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….. ah! How old is the car? I see newer models have the battery located under the wiper scuttle panel. It will still have the jumping / charging points under the bonnet

Sorry Stuart, Happy new year. The battery is located on the boot on the 1 series I believe. There are charging points under the bonnet. A positive is usually under the red flap and a negative looks like a large bolt head. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Apologies if this is in the wrong forum, I have posted in the Series 1 but despite many views I have no replies and I am keen to hear from anyone who can help. I’m a new (6 months) BMW owner, it’s only taken me 50+ years! I was surprised to find that the battery is hidden away under the bonnet so identifying it is not easy. I believe it will be an AGM due to the start/stop ability of the car. The reason I ask is that my mileage is low and I am concerned that it will not be charging sufficiently. I am thinking of getting a trickle charger - Ctek - specifically for an AGM battery as I understand that a “normal” charger may deliver too much of a charge initially and in any case the specific Ctek one will limit the full charge to 14.5v I believe. I was hoping to charge via the 12v socket but I think that is not constantly live and so will have to connect to the battery. Any advice or comments would be appreciated greatly thank you.

Hi Nichola Welcome to the Forum and Happy New Year As far as I recall there are two parts a narrow tray and the lifting section. Just a thought does your car have rear seat adjusters if they have been moved that could be your problem Hope that is the fix Dave

Hi, my husband has recently bought a used x1.. I took the parcel shelf bits out to go on holiday (he was away at the time) and now when I’ve tried to get them back in, they don’t fit. It’s like there’s a piece missing……what am I doing wrong? I am usually good with stuff like this but I just cannot fathom out why it doesn’t fit? There are only two parts to the parcel shelf aren’t there?

Hi Dave, happy new year to you also, thank you for information, I’m sure it will be sorted

Even if the steering wheel isn't trembling, the wheels could still need to be balanced. To be safe, I would start with a wheel balance and also inspect the suspension and tires.

When it cuts out like that, especially quickly, it's a terrible feeling. Well done for persevering and ultimately figuring out the cause. Hopefully, the new injectors will resolve the issue so you may resume enjoying the X5 stress-free.

Morning Stephen Happy New Year As the Dealer has accepted responsibility and is offering a courtesy car while repairs are carried out you are in the hands of their Insurers not your own. So If their insurers say like for like your OK, if they say "a courtesy car" it will be pot luck. My own Dealership is using mainly EV Mini's at the moment. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum A bit more information if you can, what are the symptoms exactly ? You have had a lot of work done and parts changed has the EMF control Module been checked/changed ? Has the EMF actuator been checked/changed ? I assume all suspension parts and wheel bearings have bee checked ? Tyres are they all the same make and wear rate ? Sorry about more questions than answers Happy New Year Dave

My X3 had a recall due to starting motor being changed and was offered a free vacuum and car wash which I took them up on , however the BMW dealership that did the work damaged the boot , long story short it needs a new boot which the dealer is going to fund , what’s my rights for a like for like courtesy car they said no guaranties , any thoughts , thank you for reading IMG_1608.mov

BMW M Sport Coupe - Satin Black 78,000 miles Cream leather interior in great condition, no rips or tears. Drives beautifully - smooth handling, quick acceleration, and excellent on fuel. Recently had a full MOT and service (June 2025) and runs perfectly with no mechanical issues. M Sport Package - Heated Full Leather Seats - Cruise Control - Steering Controls - Automatic with Paddle shifters - Low mileage for its age Swansea, UK

I’m a new (6 months) BMW owner, it’s only taken me 50+ years! I was surprised to find that the battery is hidden away under the bonnet so identifying it is not easy. I believe it will be an AGM due to the start/stop ability of the car. The reason I ask is that my mileage is low and I am concerned that it will not be charging sufficiently. I am thinking of getting a trickle charger - Ctek - specifically for an AGM battery as I understand that a “normal” charger may deliver too much of a charge initially and in any case the specific Ctek one will limit the full charge to 14.5v I believe. I was hoping to charge via the 12v socket but I think that is not constantly live and so will have to connect to the battery. Any advice or comments would be appreciated greatly thank you.

Excellent explanation. A lot of the anxiety about DPF and EGR concerns is greatly reduced by real-world instances such as yours. Frequent maintenance and safe driving practices have a significant impact. I appreciate you sharing your story.

