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welcome to the club Joe!

Haha… I can guess you have never owned my X5 then! Welcome to the forum!

Oh nice! Bet that has been many years of pure raw joy!

Hi Joe… I’m from Yorkshire so a bit closer! …. I’m on bmw 10 or 11 I think!

Hi Dave, Thank you for the warm welcome! Yes you definitely can’t help haha. I am on my 2nd/3rd at the moment. Miles of joy! cheers! Joe

Hi all, Newbie here. I have a 2013 116d with 78k on the clock. Randomly the other day the RPM just started hanging / coming back down very slowly, and when stationary, idle creeps from circa 900rpm up to around 1200/1300 and stays there. It's had a scan and the only fault code coming up is for 'Fuel Filter Heater Open Circuit'. It's booked in next week for a full service including new filter with heater (£££ 😂) but just wondering if anyone has encountered this before and whether I'm being optimistic thinking this might sort the issue, or whether I need to be prepared to look elsewhere for a cause? Thanks guys. Sam.

Hi - new to forum. I have a 220i M series 2024 suffering from the headlight condensation problem. Started in October on one headlight and now the other has followed suit. Under warranty, the dealer pressure tested the light and said it was faulty and would be replaced. Unfortunately what has been happening in the past is that they have been replacing the headlights with ones that are also faulty hence ongoing problem. Apparently headlights manufactured after September/October 2025 should now be fitted. I’m still waiting as have been told there are no replacements in the country! BMW - major car manufacturer - should have sorted this mess out years ago!

Hi. Long story. I have a 2013 F30 335i with the PWG N55 engine. The engine blew and I got it replaced with a 2015 EWG N55 engine. I got it back from the mechanic and it was running, but running rich and no boost, you could tell the car was unhappy. My assumption for no boost and running in poo conditions was that it was running with the old PWG DME and a PWG tune, which may not have had the hardware and logic to run electric wastegate. Little did I know that my mechanic had supposedly not plugged in the electronic wastegate plug as he misheard me for saying to unplug the diverter valve to I get compressor surge since I want the turbo flutter sound. (yes, I know it's bad for the turbo, I just want it for purely sound). So I go home and attempt to flash the car on a PWG tune just to see what happens. The bootmod3 OTS tune cannot successfully be flashed on the car, so I assumed I needed a new DME to run the hardware for the car to be alright. Now luckily, I have a friend with a blown M235i. Both my friends car and my engine are 2015 EWG N55's, only difference is his is a convertible. That's literally it. So I grabbed his DME, got it cloned from my old DME so the ISN align, and I attempt to start the car. Only cranks, doesn't start. I somewhat expected this since I thought I would have had to reflash a tune on it anyway, but still thought that it could have started since both DME's (my old PWG DME and my friends new EWG DME) were running on stage 2 tunes. Different platforms however, his on MHD and mine on bootmod3. Now here's where it gets complicated. The person I went to get my ECU cloned said that they have no choice but to clone everything, not specifically the ISN and VIN alone, so I was thinking the new DME was currently running on an incomplete map which makes sense as to why its not actually turning over and simply cranking. However, after contacting bootmod3 support and getting them to switch my maps from PWG to EWG, after attempting to flash the tune, it fails specifically at 87%. Every single time. No exception. So after doing miniscule troubleshooting here and there, turns out my battery was exceptionally low on charge. So I went and replaced it with another battery, same spec, AGM, 85ah, only thing about the new one was I bought this new one the moment my engine seized, about 4-5 months ago, so it had just been sitting in my friends garage ever since. Now this is where it gets bad and my impatience really starts to show. I can't exactly remember if either ECU cranked after the battery swapover, to the best of my knowledge, I think the last crank attempt that car had was on the new battery on the EWG DME. Anyway, I was swapping over both DME's repeatedly trying to flash the EWG tune to atleast see if either one of the tune's would go through, also I was hooking up jumper cables to my other car, putting a jump pack on the car aswell, I could hear the relays chattering aggressively, it was really a mess. It ended up at a point, which is still where I am now after 2 days, where no matter what DME is in the car, no matter the voltage of the battery, it simply does not want to start. Since then, my theory is that the reason the tune did not successfully flash, and made sense as to why it would fail at 87% specifically on both DME's, is due to the wastegate plug being unplugged, which to my knowledge is a critical sensor that the DME requires to have communication with when flashing a full flash. At this point, it could be anything. I'm guessing something electrical, but I have no idea what it could possibly be. The new battery (the one that was sitting for 4-5 months) I bought a battery charger for, was resting at about 12.5v, currently sitting at about 12.2v, is enough for atleast a crank attempt but nothing. As soon as I attempt to get the car to start, the dash just turns off. Currently, the car in ignition cycles through (according to my memory) an ABS code, a tyre sensor code, a fuel supply code, and some other code. I cannot remember those codes cycling through when the car was just given back to me. Only code that I can remember is a drivetrain malfunction code, that was there since it was given back to me. My mechanic assumed it was just because of the boost problems which the tune should fix. Not sure how he thought it was okay to give the car back to me with the wastegate unplugged, but thats besides the point. I genuinely have no idea why the car isn't even cranking. A bad tune should allow cranking, low voltage should allow cranking, error codes should allow cranking, I don't understand. It's important to mention that after looking around for the wastegate plug, it seems as if it's plugged in. Not sure if I'm looking at the right thing though, I'm 90% sure it's plugged in though. bootmod3 displays no codes or faults. I would really appreciate the help. I've dropped so much unnecessary money on this car and I atleast want it to drive. Thanks.

