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E83 Battery not charging


Frank1979
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Hi all,

I have a problem with my e83.  It started about a week ago when it started to turn over really slowly.  Tested the battery and it was showing under 12v so replaced it.  Then it wouldn't start.  Recovery agent advised starter motor. Replaced.  Started ok but not charging battery.  Battery light comes on intermittently, drives ok but low on power and wipers are slow.  Replaced alternator with new unit.  Reset on board computer menu.  Still no change.

 

I'm totally out of ideas!  Thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance...

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Does the e83 need the battery coding to the car? 
also , is the battery a high power unit? What make is the alternator? Are the battery leads corroded and is it earthed correctly? 
If you start the car, can you remove the positive battery lead and will the car still run? That way you can test if the alternator is working. 
some brands of starter motors can crank high and kill a battery. 
 

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Hi,

Thanks -

Battery is a yuasa 5000 silver from halfords.  900 cca which is higher than the bosch it replaced.  

Both alternator and starter are NAPA, bought from local motor factors.

All the leads are as new - never seen a car so clean.

I'm out atm so I'll check later re disconnecting battery.  From what I can see there's no coding required.  The negative is a straight lead with nothing like an intelligent monitor.

 

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On 7/8/2022 at 11:28 AM, X5smw said:

Does the e83 need the battery coding to the car? 
also , is the battery a high power unit? What make is the alternator? Are the battery leads corroded and is it earthed correctly? 
If you start the car, can you remove the positive battery lead and will the car still run? That way you can test if the alternator is working. 
some brands of starter motors can crank high and kill a battery. 
 

Hi

Tried with the battery disconnected today znd the engine died immediately.  Would this def be a faulty alternator or is the a fuse or such that could be dud?

Thanks, 

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Morning Frank

The E83 (later models) and E83 LCI need the battery registering to the chassis or it may not charge properly also check was the OEM battery AGM or not (your Yuasa will be AGM) again charging can be affected if a conventional battery is swapped for AGM type.

Leads, in the boot when the battery was swapped was it Neg disconnected first then Live and reconnect Live first Neg last ? Check that none of the small wires connected to the live terminal have been disturbed/disconnected. If you can't test it yourself get an auto electrician to check alternator output as a surge can damage the Voltage regulator on the alternator.. OEM conventional battery should be either 80ahr or 90ahr dependent on equipment level. If it was AGM originally (2007/8 onwards IIRC) it should be 92ahr

Hope this helps

Dave

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Thanks - much appreciated.  I'd read about coding the battery but I understood it was not needed on the 2006 model.  Is there a vin number that it starts at?

If it does need coding, is that a main dealer job?  There's so many contradictory reports on the Internet it's hard to work out how to do it!

Thanks - much appreciated. 

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Morning Frank

First even an unregistered battery should receive "some" charge so your comment that yours isn't charging would seem to suggest a fault else where?  Registering the battery is not difficult but does need a BMW capable code reader which many Garages have these days.

Second, look at www.realoem.com this is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then look at the electrical system and Battery if it lists two battery types then either can be used (on some models it will list AGM only) the car obviously needs to know what is fitted to control charging.

Lastly fitting an over size (rating battery) can sometimes shorten it's life as the system will never fully charge it 

Dave

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  • 1 year later...

Having same issue

I’m hoping that you will respond as it has been some time since your issue but I appear to be having the same issue, the alternator has been replaced and all the electronics for it. Still can’t seem to find the issue. 
Did you have any luck with finding a solution.

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Morning Hunter

Check the Battery and its connections really carefully Double check the IBS sensor and cable. If you look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model. Then check the Battery section

Will the car start with a Jump Start? Make sure you only jumpstart at the terminals under the bonnet. Check alternator output (it should be 14.5v or there abouts) Is the Battery OK if it is 11v or less it is dead.

Dave

 

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