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I would guess £500 + + from a Dealer so not exactly dear if yours isn't working 😁 Check www.reaoem.com either search by Vin number then through the sections or by the Part number you have. If you aren't aware double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates. Then check the normal Auction sites but don't forget there is a healthy BMW Specialist dismantler network they may help Dave

I would start with the Antenna get the Part Number from the one in the car or www.realoem.com and find a replacement Changing it will take around Half an Hour reprograming your Keys about 5 to 10 mins Or if your a real Tinkerer you could take the Antenna out open it up and see if you can fix it Dave

You will be our "Go To Man" to interpret BMW speak into English 🤣 I would be tempted to just source the lot hoses clips everything then you will know everything is right. Don't forget BMW have a Classic Section and are often helpful on prices for classics My old Boss used to run V8 SD1's in the late 70's early 80's Dave

Morning Mustapha Welcome to the Forum First place is to double check the work that has been done for you to get that many issues either something is not connected or something is wrongly connected would be my guess If someone has cross connected a sensor fingers crossed it hasn't caused damage to the DME Most of your faults are MAF and Valvetronic sensor related so go back over the work very carefully making sure all sensor plugs are connected to the correct sensor and seated correctly Check there are no loose wires or and shorts Not sure what the garage did as changing the coolant system is straight forward Rad, Water pump, Thermostats, and hoses plus the fan. I would be talking to them about why you have so many issues Dave

By the sounds of it you are having major electrical issues with you Zed I found similar issues stemmed from water collecting in the boot area (on the left hand side under some trim cover) removed the cover and found a pool of water that had flooded out the electronic components in there which control the alarm system so possibly start there

Wait until they add AI and the damn things start thinking for themselves 🤣🤣🤣 Can't wait 😂 Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hope it's back with you quickly and you get to drive it again soon Dave

Morning Fawad Welcome to the Forum Oh dear bit of a Saga First your questions 1. BMW do not make Turbos they buy them in, as a Company BMW do not repair anything they simply change New part for Old at the Clients expense hence the ££££ cost. As BMW found no sign of leaks to the loom I would challenge the Warranty Company as it is not an Injector fault 2. Garrett are one of the oldest turbo manufacturers ( around since the early 50's) they have been around longer than BMW have been fitting turbos to their cars? So a Garrett Turbo is at least as good (possibly better) as OEM quality depending on it's source. As your Warranty is not in place I would get a good independent to change the turbo or at least its actuator BMW have washed their hands anyway Good Luck Dave

Hi Dave, good Morning My car has been fully serviced since new by BMW and I have 31000 on the clock. Still getting 41.9 mpg

Morning Chris The Reverse Camera may have disturbed the Video feed fingers crossed replacing it will sort the issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins Neg first (a Dealer trick) it will reset any simple fault codes Good Luck Dave

To hopefully bring this thread to a conclusion, I got the oil changed (twice) which did not fix the smoke. This week I got the turbo rebuilt. According to the indy, the seal in turbo is a common problem with lots of bmws. Need to let the car stand for a few days to see if there will be a build up but so far so good. Will report back.

Thanks Dave ,I'll look it up.Cheers and Happy motoring

Merry Christmas Dave and all the rest! thank you for all your help and knowledge and words of encouragement throughout the year. All the best for the new year and I’ll see you in 2024.

Like most of the electronics and accessories on your car BMW don't make it they buy it in OEM sensors are I believe made by HUF and are not as expensive as they are when packed in a BMW Box 🤣 The biggest cost/pain is the tyre has to come off to change them that is why when one failed on my E70 I waited for Tyre change time then did all 4 Dave

Morning Peggy Welcome to the Forum 🤣🤣🤣 BMW Dealers have a twisted sense of humour don't they 🤣 Then they will tell you you should have a pair Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts list (same as the Dealers use) put the last 7 digits of your Vin number into the search box it will call up your model search the Light section for the part number for the Headlamp. Once you have it carry out an internet search you should find a replacement for about £200 upwards depending on source, any sensible home mechanic will be capable of changing them over Dave

First thing is get the bonnet open so you can sort issues As for diagnostics BMW ISTA/INPA is the best but you will need a laptop to mount it on. There are also i-Carsoft,Foxwell and Autologic that will work Dave

It got better once the TC was calibrated. However as the current tyres are not BMW star rated I’m changing them to Pirelli P zero’s this week. There was a couple of stored TC over temp errors so changing them just to be safe.

