All Activity

Hi Chris You need to go online and search the Register of BMW Specialists there should be one close by The garage your using seem a little lost, the most common problem is Fuses as already said there are several dependent on model, to muddy the water a little more sometimes they are not blown just dirty so need checking carefully (I use a good contact cleaner and a new fuse) They are correct that low battery voltage can cause issues and 11v would indicate a discharged or dying battery, have you tried charging it ? If it won't take a charge then it needs replacing and registering to the chassis (not difficult and can be done after issues are fixed) At the front fuse box check fuses 63 Automatic Transmission Control 10 amp and 64 Gear Selector Switch 7.5 amp How do they know it wasn't the Gear Selector unit ? Did they check fuses? With a fully charged Battery I would carry out a Diagnostic scan note any codes then clear the fault memory and register the Battery correctly. Then check voltages at the charging points under the bonnet, Engine and Ignition off should be 12.5v minimum Engine running Voltage checked at the same place should be 14.6v. Now hopefully you will have a driving Beemer Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Dave and thank you for the welcome and advice.. It always drove fine before hand.. I came home from work, parked it up, saw I had parked like a fool and restarted it to straighten it up.. It went into D but then slipped back into P by itself and stayed the same way.. The RAC came out, ran their diagnostic on the transmission and it came back with 420641, Parking lock incorrectly applied: plausibility driver command /sensor confirmation. Intermittent. Some research suggested that the common fault is the gear selector unit. I found a replacement, provided it to the garage in Taunton and their response it it isn't that. They said it might be a low battery ( just over 11 volts) and if the car wasn't told the battery was replaced, it can cause problems.. I looked at the fuses under the glove box but the ones I want to look at are buried underneath a relay that I cant get out. I asked if low or dirty transmission fluid might cause it, the garage suggested not, especially if the engine is cold.. I'm still concerned that it might be that as a previous service identified a small oil leak but they weren't sure where from.. I just don't know what to do for the best...

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Oh dear I hope the garage is not a BMW Dealer or Specialist and are just an ill informed Independent. How did the car drive before the issue? If it was OK then you had the "stuck in park" problem First this is not an uncommon issue and is fairly well covered on the Internet Task 1. Check all the transmission linked fuses there are several from memory also check the relay. Task 2. If all fuses and relays are in good order get that Gearbox Control Module checked. A job better done by someone with BMW or ZF capable diagnostics. A full Diagnostic scan should tell you more, it would be embarrassing to spend a lot of money rebuilding/changing the transmission to discover it was a 20p fuse Good Luck Dave

Hi all... I have a dilemma. I have a 2014 530 D M Sport Auto with a gearbox that has gone into Park and wont come out.. Garage says its probably going to need a gearbox rebuild at around the £3k mark.. A second hand gearbox costs less than a third of that but is the risk worth it?

Yes mould. Am trying something specifically sold for mould and hopefully that will break it down so I can clean it off, colour and proof it in the spring. It does live under a cover over winter so that is likely culprit I guess. Will put on some pics before and after. Will also be using a very stiff brush to properly agitate and work the affected areas . If anyone else has tried something that works on removing mould please advise.

I did see transmission fluid dripping the other day so let's keep our fingers crossed it's low on fluid and coming out that sleeve

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Not sure if this is the same issue as Lou reported on the Forum in 2024 ? Sadly he didn't close out the post so we don't know if his issue was sorted As your dealer has attempted a repair I would pressure them to make it good and permanent Good Luck Dave

Ok

My 2022 rear bumper was repaired 18 months ago and is seperating again. The first time, the dealer (BMW of Salt Lake) removed the bumper and charged $350 USD. I noticed the problem again a few weeks ago. There is no apparent damage or impact that would cause the seperation. Are others seeing this issure? Thanks, Alan

BMW M Sport Coupe Cream leather interior in great condition, no rips or tears. Drives beautifully - smooth handling, quick acceleration, and excellent on fuel. Recently had a full MOT and service (June 2025) and runs perfectly with no mechanical issues. - M Sport Package - Heated Full Leather Seats - Cruise Control - Steering Controls - Automatic with Paddle shifters - Low mileage for its age Plate is private and will be removed upon sale - original plate is PJ13HKO. A well cared for car in great condition inside and out - ready to drive away. Any questions please feel free to contact me - Swansea SA1 Marina

