Greydog

Morning Don Welcome to the Forum Below is a Graphic from BMW's parts catalogue for your car it shows the position of components and their part numbers. As I understand it the in a manual there will be switches by the clutch and brake pedal so that if either are operated the Cruise disconnects. It appears that all Cruise Control components are here operate from the throttle A case of testing each component bridging cables for continuity if a faulty item is found use the Part number for a replacement search and the best price Hope this helps Dave P.S. Z cars have their own section lower down No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Control unit f cruise control 1 65711387625 $651.79 03 Cruise control actuator 1 07/1996 65718369027 $320.12 04 Bracket f cruise control motor operator 1 41148401744 $5.53 06 Hex nut with plate M5 3 07/1996 63259128043 $0.72 07 Bowden cable f cruise control 1 65718380083 $25.07 08 Bearing accelator bowden cable SCHWARZ 1 13541747519 $0.58 For vehicles with Automatic transmission S205A=Yes 11 Bridging cable f clutch switch 1 61121385400 $25.88 For vehicles with Automatic transmission S205A=No 12 Clutch switch 2 POL. 1 61318360421 $73.75 13 Cruise control switch 1 61318360926 $97.81 14 Button for cruise control switch (ENGLISH) 1 61311390968 $6.22 14 Button for cruise control switch (FRANCAISE) 1 61311390969 $4.63 14 Button for cruise control switch (ITALIANO) 1 61311390970 $5.25 14 Button for cruise control switch (ESPANOL) 1 61311390971 $5.47 15 Interface, cruise control 1 65718380054 $78.98

Morning Steven That sounds fishy to me why would they order a Module without talking to you and showing the evidence? and when it doesn't clear the faults who pays for the part and the work?? Based on your pictures (where were they taken) as I say those don't show a Transfer case fault anywhere the code D36A is a communication fault with the DSC? What they do show a whole load of K-can faults (communication system) that is the place to start, get that fixed and the faults cleared. A couple of hours labour max. Then re=scan and you will see where the real issues are, then you can schedule any work, replacement parts etc. Google the Register of BMW Specialists and put in your post code it will show you the nearest ones talk to them before just handing over your car and hard earned find out what their costs are never just hand over your car and wallet Dave

Where are you based? Who ever you got the scan pictures from seems OK they clearly have Auto Logic software that can work with your car just depends on whether you feel comfortable with them I guess. Like i say first job is fix the K-can Bus show the post and pictures it will help the Garage or Mechanic get the job done without to much time wasting (£££) then you will be able to see what needs doing I am not a Garage just an old retired bloke who has fixed lots of cars over a lot of years But if I can help I will Dave

Morning Steven Really ? your screen shot doesn't show any VTG Fault or is it a new one ? Or is it a different scan ? You will need to either get them checked and repaired other wise the K-can bus faults will never be cleared and they will prevent some others being cleared. My course of action would be first repair the K-can Bus and clear down all the K-can Bus faults either using a Scan tool like your original screen shots or simply disconnect the Battery for 30mins (a Dealer Trick) Once that is done re-scan and see what faults show. Many folks have carried out costly replacement/repairs due to treating a symptom not the actual cause. Transfer Case damage/faults are normally tyre related or the VTG oil needs replacing Seems you are making progress though 😁 Dave

Morning Steven Plenty to go at there 🤣 I see that most of the fault codes are K-can based, if your not aware the Bus system is how all the Control modules talk to each other, so first port of call is sort the K-can bus fault. That should allow you to clear most of the faults then we can see what is left How handy are you ? Getting handier I guess 😅 So it may be simpler than you think and not as scary, in the boot right hand side you will need to take out the battery cover and storage box (5 screws). Take out the cover for the rear Fuse Board (unclips) and remove the small storage tray under it (2 push clips) Now you will have access to the main loom across the back of the car. BMW in their wisdom decided to make solder free cable joints by twisting and compressing joints then putting a clear rubber/plastic seal over them. Moisture gets in and the joints corrode and fail that is the cause of your problem, now the fix. Tools you will need are, Soldering Iron and solder (my preference) or a method of jointing the cables plus some shrink wrap/tape to seal the joints You need to dig into the main loom the runs below the fuse board where it begins to rise and across the back of the car The Pictures show what your looking for any black in the clear plastic is corrosion, when I found mine and moved the joints for the K-can bus they literally fell apart. Look at the picture (Cable splices) you can see the 2 smaller splices on the left (Orange/Green trace and Green) that's the Can Bus. I took off the clear plastic (it fell off) stripped the cables back twisted the cables together and soldered the joint. Work one joint at a time so nothing gets mixed up, once the Can Bus is fixed you should be able to clear most faults. When I found this lot on my E70 I remade all the joints one at a time just for my own peace of mind all of them are in the big loom below the fuse board and across the rear of the car towards the battery. Not a scary as it seems, when done and tested tidy up the loom with some tape and put everything back together Now rescan clear faults and see what is left Good Luck Dave Dave

