Greydog

Morning Adrian All cars reach an age where OEM Parts (BMW) and their often exorbitant pricing (someone has to pay for the "free" coffee while you wait) becomes uneconomic. The answer is all Marques including BMW do not make their own components such as alternators, starter motors, aircon compressors, switch gear, sensors, audio equipment, suspension parts and bushes the list is endless. Yes BMW specify the functionality and duty cycle but they buy parts in from several sources for each part to ensure continuity of supply and because they specify that their logo and part number on them or the box we pay, oh do we pay (not just BMW). There are many many component manufacturers who supply original parts to all manufacturers but also supply the aftermarket as well, basically same part but no part number logo or expensive box. Remember Tom Hanks speech in Apollo 13 just before launch he says something like " here we are sat on top of $50m worth of equipment all supplied by the lowest bidder" makes you think. Delphi are a world wide supplier so their stuff is well recognized in the motor trade. I have used Delphi stuff in the past with no issues but not on the BMW, the last time was our sons abused Toyota Pickup pressure sensors and lift pump. So unless you are obsessed with originality in your restoration (always admired but at a cost) or whether you are happy with a solid usable classic is a question only you can answer. Me I would have a usable classic every day. My own E53 4.6is is getting there, just over 800 were registered in the UK just under 400 left. I use it every day, it tows a horse trailer and is used off road in the shooting season. I have completely rebuilt the suspension all with "non original" bushes and parts at a fraction of the OEM cost. I have fitted several "non OEM" engine parts such as Throttle body, aircon compressor Vanos solenoids with no ill effects on the car but several significant benefits to my wallet. This year I need to sort the paint work (it is 17 years old) and sadly there isn't any way you can save money there unless you own a body shop. Dave

Hi Rob Here are the solutions that I found from searching. Someone else has suffered what you are suffering 1) 2008 models and before actually have key lock on the trunk - it's hidden above the license plate frame. 2) Some models have a trunk pass through which would allow access through which you could pull the manual release within the trunk using a coat hangar or something. 3) You can apply power to the car from the engine area -there's a big red + and a ground point nearby. Once power is on the car just push the trunk release in the driver's footwell. This is almost certain to work for most everyone. I'm not sure why it didn't work for me, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact that the battery was completely removed and the cable were lying loose. That was strike three - I felt like I was out. 4) The only solution that worked for me was to run down the wiring diagrams and locate the "central locking drive, trunk lid" that's the solonoid that actually releases the trunk. Most of the effort was getting the information - the job itself was actually pretty easy. Here it is: a) Take out the two torx screws just below the glovebox on the left and right to remove the panel below the glovebox. Disconnect the power socket and the light which are attached to the panel. b) Below the fusebox there is a big flat horizontal junction box (Junction Box A4010). You can spot it easily because there are two big connectors going into it facing you. There is a flat wide connector plugging into the BACKSIDE of this same junction box. There are about a dozen small wires going into it and one big brown ground. This is the one you need to get to. (Connector X14270) Ideally, you'd want to disconnect this, but I could not manage to get it out from that position. c) Identify the small wire which is gray with a stripe of green (it looks mostly gray). If you get the connector out, this is pin 12. It's the only grey/green wire in the bunch though. d) You need to very briefly apply 12 volts to this lead to pop the trunk. I did it the ugly way - I very carefully razored off some of the insulation to expose it. Then I just attached some leads to my new battery. I stuck the ground lead into brown wire connector for the power socket I had disconnected when I removed the glove box panel. Then I just brushed the positive lead against the exposed pin 12 wire. The trunk popped instantly. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Adrian Welcome to the Forum Start us off with the easy questions Eh ??? Delphi manufacture many equivalent parts at sensible cost, try Euro Car Parts as you have the part number even the well known Auction site may help. Don't know if you are aware of www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. You should be able to get part numbers for panels then Google is your friend, Ebay Euro Car Parts etc. The Americans loved the Z3 so you may find panels there, here it may be pattern parts or may be panels from BMW Specialist Recycler's I have used Quarry Motors before and found them really helpful. Dave PS. just had a quick look on Ebay Delfi sensors are about £30

Morning Rob We have all sat on that step ?? Couple of questions, 1. can you open the drivers door with the key? 2. Open the bonnet? If you can then in the engine bay are the jump start/charge points, jump leads from your charged battery to those points will let you operate the boot release internally or from your key. Be ready with your key as the alarm may trigger. Once the boot is open replace the battery as normal Dave

Hi Anthony 2 web site that should help, www.realoem.com a BMW parts website put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box, it will bring up your model then search the relevant section there will be some small exploded drawings it will also give part numbers and an indicative cost in US dollars. The part numbers are useful to make sure your buying the right part. www.newtis.info this one is a BMW technical information site, this information is the same as BMW Dealers use for service and repair. As a clue the sounder on my E53 X5 is under the dash in the drivers footwell. Dave

Morning Oneel I would think that there will be some discounts available for the parts in the current climate. I would guess £150 to £300 depending if you buy just springs or springs and shocks, personally I would spend a bit more and do springs and shocks my thinking being if your in there it wont take much longer and you know its all new. As for fitting, if you are using a Garage cost will vary due to labour rates around the country for example my local Indy is around £50 p/h my BMW Specialist £65 p/h my BMW Dealer £200+. So if I were doing this at home I would estimate about 4 hours work obviously make sure you have the necessary tools to hand (in my case a younger bendier son or two is a great help) Good Luck remember before and after pics Dave

Morning Anthony Welcome to the Forum Simple things unplug each sensor and spray the connector with electrical contact cleaner (not WD40) do the same with the sounder. If that doesn't cure t then you need the codes read to point you in the right place. From your description it could well be the sounder but a read of the fault codes will confirm it. Dave PS> Take a look at www.newtix.info for more help it is a BMW Technical Information site the same information that dealers use.