2024 G80 M3 Competition 12,600 miles Isle of Man Green Silverstone Interior Ultimate Pack from factory Including… Comfort Pack Technology Plus Pack Visibility Pack Carbon Pack (With carbon bucket seats and carbon interior trim) Extended Merino leather Harmon Karden Sound system Paint work ceramic coated from factory Femto ECU Unlock R44 Performance Titanium exhaust with carbon tips Scorpion Catless Downpipes MST Performance Air Intake MHD Stage 2 Map Eibach front lowering springs Carbon Factory Carbon rear spoiler Carbon Factory Carbon front splitter Carbon Factory Carbon front canards Ghost Immobiliser Factory fitted tracker Scorpion Thatcham Approved tracker Run in service completed on time @ 1200 miles Interim oil change completed @ 6500 by BMW approved centre (For personal preference) Next official oil change due in 2000 miles All original parts available to come with car except factory Carbon spoiler as this was sold Car has never been launched (Pritty sure this can be verified somehow by logging into the car) Immaculate inside and out Non smoking and no pets

Morning Michael Not good news and that has been going on for some time I would say so the seller wasn't truthful Check the Transmission for any sign of leaks especially around the Mechatronic Plug it may be worth carrying out a Service (Change fluid and Filters) see if that cures that issue. Your car was built in a time when BMW were saying Transmission was sealed for life !!! What they meant was sealed for the length of their Warranty responsibility (60k miles) ZF who manufacture your gearbox recommend service between 60k and 100k km dependent on use and climate Unfortunately if a service doesn't do it then the box will need a rebuild or changing, that wont be cheap either way I would expect a Specialist to charge around £2k + may be as much as £3k to fix it Good Luck Dave

Thank you, Dave.

Grey dog it seems like it is stuck in a higher gear will move but only at like 2000-3000 rpm

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum My guess is whoever you brought the car from has seen this and it scared him into selling (hope it was cheap) How does the car drive ? are changes smooth without the fault? Or is performance restricted (normally car stuck in 3rd gear) The problem could be seals in the mechatronic unit or with the Sleeve gasket where the EGS connects to the box. I would try the simple things first, service the transmission. A Fluid and Filter change and a new sleeve gasket (make sure the Fluid is correct for your box) "Tip" if you are going to service the box make sure you can remove the fill plug first seen a couple that were stuck because they drained the trans then couldn't get the fill plug out. If a fluid service cures it Happy Days if not then it could be an EGS problem or at worst a Trans rebuild Fingers Crossed it is the simple fix Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum If I am right your car has a Blower Motor with inbuilt resistors and a Blower Regulator plus a couple of Temp sensors If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the Heater/AC section. The small exploded drawing should show you where stuff is and where it fits. E series cars often had blower issues with Final Stage resistor failures though I have not seen one on a 7 series and cant say how easy or not they are to change Hope this helps Dave Good luck

I bought a 2006 bmw x5 with some issues main one being the transmission failsafe program. The guy I got it from said it didn't do it to him till he changed the calipers. But I have changed the battery the alternator and it's still doing the same thing what else can I look at. Here are the codes my scanner gave me P17f6 P17e1 I am at a loss

Dave Thank you so much for your advice, I have checked the voltages with my ancient, analogue, meter and they appear to be in line with your numbers. I’ll get my son-in-law to bring his digital one round but it’s comforting to know that at the moment the battery is ok. Reckon I’ll still be ordering the charger though. Thank you again. Stuart

Wow, where was the bulge? I've never experienced those issues with a bulge on the tyre and had them on the inside and outside.

Yes, I've knocked a few weights off cleaning the wheels, one even came off using the wheel brush. Annoying to say the least.

I have a 7 series F01 2017 730D the blower fan starts runs for about 10 seconds then turns off. I scanned it with my AUTEL and got the following IHKA (integrated automatic heating and A/C system 801207 Blower output stage: open circuit detected in load circuit is this a common thing, easy fix I can do myself or expensive workshop repair? my car stands for weeks at a time its not used daily as I have my work van, so the battery seems low when starting could this be part of the problem I know theses car can get gremlins because of low voltage it looks like the original battery that it was built with, is it worth changing that first? any help would be great.

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings A quick look at www.realoem.com shows your battery should be 70ah AGM. I believe you will find a +Positive post covered with a Red plastic protector and Negative connection on the nearside inner wing for Charging connection, Ctec Chargers are all I have used for more than 20 years they are brilliant. If you have a Volt Meter or can borrow one test voltage at rest (engine off ignition off) at the charge points it should be 12.5v. Engine running voltage checked at the same place should indicate 14.5 +v for a healthy charge If you have access to diagnostics you can also check via the OBD port Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Thank you, and the same to you. Yes, the battery is under the bonnet and well hidden (why?!) so I must assume it is an AGM as I cannot access it to see. I can use the + and - to charge as the 12v is not constantly live unfortunately. I just wondered if anyone had a similar situation but think I will proceed with my first thoughts and invest in the appropriate Ctek.

….. ah! How old is the car? I see newer models have the battery located under the wiper scuttle panel. It will still have the jumping / charging points under the bonnet

Sorry Stuart, Happy new year. The battery is located on the boot on the 1 series I believe. There are charging points under the bonnet. A positive is usually under the red flap and a negative looks like a large bolt head. Please correct me if I’m wrong.