Greydog

Hi Jock Welcome to the Forum When were the Diffs and Transfer box serviced ? Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum Not good what size wheels are you running and is the cracking spokes or rim ? Your not alone with pot holed roads Sunny Sussex isn't any better Maybe as suggested a set of 19" wheels with deeper sidewall tyres may give a bit of cushioning Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum You have an X3 Msport but which one ? What engine and year ? Dave

Hi Kumar Welcome to the Forum I am assuming you mean the Lamp (Bulb) first you need to establish if your Lighting is Halogen bulbs, HID/Xenon or LED all were available for your model year. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your Model then search Lights I know from experience that some models need wheel arch liners removing to access lamp changes which would mean a hefty labour charge from a Dealer (most in my area are £200+ an hour) then the cost of the actual lamp Osram or Philips HID D1 lamps can be brought for around £60 (I would expect a Dealer to double that) so cost of a lamp change at a dealer I guess at £300 to £500 + If they are LED I have never changed one but would guess at similar prices It isn't difficult just fiddly so I would look for online videos as guidance and DIY or try your local friendly Independent Garage Hope this Helps Dave

Morning Malcolm Welcome to the Forum First check is does your car have VDC suspension ? Next check what was its year of manufacture to check model E70 F15 or F85 ? All 3 are possible for a 2014 registered car. If E70 the top mount has for want of a better description a couple of spongy washer like pads, they just fail and you get a knock sometimes when turning easy check under the centre nut of the top mount there is a big washer under that is the sponge/fibre pad easy to see and not hard to change. F15 and F85 don't have them but worth checking the top mount anyway If it's a rotating knock also worth checking the front drive shaft Good Luck tasty motor by the way Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Did a few of these on 2000 to 2005 V8's (including my own 4.6is) but not seen one for a long time from memory the only successful fix was to replace the sealing rings and in one case the aluminium pipe work as it had been damaged previously. I have not heard of a "quick fix" I am afraid I would start with a search of realoem and study the drawings carefully, also if you can get access to ISTA or INPA check out the WIS (Workshop Information System) Good Luck Dave

Morning James Use a BMW Vin decoder to get the original build sheet to see what your model was ordered with is a starting point Dave

Morning Paul I had a similar conversation with our local Dealer a few months ago after receiving a Recall Letter edged in RED and contacting them to be told we will book you in but it may be a while as we are waiting for parts ?? It actually took 2 months (EGR recall) Unfortunately for the Dealers while they are aware of a Recall Program they don't control the stock to carry out the work or the sending of the letters bonkers really, they are also expected to fit in the work and not disrupt their normal service work. I also read recently (last week) that a Dutch company that supplies Micro processors to a huge number of Car makers in Europe and else where is closed at the moment due to US action after discovering they are actually owned by a Chinese consortium. A lot more shortages to come me thinks Dave

Hi John I thought the active grill shutter system was there to improve aerodynamic efficiency but as I have not seen one to play with I could well be wrong 😁 If you have no warnings showing and haven't noticed an increase in Fuel use the only way to check will be by diagnostics Dealer costs will be high but you should find a BMW Specialist near you who has BMW ISTA and can run a check at a reasonable cost. If repairs are needed sensors, actuators or Control unit my advice would be get the part numbers and search the internet for the best supply options Dave

Hi Andrew If the oil pipe seals being replaced didn't fix the issue and you have no other leaks in the area then the next step would have to be remove the Turbo and separate the flange where you are seeing the oil. I would expect to see evidence of the leak there. Good Luck Dave

The plot thickens I have changed 2 Turbo's on friends cars but in both cases they were refurbished Turbo's brought as the OEM ones were beyond help. And were fairly straight forward (grazed knuckles) to change. Could the leak you spotted be coming from the Oil Feed pipe ? Dave

Hi Andrew Are you using www.realoem.com ? The drawing looks like it or is that from the Internet? Is the turbo fitted OEM ? Dave

Morning Anthony Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the Electrical connector and it's sealing ring if they are not seated correctly or the "O" ring is damaged they can leak, a lot. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Unfortunately the only solution is to strip it all down and then find it is a £0.50p gasket (hopefully) Good Luck Dave

Morning Vionea Welcome to the Forum Not sure if you want to replace what you have or make your own ?? Brand new from BMW in primer these only cost around £10 each or if you get the part number from www.realoem.com then search the Internet I dare say there are more than a few out there Good Luck Dave