Greydog

Hi Rhys Worth asking Quarry if they have a Handbook for your model As your car is a 4.0d I would guess Fronts are 285x40x20 and Rear are 315x35x20 Tyres need to be same make and wear across axels and front and rear. BMW X series are sensitive to small differences in rolling tyre diameter I check by making a chalk mark at the bottom of the tyres front and rear with the car parked on a flat surface roll it forward 2 or 3 revolutions all 4 chalk marks should be almost in the same place. If they aren't there could be a problem ahead I am uncertain what you mean by Software upgrades the Infotainment and Satnav is about all I can think of the Engine DDE is set as is the Gearbox (that is ZF software anyway) when my E70 needed Satnav upgrades I changed the whole screen to an Android unit the complete screen was cheaper than the Satnav software from BMW plus it is freely upgradeable gives Android Auto and Carplay plus I no use Spotify for most of my music now and the unit still allows all the BMW OBC functions as well Plus Plus for me Dave

Morning Rhys Welcome to the Forum Front Diff damage is normally caused by mismatched tyres so before spending your Hard Earned money make sure Front and Rear tyres are (a) the correct sizes and (b) all the same make and wear. It only takes one tyre to be out of sync to cause Transmission Wind up and damage. Front Diff you have the Part Numbers the discontinued and it's replacement either will do check online but also check BMW specialist dismantlers such as Quarry Motors. As for fitting if you can DIY it's obviously cheaper if not a BMW Specialist or good Independent Garage is the route. Once sorted I would change the Transfer case fluid and Rear Diff oils as well if I recall your Rear Diff has 3 chambers and needs 2 different fluids As for the rest if you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then search the different sections it will give correct part numbers and small exploded drawings which help to see how where things fit. If someone has had a fiddle with the Door handle the small LED may have just fallen inside and only needs refitting (seen several) Hope this helps Good Luck Dave

Morning Gerry Get a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA it will give you full dealer access plus includes full Workshop information and Wiring Diagrams. Like you I have serviced my own cars since the 1960's when Computer diagnostics began to become common in the 1980's I brought my first OBD tool. Then when Volvo became more specific (had Volvo 760, 960, 850, and V70) I obtained a copy of Volvo diagnostics, then Mercedes Star and in 2002 BMW INPA for the first X5 Currently I have ISTA/INPA so still carrying out my own diagnostics and servicing, the advantage of ISTA is if there are software upgrades if you can obtain them they also can be carried out with ISTA BMW have now resorted to upgrades only being provided from their servers so they retain control Enjoy your G80 Dave

Morning Stu First engine running and Voltage check at the charge points the alternator should be providing 14.5v min (normally 14.6v) so battery will be slowly drained. But as you know low voltages can throw up all sorts of issues. Battery at rest 12.5v is OK healthy battery, alternators are tough so I would suspect the Voltage regulator Looking at your scanner the throttle body is sticking so needs a clean out Not unusual for the Drivers seat control unit to go AWOL on the E53 and that does affect other functions (steering wheel adjustment if electric) so that needs a look and maybe unrelated Good Luck lets hope it's the simple fix Dave As for the Porker tyre, I have a small compressor and a Tyre Plug repair kit (tempt fate now) I have used it 3 times all on friends and neighbours cars not mine and it works really well. The last time was on the shoot in the middle of nowhere a Disco with a flat front tyre and like most modern cars no spare we could see the puncture (a screw). Let the air out of the tyre pull out the screw clean the hole with the tool in the plug kit insert the plug with the tool provided and trim it off pump up the tyre, job done and we didn't even take the wheel off the car that was last year and he is still driving on it. Though the kit does advise get it fixed properly. All of the 3 I have fixed have driven on the repair until tyre change time. That would be the route I would take, I have seen compressors for around £20 and my plug repair kit was £10

Morning Nick Just looking at those initial screens I am not surprised your having problems 1st screen tells you that several control units are not communicating correctly as they have faults stored light brown colour and one greyed out and another is red not operating at all 2nd two screens show a list of faults and an explanation of what they are Your first job is the Control units they should all be in the Green. You need to investigate each one in turn to fix the faults. Once a Fault is repaired the fault will remain in the memory unless cleared by you. Clearing a fault doesn't fix it though it may allow normal running for a period until it returns Next stubborn faults remaining may need further investigation. ISTA is a very powerful program but it can't fix things you have to do that. ISTA will give you a test plan to rectify it also contains workshop information and wiring diagrams plus pictures of components and where they are located it will even list tools required. Dave

Hi Sam A Silicone spray or a little Vaseline, remember the footwell is a mucky place all sorts of mud grit and god knows what brought in on our boots 😆 So make sure everything is clean, really clean all dirt and grit hoovered out the electrical components are sealed to protect them so your target is allowing free running sliding action of the pedal. Dave

Answered in 7 series post

Morning Gerry Welcome to the Forum A BMW Main Dealer is never going to be helpful towards an owner who is basically asking them if he can take away their workshop business by DIY 🤣 If the car you want is New or a BMW Approved Vehicle it will be covered under Warranty so any DIY work could negate the Warranty If your target is being able to home service get a good BMW capable Diagnostic suite BMW ISTA/INPA is best but these days there are several others iCarsoft, Autologic that way you can reset electronically. Newer BMW hold the service history in the car which updates when a Dealer plugs in. Dave

Morning Nick If the car is in Limp Mode you still have a fault or have you accidentally put the car in Delivery Mode (a Factory setting to restrict performance) Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Wow what a post that's a load of work. My only thought is a complete back track and thorough check of all connectors, relays and fuses. I have seen an issue where the terminal 15 relay was damaged at a battery swap caused a lot of problems. I would go back to standard get the motor running before attempting a full re-flash you would at least have a usable car with an established base line Good Luck Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum I would say you have diagnosed your issue it just needs confirming I would start by checking www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings will help with seeing how the pedal is mounted. A really good clean and some lubrication may be all that's needed Good Luck Dave

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum Can't help much with local shows or meets close to you as I am at the other end of the country (Sunny Sussex) Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Gary Not sure that will work as I believe the mirror mounting angles are different LHD/RHD but I may be wrong Swapping the Mirror internals should be possible though Good Luck Dave

Morning Kevin Your into the realms of Personal choice and Budget here Personally I like the same tyres all round, so as you have Bridgestone on the Front I would go that route. Then there is the Budget if your able to stick with BMW approved tyres I would do so (Bridgestone are BMW OEM fitment) ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum What state is the battery low voltage can be behind all sorts of Odd behaviour, check voltage at the charge points under the bonnet at rest key out engine off it should be 12.5v with the engine running you should see 14.5v+ but to be sure I would get a Diagnostic scan carried out. Steering after all is important 🤣 Dave