Greydog

Morning Simon

Welcome to the Forum

If there is that much oil in the Header Tank it follows that water should be in the sump what is the Dip stick showing

I have never seen anything like that before ? by the stains around the top of the header tank it almost looks like it has been poured in there?

I have read of unscrupulous buyers distracting owners and pouring oil into header tanks then claiming head gasket failure and offering stupid low price to complete the sale. But thats OTT

I doubt the engine would be running well if that much oil is being lost to the cooling system. First I would carry out an oil change if there is water in the oil then you will see it around the oil cap as a creamy residue and definitely in the drained oil. If the drained oil is OK and the Oil Filler Cap clean next step is drain the coolant remove the header and clean it (if possible) with the coolant drained you should be able to check the oil cooler and its seals to the rad 

Good luck detecting the cause

Dave

I would look at systems like i-Carsoft V3 Foxwell 510, but the best and most comprehensive is ISTA. I have seen all of these on the Bay and Amazon for between £100 and £150 

Do a google search for BMW Diagnostic software, Good Luck

Dave

If the splice has been repaired properly, there are K-can High (Orange/Green trace) and K-can Low (Green) both need doing then it should clear , I know I have done a few. Then you have the Chassis Can (ICM) which has its own can High and can Low, the DSC has PT-can links High and Low 

Then common sense dictates you have an issue with other K-can splices there are several in the Main Loom floor level and under the dash

I would either check myself or find a another Garage bearing in mind this is the garage that has taken £1000 of your money every time telling you "this will fix it".  If you can't be bothered yourself get an Auto Electrician as all your doing is throwing money at it/them. It really isn't that complicated 

Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's your car and money just go back to your very first post and see the answer/advice given

Dave

Hi Cliff

I believe you are spot on if there is no dealer code it wasn't a BMW Dealer so you have no proof other than an entry on the infotainment that it was done unless there a receipts with the paperwork 

As for brakes the problem comes from use eg. A high mile motorway warrior will cover huge distances between brake use/application so needing a change where as a School run car may use its brakes much faster, for me physical inspection is the only way

Dave

Good luck Steven

Key is getting the K-bus faults cleared then work through the others if they still show. Important point make certain the Battery is in good condition and fully charged

Dave

Morning Steven 

I actually posted pictures of the cause for K-bus faults 

The problem is in the boot mainly so the first thing needed is to fix the bus faults, only then will you be able to clear down faults and find the cause of the issue if indeed you have one. Then of course there is the uncomfortable conversation with the garage about who should pay for all the unnecessary works and component changes.

So again

In the pictures you can see cable splices in the main wiring loom in the boot the loom is located on the boot floor below the Fuse board in the right hand cubby you will need to remove a bit of trim to get to it 

BMW make these splice/joints by twisting and compressing the join then covering it with a clear plastic sleeve. Moisture gets in and the black stain you see through the clear plastic is corrosion. The pic Cable splices shows the K-bus on the left of the picture Yellow/green Orange with mine they just fell apart so I remade them with soldered joins and shrink wrap after digging I re-made all the joins you see in the pictures 

That is where you need to start 

Your Garage seem clueless show them these picture tell them that is where the issue starts and hopefully ends then they can clear the K-bus and you may have a chance of sorting any issues that remain. If the control units they have changed have not been registered to the chassis they may need doing but start with the K-bus

Personally I would DIY so you know its done

Dave

Morning JC

Bit of a history lesson coming up 😅

A generic scanner won't help much as it will only read Key components DME maybe Transmission etc, most of the high end manufacturers use a dedicated Bus system to allow communication between control units. Due competition laws in the US Manufacturers had to allow some access hence the Generic scanners can see the key components indicate a fault not necessarily the cause. Early systems often ended up with people changing parts until the issue was fixed or they got rid of the car. As an example a Misfire could be a sensor issue, an Air/Vacuum leak or a fuel pressure issue. I have always enjoyed maintaining my own cars so have gathered a comprehensive tool kit since the late 80's diagnostics became more and more important so In my home garage I have an old Windows 7 laptop that now runs diagnostic programs for cars I have owned  Mercedes Star, Volvo, Range Rover, Toyota, Subaru, and of course BMW. Early BMW's used I-bus communication so I brought a copy of BMW 1.4.0 (£20) which was a  revelation, it showed my 2001 4.4 X5 had 70+ control units several with attendant sensors it also allowed me to alter or set Comfort functions that normally were Dealer only and charged appropriately £££ 🤣. When BMW moved to K-bus and MOST (2006>) it required an upgrade in Diagnostics to INPA (nothing to do with restoring Dealer exclusivity of course) Happily the hackers soon had copies available and the same is true of the latest iteration ISTA which lives on my laptop in the garage 😁

My current E70 X5 has 97 control units plus sensors (I believe your X3 is similar) with my TPMS on the cars screen it will warn if a tyre looses pressure but with INPA/ISTA I can see and set pressure differentials by % INPA/ISTA will tell me if it is a sensor problem or control module problem. I can interrogate individual sensors and get Part numbers etc. The program also has WIS (workshop information system) TIS (technical information system) and Wiring diagrams. New or exchange control units can be Programmed to the car so all Dealer functions are covered. My copy of INPA/ISTA cost £100 if I recall and over the last 10 years has saved me and friends and family many times that. 