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Just check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look for what you need probably front axel section. Double click the part number and if the were any alternates it will show a list. Take care as there could be a few ratio choices 3.73-1 3.08-1 The next challenge will be getting your hands on one at a reasonable price BMW tend to only sup[y exchange units at 4 figure sums plus fitting. So check out the specialist Dismantlers Dave

Happy birthday to my X5! …. Not me… I’m waaay past that. born today in 2002!

Hi Neville Welcome to the Forum If you know the part number it helps but sources will be limited either BMW new = £££ Or there is a register of BMW Dismantlers worth checking them as well I have used Quarry Motors with success in the past Good Luck Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum I guess your price is from your BMW Dealer ? Not a problem I have ever had to deal with but I did read some time ago about a company "Toponline.com" worth a Google search. Apparently they make roof seals and repair kits. If I recall they are an American based outfit but they seem to have a good reputation You could also look at specialist dismantlers like Quarry Motors Good Luck Dave

Morning John The only time I have seen that code was on a 540d touring the cause there was a split inter cooler interesting it also threw a Transmission fault. Once the intercooler was replaced everything reset and ran like new Check all the charge hoses, pipes and the intercooler for damage would be a starting point Dave

Hi Jitendra The best rated front/rear dash cam currently is Thinkware about £200 and recommended by Camera website Viofo A119 V3 - RECOMMENDED. Buy now from Amazon (£99.59) There are always offerings by Nextbase who were one of the originals in the market The price from your Independent seems really fair remember BMW do not make these they have them made badged and boxed so when you add the Dealers mark up and around £200 p/hour labour rate it isn't difficult to get to their price Me I would DIY if that is beyond your skill set use the Independent Dave

Morning Jitendra Enjoy your new to you Beemer Dave

Morning Alexandra C-tec make excellent trickle/conditioning chargers I use mine once a month on my moth balled E53 4.6is and my wife's Subaru which see's low use It is very easy to lift the bonnet and un clip the charger Dave

Where is the car stored? Could you get a trickle charger or a solar panel to keep the battery topped up? I would cover it and have a small solar panel personally.

Few weeks ago I set off in my z3 , guage was on at least three quarters full. About 30 miles later it was going towards the red , hadn't brought wallet with me so slowly headed home. I could see the guage dropping ! I was in sport mode , driving urban and A roads , switched to normal mode to get home. No fuel leaks , reset mpg monitor and driving carefully was getting 24mpg semi urban. The way it drinks fuel it seems like a 4.2 Jag! Is this normal, it's done 35k miles and emissions are perfect . Or is it because I'm used to a 30d X5 for normal use that sips fuel by comparison.

Yeh, that's not too dissimilar to mine when driven around town and put under hard acceleration. Motorway is definitely better and can achieve high 30's at a slightly slower pace than everyone else Also, if you have the autobox version then this would traditionally return lower MPG than a manual (seems to be the other way now with modern autoboxes)

Hi Mark I think the fact that one of his customers has decided not to as it isn't Lane Assist and it bothered them tells you it probably would throw a code. Having said that I guess you could turn off Lane Assist or code it out My feeling is anything fitted should work if not it could have an effect on any Sale/Trade In price Just my thoughts Dave

SeanC I apologise for not responding sooner. I missed your post and won't bore you with excuses. I've not followed up on the smoking issue - the transfer box replacement knocked a hole in my budget so I'm holding fire on what might be an expensive turbo fix. I did talk to a non dealership BMW bloke and he mentioned turbo,valve seals, etc,but without taking the car in he couldn't be sure. Again, I'm sorry for leaving you hanging. R

Hi Dave Thanks for the link onto the parts site. Got me baffled. The old part I have is as shown on the diagram on the parts site. Sadly the end I want to see on the diagram is the end I can't see. I'm fresh back from a weeks holiday and the car has stayed pumped up over that time which is a result. Clearly there won't be a lot of air demand through the pipe. I've tried negotiating with the Mrs but after what I did to her tights when an old fan belt snapped she wasn't best receptive. As you suggest I'm going to cobble a small mesh filter and fix it to the pipe. Thanks for your help. cheers Mike

