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Morning Jerry BMW use a complicated spring rating system the Dealer will need Chassis Number etc etc and then a Body Part as a deposit 😅 Bilstien are OEM suppliers among others so that is where I would start for Springs and Shocks Dave

Morning Jo Welcome to the Forum I have read about how to do this but have never had to do it myself, so here goes 1) If your starter still rotates and the ignition can be on So, the engine may be dead, but when you push the start button, the BMW still makes some noises and turns some lights. This is the good news because this is the easiest way to put your car in neutral. Here's what you should do: Apply the handbrake to hold your car in place and safely operate. Apply the footbrake and don't release the pedal until you finish the procedure. Push the start button - the starter will start rotating and you may immediately continue. Push the unlock button on your select lever and hold it until you finish with the settings. Put the lever from the P position to the N position and hold it there for at least 4 seconds. Then put it back in the P position for a while. Quickly put the lever into the N position and then right away to the P position again. Release the unlock button on your lever. Release the footbrake. Now, the display should show N and the transmission should go to neutral, the wheels will be unlocked. But this won't last forever. After 15 minutes, the transmission will be blocked again. This is made for the safety of the vehicle to avoid rolling back or forward. 2) If the engine and the battery are dead If the ignition doesn't even try to turn on, you can't use this official method because nothing will work. In this case, you will need to know where the transmission lock screw is located. It's under the vehicle near the transmission. Find it and see what kind of instrument you need for unscrewing it. Unfortunately, there is no proper instruction for all BMW models. But usually, you will need to unscrew this bolt and then the wheels will be released up until you screw it back. 3) Does the orange tool work? Yes, newer BMWs will have a special orange tool and you will have to insert it into the emergency gear release hole and turn. This is the easiest way and it will work with both alive and dead engines. But most BMWs don't have this system, so remember the two options that will work with nearly all BMW cars equipped with automatic transmission Just hope one of these works Dave

Well that was fun first ISTA wouldn't acknowledge the EHC (Electronic Height Controller) took it out cleaned the pins back in now I could see it but it wouldn't allow Calibration ?? So go at it from a different angle inflate airbags individually. All of a sudden back to normal, ride height recalibrated 🤣 Hope thats the end of the story Dave

Cheers Stu Thanks for the info. I'm originally from close to that neck of the woods. Driving over to Hull with it is likely to be a challenge as its currently SORN and with the engine running rough I'm reluctant to drive that kind of distance. Reckon I'll have to have it collected and delivered somewhere for diagnosis and repair, which may actually open up places around the Hull area I guess. I'll check them out, with one or two other independents that have been shared from a post i made on the 2 series forum. Thanks again for the reply. Cheers - Paul

Hi Dave Thanks for the reply, very much appreciate it. I've done just that and found a few garages relatively local so will start to work through them. Hopefully it can get resolved now, its been stood a while. Thanks - Paul

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I have no Hybrid experience other than riding in one 😁 Like Manufacturer quoted MPG for Petrol and Diesel models most figures are laboratory maximums (probably with all accessories shut down) and real world driving shows them up. After 3 or 4 years I would expect battery efficiency to have fallen off a little and from what I read most testers have found around 40miles to be a real world optimum. Dave

Hello all been few years since on here with my x5 4.8is, back now with 2015 f15 30d had for 5years been a great vehicle ,h&r springs on front loweringkit on back front feeling like juddering at low speeds dosent feel tight do I refresh front suspension also I've not changed diff or gearbox oil what's best advice ,I do like to attempt jobs myself cheers j

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum I believe there are several Videos on the internet that deal with turning off Comfort Access/Keyless entry Hope this helps Dave

Hello. This is an english speaking forum, could you please translate your request in to English please. thanks

Morning Welcome to the Forum Are you wanting to upgrade all 4 callipers or just the fronts ? Is the reason for upgrade performance related or for show ? Upgrading Callipers, first check what brake disc sizes are standard on your car as you may need to consider Disc's and Callipers together. If replacing Discs and Callipers make sure you have clearance in the wheel to clear your new brakes so you may also need Wheels/Tyres you can check www.realoem.com for what original equipment is on your car and what was available for say M Sport or M series cars Dave

Morning Germaine Welcome to the Forum Your post raises more questions than advice I am afraid 1. How many miles has the car covered 2. What type of journeys short local less than 5 miles or Motorway 3. When was the car last serviced ? Then we may have some clues to help you Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum The only thought I have is you have an Analogue Dash (fixed Clocks) and you have seen cars with Digital Dash panels ? To go the BMW OEM route I think would be expensive to say the least £££ I have read of a company in the UK who have developed Digital Dash retrofit kits called Demonized UK. From what I have read they are very good though I have never seen one or used them may be worth a Google search Nice Motor by the way ENJOY Dave

Morning Michael Only one thing to say really ENJOY Dave

Hi guys. My son has a 2002 E39 530i Sport which needs some remedial work to remove rust off the sills. Can anyone recommend a good body shop in south London, preferably a BMW specialist?