Morning Peter Most tyre places will write off the tyre if Goo has been used even if the puncture is in a repairable place and your quite right they hate the cleaning it needs That was one reason for me moving to the plug system simple to use and a permanent repair As said used it more on friends neighbours and family's only once on my current E70 X5 Good luck with the car ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Ali Welcome and Seasons Greetings It could be a sticky or failing Hydraulic cam follower or a sticky Vanos solenoid. Clearly difficult to diagnose without being around the car If you use Cruise Control and feel a lurch when turning it off/disengaging it I would suspect the Vanos solenoids Dave

Hi Dave, I had a suspicion it would be you replying to this topic as I saw your name on similar posts! Thanks for the explanation of the potential for damage , must admit that while driving on the flat tyre, especially at low speed I could year complaints from the transmission! I will get the fronts changed to the same type shortly. I have ordered a spare wheel and tyre from what I assume is a breaker in Coventry - not enough tread but hopefully enough to get us home. Also a jack and wheel brace. Will let you know how I get on. I had heard about the goo but thought I heard that tyre fitters thought it a nuisance?

Hi all, I'm in need of some advice about a ticking/rattle noise and wondered if anyone else had experienced this? BMW 1 Series Convertible, 52000 Miles, 2009 The car has just had a new fuel pump (low pressure, in the tank) and NOx Sensor fitted and new plugs and coil packs to fix a slow and long start up. Timing chain and tensioner also replaced in the last 5000 miles. I have now noticed a (louder than normal) ticking/knocking sound coming from the engine. Possibly because the cowling and covers are off at the moment (?) as the coil packs have just been replaced. Noticeable throughout the rev range. If I rev to about 3000rpm and then take my foot off the peddle the sound disappears momentarily but continues again as soon as at idle or accelerating. No loss of power - and very smooth running! Only fault code is for the thermostat, but no noises in that area! I shall take it to my local BMW specialist when they reopen in the new year, but just wondering if anyone had experienced this issue before. Ali

Well spoken, Dave. I've observed the same thing with prolonged service intervals: if minor seepages are ignored for a longer period of time, they grow into larger issues. Without the main dealer price tag, a competent independent BMW specialist can typically determine if the problem is actually a turbo or merely a seal.

I agree. I've also used a square configuration in the winter and found it to be very effective, particularly in the snow. In addition to making life easier, going a little narrower with the appropriate offsets typically results in cost savings.

Morning Peter Seasons Greetings and Welcome to the Forum First point to make is as your car is X drive it is important that all 4 tyres are the same make and rolling radius. If the front and rear tyres or across axels vary by 5 or 6mm in diameter it will cause Transfer case wind up and possible problems. Make a chalk mark on the bottom of a rear tyre and same on the front on a flat surface roll the car forward 2 or 3 wheel revolutions both chalk marks should still be pointing in the same place. If they aren't driving any distances is a risk of Transfer case damage. That's the possible bad news out of the way 😁Changing to Non Run Flat tyres is going to allow a greater choice and price of tyre, the X5 with staggered rims has had no spare for years particularly if it was a 7 seat option. BMW supplied a small compressor and tyre Goo. I upgraded the Tyre Goo to a Plug Kit in around 2004/5. I have owned and run X5's since 2002 as one of my hobbies is shooting my X5's get properly Off Road where some ruts and holes may swallow anything smaller 😅 In all that time I have used the compressor and repair kit 3 or 4 times happy to tempt fate and say only once on my own tyre the other times friends and neighbours. With my own repair it was obvious just looking around the tyre a screw sting out was easy to see. Pull it out push in the plug kit and cut it off level with the tread connect the compressor and pump up the tyre, the repair worked until all 4 tyres were changed. I have recently changed the compressor for a combined Jack/Compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter (make sure the engine is running) and make sure you have a good wheel wrench. Good Luck Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Not sure where you are but if your in the UK you could talk to ECU Testing or Cartronix to see if they could help. I take it you have searched for a second user Speedo or Binnacle ? That gives 2 possibilities strip it to get the part you want or swap the lot, you may need a Diagnostic like BMW 1.4.0 to register a changed unit and correct mileages Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings I would guess that if your seeing 10v at the signal wire then either (a) the sensor is toast (b) there is a short in the wiring loom to test at the DME you will either need to trace the signal wire back or get your hands on a Pin Out for the DME. I have seen corroded pins at the DME but that normally shows as no signal I assume you have checked the Crank sensor ? What Diagnostic system are you using Dave

Does anyone know who can repair my E23 milometer, i have purchased various repair kits, but they don't contain the specific gear i require.