Greydog

Morning Aaron Welcome to the Forum Never seen that before in the E53 the video signal comes from the Nav Unit with a default screen (Blue) with limited menu options that comes from the TV unit (even if it is still analogue) So a few thoughts has work been carried out in the Boot? The left-hand cubby houses the CD unit the Nav unit Bluetooth etc. Your radio (BM54) and TV module live under the spare wheel I have seen a Nav unit bricked by someone putting a Film DVD into it thinking they could watch a film as the Unit has DVD on the front. But in that case, it simply reverted to the Blue screen. All communication with the Headunit comes from the BM54 Radio which has a fuse under the main quadloc connector if that is OK then unplug the Nav unit see if that makes a difference. Also if any extras have been connected unplug them The last step would be a diagnostic scan using BMW 1.4.0 or INPA/ISTA as they will read the Infotainment system Dave

Morning Alber6 Welcome to the Forum Try looking at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model. Then search the sections for what you need, that way you are sure you will have the correct part number. Dave

Morning Don Welcome to the Forum BMW will advise a change before the Legal limit on wear is reached (often around 3mm) for a number of reasons not least safety. Tyre brands wear at differing rates so around 20k could be correct, if you haven't checked them yourself, or can't, get an independent check done to be sure. Different tyre brands use different compounds so wear at differing rates I have gone through a set of tyres in a little over 15k and had another set last almost 30k weather, driving style and maintenance, how often are pressures checked is there any uneven wear? Dave

Morning Duncan Have you removed the fuses and checked them or visually inspected them? Is there power at the compressor? What information is the car giving you through the On Board Diagnostics? Check the level sensors are OK not sticking the knee joint should be pointing towards the wheel I have seen where the suspension has been fully or overextended, they fold the wrong way, so nothing works If Fuses Relay sensors and controller are OK then the compressor may have failed. A Diagnostic session will tell you for sure Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum A bit confused about which Model is your car an M5 550dx Touring (lucky boy if it is) or one of the other models with M-tech accessories like say a 530d M-tech. As far as Battery is concerned the main Battery should be either 92ah or 105ah AGM (under the floor in the boot) and will need registering to your chassis to ensure correct charging. Just to confuse the innocent your car may have an additional battery under the Bonnet for the Aux heating and suspension which could be either AGM or Lithium the AGM should be 60ah (I think) not sure about the Lithium, again I believe these batteries need registering to the chassis. Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Duncan Great choice of X5 here's to 😁 SMILES of happy motoring Dave

Morning Aziz Welcome to the Forum As Stu says a Diagnostic Session is needed to point you in the right direction. Find a local BMW specialist or a Good Independent Garage who has the correct BMW capable scanning equipment. Good Luck Dave

Morning As a precaution et the starter motor checked BMW used Magneti starter motors mid 90's to early 2000;s and there were a number of issues, also check the engine earth straps. If the car was jumped from the battery direct it could have caused damage to the LCM (light control module) and or your climate control module. As said earlier if you have an old laptop running Windows 7 or 8 buy a copy of BMW 1.4.0 and load it onto the laptop. It will give Dealer level diagnostics and access for coding/changing stuff it really isn't complicated, and if you need a guy for some of the grubby bits you will at least know more than him about your car 😅 My daughter services her own Horse Lorry only uses the mechanic for specific jobs, it drives him insane that a skinny little girl actually knows more than him 😂 So Go Girl we are here if you need help Dave

Morning Julian Welcome to the Forum The X5 F15 in the year range your considering came with 3.0d, 3.5d, 4.0d and M50d all models based on the 3.0 straight six diesel with variations in turbo's and ECU tuning (plus a lot of other stuff of course) X5's can be addictive (I have 2) my X5 E53 4.6is is in store now to help preserve it, my X5 E70 3.0d is driven everyday around town/short journeys it returns mid/high 20's on a run early 40's on a visit to our daughter in the midlands towing the horse trailer it returned 37mpg So the F15 in any flavour will be a nice place to be, as with any used car History History History is vital. For support try Andy Walker at Walker's Autotech in Wisborough Green very knowledgeable and reasonably priced he may even be able to help source something for you. Also The German Car Company just outside Horsham at Monks Gate on the A281 Good Luck with the Hunt Dave