Morning Ted Welcome to the Forum If you are determined enough you can achieve anything, the question would be how practical it would be. As I understand it Petrol cars need to Euro 4 compliant or better Diesels Euro 6 or better. So if you can find an F70 2007 to 2013 4.8 petrol it will (or should be) ULEZ compliant. The Diesels I am not so sure as I have a couple of acquaintances who's F70's have been shown as none compliant. As a broad stroke 2015 or later for Diesel So back to your question if you upgraded the engine, emissions controls and probably a whole load of stuff I haven't thought of. Then took on the battle with TFL to get the car accepted as emissions compliant? At the moment they work on Registration/Year of Manufacture not actual emission output. I think cost would outweigh the cars value making it cheaper to trade it for something compliant. If you really want to stay with the F70 then the 4.8 is the answer if you find a low mileage model with the M-tec body kit brilliant. Hope this helps Dave

Hey @Greydog Thank you for your suggestion, it is very useful to me

That is definitely not the key for that car then, I would guess that someone has mixed up 2 sets of keys I would guess your BMW Dealer would charge about £150 (that is a guess) so check with them, at least you have a working key so can use the car while saving your hard earned cash. That is unless the seller says woops and has the other. Good Luck Dave

Welcome to the Forum Donal ENJOY Dave

Morning Ryan Sounds like a good buy Use google for test parameters for the sensors you should be able to check them with a multi-meter Fingers crossed it's the simple fix ENJOY Dave

Well ?? Come on Matt did you love it or hate it Dave

Morning Markus Sorry that isn't a code it is only the cars display warning. To begin with have the fuses been checked? Check the fuses if they are OK then you need a proper diagnostic session to identify the problem. I have seen 1 failed trailer control unit and 2 failed gears in the folding motors (one on my own X5) All 3 I was able to fix by sourcing replacement a replacement control unit, and stripping and rebuilding the folding motors. Dave

Morning Rick Not sure what equipment they are using but I do know that downloading and then uploading to the car for even some of the more basic programs can take a few hours. So my guess would be they start an upload and then do other stuff, then check on progress if the program required an action obviously everything stops until the action is taken. As a garage they clearly have to schedule the downloads around other work to ensure the best use of time. Good Luck sounds like it's almost done Dave

Hi all… not sure if this has been done, but I’m bored… list your car history below… I’ll start. peugeot 309, Peugeot 205 gti 1.6, bmw e36 316,bmw e36 m3,bmw e34 520, bmw e34 525, bmw e34 518, french poo Laguna 2l, ford streetKa, bmw e90 320, bmw e46 316, bmw 3.0 e53 X5, Peugeot 307cc…. company cars…. ford escort van, golf tdi, golf gti, Hyundai accent, Hyundai lantra, rover 220, rover 620, Skoda Octavia, Skoda vrs, Audi TT, ford transit van, seat Leon, Vauxhall Astra, hyundai Tucson, Vauxhall combo, Audi A3. I think that’s it as well as our 2 motorhomes and a yamaha 125 motorbike. everybody…… GO!

So here goes: Very first car and others: Triumph Herald 1200 (12/50), white sunshine roof and red seats TR6 x 3 Porsche 924 Turbo Range Rover P38 Jaguar XJ x4(XJ40, X300 & 2 x 308X) Daimler Super V8 LWB Sabb 900 cab Volvo V70 Mini one Range Rover L322 BMW 120i E88 ------ Wife's cars Morris Marina Citroen Diana (2CV) Golf cab Series 1 Golf Cab new version

Morning It seems you have been very lucky You need to check all drain holes they have small rubber flaps that can get blocked with leaves and stuff over time to make sure your engine bay doesn't get flooded again. Change the oil and check carefully for signs of water in the oil and filter also worth changing the fuel filter as well Good Luck Dave

