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Hi Lewis Welcome to the Forum From what I understand there is a CD Changer input and an Aux Input on the back of the head unit if the Aux cable is plugged into the wrong one it doesn't register. If the Aux port was fitted by someone else (not BMW) that is quite possibly the problem. You will need to remove the radio to check, at the back of the radio there is the main power/speaker connector on the left hand side the Aux connector should slot into the main connector. Beneath the main connector is separate connector socket for the CD Changer. So pop out the air vent unit above the radio (2 flat screwdrivers and a trim tool) undo the 2 screws that hold the radio in place and slide it out there should be just enough cable slack to see what is plugged in to where. If the main power/speaker connector has a small plug beneath it disconnect them both and at the bottom of the main power connector you should see a slot to take the Aux connector push it home until it clicks replace the power connector and antenna if you unplugged it and slide the radio back. Turn on the power and now you should have a working Aux port. Put the screws in and slide the air vents home 15 minutes work 😅 Hope it works for you Dave

Hi all, New owners here. We just bought ourselves a lovely Z4 Coupe (2007) and had a great fun driving it home. No issues with it apart from the Aux input is not being detected on the stereo. I’ve read it could be a connector issue or a coding issue. How do I go about working out which one it is and how easy is it to get fixed? Is this something I can fix myself without too much faff or is this something I need to pay someone to fix? Any help much appreciated!

Definitely not anti freeze, has the viscosity of a light oil. I'll do as you suggest and sod the curiosity!😁

I would say with certainty that the wiring is broken in the flexible trunking that runs between the A post (bottom of the windscreen pillar - follow it down and you will see a wiring loom going into the door) - pull back the trunking and see if any wires are snapped as this is very common on lots of cars where the door opens and closes frequently then the wiring snaps over time

Seems to be so many more nowadays and they are using some really quite elaborate schemes

To be fair, I have no idea what it contains (possibly if it is blue it could be antifreeze) - saying that, Duckhams engine oil used to be green so anything is possible as it was back in the 70's I would also imagine it to be quite toxic. Disposal of the fluid at the local tip would be the best bet and then wash out the container and would be useful for a number of things Let us know (out of pure curiosity) as to what you find out and end up doing with it

Other problems with the Windows. The Windows don't come up with the main Button.

I found this clearly genuine BMW container in the boot of an old 2002. It contains a blue coloured oil (ATF?). I'm just curious about it's origin and contents and if it's any use to anyone. It's approx 200mm x 150mm x 80mm.

Morning Matt Sensitive souls our Beemers 🤣 How many phones are registered in the cars Bluetooth memory ? Try clearing the cars history then re entering the Samsung that used to work 😁 Good Luck with the repaint 🤣🤣 Dave

Hi, I've recently changed from iPhone to Samsung. With the iPhone, no problem connecting Bluetooth using Siri to make calls, send/read WhatsApp (not CarPlay) etc. using voice commands. With the Samsung, although the number is correct in phone Contacts, only a limited number of Contacts transfer to the car and it strips the leading zero off all the numbers. So, currently useless. Also, if I play music from Spotify during a journey, the next time I get back in the car, Spotify starts running in the background. When I check my phone (when it is safe to do so obvs) Spotify is not running on my phone. I don't recall this happening when I was using my Phone. Anyone come across either of these? At this rate, I'll need to repaint the car red and rename her Christine :-)

Sorry if this doesn’t help, but my convertible pug did this… It was a yaw sensor which ran through the abs sensor. Abs module was replaced and the abs light fixed, but asc sporadically appeared. Not sure if bmw have yaw sensors?

Hi everyone, Important member safety notice: please be extremely cautious when buying parts from people you do not know. We have recently seen a small number of scammers joining the community and attempting to target members with used car parts. These adverts or private messages may look tempting, often featuring rare, interesting, or hard-to-find parts, but the seller may then ask you to continue the conversation by email, either with them directly or with a “friend”. Please do not engage with anyone selling parts unless they are an established and trusted member of the community. These scammers are very convincing! Things to avoid: Do not buy from brand-new members with little or no contribution to the community. Do not continue conversations by private email if the seller is trying to move you away from the club/forum. Be cautious of sellers claiming the parts belong to a friend. Avoid sending money by PayPal Friends & Family, bank transfer, or any method with no buyer protection. Be suspicious of parts that seem rare, cheap, or “too good to miss”. Do not feel pressured into paying quickly to secure an item. Ask a the community for seek advice from friends if you are unsure before sending any money. Usually, if you have a gut feeling something is wrong, then do not send money. To help protect members, new members will no longer be allowed to post parts or items for sale straight away. Anyone with few posts who wishes to sell parts or items must contact a team member first. The team may ask for verification before allowing the advert. Cars may still be listed for sale, but please take extra care. Always view the car in person where possible. If a deposit is required, only use PayPal Goods & Services — never Friends & Family. Our aim is simple: to protect members and stop scammers from taking advantage of the community. Thank you for helping keep the club safe. The Club Team p.s if you come across someone trying to scam via forum post or PM, please get in touchor click report on their post so we can ban them out, block them and save others in the club. It's not too often but mainly try via PM.