My last issue was a rear suspension problem ISTA told me Rear Left ride height sensor continuity on inspection the plug had started to disintegrate so replacement plug and re-pinned total cost £11 and a couple of hours of my time 

There are many systems available now Autel, i-Carsoft, Foxwell and several others all are around the £100 mark though as always if you have deep pockets you can pay more 😁

Good Luck hope the above is helpful

Dave

Hi Gary

I did the exact job for a friend of my wife, I did a search of www.realoem.com for the correct part numbers left/right then she searched Google and brought both spindle drives for £110 delivered with 2 year warranty. Changing them requires trim removal so a decent set of trim removal tools and a Torx set will be needed. I did use a garden rake with a towel wrapped around it to support the tail gate as neither of the girls could reach 😅. The rest is straight forward, though getting all the trim out of the way is fiddly the job is plug and play. Couple of good Videos on line

About 21/2 hrs work with Tea and biscuits 🤣

Dave

Morning JC

Look like you brought a scanner that just does TPMS systems ?? 

I have 2 Diagnostic scan tools (1) BMW INPA/ISTA which is the same as BMW Dealers use and (2) iCarsoft both systems will give me a code that indicates which wheel sensor is at fault or if it is the Controller. Plus of course they also read all other control units on the car.

With your monitor what does the Instruction book say? does it give a list of codes and their meaning? 

TP sensors do fail some have batteries in them they are not expensive to buy online (Ebay, Amazon etc) the costly bit is to fit them, obviously tyres need to come off and be refitted. If it was me I would wait until tyre change time 

Dave

Morning Jim

A Seat owned by a neighbours wife from new but only used for school run duties was completely clogged at lower miles than yours. Predictably the Dealer said new Turbo new EGR and a swathe of other parts £££, a local Diesel specialist stripped, cleaned and rebuilt everything and gave her the advice to give the car a good run at motorway speeds once a month. Years ago my son had issues with his Toyota pickup the dealer mechanic told him an "Italian Tune Up" (engine up to temp and keep revs over 2.5k for half an hour) needs doing every few weeks. As a Tree Surgeon he tended to be trundling around off road at slow speeds and low revs.

With luck it's just the actuator mechanism 

Dave

Hi Darren

Think about how much you have saved at Main Dealer hourly rates 😁 Plus the satisfaction of a job well done

Modern cars not designed to be DIY friendly 😅 the cynic in me thinks it is a ploy to drive us towards the dealer network. They will probably tell us they would never do that, yeah right 🤣

Well done

Dave

Morning Jamie

Welcome to the Forum

I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo

Dave

Morning JIm

If memory serves your car has twin turbo's a small one for low/mid range and the bigger one below for mid/top end boost. The vacuum drive shifts boost to the larger turbo, so when you felt for any wobble which turbo were you feeling? and which side remember the exhaust side really does take a battering. From your description the Vacuum drive is working but the flap it operates into the large turbo or the turbo it's self needs some investigating

Those are my thoughts

Dave

Morning Ronald

Welcome to the Forum

First it would be unlikely the a Starter would cause this fault code as the starter is underneath and the issue you have is at the top. A fault code indicates a problem it isn't  necessarily the cause, start by looking for leaks in any of the Vacuum lines and hoses on the Inlet side after 13 years the hoses on your car will quite probably be dry and cracked in places. Also check all wiring and plugs if cleaning use a good electrical contact cleaner.

The replacement you brought,  is it correct for your model ?

As an after thought check the engine mounts I am not sure whether your mounts have a vacuum link

Dave

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁

Dave

Hi Tino

Just re-checked and you are correct

Morning Tino

I don't think they use a different Can protocol as Dealers still need to communicate with BMW from time to time and we know how the German mind like s to be in control 🤣 The Can protocol should be D can. Wiring Diagram shows 2.0i  2007 on as Pins 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 all populated colours as follows 3, Red 4, Brown 5, Brown/black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 8, Blue/Yellow trace 9, Black 11, Blue/Red trace 12, Green 13, Red/Green trace 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace

My wiring diagrams for the 2.8i are exactly the same.