Morning Stu Wife's Cars, Ford 1600e, Triumph 2500 Estate, Volvo 760 Estate, Volvo 960 Estate, Volvo T5 Estate x 3, Subaru Legacy Estate, Subaru Outback 3.0 R Perrin. Company Cars, Vauxhall Cavalier, Hillman Avenger Estate, Ford Granada, Ford Scorpio, Rover SD1, BMW M5, Peugeot 605 (like a kit car in reverse the more you drove it the more it dis assembled it's self) First car Sunbeam Talbot 90 Convertible (first car I rebuilt) Mini, Mini Cooper 1275s, Rover P5B, Healy 3000 (Mistake) Jaguar Mk2 3.8, Sunbeam Rapier H120, Ford Sierra Cosworth Whale Tail, Ford Sapphire Cosworth, Lotus Carlton, Range Rover (another mistake) , Volvo Estates 850 T5, 850 T5R, V70 T5, V70 T5R, V70 T6, Mercedes Estates AMG E55 x2 Mercedes AMG CLS 63, BMW X5 4.4, BMW X5 4.6is, BMW X5 3.0D Dave

Morning Markus Welcome to the Forum All clean underneath nothing jamming it ? What is the Error Code ? Have you checked it online ? I would check all wiring and connections, fuses and relays, then make sure that the mechanism isn't blocked or jammed then clear the code and see if it works. A diagnostic session will help if your stuck Dave

Morning Rick Welcome to the Forum Well some one has to pay for the free coffee 😅 At the bottom of this issue is the fact that BMW do not repair anything? They replace components at their client/customers expense (they are not alone in this approach). If examined your ECU will have a corroded pin or a dry joint or two due to the failure they also want to change any component that communicates through the ECU like your ISM. Early cars used to suffer FCM (footwell control module) failures BMW's answer New FCM and it can only be done by BMW as it has to be programmed to the car/chassis. There is no "programming" as such it is registering the module to the chassis to avoid getting a "tamper dot" beside the mileage figure. As you have already seen it isn't that hard to do if you have the right tools. First source a matching set of ECU and ISM (used to be ECU and EWS) from a BMW Dismantler use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers for your model. Also buy a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA (preferred) diagnostic suit or a good BMW capable diagnostic that will allow program/registration changes. With ISTA/INPA (the one I use) you can interrogate individual modules so first make a note of any information you can take from your existing ECU/ISM modules Serial numbers/chassis/ Vin numbers and mileage, BMW store mileage in 2 or 3 places/modules and they need to match (anti theft) Then it is a case of fitting the replacement parts and editing the Chassis information and mileage. Remember BMW do not make these parts they buy them in and rely on the fact that the vast majority of customers are frightened to even lift the Bonnet (oops Hood) educated to only respond to instructions on the cars screen 🤣 Once you have the diagnostics there is so much more you can learn about your car ISTA is complete with TIS (technical information system) and WIS (Workshop information system) Good Luck Dave

Thanks Dave, wise words 😉 The car also needed seals and bearings in the rear diff- this had nothing to do with the original fault , and I had the oil changed in the front diff. I don't think she was particularly well cared for. So now its back to the smoking exhaust issue I was banging on about in another thread ! Rod

At least your back up and running, and on the plus side the car will feel quicker now your Wallet is so much lighter 🤣🤣

Hi Micky Check the sale of goods act, under the sale of goods act the item must be "Suitable for Purpose" Clearly with odd tyres and a Gearbox issue it is not. Put everything in writing,email them no Text or Whats App and only phone to confirm items in the email. Don't let them try and get you to fix your own car using the Warranty you have paid for !! In your email make sure that you outline the time scale when you got the car, when the fault first occured, when you first contacted them about it. Tell them you have no confidence in driving the car with a fault. Ask them to either have the car repaired for you (Don't forget a courtesy car while yours is off the road) Replace the car with the same or equivalent model or collect the car and refund you in full. If their choice is repair you need a time scale this has to be done in a Timely manner. Just don't let them give you the run around Dave

Hi Chris If you aren't aware look at www.realoem.com (BMW Parts List) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in to the search box it will call up your model. Then search the brake section if you double click the part number it should show any alternative Part Numbers and Models they were used in An alternative I have used on a 325i that had a handbrake not holding because the teeth on the quadrant had worn was 15mins with the welder and a file to build up and reshape the worn teeth. 3 years later it is still working fine (our Sons friend) Stu is right about Quarry Motors but if they can't help try Googling BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are about half a dozen from memory worth an email or two Dave

B) :D I found this site trough FB. I am glad that I found it. I will give it to a few of my friends. :D