Hello, can you lower the rear seats? There should be a manual release in the boot if you can access through there.

Trying to figure out my transmission code when I run ista+ it gives me the code EGS_0x32 if I change the transmission control module with this fix that

Hi everyone I have a 2012 640D F12 convertible and had to replace the battery removed old one without problem and shut the boot lid I imagine you know the rest of the story, I have connected a battery using jump leads under the bonnet makes no difference at all also I was told some have a key slot behind the boot emblem mine has not, can someone please advise there must be a way into the boot without power or causing damage many thanks a

Does anyone have or know of where to acquire a Hard Top roof and fitting kit for my Z3 Would appreciate if anyone knows of one or has one and especially the fitting kit for sale - just message me through here initially, Thanks

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum Can't help much with local shows or meets close to you as I am at the other end of the country (Sunny Sussex) Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Gary Not sure that will work as I believe the mirror mounting angles are different LHD/RHD but I may be wrong Swapping the Mirror internals should be possible though Good Luck Dave

Morning Kevin Your into the realms of Personal choice and Budget here Personally I like the same tyres all round, so as you have Bridgestone on the Front I would go that route. Then there is the Budget if your able to stick with BMW approved tyres I would do so (Bridgestone are BMW OEM fitment) ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum What state is the battery low voltage can be behind all sorts of Odd behaviour, check voltage at the charge points under the bonnet at rest key out engine off it should be 12.5v with the engine running you should see 14.5v+ but to be sure I would get a Diagnostic scan carried out. Steering after all is important 🤣 Dave

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum ISTA should give you a Test Plan ? just changing the EGS may not be the fix (sadly most Garages change parts to quickly at customer cost) I would first use a good Electrical contact cleaner on the EGS and Loom connector and test continuity on the loom. If the loom and its connections are good check the Internet for EGS tests If after checking everything out it still points to the EGS then there are some things to consider. Early "E" series cars the EGS had no internal ISN (Internal Security Number) Later "E" series cars the EGS with ISN are Grouped with the DME/DDE and CAS so if changing the EGS you will need a Matching DME/DDE and CAS plus polish your skills with ISTA P Hope this helps more than hinders Dave PS. You posted in the 7 series section not X3

Morning Paul Have you tried contacting Hella Direct they may have a customer services that can help. A friend in Belgium had had a 7 series at around that time he had a hidden Isolation switch that after start had to be pushed or it would cut out. His was under the dash near the centre console. If my old memory is working it cut the fuel pump Good Luck Dave

Hi Porlus, Thank you for contacting me with your question. I have to say for a start that my efforts in creating a responding issue with BMW fell completely on my face - virtually no-one wanted to get involved. Therefore, all I can offer is advice. If you are buying from a dealer than almost certainly get them to check whether the problem has been addressed. I believe all it requires is a simple but accurately drilled hole that will allow collective water in the sills to drain away regularly. This simple remedy should diminish the window winder mechanisms from getting drowned in residual water. Push that this is done as part of your gaurentee/warranty needs. If you are purchasing from a private seller you have far less control on the issue but maybe as part of a bargaining stance it could still be in your best interest to get done. Do not consider not buying the car, but rather just make sure it has been done so that it saves you £2000 !!! All the best !

Trying to figure out my transmission code when I run ista+ it gives me the code EGS_0x32 if I change the transmission control module with this fix that

All right, my BMW heads I’m running itsa D an I got the code of egs G_0x32 which I looked up and it says transmission control module. I was wondering if I replaced the control module will it fix the problem?

Hi all, I hope you all had a nice Xmas break!? My 430d GC will require new rear tyres in the near future. They’re approx 3mm, hoping February doesn’t bring snow!! I’ve achieved 18k miles from my Pirelli P Zeros, which I’m fairly happy with, especially as I have moments of “spirited driving” So, any advice on replacement tyres? I have Bridgestones on the front, not sure if they’re for sporty or touring. Was airing to similar on the rear but can be swayed by other’s recommendations. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks.

Hi, new to the forum and its my 1st post. I live in Dundee and was wondering if there are any meets or drives ever going on. cheers J

My car cut out and a message said active steering failure .put the fob back in and it started and drove ok .it it a 2008 3ltr diesel x5

Hi everyone and Happy New Year. After did some further investigation I have managed to find some further information regarding the alarm. Turns out that the Hella Alarm was sold as an aftermarket product in a lot of motor accessory shops as well as being offered and fitted by some BMW dealerships. By chance I found someone selling one on Ebay Australia and I contacted them twice!! to ask if they would be willing to sell me a copy of the wiring diagram which I was happy to pay them for but sadly they never responded. I have attached a couple of photos so you can see what the item looked like. In the meantime I have been tracing the wires to see where they go and this is what I have got so far. Hn 1 x Brown wire to horn Hn 1 x Brown wire to horn 3 x pairs of Brown with Yellow Stripe could be lights and doors, bonnet and boot locks T+ and T - . 2 x Brown wires to MK (Master Key)? 1 x Brown with White Stripe S? 1 x Solid Red wire (30 or 31) goes into a loom maybe onto starter or battery but nothing direct to battery lead that I can see. Also nothing going to coil. Also checked an on/off switch located in the glovebox which I thought maybe the alarm arming operation turned out to be just for the light and a spare feed. I need to do more tracing and check around the ignition switch just in case there is something there The main reason for me doing this is because i read somewhere that these alarms can allow the car to start and then cut out the engine to prevent them from being stolen? Whether this is true or not I have no idea I just want my car to run again without cutting out!!