Greydog

Morning Gaz Simple things first when you removed the Quadlock connector I assume (I know never assume) that there were no small plugs present and you fitted the Aux connector in the right position? One of my sons did this

First make sure you are using the pairing button under the arm rest the steering wheel voice button will not work. It may be that 4 phones have been registered which will block the system from pairing any others. There is a sequence for clearing the paired memory but you will have to google that. I use BMW 1.4.0 software on an old laptop so it's simple to access the bluetooth unit and pair or clear down entries. My wifes Samsung we could get it to pair but it would never transfer the phonebook

Sounds like something loose or a rubbed wire earthing, just a thought if someone has been inside the door to work on the door locking mechanism they may have disturbed the air bag connector or not put back something correctly. Take care inside the door and make sure the membrane is put back correctly as its a known source of wet carpets.

Morning Shane Happy New Year I got my inpa software some time back from obd2tool.co.uk I also have 1.4.0 brought through Ebay both running on an old laptop. You could also try Carly for BMW (I tried and couldn't get it working) though it is more expensive.than Inpa or 1.4.0 (they both cost about a tenner from memory. I did get 1.4.0 running in a Virtual Machine on my Win 10 Laptop but as the other one lives in the garage it seldom gets used. Good luck with the set up loads of information on line. Dave

Welcome Arron Yup the 330's were known for having a couple of horsepower more than the Clio's ENJOY

Here is wishing you all smooth roads and safe and trouble free motoring in 2017 Happy New Year

Here is wishing you all smooth roads and safe and trouble free motoring in 2017 Happy New Year

Firstly check realoem.com to see if it was an option on your model. If it was an option all the wiring will probably be in place check the mirrors if your lucky they may have the motors already (a lot of the X5's did) then you need the switch it is part of the drivers door window control on the E53, finally you may need to put a fuse in place (check your hand book) Fingers crossed it will all be plug and play Happy Christmas

Hi Derf I find it incredible that a Premium manufacturer actually states that the Transmission is sealed for life ??? BMW seem to think the "life" of a vehicle ends with their warranty liability. If you check ZF's web site you will see they recommend changes at 60 to 80000 kilometers, I service mine to ZF guide lines. Sounds like seal failure and debris has blocked the pump so a box out job to rebuild I am afraid.

Running out of ideas and options now Ollie boy. Apart from a new set of pads or at least a helpful Parts guy that will let you compare? If the pads are correct for your model and all fitted OK then I am at a loss, I can only think the pads are incorrect for your Model?

Just a thought whoever did the brakes last did they refit the retaining clip/springs ?

Have you had the car from new? Do you know who serviced the brakes last? Definitely sounds like the wrong pads or maybe something loose check the sliding part of the caliper and the mounting bolts on the back of the hub. If whoever worked on the brakes was a bit slap dash and didn't torque them up correctly then things can become loose.

Hi Pads should be a sliding fit in the caliper not loose Check the correct part number against www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin in and look at Brakes it may be that if you haven't had that car since new that a previous owner or garage has fitted the wrong pads

Hi Taz I would check the power supply at the Headlamp motor connectors it would be unusual for both to fail, if no power try checking fuses 16 & 41 they are for the Light control module both should be 5 amp I believe. Also if the sensor looks intact (the operating arm) try giving it a dose of the magic WD40 it may be jammed

Hi Taz You are correct there are several BMW models which use the same sensor 3's 5's 7's all use it for headlamp leveling those with air suspension use them for suspension position/height. If you go to www.realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your Vin and you can check (1) where they are and (2) how many and the part numbers. They are quite simple and once coated in crud and salt it seems to be the joint on actuating arm which is the common failure point (well on an X5) I assume you have checked the fuses in case there is no power going to the motors that adjust the headlamps? Simple things first if they are OK then its under the car to check the sensors I have seen prices quoted from BMW dealers between £60 and £80 personally due to where the sensor is mounted it does get a hard life so second hand to me is a non starter as you never know what trouble you may be buying or how long it will last. Good Luck with the fix Dave

Hi Derf Doesn't sound like good news I am afraid, I would say definitely a blown seal that has dumped the fluid so looks like a box out job to get at what you need to fix. At least your in the US where an Auto isn't viewed as a box of magic bits and if its opened they escape never to be seen again and priced accordingly. Take a look at www.realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your vin and then look at the Auto Transmission file it will at least give you some idea of what your looking for with the exploded drawings. It's a really useful source for part numbers etc for any model. I am not sure but I think the Z denotes ZF transmission so any competent Transmission specialist should be able to help Good Luck finding a fix Dave

First does the TV option show on the main screen? A 2005 should have the digital tuner fitted already I believe, so it may be it just needs re-tuning. They do seem to need re-tuning a bit if the signal isn't strong. If all you get on selecting TV is snow then I would guess you have an analogue tuner and need to add a freeview box or upgrade to a BMW Digital tuner (over priced). My tuner works but I have to say that is more due to my obsession with "if it's fitted it must work" than actually using it. From what I have read Digital signal on the move is rubbish and if your stationary remember the engine will need to be running or you will flatten the battery in no time. There are several companies that will fix a broken tuner but it isnt cheap the TV tuner is buried in the boot under the spare wheel and suspension compressor with the radio tuner and the battery. Fingers crossed it's just a re-tune needed find a known strong signal area and try.

