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Hi Tino Changing the FRM should be easy the only issue is that's where BMW store Mileage information (there and the instrument cluster) so you may trigger a tamper dot against the mileage. Easy to correct. Seems you have eliminated the FRM so onto the JBE if you can find one with the same Part number it should be straight forward with no programming Keep going Matey Dave

Thank you Greydog. All the bearings you mention have been checked. I have now driven two other cars which have the same noise so have concluded it’s a characteristic of the model Thus I am thinking of sound proofing- especially the wheel arches. Any comment? Thanks David

Hi Dave, Not a BMW garage. I have found a local gearbox specialist garage. Thank you so much for the information, I will certainly be showing them this. I will let you know how I get on ☺️

Morning Christine Is the garage a BMW Specialist or the Garage that sold the car ? I don't know what tests they carried out leaving the battery disconnected is a BMW Dealer trick to clear codes Talked to a friend who works for BMW in the US apparently they saw a number of these faults which requires a Gearbox Software reset or upgrade Dealers can do it using ISTA-P or a ZF Specialist is the next step. Here is what he sent me 240211.pdf Dave

Update - the FRM is not the issue, swapped in a perfectly good FRM from an LCI 320i model that I could connect a scan tool to and still no connection to any modules in the vehicle. I'm going to try swapping the JBE next as I've heard those also cause OBD communication issues.

Hi all recently bought a x2 m with 20inch alloys on run flats. Road noise seems excessive. Was wondering if I change to normal tyres would be better or should I look to swapping alloys for 18 inch would be better ? Thanks

Hi Dave, No luck at the garage 😔 They checked all the connections, all ok. They disconnected the battery, which was left overnight, ran a diagnostic test again this morning and the same error code came up. They still say I need to take it to a gearbox specialist. Any advice would be gratefully appreciated ☺️

Thanks so much for your help and advice.I really appreciate it. I will have a look at theses fuses.

Hi Rhys Near side cable can be a PITA that side has a 3 or 4 inch long sorry 75 to 100mm left hand thread on it seems to take forever to release from the actuator If you haven't already take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the rear axel or brakes sections you should find it and the small exploded drawing will help Good Luck Dave

Good morning all, I’ve had my new to me F31 335d for 4 months now. Whilst I like the alloys I would like a little more comfort on the road so would like to know if anyone would be interested in swapping alloy wheels with me? They’re Rohana RFX11 wheels, 245/30/20 fronts 275/30/20 rears. I am after a set of M437 alloys. Mainly to give me a little more rubber on the road and a touch less road noise. Ill supply more detailed photographs but attached is one showing them when they’re not caked in road grime Thanks!

I'd love to see a diagram of that retaining clip, as I think that's going to end up being my solution too, by the sounds of things. It's rear left (curb side) that I'm sure is the problem, haven't looked at the other side. I have tried to rock it, and it doesn't want to budge. I've got the actuator unit loose, so there is more slack on the cables, but that doesn't seem to have made a difference, so I think I need to disconnect the cables from the actuator. I vaguely remember seeing a video of that when I was trying to find out what the problem was, so that's my next hunt

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Rhys To release the cables you need to remove the Disc/Drum assembly if it is Drivers side you may be able to release the cable at the actuator end but it will be a fiddle but doable. Have you tried rocking the car backwards and forwards I had to do that using Drive/Rev several times before it un jammed. I have also seen one where the cable outer was firmly jammed in the hub (the Dealer solution was New Hub New Actuator cost was enough to write off the car) My solution remove the retaining clip then drive out the cable outer using a long pin punch. It took loads of soaking in penetrating fluid and a big club hammer but it came out 🤣 Replaced the brake shoes replaced Actuator and cable then the Disc/Hub the friend I was doing it for brought an Actuator assembly from Ebay and a set of Pads/Shoes from a local Auto Factor. That was 3 maybe 4 years ago and no problems. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

Hi ,what do you think about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks

Hi guys ,just wanted some opinions about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks.

Good morning! Well I'm back, the Pre-LCI E90 is about 85% done, just a lot of small things need to be done to it but she's on the road now. Back to the OBD 😅 I am convinced there is an issue with the FRM. I recently got my hands on an Autel MaxiSys Ultra S2 and attempted to connect but got mixed feedback every time i tried to do so. First issue, it would not auto read the VIN, I had to put it in manually every time. Second issue, the scans were inconsistent. The first scan, it connected and said that every system had an issue and they were all permanent codes, but we could not access any of the systems. The second time, could not establish a connection. The third time, it connected and said that only 3 systems had issues but again, could not access any of the systems. I did some research, and apparently these Pre-Facelift E90's are notoriously prone to FRM failure. And now that i think about it, I have been noticing issues with my interior lights glitching in addition to the OBD issues. Apparently early FRM1 and FRM2 modules in Pre-LCI E90's would often brick themselves because of software corruption due to voltage fluctuations either from a battery too low on charge or a jumpstart and I'm thinking this is my issue. I do have two LCI E90's in my yard that I didn't have issues connecting to via OBD II, so I'm thinking that I can just take the FRM out of one of those and swap it into the Pre-LCI E90, would I be able to test it initially or does it need to be programmed to the vehicle?

I’ve already cleared all and there are no errors. My guess at this point is that the issue could be related to the transmission control unit reading incorrect torque data from the engine control unit. That would also explain why cruise control shifts normally, as it seems to use different map. Is that possible? Appreciate your time.

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

17k miles on the rears isn’t too shabby IMO. Especially considering both toe and camber were slightly out of spec.

My button on the x5 turns the car into the trevi fountain special cleaning routine!

So the old Lead Foot syndrome tyre effect 🤣 Dave

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Jakub Welcome to the Forum I would guess that there is either a problem with a flawed file in the re-flash, is it the original or a file you obtained? I suppose you have tried clearing it down and re-flashing again, run a diagnostic scan before re-flashing to make sure there are no issues that can interfere Good Luck Dave