Ooop's 🤞 they aren't to harsh Dave

Morning John I would look at www.realoem.com get part numbers for M parts exterior, bumpers splitters etc and interior parts seats and trim. Then search the aftermarket suppliers for any deals you can get. Once all the parts are collected, they will need prep and paint to make them pristine before fitting. Whether doing it that way will be any less expensive than going to BMW I have no idea, as you say you have brought a flagship Coupe so it's not going to have any cheap fixes. ENJOY Dave

Morning Ali Welcome to the Forum Always a difficult question as depending on where you buy you can find I would guess prices from around £200 to over £1000 My advice would be to but the best quality you can for your budget. A friend of our son fitted AP adjustable coil overs to his 1 series last year cost was around £600 quality was very good and fitting straight forward, interesting replacing springs and shocks with OEM parts was around the same. So it depends on what you're trying to achieve a Track Day car a Lowered Look or just replacing OEM, good luck with the change Dave

Morning Stu Well, that's a great buy 😄 your right not an M3, but a smiley wife is absolutely priceless 🤣 Right now, an increase in economy is a bonus too well spotted mate Dave

Morning P Welcome to the Forum First make sure it doesn't smell of anti-freeze, have you lost any coolant lately? Check the membrane behind the door cards if it has been disturbed or damaged a surprising amount of water can get inside. I take the door card off and use a Talc Puffer around the bottom edges of the membrane then run the jet wash outside against the window seal you will see any run marks in the talc very quickly. I use a Heat gun on a low setting to soften the adhesive for repositioning if the membrane is torn either replace it (either buy one ££ or if you have a piece of clear plastic sheet or as one of my sons used on his pickup truck bubble wrap) or repair if you can (Gaffer tape 😁) Also make sure the drains in the Door bottoms are clear Good Luck finding the pesky leak Dave

Morning Steve Have you checked on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then you will be sure that the drawing is specific to your model, I think that is where the answer will be Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum You can take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then look in the trim section to find the part number. Once you have the part number you have choices for supply, the obvious one is BMW the next is a BMW Dismantler (there are several specialist dismantlers in the UK) or the Auction sites. Having the correct part number will make sure wherever you purchase from it will fit. By the way they clip in I believe. Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As with any Used car purchase History History History don't just check the service history also check it's MOT History and recall history. MOT history is useful as you can see if advisories have been attended to, recurring advisories to me indicate poor care and maintenance. Tyres are they all in good condition, no odd wear patterns which would indicate worn suspension. While looking at the tyres check the wheels look for Kerbing scrapes or cracks and general condition. Body work should be in good condition with no big dents or scratches and no peeling lacquer Inside seats and carpets not ripped or torn and in good condition. Do all the bells and whistles work try everything at least twice while you're in there. Check under the car for signs of leaks on the floor, check oil and coolant levels, the engine should be cold if it has already been run question why? does it have a cold start issue perhaps? Run the engine and let it warm up again check for leaks, rattles, knocks or other noises. If your happy then the test drive the car should be quiet on the road with smooth gear changes (manual or Auto) Finally make sure AC/Heater and all controls work for the final time. If your happy and no issues OK However unless your competent with the spanners if there are any issues look elsewhere there are no simple fixes so if the seller is trying " you can get those on Ebay for a tenner easy fix " or the " never use it so it didn't bother me " Just ask yourself why if it's easy didn't they do it? If you're buying from a Garage you will have some protection under the Sale of Goods act, if a Private sale take extra care as you will not have that protection. Hope all goes well with the viewing Dave

Hi Sam Welcome to the Forum Try looking at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check out the relevant sections if the black trims are available, you should have no problem finding them. If they aren't there, then I would try a Body Shop or the aftermarket suppliers. Wheels same thing get the style and part number then I would check the Specialist dismantlers Good Luck Dave