Well done Jerry, persistence pays in the end, if anything posted helped that's what the Forum is about and thanks for the update So it's on coils not air suspension that explains a lot. You may get advisories popping up on the instrument cluster which could be why there were missing fuses, you can code these out using BMW 1.4.0 software or Carly it is just a case of going into the program IKE if I recall and un-ticking a couple of boxes (if you use 1.4.0 you will need an old laptop running Win 7 or 8 or set up a Virtual Machine on newer) Check the centre bearing on the prop shaft also the rear suspension bushes odd tyre wear or excessive camber is a give away sub frame to body bushes as well they only seem to last about 80k. I brought a kit off the bay of e 2 years ago as rear adjustment was hard for the garage to get in tolerance, the difference is massive Now drive it and enjoy it

Morning Jerry You say you put a fuse in position 46 was it missing ? I believe it should be 7.5 amp rating. If the fuse is sound I would try clearing all stored codes you could also try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins. Have you tried driving forwards going lock to lock. If the fuse was there or blown there is a cause you must have a dead short somewhere. If the fuse was missing you have to wonder why, had a previous owner removed it to cover a fault? The Xdrive system controller gets inputs from (1) The wheel ABS sensors to measure slip and either apply the brake or more torque the signals come from the ABS system controller. (2) Throttle position sensor. (3) Steering Angle sensor (4) Wheels speed sensors. There are probably many other links through the bus system from DSC Hill Descent ASC. From a brief conversation with my friendly BMW specialist his view would be first make sure all connectors are clean and fully on (especially where you were working) check the fuses, if all is OK then make sure the Xdrive actuator on the Transfer box is working (these are known to give issues). The ABS controller is also a possibility as a culprit but he says there are several companies that rebuild them. Last thought he asked if you had had the transfer box fluid changed? apparently it requires its own fluid not the same as my simple cousin. I hope this helps Jerry

Morning Jerry My 4.6 is the simple cousin (no X drive) your 2 posts are related so I will try to help with both here if I can as any diagnostic by remote control is really a best guess. Your 4.8 has X drive the difference between our cars, mine has a simple chain driven transfer box giving a fixed front rear split yours has the X drive transfer case which has an electric motor controlled clutch to vary the front rear power split dependent on wheel slip. You say diagnostics doesn't see the transfer control unit? Did it before? Fuse 46 controls the X drive try checking that, check the motor connector at the Transfer box, check you haven't disturbed the ABS sensor at the rear when you were underneath (the system measures wheel slip by ABS) When doing the lock to lock thing the car has to be moving when you do it and sometimes it may take a mile of driving for things to reset. I don't know what diagnostics you have but it needs some dedicated BMW software INPA or similar to see some modules

Simple things first, the transfer box actuator is mounted on the side of it underneath (looks like a windscreen wiper motor) check you haven't disturbed the plug/connector. Then check the fuses. I believe there are 2 if any of the connections fuses are not good you will see the fault lights. As you were underneath its possible that something was disturbed. You can get servo motor repair kits the servo motor on the transfer box has been known to give issues. I am not sure but believe if you change the control module it needs re-coding to the car so lets hope you don't have to go that route.

Did you ever get this sorted? We just changed the complete front suspension on my Brother inlaws 5 sereis (2011) he brought a kit from ebay £400 and with some muscle from one of my sons we changed the whole lot in a day. So if you factor in 5/6 hours at Garage rates it would take you to £800 or so, if they were only changing one part they are taking the proverbial. Regarding the gearbox leak any competent Autobox specialist will change the seals for you and top up the trans fluid. If they were quoting to change the trans fluid and filters with new gaskets and seals its still dear. I had the ZF trans in my X5 serviced last year (84k) cost was £335. I think your BMW specialist still thinks he is a Main Dealer

Your X5 has 2 fans one is engine driven via a viscous clutch the second is at the front of the rad and is electric. The electric fan takes control inputs from the thermostat, air temp, aircon pressure switch and a couple of others from memory. Does it run all the time or just at start then stop, it is designed to test run at ingnition on. If its running constantly you need someone with diagnostics to read which input is causing the issue. Regarding tick over my 4.4 tick over was around 6 to 700 rpm my 4.6 is the same, for comparison my AMG's were around that mark too.

As you have an E53 already Mike just the obvious really, don't be seduced by a shiny body and slightly different interior. Make sure everything works as it should if it doesn't and the seller doesn't want to fix it ask your self why. Whether it's a private or Trade sale be hyper critical you own an X5 so have a feel for the cars and what you want. Good Luck

X5's are renowned for being sensitive souls when it comes to the battery condition. First step I would get the battery checked, if it isn't holding a charge it may be dying. If the battery is OK then make sure its fully charged remember it can take up to 12 hrs to fully charge, I have a Ctek battery conditioner/charger and use it at least twice a year. When you are sure of the battery and it's condition try rolling forward going lock to lock again, if that doesn't cure it I would back track over what you did changing the Fuel pump just in case you disturbed a connector. My money however would be on the battery, I had issues with my 4.4 which drove me nuts battery test said OK the car never failed to start but I would get random fault warnings even though the car ran as smooth as silk. Then I read the code label on the battery it was 10 years old !! must have been the original a new battery fixed my problems the crazy thing is that battery is still powering an electric fence system with the help of a solar charger.