Greydog

Hi Joe I change Vac lines and breather hoses as a service item on our cars 2 X5's and Wife's Subaru Outback all are serviced annually to manufacturers standards by myself (son says I have OCD 🤣) any rubber hoses showing signs of degrading are changed as a matter of course so I wouldn't worry as long as its changed. Oil and rubber are not best friends and as your potential purchase is around 7 years old it is quite likely near end of service. Subaru is a 2004 3.0 has 164k on the clock and runs like a Swiss watch BMW E53 4.6is 137k like the Subaru runs really well BMW E70 3.0d 138k as the other two. Dave

Morning David Worth a search for any acoustic specialists who may help, for what it is worth my E70 was in for an EGR recall last year and I was given an Electric X1 as a courtesy car, a nice car very quiet apart from tyre/road noise which was a surprise to me having driven a Tesla 3 which had very little I did comment to the Dealer Good Luck with finding a solution Dave

Morning Willy Welcome to the Forum As the breather forms part of the emission control it should be changed. Other than that if the cars History is good and general condition looks to match 70k wear pedal rubbers, seats, tyres etc then you have a decision to make without seeing the car it is virtually impossible for us to give an opinion Good Luck Dave

Hi Tino Changing the FRM should be easy the only issue is that's where BMW store Mileage information (there and the instrument cluster) so you may trigger a tamper dot against the mileage. Easy to correct. Seems you have eliminated the FRM so onto the JBE if you can find one with the same Part number it should be straight forward with no programming Keep going Matey Dave

Morning Christine Is the garage a BMW Specialist or the Garage that sold the car ? I don't know what tests they carried out leaving the battery disconnected is a BMW Dealer trick to clear codes Talked to a friend who works for BMW in the US apparently they saw a number of these faults which requires a Gearbox Software reset or upgrade Dealers can do it using ISTA-P or a ZF Specialist is the next step. Here is what he sent me 240211.pdf Dave

Hi Rhys Near side cable can be a PITA that side has a 3 or 4 inch long sorry 75 to 100mm left hand thread on it seems to take forever to release from the actuator If you haven't already take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then search the rear axel or brakes sections you should find it and the small exploded drawing will help Good Luck Dave

Moring DIMA Welcome to the Forum If we don't know the car, can't see the car how can we give an opinion ?? I may as well ask for your opinion on my E70 If your considering purchasing an F10 528i then History History History and General condition are the way to go a well maintained and looked after car always stands out Dave

Morning Rhys To release the cables you need to remove the Disc/Drum assembly if it is Drivers side you may be able to release the cable at the actuator end but it will be a fiddle but doable. Have you tried rocking the car backwards and forwards I had to do that using Drive/Rev several times before it un jammed. I have also seen one where the cable outer was firmly jammed in the hub (the Dealer solution was New Hub New Actuator cost was enough to write off the car) My solution remove the retaining clip then drive out the cable outer using a long pin punch. It took loads of soaking in penetrating fluid and a big club hammer but it came out 🤣 Replaced the brake shoes replaced Actuator and cable then the Disc/Hub the friend I was doing it for brought an Actuator assembly from Ebay and a set of Pads/Shoes from a local Auto Factor. That was 3 maybe 4 years ago and no problems. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew That would indicate a fault with the Air Intake Temp sensor Dave

🤣🤣E53 car wash mode 🤣🤣

When I had the AMG's 10k was average for the rears anything over and your locked in Miss Daisy mode 🤣

So the old Lead Foot syndrome tyre effect 🤣 Dave

Morning Garry Welcome to the Forum You should have an Engine compartment fuse/relay box up near a scuttle (probably hidden under a cover) R1 is normally the DME/DDE relay. I take it all fuses have been checked carefully also check the Main fuse box in the cabin fuses and Relays. What leads you to think there is an issue with the relay? Dave

Morning Jakub Welcome to the Forum I would guess that there is either a problem with a flawed file in the re-flash, is it the original or a file you obtained? I suppose you have tried clearing it down and re-flashing again, run a diagnostic scan before re-flashing to make sure there are no issues that can interfere Good Luck Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum My bet is Battery dying check the voltage at the charge points under the bonnet, anything below 12.5v with the engine off would indicate a discharged or dying battery. Good Luck Dave