Hi Andy Welcome to the Forum The B58 engine was built in 3 different states of tune depending on Market and Model. As your Pal is removing it from an M140i and you plan to use it on an M140i I can't see any major issue. The manufacturers will always write in a few clauses to shield themselves from blame should something go wrong. Remember often tuning boxes are brought by people as a cheap way of trying to restore performance on a worn engine so they need to protect themselves. In your case as it is being transferred to the same model plus, I assume your engine is in good nick. Just remember most folks who fit a tuning box or ECU upgrade use a lot more fuel while they "Errr" get used to it 🤣 I rebuilt the engine in my X5 E53 4.6is with some Dinan parts from the USA now has 415hp at the wheels 😁 Surprises a lot of people in Hot Hatches and Sports cars. My Brother Inlaw has run ECU tuned 5 series Touring in 530d 535d and now 540d xdrive the 540 has over 400hp and so much mid-range torque it can embarrass some serious super cars Enjoy Dave

Morning Rob Welcome to the Forum First I would work backwards over everything you have done just in case you disturbed something. Then what scanner are you using? I have seen this on my own E70 and on one of my Brother inlaws 5 series, BMW said new actuator was required for both cars. With my E70 I cleaned and lubricated all the mechanical parts from the Hub to the actuator, one cable was very sticky so I changed it. No issue since. My brother inlaw called the Recovery as he was in an Hotel in Belgium they couldn't reset it and advised him to talk to BMW his Dealer said "sounds like a failed actuator" he came here and using ISTA we reset it and he didn't have a reoccurrence over the next 3 years. Good Luck Dave

Hi Dave Welcome to the Forum There is a post in the 5series section from a member who had the same problem He found this website which seemed to offer a solution here it is https://xenons4u.co.uk/185920-00-led-module.html?utm He has now posted to say it was very successful, could be worth a look. I think the issue is you need to be capable yourself of changing the parts or have a mechanic who will support you. As clearly BMW think changing a complete headlamp is the answer to a blown lamp ?? Good Luck Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Long time since I have played with one of these if my old brain is functioning correctly that is a vacuum line. It should have a non-return valve in it then connect to the electric emissions valve and from there to the exhaust emissions valve. But then again, I could be confused at my age 🤣 You can check if you take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box, it will bring up your model then look in the engine section I believe. You will find small, exploded drawings which should help identify parts and where they fit. Good luck Dave

Morning ED Welcome to the Forum I remember reading some time ago that that certain CCC units were not exchangeable. Have you looked at www.realoem.com if you haven't used the site before put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the Audio section. Double click the CCC part number it will bring up a list of units that can be exchanged, then check the part number on the unit you have. If all is OK then it may be that the unit needs registering to your chassis (theft prevention measures) Hope this is some help Dave

Morning Vandame Welcome to the Forum If number 4 plug cap is broken, are you asking if you can change just the cap? Should be possible if you can get the plug cap after all back in the day, we changed plug leads as a matter of course. We have been educated over the years to change complete units rather than repair them. Good Luck Dave

OK if the battery is draining there is an issue TIP, if jump starting or charging only ever use the charging points under the bonnet if you connect at the battery, you can cause damage to other components. You can test for yourself with a multi-meter at the charge points under the bonnet. Engine Off you should measure 12.5 to 12.8v (healthy battery) with the Engine running you should see 14.5v + With the engine off and the Muti-meter set on amps check at the charging points and the alternator for any current flow. Alternators do die but very rarely, more often than not the fault is with the Voltage regulator on the back of the alternator. Remember that Garage work on an hourly rate and it is easier/quicker often to change parts at the Customers expense than actually fix them. If you are a logical person there is very little you won't be able to fix/improve on your car with the help of a Diagnostic program and some basic tools. Not only will you learn about your car and how it works but you will be in position to decide what jobs you may need the help of a Garage with. There is a tremendous amount of information available Dave