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Just a quick update. Managed to find a second hand front passenger seat in the correct trim. 1o mins to remove ols seat, 10 mins to fit replacement. No Airbag light issues, and seat belt indicator system, working as expected. 😃🤘 Thanks Guys for you suggestions.

Hi guys, turned out it was the 'Idler Pulley' in the belt. Local autoshop figured it out. $100 repair. Thanks again for your help, appreciated! Norm.

Lol… @Greydog just pops out and strips two cars … I managed to find a matching pair of socks! success all round!

Morning All The X5 is back on the road front calipers changed so no more binding brakes As the sun was out I also fitted new front bushes and rear drop links to my wifes Subaru Outback must be the warm weather 😅😅 This morning I feel like an Old Bloke who spent yesterday rolling around on the garage floor 🤣 🤣 Now cut the grass hedges and tidy the garden Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum First the Dealer is a business and will try to generate Profit where it can. If you are capable of changing Oil and Filters yourself do so and keep all reciepts as part of the cars History Spark Plugs these are normally mileage based for change or if of course showing signs of failing the same applies to coil packs Micro Filter and Air filter these items I change annually as the cost is so low If you are not into DIY then Google the Register of BMW Specialists these garages normally are BMW trained technicians with all the equipment to maintain your car but their hourly rates are often about half that of a Dealership (someone has to pay for the Free coffee) With the BMW Specialists many can register your service records held on the BMW servers and update them. When servicing my own cars annually I buy Mann Filters Air and oil (OEM suppliers)and Castrol Magnatec 5-30 oil which meets BMW LL04 standards cost is around £70. I carry out the work near to MOT time so I can check the car over. I have my own BMW Diagnostics allowing me to rest any service points and of course find and reset fauts Dave

Decided on reflection, that from these red flags and service history/MOT concerns, I'm not going ahead with the purchase. Thanks for the advice!

Well got the 240 back yesterday, have to say excellent service from the main dealer repair centre. New wheel looks great, top pic. Wish I could afford the other 3! Going to see who can match the other ones properly. A front one pictured, not that bad I suppose. Alignment all checked etc. Glad it's back

Good morning all, So, having had my car for a little over 6 months I decided to give the transmission an overdue service. Parts obtained from Autodoc for £205 for ZF service kit, a fill plug & mechatronic sleeve (Just in case) Job wasn't that bad to do. I even found the source of an intermittant rattle from un undershield. Once done I cleared the adaptions & drove up the road, instantly the shifts were noticeably smoother, not that they were too bad before, just slightly less refined. ZF recommend it to be done at 60K I believe, my car has covered 79K miles. I might do just a fluid flush at 100K miles, we'll see...

Good morning Dave True, the one I got ad 79k, full BMW service history and I had to replace almost all gaskets, o rings, hoses, abs sensors, seals, and I still don’t have a fault free car. Although I have just serviced the car, it looks that I should replace the oil sensor just to be on the safe side, I am using the car for family holidays so the last thing I want is to be stranded. Thank you for the support. Very much appreciated!! Take care Dimitri

On your advice I have left a message with Ash Motors North Wales. Many thanks again

Thanks for all the help Dave. I have finally sorted it! I removed the Telematic Unit and took a closer look. The 4 terminals that connect to the fin were twisted and not aligned correctly. I fiddled around a bit and managed to sort these out. Next I checked the battery. The terminals were not actually touching the contacts when the lid was closed. This was mainly due to the fact that the clip on the lid had broken off and the lid was not closing fully to push the battery onto the contacts. So I bent the contacts out slightly, and stuck a piece of card on top of the battery and closed the lid and taped shut with some masking tape! Replaced the unit, connected the three cable connectors, and closed the tailgate. Waited a while and switched on the ignition and all the codes had cleared on there own!! No need to clear any faults. After checking all faults, nothing found!! After thinking that it could cost me a new Unit and Fin costing megga bucks, it cost nothing more than a new battery (£25) and a bit of elbow grease. Boy am I pleased!! I

Superb news for older models of BMW, even up to the Z4 https://www.bmwgroup-classic.com/en/offers-and-services/bmw-classic-reproductions.html

Well….. all I can say is, if the oil leaks onto the ground and you drive forward… then new tyres ain’t gonna do much good! get the oil leaks fixed first, save your engine from blowing up, save money on replacing oil and then get new tyres.