Pre 2007 (2004 up to 2007) It shows Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 16 populated Wire colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace

Just found another Diagram marked 2007 only shows pins 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 16, colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 16, Red/Yellow trace (not sure if this helps or hinders) 

Again as far as I am aware Left and Right hand cars are the same 

If it is JBE issues they are easy to swap but will need a Diagnostic scan capable of registering the replacement (I have INPA/ISTA) BMW make a big deal of it (can only be done by them) but as always it can be done I have changed a few Footwell modules and Junction boxes 

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Darren

Welcome to the Forum

 Best case check the Rocker cover Vent pipe easy to replace Worst case Cylinder Head Cover gasket needs replacing 

Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your Model Then in Engine look the Cylinder head cover. Use the part numbers to make sure you get the correct parts 

The job is a DIY proposition but there is a huge amount of trim and engine bay bracing to take off before you get near the nitty gritty 😅 Top tip take pictures so you make sure it all goes back where it's meant to. Tools needed a good socket set (3/8 and 1/4 drive) trim clip removal set and buckets of patience 😁 I believe there are a couple of good videos on You tube that should help

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Tino

You really do like a challenge buddie 😅 First I remember reading somewhere that the Japan cars didn't take Bluetooth OBD readers don't know for sure as I have never worked on one. My wiring diagram doesn't show anything specific for Japan ?

1st pic above my wiring diagram shows Pin 16 red/yellow trace Pin 6 white/yellow trace (D can H) Pin 14 white/blue trace (D can L) Pin 4 brown Pin 5 brown/black trace Pin 3 Red Pin 11 blue/red trace Pin 8 Blue/yellow trace Pin 12 Green Pin 13 Orange/green trace Pin 9 Black

I am thinking Pin 3 Live pin 16 shows a 5amp fuse 

The diagrams I have 2007/2009 and 2009 on both seem to be the same 

Hope this makes sense

Dave

Hi Mark

Welcome to the Forum

Check www.realoem.com  It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one

Good Luck

Dave

Frank

Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper???

If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? 

Dave

Morning Brian

Welcome to the Forum

First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) 

Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD

That's  the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used  purchase History History History 

Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣

Dave

Hi Jose

Welcome to the Forum

First you really need a diagnostic scan to help here us and you there are several BMW capable systems these day at reasonable cost BMW ISTA/INPA  available online Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft the list is getting longer

my own X5 E70 had several K-can bus issues which after a lot of head scratching lead me to a BMW cable jointing system common on our cars. The joints are not soldered they are twisted and compressed then covered in a clear plastic sleeve. As you have suffered water ingress I would start in the Boot/Trunk under the floor starting at the rear right below the rear fuse board you will find the main Loom it runs along the rear of the car towards the battery hidden in it are several of these joints (pictures attached) The dark stain inside the clear plastic is corrosion with my car several of these joints just fell apart. I ended up remaking and soldering all the joints in the pictures the sealing them with shrink wrap.

Once done I could clear all manner of faults that just wouldn't clear before. However as you are also having other issues they may possibly be either junction box and/or footwell module related. Also check the alternator output it may be the voltage regulator is fritzed

Hope this helps

Dave

Morning Gary

Sorry chum never heard of spring loaded suspension bushes before. A couple of points (1) there are no upper control arms on the front of your car? There are Front and Rear bushes on the lower wishbone at the top there is the strut mount. (2) Your rear suspension has upper front and rear control arms the front control arm allows suspension adjustment by the use of an eccentric bolt.

So if you have a car which pulls to one side something is clearly not right at only 17k, are all the tyres the same make and tread pattern? are they correctly inflated? are the brakes binding (is one hotter after a run)? The supplying garage has a legal requirement to make the car suitable for purpose, tell them you want it fixed or you will reject the car and ask for your money back. Write to them outlining when the issue was first raised with them and the amount of visits to try and cure the issue tell them it is not acceptable and if they cannot fix it you will have no alternative but to reject the car under the sale of goods act.

Good Luck

Dave

Morning Dave

Welcome to the Forum

As far as I am aware as long as the replacement is the same part number you should find it plug and play. Even if it requires registration (logging your Chassis number into the replacement unit) ISTA is the tool.

Way back 2004/2005 a friends 5 series Footwell Control module failed, the Dealer wanted so much money he was considering scrapping the car!! Dealer told horror stories about cars being Bricked if the unit was swapped and not programmed and you couldn't reprogram used units !! Well it was wrong actually swapping the units over took longer than reprogramming the replacement unit and he still has the car 😁 Since then I have done several for friends and family

If you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Once you have the correct part number Google for the best source/price. Then it is the process of removing the faulty unit and changing it. Before all this are you sure it is the IHKA unit not just a sensor or something else. Your friend with ISTA can help confirm if he hasn't already

Dave