Hi all. 
the old girl is giving me issues… the car is too! 
 

when I put the key in and turn on the ignition, there is now a delay before the starter does anything. It’s like it’s doing a check before starting, usually about 3 seconds. 
now my wife has informed me it won’t start and she is at the supermarket.

after a lot of shouting and swearing, I got her to put the jump pack on it… still the same, more swearing and it started! 
then she went home, her day ruined by the car (and not me for a change) she said it runs fine once it starts. But it’s been like this for the past week 🙄

I’m going to have to plug the computer in when I get home.  
this is the same car that the alternator failed on, so could it be the battery is now ducked (it’s less than a year old) the car seems fine once it’s running. 
 

cheers all

stu 
 

Hi Stu

Check the starter motor carefully the earlier E53 were fitted with Magneti Marrelli starter when they start to fail they draw huge amps killing batteries in no time. I have seen reports of 600+amp draw, put a clamp ammeter on the starter and check also check the relays (30g I think see if its warm) crank sensors are another known issue

Mine was slow turning over so changed to Bosch as a precaution 

Dave

Could the cause be this error, relating to the key? Does the immobiliser work off the key sensor on the barrel? 

Morning Dave, 

the starter seems fine. 
just replaced the battery and scanned everything, stopped and started… nothing, turned key back to position 2, tried again, nothing… tried again… fired straight up. No cranking beforehand. 

…. Quick mind !Removed!…. 
stopped and started numerous times… all ok, removed the key and locked/ unlocked the car…. No start… checked the codes and dtc 11(17) wrong password, key 1 is up… 3 cranks later and starts… I think I’m getting somewhere slowly

Morning Stu

Never seen those DTC codes before 

Any codes on the EWS? Have you tried re=registering the Key ? Or if you have a spare key I have known where there is no cranking with the key it is because it isn't registered (how/why that happens who knows) happened twice with my 4.4 I even brought a new key, worked perfectly then one Sunday afternoon tried re=registering all the keys and ended up with 3 working keys??

Good Luck

Dave

The answer to your first question yes the immobiliser needs signal from the Ignition Barrel and the Gear selector/inhibitor 

The release codes move each time the key is inserted in the lock somehow yours has become out of sync. 

Do you have the Sync sequence? if not try this

You need to have all the keys with you that have the remote unlock function

Get in the car and close the doors and windows.

Put one key in the ignition turn it one click forward and then back. Remove the key from the ignition.

Hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, then release the unlock button. The door locks should move to signal successful initialization. For the second key press and hold the unlock button while pressing the round lock button three times, and release the unlock button. Locks should move again. Repeat as needed for any additional keys.

You have 30 seconds to do each key. Keep the car doors closed throughout the procedure. Only the first key gets put into the ignition...the other keys just need to go through the unlock-lock-lock-lock button press.

Dave

 

Hi Dave, I only have 1 key which is key 1. 
I have synced ews to some and reprogrammed the key. 
I start the car, no issues, remove the key and lock the door, unlock and key doesn’t work, try and try again, then the car starts. 
check pasoft and it shows the errors. Clear codes and all good until I lock the car. It’s as if the rolling code isn’t being recognised. 

Edited July 24, 20214 yr by X5smw
I can’t type

Dme code D1 (209), 80 (128)

ews Code 11(17), 13(19)

 

anyone know if I can delete the ews using pa soft? Ews3 unit

 

Hi Stu

Not sure if deleting the EWS will help, in fact may cause more probs than it has already

Your DME code D1 (209) is an Immobiliser code 80 (128) I believe is transmission parity 

How up are you on using PA Soft?

Using the BMW scanner go into the EWS and find the screen that shows live data. It will show green box coloured in next to the EWS security checks it goes through. Key, pass codes, DME code etc. Have a look and see what step in the security checks it fails. If it does fail.

You can use PA Soft to re-sync the EWS and DME which may be the cause 

I would get a pad and paper handy Then open PA soft the first information screen will have IKE and LCM columns showing chassis mileage etc the next box is ZCS/FA Coding either write everything down or take a picture so you know what the original values are.

