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Good morning all, I’ve had my new to me F31 335d for 4 months now. Whilst I like the alloys I would like a little more comfort on the road so would like to know if anyone would be interested in swapping alloy wheels with me? They’re Rohana RFX11 wheels, 245/30/20 fronts 275/30/20 rears. I am after a set of M437 alloys. Mainly to give me a little more rubber on the road and a touch less road noise. Ill supply more detailed photographs but attached is one showing them when they’re not caked in road grime Thanks!

I'd love to see a diagram of that retaining clip, as I think that's going to end up being my solution too, by the sounds of things. It's rear left (curb side) that I'm sure is the problem, haven't looked at the other side. I have tried to rock it, and it doesn't want to budge. I've got the actuator unit loose, so there is more slack on the cables, but that doesn't seem to have made a difference, so I think I need to disconnect the cables from the actuator. I vaguely remember seeing a video of that when I was trying to find out what the problem was, so that's my next hunt

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Rhys To release the cables you need to remove the Disc/Drum assembly if it is Drivers side you may be able to release the cable at the actuator end but it will be a fiddle but doable. Have you tried rocking the car backwards and forwards I had to do that using Drive/Rev several times before it un jammed. I have also seen one where the cable outer was firmly jammed in the hub (the Dealer solution was New Hub New Actuator cost was enough to write off the car) My solution remove the retaining clip then drive out the cable outer using a long pin punch. It took loads of soaking in penetrating fluid and a big club hammer but it came out 🤣 Replaced the brake shoes replaced Actuator and cable then the Disc/Hub the friend I was doing it for brought an Actuator assembly from Ebay and a set of Pads/Shoes from a local Auto Factor. That was 3 maybe 4 years ago and no problems. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

Hi ,what do you think about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks

Hi guys ,just wanted some opinions about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks.

Good morning! Well I'm back, the Pre-LCI E90 is about 85% done, just a lot of small things need to be done to it but she's on the road now. Back to the OBD 😅 I am convinced there is an issue with the FRM. I recently got my hands on an Autel MaxiSys Ultra S2 and attempted to connect but got mixed feedback every time i tried to do so. First issue, it would not auto read the VIN, I had to put it in manually every time. Second issue, the scans were inconsistent. The first scan, it connected and said that every system had an issue and they were all permanent codes, but we could not access any of the systems. The second time, could not establish a connection. The third time, it connected and said that only 3 systems had issues but again, could not access any of the systems. I did some research, and apparently these Pre-Facelift E90's are notoriously prone to FRM failure. And now that i think about it, I have been noticing issues with my interior lights glitching in addition to the OBD issues. Apparently early FRM1 and FRM2 modules in Pre-LCI E90's would often brick themselves because of software corruption due to voltage fluctuations either from a battery too low on charge or a jumpstart and I'm thinking this is my issue. I do have two LCI E90's in my yard that I didn't have issues connecting to via OBD II, so I'm thinking that I can just take the FRM out of one of those and swap it into the Pre-LCI E90, would I be able to test it initially or does it need to be programmed to the vehicle?

I’ve already cleared all and there are no errors. My guess at this point is that the issue could be related to the transmission control unit reading incorrect torque data from the engine control unit. That would also explain why cruise control shifts normally, as it seems to use different map. Is that possible? Appreciate your time.

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

17k miles on the rears isn’t too shabby IMO. Especially considering both toe and camber were slightly out of spec.

My button on the x5 turns the car into the trevi fountain special cleaning routine!

So the old Lead Foot syndrome tyre effect 🤣 Dave

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Jakub Welcome to the Forum I would guess that there is either a problem with a flawed file in the re-flash, is it the original or a file you obtained? I suppose you have tried clearing it down and re-flashing again, run a diagnostic scan before re-flashing to make sure there are no issues that can interfere Good Luck Dave

Hi, I have F30 330i xdrive. A few days ago, I flashed the original software back from Stage 1. Everything seemed OK until I drove in Comfort mode. The car upshifts under 1000 RPM, and when I press the gas, it doesn’t downshift (it never did this before). Also, the Sport Display (where HP and Nm are shown) is showing some nonsense numbers. The torque should be the original 350 Nm, but the display is going over 450, same with the power. The transmission is completely fine; cruise control also shifts fine. The car had tuned 305HP and 480NM and now should has 252HP and 350NM Thanks for every advice

I have a 2014 320d msport can someone please tell me where the dde relay is located?

So, I opted for Michelin PS4’s for the rear. I had them on a Puma ST and they were great! Current Bridgestone turanza S001 on the front can wash out a little when cold/wet, hence my reasoning for not getting the same for the rear. I swapped rear tyres side to side last week and found a small patch of tyre missing due to delamination (probably due to playing on wet roundabouts 🤫😉) That’ll explain the slight vibration at speed! Also getting the wheel alignment done later to. Hoping it’ll be a noticeable difference!

That sounds like it could well have happened it...... I can't get the wheel to turn, I've been underneath and unbolted the handbrake unit to give it some slack, but still nothing, so I think I now need to disconnect the cables completely, and then surely I can encourage the wheels to turn enough to get to the adjuster screw/rotor.... That's my plan anyway, if it doesn't work then recovery on the credit card, but everywhere seems to be full booked for over a week as well

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum My bet is Battery dying check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet, anything below 12.5v with the engine off would indicate a discharged or dying battery. Good Luck Dave

Hi Rhys If the cable has a Ball on the end it is OEM if it has a Loop it is probably an aftermarket replacement not that that's a problem just indicates it has been changed before. I have seen one where the EPB unit had been replaced 3 times by the owner but he hadn't checked shoe wear and adjusted them ?? I needed a Claw hammer to get enough leverage to release the jammed cable. When I took the unit off the car I took it apart and was actually able to release it internally and save the unit (he has it as a spare now) Like most things on a car if it's looked after it will last a long long time Dave

Got warnings saying all lights and indicators not working but everything works, constant alarms, lights intermittently cut out, warnings on satnav screen, also driving stability warning up.

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Stu is on the right track but when you push the button on the end of the stalk and the green light is on that is the rain sensor enabled, wiper should then operate when the sensor is obscured by water on the screen, just either spray water or sprinkle some on the screen. A single click down intermittent two clicks up for full operation and high speed a push towards the dash is intermittent rear wash wipe push towards the dash and click should give full rear wiper operation Dave

Hi Craig and welcome My first thought is the rain sensor. It is on the windscreen behind the rear view mirror housing. Disconnect that and see what happens, if your wipers start working intermittently, there’s your issue!