all fixed.

Most of the codes I have found on mine are down to old age (the cars 11) and connectors need separating spraying with contact cleaner and re-seating clear codes and no return.

Enjoy

Good luck. I think all the grills are Black Plastic so you may have to spray them to match if yours are Silver

I think the bumper has to come off, I have also been told it is easy to snap the plastic clips that hold them on so take care. have you tried Quarry Motors in Sheffield they are specialist BMW breakers and have helped me a couple of times with trim bits (mirror covers, PDC sensors) Have a look at their web site to see what they have in.

Good Luck

Greydog Horsham

realoem shows 2 Cam Sensors Part Number 12147539166 (item 3)

If it were crankshaft sensor then I doubt the engine would run at all so discard that for now. As the part numbers is the same there should be no problem swapping them if you do and read the codes the code should change PO021 I believe if it does you have a faulty sensor if the code doesn't change it could be a Vanos solenoid sticking or faulty on bank 1

Dave

May be a shot in the dark but have you checked the Alternator and Aircon/Waterpump belts if one is frayed it could cause a noise

There are 2 cam sensors on the V8 and 2 knock sensors. The knock sensors will throw the Check Engine light under load but can be reset and won't come back until the engine is under load again. Cam sensors will be your likely culprit, As they changed the MAF I would be checking the all the wiring and connectors on the left bank around the MAF. The wiring looking for any sign of breaks or damage. The connectors for correct seating, I would unplug each one visually inspect and spray connector cleaner then re-seat.

It's just too much of a coincidence that it all happened after the work was done. I am assuming all was quiet and smooth prior to the work?

If you get BMW 1.4.0 I used an old laptop that I had here and keep just for Diagnostics (Volvo, Subaru Merc, BMW) running Win 98 I have read of people having to faf about when loading it onto new machines. INPA apparently is more forgiving.

Good luck

Getting caught once, OK. Twice ! maybe, but more than that he isn't bright enough to cope with kids so should have had his breeding licence revoked before he got into trouble.

What model X5 do you have? You said BMW changed the MAF I would have them checking that they hadn't disturbed the sensor loom and connectors

If you look at www.realoem.com enter the last 7 digits of your VIN it will bring up the spec for your car. Then click browse parts then Engine Electrical system in Main Group and Ignition in the Sub Group then click on the sensor drawings, you will be able to see the part numbers (should you need them)

As you read your codes it would help you if you purchased a copy of BMW 1.4.0 or INPA (look on Ebay) they will allow you to do and understand much more as it will clearly identify the cause in English not code. You can reset faults and check whether they return (fault codes can be triggered by many things fro failed part to low battery voltage) Then when talking to the Dealer you will have more knowledge at your finger tips. Or if you are going to DIY again combined with realoem can help a great deal.

For my ten peneth I would be worried about causing engine damage driving it in its current state. However as this has all transpired since you had work done I still suspect a connector or two has been disturbed.

If its been running knackered Cat's I would suspect that there is a lot of carbon in the system MAF MAP EGR. I would suspect will all show faults so Dabsy is right on the money, first port of call is a session on the computer. Make sure it is someone with Autologic or BMW software or they may not show up. Reset and see if it makes a difference if not I guess you have a lot of cleaning to do.

Google tells me that's a camshaft position sensor code, could it be a coincidence? Or could a ham fisted Tech have dislodged something? Try looking on www.realoem.com for where its located so you can check. Or get the "Mr angry" hat on and ask BMW whats going on

Nah, I am an "old bloke" from the school of "if its working don't fix it" but I have read on other sites were people have changed all interior lights with out issues

It seems the tail lights and side lights can give problems with flicker which is thought to be caused by the self test circuits.

Are the LED? I have heard of people having issues as the puddle lights fage in and out

+1 O2 sensor code, my bet would be a loose connector as its just been "fixed" by BMW could be a connector not seated. Take it back with your "Mr Angry" hat on

Left hand side sounds right, mine has right at the top a small black plastic box (Bluetooth antenna) then the Nav then a gap then the CD player, the Bluetooth ULF is below the floor on the same side. You have the play station between the Nav and CD. Getting to the Radio Module and TV unit is a PITA due to the cunning way its buried under the floor, spare and suspension compressor. Your wife is going to build up some muscles heaving everything out of the boot that or she is going to build you a ramp!!

If I get time I will take some pictures and upload them it may help

OK in realoem did you press browse parts after entering your Vin? once you have done that look under Navigation.

As the play station is in the boot hopefully it has been fitted as a stand alone and no one has tried to hack it into the BMW system.

So you have a screen up front what menu do you get? does it show Navigation (is that working) Telephone, OBC, TV etc. You say your having signal problems with the radio as well? The radio and TV units are buried under the spare wheel and suspension compressor under the boot floor, if you don't feel confident in digging in there what about the seller? If it was a Garage contact them and get them to sort it. Or if its something you want to sort yourself take out the spare, lift the compressor (no need to disconnect it) and check the Radio unit connections and antenna connection (just in front of the Battery) The TV module is to the right of the Battery under a plastic cover check that both antenna cables are connected and both multi plugs seated properly.

If your TV tuner is analogue then it wont work (just a fuzzy screen) you can add a Video input lead and connect a freeview tuner this will add another remote though.

Check all the fuses glove box and rear right of the boot.

Welcome and congratulations. Have a look on www.realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your chassis number and it will bring up your cars spec, if you then search the TV option you can see the components.

Check that you have a Digital Tuner if its analogue then it wont work without a freeview tuner that could be why you have a remote? You say you have a playstation is that in the boot or the back of the car? Another reason for a remote check if you have a Webasto unit to give Aux Heating on the OBC screen you should have either Aux Heating or Aux Vent

Mine is an E53 with Mk4 Nav and Bluetooth so may vary from yours but after a battery change I had no voice input. I had to "activate the System" my handbook says hold the steering wheel voice button until the acoustic signal is heard. VOICE RECOGNITION should show in the Check Control.

When I pressed the voice button I heard no signal until I gave the command "Volume Up" I had to repeat it 3 times, Now if I say Map the Nav comes up If I say Dial number/name it works. I have to say though I rarely use it its just as quick using the on screen menu I just like to know everything works as it should.

Hi Paul Welcome

Have a look on www.realoem.com to see if there was a seven seat kit, or ask your dealer. Not some thing I am aware of, good luck with the search

Fingers crossed its not expensive let us know what it is?

You really need someone with Autologic or dedicated BMW diagnostic software. The ECU has a memory so someone with the right kit will see the "local history" Many things can cause misfires but all 8, that's unusual. As Dabsy says MAF prime suspect but there are others, I would find a Bosche Auto Centre or BMW Specialist £50 on diagnostics is cheaper than guessing or doing nothing and causing engine damage.

Have you contacted the seller?

Really hard to diagnose anything by description but her goes. When sitting at rest engine running foot on the brake select D or R any noise or lurch or clunk? If not I would say no issues with the linkage or box. When starting to reverse is there a single clunk/crunch noise or is it continuous?

Single noise I would check the sub-frame bushes suspension bushes exhaust and heat shield mounts. If continuous I would look for something rubbing on a wheel, brake disc's, drive shafts etc, if the noise is a continuous clicking check the transfer box, chains are known to wear and jump as are front prop shafts. Have you checked oil levels in the diffs and transfer box? Good Luck