Next go to the scan screen and open EWS and look for live data if you can run live data you may need a fully charged battery and a back up

lets see what comes up

Dave

 

 

Hi Stu

Just had a rummage on the Garage computer this may help Find your DME type and check the codes

 

BMW Complete Diagnostic Fault Code List.docx

Hi Dave, yet again, your resources are second to none. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have already synced both the dme and ews, also the ews and ilk units, still the same. 
on the ews live data, the top 3 (security coding) keep changing from green to red and back. And then go blank on the data boxes. 
the car seems to immobilise itself once I have locked the doors. If I don’t lock it, it starts no issues. 
the key has been coded to the central locking, all ok. 
could it be the reader around the barrel? 
I think I’ll order a spare key and see what happens, at least it will tell me if the battery is going on the key here. 

 

Morning Stu

What happens if you lock using the key in the door lock ? I have read quite often about ignition switch issues mainly E46 and E39 but as our cars share so many parts it could well be the switch. When it wont start are there any other issues like no horn or radio controls not working?

As your key operates the locking the actual barrel is reading/charging your key so it could well be just the switch on the back of the barrel which can be changed quite easily and (bonus) they are not expensive and you can change them without messing with the steering lock and barrel.

Dave

PS If you aren't aware there is an American site I use www.pelicanparts.com which has some brilliant how too's with pictures apart from the steering wheel being on the wrong side all the bits are the same. Just had a look and changing the switch looks a simple job. 

Hi Dave, next idea?? Lol.

I have replaced the switch but it’s still the same. 
below is hopefully a video with live data off the ews unit 

 

…. Then it started… no errors

this is after turning the ignition off and locking the car, unlocking then no crank 

Hi Stu

Cant get the Vid

Silly thing have you tried moving the selector from park to neutral just in case it is the inhibitor switch? 

Pic1 above shows Odometer reading and Vin the Vin just doesn't look right, is it? If not it may need correcting though I have never seen one alter before.

Your last picture very difficult to see 

Dave

Stu might sound daft but with the battery fully charged, turn the key to position (2) with out starting, let all the lights extinguish then start. I was told it helps all the modules to wake up and the Key to sync when I had the 4.4

Dave

 

Hi Dave… it’s a manual 😊

2 hours ago, Greydog said:

Stu might sound daft but with the battery fully charged, turn the key to position (2) with out starting, let all the lights extinguish then start. I was told it helps all the modules to wake up and the Key to sync when I had the 4.4

Dave

 

Hi mate, my wife seems to think this works but it really is up to the car it’s really annoying me now! 😂

2 hours ago, Greydog said:

Hi Stu

Cant get the Vid

Silly thing have you tried moving the selector from park to neutral just in case it is the inhibitor switch? 

Pic1 above shows Odometer reading and Vin the Vin just doesn't look right, is it? If not it may need correcting though I have never seen one alter before.

Your last picture very difficult to see 

Dave

My car is a manual 3.0i

Hi Dave, the vin is correct. …. The photos are hard to take and videos are a nightmare…. I need a longer usb lead! 😂

Hi Stu

Talked with my local BMW Specialist (he comes to me for Dog Training) he said try this

Close the doors. Put your Master Key in the door. turn it to the 1st position right, then 2nd position right, then 3rd position left. this will reset the starter immobilization sequence which is part of the anti theft system monitored by the EWS system. then put the key in the ignition and fire it up! 

Dave

Hi Dave, 

tried that, still the same. It’s getting so bad the car is going into failsafe mode when it does finally start. 
took ages to get sorted at Tesco petrol station… queues were massive! 😂

Morning Stu 

Are you sure about the Vin number in the picture above does it match the Vin plate ?? I ask because I just tried it in realoem and it brings up a 1981/94 E30 Touring ??

My 4.4 had a DME failure (pin corroded and broken off) and couldn't be repaired I had to get a replacement DME EWS Door Lock and Key from Quarry Motors all came from an identical car to mine fitting was straight forward, though a Faff

Dave

Right! I bit the bullet and have ordered an ews set.

it will be here before Saturday, so any tips or help will be well received. 
I’m guessing the units are plug and play, just the key barrel and door lock are a bit of a pain? 

Dave, yet again, thank you for your time and advice 👍🏻