That's a shame Alan when was the Brake fluid last changed from your description that it is intermittent that may clear a sticky valve ? Looking at ISTA that unit was used on 5 and 7 series of the same vintage so maybe try the specialist breakers like Quarry Motors Dave

Thanks for your response Dave. Unfortunately I have spoken to ECU testing and they cannot refurbish my unit. Apparently they have a history of failures when trying to refurbish my particular unit Regards Alan

Morning Roger My wife's brother lives in Iver so we come up every now and then if that helps I will let you know when our next trip up is Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum If my old brain is functioning your car has a combined ABS/ASC unit and from memory again I didn't think there were alternatives (but I am old) Just had a quick look at ISTA and my old brain is working😅 There was only one part number for your model 34511090911 if you have the correct part number the only thought I have is that as the Unit is combined ABS/ASC one of the valves is sticky so you get the intermittent fault. Do you still have the original ? try swapping the electrical (brain) part or send it off to someone like ECU Testing who specialise in repairing these units Good luck Hope this helps Dave

Just fitted alternative ABS module. ABS warning light is now out but ASC light sometimes stays on and is intermittent. Can anyone tell me how to fit. Since intermittent assuming its an electrical fault?

Hello to everyone who has replied to my original posting. I have now managed to visit the specialist who previously looked that the car by just arriving there (ironically it ran perfectly all the way there and back - over two hours driving - then yesterday went back to lumpy!) The specialist is also baffled by the erratic nature of the problem - he has suggested replacing the ignition wiring loom between the coils and the ECU - I’ve just brought one so will try this. I just wanted to say thank you so much to all who have taken the time to contribute their thoughts - it is greatly appreciated. Dave, I’m going to try the wiring option next - that looks pretty easy for an amateur DIY mechanic! - failing that I would love to accept your very kind option of borrowing your older software to see if that highlights any clues. Again, for now, thank you everyone. Best wishes, Roger

If it is stuck shut, then push out the left hand grille and get a hooked tool to pull sharply on the cable or push the release mechanism away. That’s how I managed to open the e53 x5.

Hi AP Welcome to the Forum Err Chaps if I am reading this right AP has closed the bonnet but it has only latched on one side ? and now he can't get it to release. I would first push down on the latched side while getting an assistant to pull the bonnet release. I have seen this once on a 5 series this method worked. Turned out the owner had shut the bonnet while some tools where still under there and one latch was out of alignment The only other thought is taking out the Kidney grills to see if you can access that way Good Luck Dave Nice choice of motor by the way

Hello, I agree… open the bonnet and get someone to pull the release lever. Both release mechanisms should move in unison. They are able to be moved manually if they are free. Give it a good oiling and get it moving. If it is free to move by hand, but doesn’t move with the cable, check the cable hasn’t stretched or become disconnected at the other mechanism.

Well I suppose it is better being stuck open than closed at the moment - I would try using penetrating oil on the affected bonnet catch and see if you can get any movement when gently pulling the cable to get some movement on the mechanism (had the same on my Z3 and it does free up over time)

Fingers crossed and do let us know if it has successful done the job. Thanks for sharing this info, very useful to other members

All, So as title suggests, my car has warned me of “low oil” after 2k miles since service. It had also needed a couple of top ups in between services. I’ve added a litre and it’s back to Max. Hoping for the best, I’ve just replaced the crankcase breather on the cam cover, purchased from MKY performance (https://mkyperformance.co.uk/products/bmw-n57-pcv-diaphragm-valve-cover-repair-kit-cap-11127800309?_pos=1&_psq=BMW+N57+PCV+Diaphragm+Valve+Cover+Repair+Kit+Cap+11127800309+330d+430d+530d+325d+640d+×+1&_psid=d7acb3413&_ss=e&_v=1.0) Real OEM doesn’t show the valve as being separate from the cover. No real need for explanation, it’s straightforward enough to do as can be seen from pics. There’s even a 10% discount code on the business card. I removed the compressor inlet duct for access & used a pair of pick tools to unpick the old cover. Old diaphragm was quite a bit more supple and the spring seemed weaker too. Time will tell if it’s cured the oil consumption. 🤞🏻

Recently bought a 2013 BMW X5 4.4 jap import, Managed to open the bonnet, upon closing, only one side (right side) clicked back in, the left side however has remained elevated and not flush to the bodywork. I have tried to released the bonnet through the bonnet latch under the steering wheel however this is not releasing the bonnet to be opened. Normally you can feel a bounce to push the bonnet back in, however in my case it has no give and remains in the same position. have any of you experienced this? or do you know of any quick fixes? Thanks AP