Don't you love some Main Dealers, with my E53 X5 4.6is I changed most of the suspension bushes from rubber to Poly bushes (same as many competition cars) as they last longer. Airbag Recall and the Service Manager told me my cars was unsafe to use on the road ?? I asked why and he told me the suspension was fitted with "non compliant parts" that should be changed immediately. 8 years on and in March this year it passed its MOT with no advisories 🤣 By the way to see the Crank pulley they would need to remove the engine splash guards not sure if the need to do that for the recall ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Hi Steven To get the best you will need someone with a BMW capable diagnostic system Obviously BMW but they will be costly as most Dealers now have hourly rates north of £200. A BMW specialist would have the kit and are normally around half the cost of a main Dealer Google the Register of BMW Specialists. Or a good Independent with a top end Snapon, Foxwell or Autologic system there are several others these days Your BMW X5 has around 100 control modules a BMW system will see them all and narrow down the source of the fault a General OBD reader will just see a general code that then takes time to trace Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Bit confused your post says transmission fault yet you ask about key cutting?? Am I missing something as you say the car drives well If it is a new or spare key the simplest way is to contact your main dealer and part with some hard earned Dave

Morning Steven First I take it you are working from lights on the dash you really do need a Diagnostic session to be sure of the Fault cause. From your description the fault could be the Junction Box/FRM (footwell control module) it controls many functions. You will need to change it if you can get the same part number it will be straight forward but you will need to match the mileage so note it before starting or you will get a tamper dot on the dash Dave

Morning Stewart There is a drain plug in the bottom of the rad or simply pop off the bottom hose. The hoses have an "O" ring seal held by a spring clip, if you prize up the spring clip you can wiggle the hose off have a big tub/bowl to catch the coolant Dave

Morning Frank Who told you that ? The Damper pulley is made of steel as is the inner boss the two parts are held together by a vulcanised rubber core it is probably the rubber which is showing cracks, how did they see it? If you look down from the top of the engine and the pulley is wobbling when the engine is running I would consider changing it (if you do then it is worth changing Belts Tension and Guide pulleys as well) If the pulley is steady then I wouldn't worry to much Hope this helps Dave

Morning Frank Welcome to the Forum Rear Suspension not right ! Isn't much to help diagnose your problem so (1) is the system loosing pressure overnight ? (2) Is the compressor running (you should hear it under the back of the car) ? What dash warnings are you seeing ? Genuine air bags are around £80 each A replacement compressor £130 A Control unit (second user) £50 then there are 2 ride height sensors £25 a pair 2 fuses and a relay. So the system isn't complicated and can replaced completely for around £350 to £400, most common issues I have seen are leaks. If the system is loosing air the compressor ends up over running and either timing out (dash warning) or wearing out and while it will run it just can't produce enough pressure. My guess is, that if the previous owner changed the air bags the compressor is possibly on it's way out, easy to change a real plug and play job. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Richard Most of the control modules on the RR L322 are the same as BMW I bus cars so you should have no issues Good Luck Dave

Hi Richard As long as it is the same Part Number you should be OK, worst case scenario it will need registering to the chassis. While BMW Dealers try and make a big deal of it it is simple and straight forward. Normally if your Snapon tool will recognise the Module it's just entering the Vin sometimes just the last 7 digits is enough. If not try BMW 1.4.0 you can get it for between £10 and £20 depending where you buy it will give you dealer level access to all BMW's up to 2006/2007 Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum First is the replacement "new" or second hand worth testing it, next I would check continuity on the loom to the SRS module before changing the actual Module Don't know why but passenger seat occupancy was also an issue worth checking the sensor mat Hope this helps Dave