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Hi Dave, car is booked into a local garage for Tuesday 10th. The guy who owns it is an ex BMW mechanic. 🤞I can finally get sorted. I will update you ☺️

Hi Grey dog Dave was super helpfull he sure knows his stuff thanks again Dave

Hi Dave, Thank you so much for the reply. I have checked the following. Almost got new brake pads (all almost 12mm thickness), brake fluid next service is due on after 18000 miles, disc (22, 23 mm front and 18,19 mm for rear), tyres have got 6mm thread, 12 v battery has 90% capacity, not a category vehicle, no rusting is visible, not a category vehicle and have done major service like engine oil, micro-filter, air cleaner element, fuel filter on this January. I know I have to find a small amount for clutch replacement within in 80 to 100k. I have checked the engine bay. There no other leaks appear to me than this sweating from breather hose ( there was a crack on the breather hose). My question is that breather hose damage can be considered as a normal cause due to age. Or it can be a alarming situation for other leaks to start appearing.

Morning David Worth a search for any acoustic specialists who may help, for what it is worth my E70 was in for an EGR recall last year and I was given an Electric X1 as a courtesy car, a nice car very quiet apart from tyre/road noise which was a surprise to me having driven a Tesla 3 which had very little I did comment to the Dealer Good Luck with finding a solution Dave

Hi Tino Changing the FRM should be easy the only issue is that's where BMW store Mileage information (there and the instrument cluster) so you may trigger a tamper dot against the mileage. Easy to correct. Seems you have eliminated the FRM so onto the JBE if you can find one with the same Part number it should be straight forward with no programming Keep going Matey Dave

Hi all recently bought a x2 m with 20inch alloys on run flats. Road noise seems excessive. Was wondering if I change to normal tyres would be better or should I look to swapping alloys for 18 inch would be better ? Thanks

Thanks so much for your help and advice.I really appreciate it. I will have a look at theses fuses.

Hi Rhys Near side cable can be a PITA that side has a 3 or 4 inch long sorry 75 to 100mm left hand thread on it seems to take forever to release from the actuator If you haven't already take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the rear axel or brakes sections you should find it and the small exploded drawing will help Good Luck Dave

Good morning all, I’ve had my new to me F31 335d for 4 months now. Whilst I like the alloys I would like a little more comfort on the road so would like to know if anyone would be interested in swapping alloy wheels with me? They’re Rohana RFX11 wheels, 245/30/20 fronts 275/30/20 rears. I am after a set of M437 alloys. Mainly to give me a little more rubber on the road and a touch less road noise. Ill supply more detailed photographs but attached is one showing them when they’re not caked in road grime Thanks!

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

Hi ,what do you think about an F10 528i se 3.0 petrol ,6 speed manual.Thanks

I’ve already cleared all and there are no errors. My guess at this point is that the issue could be related to the transmission control unit reading incorrect torque data from the engine control unit. That would also explain why cruise control shifts normally, as it seems to use different map. Is that possible? Appreciate your time.

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum My bet is Battery dying check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet, anything below 12.5v with the engine off would indicate a discharged or dying battery. Good Luck Dave

Hi Colin and Welcome What are you needing to learn about ? Happy to help if we can Dave

Hi Ty Welcome to the Forum Try Googling the Register of BMW Specialists they are normally ex BMW guys so will have knowledge and the right kit. There should be one local to you Good Luck Dave

Morning Chas dee Welcome to the Forum Either BMW or any with an anti fungal additive (I use Prestone) Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Yes, mostly local trips of 10-15 miles but the car has actually done a 100 mile motorway trip recently.

welcome to the club Melvin!!

New tensioner has been fitted, the noise has now stopped! Thanks for coming back to me.

Hi Alex Welcome to the Forum 804415 ....Radio remote control.... Permanent (replaced the battery in the remote, deleted code but it came back) Have you tried another key or do you just have the 1 ? Try using a good contact cleaner on the Battery contacts 80442A .....Light operating unit .... Intermittent Sounds like the Rotary control switch unplug it and contact cleaner again plug and switch 48069E ..... Wheel calibration....permanent The next 6 codes are all related either the TPMS control is having a hissy fit or one or more of the wheel sensors have an issue 4806F4....rear right .... Intermittent 48077C...front left.... permanent 48077D....front right.... permanent 48077E.....rear left .... permanent 48077F....rear right... permanent 13820A...radiator blind blocked..... permanent Have you checked for any physicall blockage ? Check Fuses and Relay 13820B.....radiator blind blocked.... permanent Hope this helps Dave

hi Endrit Welcome to the Forum Some leaks can be a pain to find. I start by first cleaning thoroughly then run the engine and start at the top Cam Cover check for signs of a leak working down to the drip point Are you sure of the engine our friends car same year as yours is B47 Dave