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Hi Nichola Welcome to the Forum and Happy New Year As far as I recall there are two parts a narrow tray and the lifting section. Just a thought does your car have rear seat adjusters if they have been moved that could be your problem Hope that is the fix Dave

Hi Dave, happy new year to you also, thank you for information, I’m sure it will be sorted

Even if the steering wheel isn't trembling, the wheels could still need to be balanced. To be safe, I would start with a wheel balance and also inspect the suspension and tires.

When it cuts out like that, especially quickly, it's a terrible feeling. Well done for persevering and ultimately figuring out the cause. Hopefully, the new injectors will resolve the issue so you may resume enjoying the X5 stress-free.

Morning Andy Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum A bit more information if you can, what are the symptoms exactly ? You have had a lot of work done and parts changed has the EMF control Module been checked/changed ? Has the EMF actuator been checked/changed ? I assume all suspension parts and wheel bearings have bee checked ? Tyres are they all the same make and wear rate ? Sorry about more questions than answers Happy New Year Dave

BMW M Sport Coupe - Satin Black 78,000 miles Cream leather interior in great condition, no rips or tears. Drives beautifully - smooth handling, quick acceleration, and excellent on fuel. Recently had a full MOT and service (June 2025) and runs perfectly with no mechanical issues. M Sport Package - Heated Full Leather Seats - Cruise Control - Steering Controls - Automatic with Paddle shifters - Low mileage for its age Swansea, UK

I’m a new (6 months) BMW owner, it’s only taken me 50+ years! I was surprised to find that the battery is hidden away under the bonnet so identifying it is not easy. I believe it will be an AGM due to the start/stop ability of the car. The reason I ask is that my mileage is low and I am concerned that it will not be charging sufficiently. I am thinking of getting a trickle charger - Ctek - specifically for an AGM battery as I understand that a “normal” charger may deliver too much of a charge initially and in any case the specific Ctek one will limit the full charge to 14.5v I believe. I was hoping to charge via the 12v socket but I think that is not constantly live and so will have to connect to the battery. Any advice or comments would be appreciated greatly thank you.

Excellent explanation. A lot of the anxiety about DPF and EGR concerns is greatly reduced by real-world instances such as yours. Frequent maintenance and safe driving practices have a significant impact. I appreciate you sharing your story.

Morning Peter Most tyre places will write off the tyre if Goo has been used even if the puncture is in a repairable place and your quite right they hate the cleaning it needs That was one reason for me moving to the plug system simple to use and a permanent repair As said used it more on friends neighbours and family's only once on my current E70 X5 Good luck with the car ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Ali Welcome and Seasons Greetings It could be a sticky or failing Hydraulic cam follower or a sticky Vanos solenoid. Clearly difficult to diagnose without being around the car If you use Cruise Control and feel a lurch when turning it off/disengaging it I would suspect the Vanos solenoids Dave

Well spoken, Dave. I've observed the same thing with prolonged service intervals: if minor seepages are ignored for a longer period of time, they grow into larger issues. Without the main dealer price tag, a competent independent BMW specialist can typically determine if the problem is actually a turbo or merely a seal.

I agree. I've also used a square configuration in the winter and found it to be very effective, particularly in the snow. In addition to making life easier, going a little narrower with the appropriate offsets typically results in cost savings.

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Not sure where you are but if your in the UK you could talk to ECU Testing or Cartronix to see if they could help. I take it you have searched for a second user Speedo or Binnacle ? That gives 2 possibilities strip it to get the part you want or swap the lot, you may need a Diagnostic like BMW 1.4.0 to register a changed unit and correct mileages Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings I would guess that if your seeing 10v at the signal wire then either (a) the sensor is toast (b) there is a short in the wiring loom to test at the DME you will either need to trace the signal wire back or get your hands on a Pin Out for the DME. I have seen corroded pins at the DME but that normally shows as no signal I assume you have checked the Crank sensor ? What Diagnostic system are you using Dave

Morning Firat My thoughts are that the trans codes are communication errors triggered by low voltage and or Can Bus issues. How is the transmission running ? Is it sticking in gears ? Are changes jerky ? Any other trans issues leaks etc when was it serviced ? My actions would be to start with a Fully Charged Battery, clear down the codes check the battery voltage was still at full charge 12.5v minimum Then put a clamp ammeter on the main starter feed and start the car measure the amps drawn stop the engine and check battery voltage. As I have BMW ISTA/INPA (I also have iCarsoft BMW V2) I would then run a diagnostic and record all faults I suspect the Trans Faults are not all that are there. Remember a Fault Code very often is a symptom not the cause Good Luck Dave

Hi 90 k is not a lot of miles when was it last serviced ? Are there any leaks anywhere? So the vapour does it smell ? Sweet smell (could be anti freeze/coolant) has it needed topping up? Oil smell is obvious Next check and test and change if required the Oil Temp sensor I believe it's on the Filter body on your model. See if that stabilises the Gauge Dave

Morning Nathan Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Sounds like a stuck lifter Dave

Hello mate thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of information. I think the engine is a n13 I had the car serviced in may and when I pick the car up and looked at the invoice they hadn’t change the fuel filter when I questioned the garage they said the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump so I said don’t it have a in line filter and they said no Thank you

Thanks for the reply. I've replaced the battery several times with new ones ( I should have mentioned that in the post) and unfortunately I lost the other fob. I've been procrastinating replacing it due to the cost. So I guess the next step is the scan tool. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks.

Depending on engine, it could be a failing glow plug? Or maf leak? A misfire will cause a random jump and affect fuel consumption. Do you notice any fuel smell when the juddering happens?

Morning Mike Fuse box should be near side of the engine bay against the bulkhead so easy to get at with a couple of main loom penetrations into the Cabin. Never liked hacking into cables with splices etc 😁 Dave

Hi James You could try companies such as ECU Testing or Cartronix another alternative may be get the Part number and search Dismantlers like Quarry Motors Before replacing it though some Talc puffed along and around the boot seals then a wash may give clues to where it is getting in, but more important check the boot floor seal/drain is not blocked. If you have a sun roof make sure the drains are clear Good Luck Dave

Thx for your feed back , appreciate thx fingers crossed

Hi Rob Have you looked at the 3 series I am sure they can't be that different, if there is nothing there then it's the after market suppliers !! Dave

Morning Jordan Welcome to the Forum The code your seeing is in my experience normally tied to 3 suspects (1) Battery, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good health. Engine off test the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet anything below 12.5v would indicate a problem. Engine running test again you should see 14.5+v (alternator good) (2) Steering angle sensor, these don't often fail but not impossible, driving forwards turning lock to lock normally resets and clears it. (3) Transfer case fault, Again normally robust but the poor old Gearbox and Transfer case are often ignored (even by Dealers) and not serviced. So check for any signs of leaks changing the Transfer case fluid is straight forward just make sure it is correct for your car (tip always make sure you can undo the Fill plug before draining, seen two where folks drained and then couldn't refill). Also when stopping listen for clicking noises under the drivers seat in some cases the nylon activation gear can wear/strip and may need replacing (plenty of "how too's" on the net So I would start with simple stuff, Battery first then clear the codes and check again you may need the help of someone with a Diagnostic program to clear faults i the memory. If the Battery is the culprit then just changing it should clear the faults and lock to lock reset the steering angle sensor. Fingers crossed its a cheap easy fix Dave