Morning John Strange I use the same phone and mine syncs OK but then I have a much earlier bluetooth in the car, silly thought your phone has contact sharing enabled? Dave

Here's to many SMILES of happy motoring 😁 Dave

Morning Geoffrey As Stu has said later cars need the battery coding, the charging system needs to know whether the battery is AGM or Lead Acid plus what it's capacity is to ensure correct charging. Any good garage with Auto Logic software or better still a BMW Specialist (Google BMW Specialists) will be able to do the job for a lot less than a BMW Dealer. If you have or know someone with Inpa or Carly then you can DIY Good Luck Dave

Morning Warren Welcome to the Forum Great engine the first with twin turbo's interim oil changes will help it's life Very nice look after it enjoy it Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum First point of call would be BMW for a set of OEM Locking Wheel nuts, obviously this will be the most expensive, I would certainly take a look at that well known Auction site. Remember some wheels use a taper on the bolt others use a dome type arrangement as long as they match the bolt you have they should be OK Dave

Hi Nivi Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW technical information site the same as Dealers use for repair and service you should find some information that will help there Dave

Morning Kieron Welcome to the Forum 2 cracked wheels OUCH expensive!!! With the state of our roads avoiding pot holes isn't easy these days there is a stretch of road near me that is like driving on a ploughed field and I have an X5. That road has cost one of our sons an alloy this year, pot hole full of water looked like a puddle !!! Looking at the picture the wheels and tyres really suit the car and look right. Changing the tyres for something with a taller side wall would possibly help but that would need a change of wheels as well, difficult choice. Personally I would stick with what you have. There are some really good upgrades out there my own experience has been with Dynavin check out their UK website there stuff is designed to look OEM but with all the modern advantages. Take care in these weird times Dave

Morning Matty Welcome to the Forum First simple check to do is look in the left hand cubby in the boot you should have a Telematics/Bluetooth unit fitted in there. Have a look at www.reaoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search in either Audio or there may be a Communication section. That will tell you what should be there if it was fitted OEM. If it isnt there then you will know which parts you need to look for. Also look at www.newtis.info this one is a BMW technical site so you should find fitting/trouble shooting information there Good Luck Dave

Now you have started something Trevor. Just got in after moving a horse "Dire Straights" Private Investigations forgotten it was in the CD changer 😁

Morning David Welcome to the Forum The first thing to do is to get the diagnostic codes read, you need someone with Autologic as a minimum preferably someone with a BMW specific code reader. That will point you at the issue or issues. First, Tyres Depending what wheels were originally fitted, will dictate what tyres should be fitted. Often BMW fitted a staggered set more for aesthetics as the car is AWD. If a staggered set up was fitted care should be taken when buying tyres preferably all from the same manufacturer in the correct sizes and at the same time. Differences in rolling radius front to rear or across axles can cause serious damage to the AWD system. If the set up was square (same size front and rear) it will be a little more forgiving but still better to change tyres in pairs on an axle as a minimum if possible. If you cant do the works yourself check Google for a BMW specialist in your area (there is a register of BMW specialist garages) as the work you have had done seems sketchy. A specialist would be able to read the codes, determine what and where the issue is. Other wise you will be throwing money at it. Good Luck Dave

Morning Stu Good that you all were OK. Battery voltage should be 12.5 to 12.8 fully charged engine off 14+ volts engine running, so definitely looks as though your battery could be the culprit. There is a label on the battery which will show its age, my battery died literally overnight just before Christmas. By the date on the dead battery it was the original !!! Replaced with a Yuasa best deal at the time on a Sunday from Halfords. Good Luck stay safe Oh and hope your al happy in the new house Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Like many of us at the moment "most polished least used" ENJOy when you can Dave

Morning Jason Welcome to the Forum My first thoughts would be "back track" checking carefully all Vac lines and connections around the turbo and manifold, Have a look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW Technical Information site (same as Dealers use) so you should find some help there. Dave

Morning Tony I am not a Diesel man (apart from my sons Toyota) however I believe the pressure converter alters waste gate values Have you checked www.newtis.info, select your model then put the part number and description into the search box it should bring up the BMW Technical and Service sheet for that part. I hope this helps Dave

Morning Oneel Like I say I am an old bloke now and my comfort is more important to me. My car is an E53 4.6is you can get your fist between the tyre and the body !!! Maybe adjustable coil overs if they are available would be a good solution and allow you to find the best compromise between ride and appearance. Keep us up to speed with the project and maybe some pics Dave

Morning Tony With my sons Toyota the pipework feeding the EGR was solid with soot/coke as well he brought new pipework. Also worth noting is as he only does short journeys with his tree work business his EGR clogs easily we cleaned it 3 times but the 3rd time it just wouldn't work the answer was a new EGR all fixed. Dave

Morning Oneel I would stick with 20mm drop two reasons 1. Speed bumps 2. Ride quality, being an old bloke ride quality is high on my personal list. Dave

Morning Trevor My daughter describes my taste in music as the man who thinks "classical music" is Dark Side by Pink Floyd 😁 In reality I listen to very little in the car but the engine, sorry proper petrol head 😈 Then of course there is Sorry I haven't a clue Dave