Hi Brandon. first things first. Change the wheel for the spare.. if it stops, it’s the wheel. Next, check the wheel alignment. Then check for uneven wear across the tyre. You might have bent a suspension component. Check to see if a spring has broken?

Thanks a million! I will look into this

Hi Eduan Welcome to the Forum First place to check is Sub Frame mounting Bushes, on a 19 year old car they will be tired. In Order to check rear suspension bushes the Air suspension has to be deflated not a difficult task but essential. Again I would expect a 19 year old car to have a lot of wear and is probably in need of a refresh. Tip if refreshing the suspension get new camber bolts for adjustment mark the old ones position with a bit of Tippex so it all goes back as original. If the suspension is good then drive shafts, diff, Propshaft are next for checking Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Quick look at realoem shows both 155A and 185A alternators were used for your car Part Number 12317521178 is the 185A was OEM The 155A shows as a Remanufactured replacement alternative. Realoem also states that the Aluminium Screws are use once so will need replacing part number 12310392568 set of 4 shows Good Luck Dave

Does anyone have or know of where to acquire a Hard Top roof and fitting kit for my Z3 Would appreciate if anyone knows of one or has one and especially the fitting kit for sale - just message me through here initially, Thanks

Does anyone have or know of where to acquire a Hard Top roof and fitting kit for my Z3 Would appreciate if anyone knows of one or has one and especially the fitting kit for sale - just message me through here initially, Thanks

Morning Nigel Damn Bambi 😅 we just don't eat enough Venison in the UK 😅 Totally agree with you if it's on the car it should work and it bugs me if it doesn't. I brought my copy of BMW INPA/ISTA a long long time ago (can't remember where now) but a friend of our son brought a copy last year from www.djwwautodiagnostics.co.uk he paid £90 and it works really well (save him blocking my driveway while he uses mine 😅) The best software is BMW INPA/ISTA which will give you full Dealer level access to your car for diagnostics and repair information, it also contains Wiring diagrams and Workshop information Apparently the company are UK based and give full back up, though I personally have not used them but he is a happy bunny Hope this helps Dave

Thank you so much, Stu. I will buy that right now. 🙂

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum That's a lot of water 😢 I fixed a 5 series for a friend of our son his was no where near that bad though. With the 5 series the rear door card had been removed at sometime and the vapour barrier was missing that added to the drains in the bottom of the door being blocked. The bottom of the door was just full of water. When it rained or he went through a car wash it overflowed and filled the footwell. I cleared the door drains a lot of water was held in there I dried it out with a heat gun (checked the roof drains as well they were OK) Fitted a new vapour barrier took out the carpet and sound deadening thick pad which was sopping, gave them a spin in the washing machine then dried in the sun. While they dried I jet washed the car to check for leaks (none found) so I replaced the Door Card sound deadening and carpet he has had no issue over the last 3 years. With luck that will be your problem 😁 If it isn't then you have a serious leak under the car or in a seam Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Hi Enthusiasts! I'm the third owner of a 2003 BMW 318i SE Touring Car, 110,000 miles, that I bought from used approved Peter Vardy in Edinburgh in 2010. I've absolutely loved it! But it's coming to the end of its life, I fear. In particular the offside rear bracket holding the brake hose has completely corroded, so the garage (BM Motorworks in Stockport) has had to 'improvise' to attach it to get it through the MOT. There's some paint 'bubbling' over the wheel arches and general oil leaks - the usual for a car of that age. But it just got through it's MOT for another year, although with a load of advisories. I think it has a full service record - I got the inspections done at BM-Tec in Salford, and then last one at BM Motorworks last year. It's still a great drive, the interior is in great condition and all the electrics (apart from CDP) work great. So it pains me to let it go. But I don't have much mechanical knowledge and I think it's getting to the stage where, if it keeps going, it needs someone who can give it some TLC. I want a car I don't need to worry about. So I'm writing to ask if there's a forum where enthusiasts might be interested in buying it, someone who knows what they are getting into with one of these great cars? Any advice welcome! Thanks, Max

Many thanks Dave it’s a minefield isn’t it! the calliper and ABS issue was sorted by a family friend who used to be a main dealer Service Manager, now gone independent. Paul - please do let us know how your daughter’s situation gets resolved?