Greydog

But What size front are 225x?x? rear the same 255x?x? If wheels are 17" they should be 7.5J rims 18" 8.0J rims 19" should be 8.0J all round or if wider rears then 8j front and 9j rear The ONLY wheel set that has wider rear rims is 19" so if your car has 17" or 18" wheels the tyres are probably wrong just checking the width does not make them correct Dave

Hi Cameron That sounds wrong for an X! to me unless the rear wheels are wider than the front If your wheels are 17" tyre size should be 225x50x17 94H front and rear 18" Wheels tyres should be 225x45x18 or if wider rims at the rear 255x40x18 at the back 19" rims tyres should be 225x40x19" front 255x35x19" rear As I have said check very carefully if the rear tyres are 255 but should be 225 then the distance they cover each rotation will be to much of a difference between front and rear and will cause damage Dave

Hi Cameron From your description and the additional information it sounds like transmission wind up, probable cause is the rear tyres being new have a larger rolling radius than the front that is putting strain on the transfer case and also the diffs. I would check them carefully tyres are much cheaper than a new Diff or Transfer Case Dave

Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum A bit more information would help us make a guess at what is happening Which X1 model do you have Front wheel drive or X drive? What condition are the tyres and are they all the same make? When the bumby ride happens is it on the straight or in bends does it vary with speed? Does it happen under acceleration? Dave

Morning Paul Check the auction sites and internet for averages, Glass's Guide will give trade values The bottom line is it is worth what someone is willing to pay Dave

Morning Billy Welcome (almost) to the Forum Unfortunatley due to the low ride height on the M cars it isn't unusual for them to suffer front bumper/splitter damage. My next door neighbour has a 335i coupe which he loves and works hard to keep it pristine, he has had 3 incidents (2 of his own and 1 of his wifes) where parking nose in and there had been a raised kerb he has had 2 paint repairs and then made the decision to replace the bumper completely all unrecorded as he just loves his car. If your happy with the car and more important happy with the standard of repair/restoration the Selling Garage have done then why not buy it. Obviously you have to remember it is a 10 year old car so final inspection is your responsibility if still unhappy either negotiate a price that lets you get the work done to your own standards or walk away. I take it you have ensured all switches and toys are working as they should Good luck with the purchase hope you enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Ken Depending what OBD reader your using will either give Generic codes or if it is a fully BMW capable one then you should get better results (I use BMW ISTA/INPA) First I would check near the front fuse panel on the side behind the trim you should find a Multiple Earth point (BMW love these) check it carefully they were a well known source of problems on the E53 and E70. If you have a wiring diagram it may help idntify which pins to check continuity on. As far as I am aware the JBE with integrated PDC is just that it may mean a complete unit which will need coding to the chassis. Unless of course someone like ECU Testing (Derby I think) can fix it but that may put the car off the road for a few days Or as my daughter once told me "you don't need all that stuff Dad there is a Thud when your to close" 🤣 Dave

Hi Ben Without carrying out a full test on each TMS it is difficult to say. I would check the internet for any test criteria then start with the good one note the results then test the faulty one to compare. All I found on the TIS is it is likely to be the LED's (2 of them) how simple it is to change them I have no idea. As an Example I recently had a failed Halo/Parking lamp on my E70 checked ISTA says remove cover 3 screws remove 2 further screws and the lamp is out Ha Ha Ha. What i discovered in WIS was a note that says remove Headlamp from the car to access the screws. Dave

Morning Ken Welcome to the Forum Depending on exactly when your car was built the PDC location changed. According to ISTA cars built before late 2010 the PDC module is in the Boot below the fuse board. LCI models and 2011 on it seems it was integrated with the Junction Box Module which is below the fuse board under the Glove Box the smaller plug A4010a is the PDC connector Dave

Morning Ben The TMS units are probably coded Left or Right when you swap it you need to initialise the Headlamp unit using ISTA or another coding application if you have it I have never done it myself so just reading TIS and WIS from my copy of ISTA which is good up to 2019 when BMW decided to pull the plug Is there no help on You Tube normally quite a few Video How Too's there Hope this helps Dave

Hi Ben Back home again the code you have is pointing to the LED bulbs for the angle eyes are faulty. There are 2 in each headlight. Just replace them with new ones and make sure the semi transparent seals are there to avoid water ingress. Then initialize the headlights via ISTA and all should be good. Dave

Morning Ben You need someone with ISTA/INPA Diagnostics as that will also in WIS (Workshop Information System) and TIS (Technical Information System) I will look later but just back from the Horses and now off to Dog Training when home I will fire up the Garage Laptop and see what I can find Dave

Hi Alan I am sure you have thought of it but it's not just a case of bolting the DPF onto the car it will need recoding to make sure everything works as it should and you don't get silly error codes and messages. As an aside get the Glow plugs checked as the BMW system uses them to help achieve DPF Regen Temperature. I have known of a car (friend of one of our sons) having it's DPF removed/gutted because it kept clogging (short journeys) All the car actually needed was new Glowplugs and Glowplug controller Dave

Hi Philip Welcome to the Forum If I recall the Power Steering Fluid was originally a Febi part not sure if it was the Green one to protct seals etc Try taking a look at www.realoem.com Classic section or even ask your Dealer Parts dept they do some good deals on older models Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Iwould think if the Dealer realises the DPF has been tampered with then they probably won't touch the car at all. Have you checked to see if your car still has it's EGR and Cooler I have read that they are often removed with the DPF work. When the EGR is replaced checked the Dealer will need to run diagnostics and I would think that will tell the tale. Also if the MOT station suspect a tampered DPF it is a fail. Be aware that if BMW replace the DPF it will be a costly excersize I would think in the region of £2k Dave