Well all done. If you need to do this you need an extractor to get the injectors out I made my own. Welded an M14 wheel nut to an M12 nut so I could use my Slide hammer 1 2 and 3 popped out really easily 4 5 and 6 no way? Then I talked to a Truck and Plant mechanic he told me they use an air driven vibrating tool to get injectors out. Back home and with the help of one of my sons and an SDS hammer drill with a blunt chisel attachment against the underside of the Slide hammer and it worked. It took the best part of Saturday to get the last 3 out but out they came. All back together battery fully charged plugged in the diagnostics and cleared fault memory then reset the Injector adaptions, then 30 seconds of cranking and she burst into life Dave

Morning Bruce Hope the Test Drive goes well and Welcome Back Dave

Many thanks once again Greydog Dave . I haven't yet contacted my auto electrician friend but when I do I'm sure he will find your information useful and interesting. He will take a while to visit me because of ill health but when he does I will contact you. Many thanks and a happy new year.

Best wishes and here is hoping you all have prosperous 2025

Morning Darren Living in the land of 20mph speed limits certainly isnt going to help, to get the Soot burned off even though you have triggered it with Carly will need a bit of Help. Engine revs need to be at around 3000rpm Engine needs all Glow Plugs working as they are used to achieve high combustion temperatures, if 1 is not working the Regen Cycle may not work. Hope this helps Dave

Out shooting Thursday got to keep my dogs busy 🤣🤣 Good luck Stu

Morning Stu The fact that ignition on no engine everything is working but engine start causes the problem would to me suggest a chaffed wire in the starter circuit that is sending power to the sensors/sounder. Thinking out loud here, I would start with the sounder circuit. If the sounder is disabled do you get the visible warnings from the sensors? Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum First it may sound daft but does it have Sat Nav installed ? you can check using a Vin Decoder to get the original build sheet. If the car has Navigation it should be selectable in iDrive. If the car has Car Play or Android Auto enabled the previous owner may have preffered that route for Navigation (my Daughter uses Carplay) Dave

From Memory you have a Fuse box under the Bonnet, the main one behind the Glove box and one in the boot You should find a fuse layout folded in one of the boxes Fingers crossed it's a simple fix (Fuel Pump Relay) Good Hunting Dave

Karl If you have a seized level sensor arm either change it or lubricate it as it really could be your issue. Fix faults first other wise trying to reset Fault Codes is a waste of time as they will just return. As I understand it each Headlamp has 3 modules (1) a main Headlamp module (2) a Headlamp Control Module (3) a Cornering Module make sure the plugs are clean unplug them a spray with Contact Cleaner and reconnect making sure they are seated correctly Then try disconnecting the battery to clear faults Dave

Morning Karl Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of one, not without actually opening the sealed unit and testing to see if it is a LED failure or something on the PCB Have you talked to guys like Cartronics or ECU testing as there are so many cars now with LED lights someone must be repairing them surely ? The alternative (did it with my E70) is a recycled one got mine from Quarry Motors not cheap but below 1/3rd of the price of new Dave

Normal 🤣 This is a BMW Forum 🤣 I will make a Video later today Dave

….. ah!,….. I wanted the De Cat model 😔😂😂😂

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ice cream would be easier to clear up 🤣🤣 Got a fold up dog cage I could lend you as long as no one dobs us in to Child Welfare 🤣🤣🤣

Hi David Welcome to the Forum Very tasty looking car as the power plant is basically the same as the M4 what about exploring an exhaust swap ? I would think Centre box back would be pretty much the same. just how that could effect warranty I am not sure if all parts are OEM Just thinking out loud Dave

The spigot is the raised ring on the wheel hub that locates the wheel. It should match the big centre hole in the middle of the wheel, If the one in the wheel is smaller it wont fit if it's larger thewheel wont centre correctly and will probaly wobble Good Luck Buddy

Hi Stu I think you could well be right had this with the 4.6 loss of power, stop restart all OK then randomly lose power New throttls body sorted it. Good Luck Dave

Yay we are back well done the Mods Dave

👍🤣👍 A job well done

Morning Sammie Welcome to the Forum Timing Chain (BMW recommend betweeb 80 and 120k) is an engine out job so clutch and rear main seal at the same time I would guess between £1000 and £1500 depending on who does the work Hope this helps Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware the E34 range did not have any separate back up batteries just the main car battery. Dave

Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check

Hi Dave Many thanks for the quick response 🙂 Yes, I traced all the Pt No's listed as 65327164978......but all appear to be solid red without the mesh covering. The black mesh covering appears to be easily removed....... I may do this to tidy things up; but I would then have the standard fitting Pt No 65327164978. I was attempting to retain/replace, as the 'black' lens as a contrast to red paint work, which in my opinion looks more appealing than red on red 😝 I see there is a version of solid black lens which hopefully glows a clear red.......I may give it a go. Once again, many thanks for your reply. Paul

Hose worked so all back together now must.of bought about 5 hoses

Bmw z3 2.2i sapphire edition individual model 2002 11 months mot no advisories Some service history Just under 1k spent last year Has had new rear discs and pads also Car is very clean for its age,has small bits off laquer peel on front and rear bumper Any more info please asks £7000

It's a 2.8 with just under 40k on the clock will need all the ushall things done breaks shockes etc etc sills etc look but please come and view for yourself before bidding...no advisories on previous mots for rust, need a good wire brush underneath and parts will need replacing as it has been sitting for 5 years on road not grass and been undercover, Stunning black and blue leather interior some wear on drivers seat, leather paint will easily sort this. If ur looking for a cracking low millage low owner project then look no further, projects like this dont come along to often, runs really good engine is very strong but obviously it will need a full service,abs light and traction control light on probably due to being sittin Exterior had no rust apart from stone chips that have got bit rusty there is a few scratches on the boot lid and couple of small marks around body work £3500 £4k with new parts

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook and settings in the iDrive/infotainment system, check the media for any videos that may help with settings If all else fails try your dealer as your car is under Warranty if it isn't something you have done they should fix it Good Luck Dave

She passed the MOT ok trev?

You guys ever figure this out?

Hi Rob Welcome to the Forum The 1 series you owned was it a diesel? I would at a guess it was a 118d or 120d, extended service intervals really caught many N47 engined BMW owners and BMW out. The engines that were getting oil changes seemed to fair much better The engine in the E46 is different N46 at the low-ish mileage 55k oil and filters would always be my priority to give the engine a better chance at a long life Lots of things effect ball joints and rubber bushes. Just helped a neighbour with a suspension rebuild he got a complete kit for £120 Lower wishbones track control arms and Anti roll bar links took around 3 hours with tea and biscuit breaks. Check the internet or your local motor factors for costs then use it as a negotiating point Good Luck with the purchase Dave

history and good old gut feeling. Condition and loads of history with money no object kind of ownership. What i do with cars with expensive parts is i build up a car slush fund, over time you can dip in to the slush fund to maintain it. Build up the car slush fund to a level that if anything bad happens u can cover a big chunk of it. Like a personal warranty where the money is in your bank and not a warranty / dealers bank account.

My money is on a drain George

Hi Stu The only bit left is the air gap sensor to reluctor ring. Try measuring the air gap on one of the other wheels make sure the mounting area is absolutely clean and the sensor fully seated a small difference can make all the difference The X5 can still send you Bonkers Good Luck Dave

Hi again Dave. Peace at almost any price can often be a relatively life changing compromise !!

You are welcome Danny A BMW Dealer will not repair anything, they just change components at the Customers expense and no regard for cost I would use a BMW Vin Decoder site put the Vin number in and you should get the original build sheet Look at the list of Codes S676A is the basic Hi Fi system S688A is Harmon Kardon S6F1A is Bowers & Wilkins. Then you will know the starting point and will be able to make choices on how you move forward. BMW Designers are good at hiding components in places where they can get flooded, several models over the years have had Nav/Audio in the boot buried under the floor. Plus many of those models had a boot that could become a swimming pool if a seal was damaged or failed so moving your amp out of the danger zone makes sense. As you had the 40 amp fuses melted check the speakers as well as they may have been overloaded For service, help and knowledge there is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find more than one near you most are BMW trained they will have the equipment and Knowledge (one near me specialises in BMW/Porsche) yet is still less than half Dealer labour rates. One of those or an Audio Specialist would be on my list if I couldn't do the job myself. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ross I would start by checking that all injectors are OK, seated properly and fixed down at the correct torque. If there are no injector or glow plug issues then the valve train needs investigation could be a lifter sticking or a Vanos issue. Dave

I go with Dodo or Zaino.