2006 Diesel

2006 Diesel - main dealer diagnostic test?

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Hi,

I've got a 2006 E83 diesel with a dashboard like Blackpool illuminations (intermittently) that has failed to start twice in as many weeks

before it failed the first time the ABS lights came on and steering became juddery - again intermittently. sometimes just caused by going round a bend or hitting a bit of bumpy road.

2 local and friendly garages have looked at it, found a longish list load of fault codes but typically it starts every time for them and they can't get it to fail or identify the exact fault thats causing it to not start.

looks like only option now is a BMW main dealer - does anyone know roughly how much that would cost and if they are pretty accurate in thier diagnostics? the second garage suggested a "fixed price" test - not really sure what that means?

Thanks!

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Morning Rebecca

Sorry to hear of your problems but more information engine size, mileage plus some history.would help.

First you need a garage (or someone local to you from the forum) that has BMW specific software to read the codes, normally fault codes will be in 2 categories Fault, and Fault not present.

Often a fault will trigger others which then after an engine restart remain as a shadow. Clear all the faults restart and see which return (a) after restart and then (b) after a test drive.

Start issues, get the Battery checked voltages should be 12v+ at rest 13/14v while charging. A battery failing will also throw all sorts of spurious codes, if the battery is OK get the alternator checked. 

Power steering, have you had the fluid levels checked? there was an issue with some of the LUK made pumps but I thought that was only earlier cars. Get the sytsem and belts checked for condition and leaks. Also get the x-drive fluid levels checked are all tyres OK and correctly inflated.

There are many good independent garages and BMW specialists who will have the software to carry out a scan and produce a report a BMW dealer will charge at least an hours labour (my local one is at around £120 p/hr) for a diagnostic session.

Diagnostics are pretty specific as the correct software can interrogate individual control units such as Engine, Gearbox Transmission, Brakes, SRS, etc. The thing to remember is once a code/fault is identified it has to be investigated to ensure it is the cause and not a symptom or you can throw money at the issue. Example ABS light fault can be triggered by a sensor (diagnostic will tel you which one) a wiring issue, or the ABS pump. 

My instinct says battery issue for the starting and multiple codes, I think your power steering is mechanical not electric and if OK I would suspect a transfer case problem for the jerkyness most common cause is tyres 

Dave

 

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Hi Dave, 

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond - 2L - quite high mileage at 143k I brought it a couple of years ago and have it serviced twice a year, previous issues with dpf filter/turbo/glow plug modules but no issues at all for at least a year.

first time it didn't start I got towed to my local garage who did a diagnostic, a long list of fault codes appeared but he couldn't identify which codes were causing the issue even after clearing them all down and trying to see what came back - It started every time he tried it so I drove it away and booked into a BMW specialist garage a week later. before the appointment date it failed to start again (exactly the same) so I got it towed in to garage number two early. Once again it started every time and they couldn't find the root of the problem-  as a double check they did a battery and alternator test (which were fine) and recommended I take it to the main dealer

test is £96 so not too horrific but I had a call from them this afternoon to say they were struggling to find the fault that is causing the non start -  I hope to hear better news tomorrow but am at a loss what to do if the "experts" can't find it as like you say I could be throwing money at the symptoms...

Thanks again for responding - I'm learning more about cars than I ever thought I'd need to!

 

 

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Morning Rebecca

Thanks for the additional information, as you service the car twice a year all should be sound, the DPF probably needed a regeneration cycle, turbo issues are not unusual on short journey cars sticking vanes and actuators, glow plugs and controller again not unusual at around 100k from what I have read.

As the "experts" as you term them are struggling let's try some old fashioned logic. First there are many, not all but many young garage mechanics out there (and at my age thats any one under 50) who have grown up with "diagnostics" and this may sound harsh they become reliant and stop actually analyzing what they are seeing. They stop fixing things and just change parts until the issue goes away.Your issue is (a) intermittent ((b) If I am reading correctly once fault codes are cleared it runs OK until your next starting problem. 

So any recorded fault codes point to a control module, if the module or one of it's sensors had a problem the fault could not be cleared, yet it seems yours can be. What is often forgotten and ignored is the wiring loom, I would be checking it for continuity giving it a twist and turn while doing it and also checking the earth points a loose or poor earth connection can cause a lot of issues. I would logically begin with the essential starting circuits. Ask them if it could be a faulty earth or loom?

Fingers crossed for you

Dave

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