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Didn't even know they did an X8. Look good in the gold though. Starting price??£££££

Morning Boreas Welcome to the Forum As an old engineer I have never been a fan of extended oils changes which just about all Manufacturers have advocated since the early 1990's around the same time the use of plastics for chain guides also became common along with simplex chains instead of duplex. With extended oil services (sometimes 30k) all these things have lead to chain stretch and guide wear BMW engineers didn't help themselves by moving timing chains to the rear of the engine ??? Common issues I have heard of are (1) Chain Stretch my feeling is this is avoidable if frequent oil changes are carried with good quality oil. While stretch is going to happen it can be delayed and top chains can be split and changed in situ. (2) Chain tensioner failure is often confused as chain stretch so fitting a new tensioner (around £30) with an annual Oil and Filter change I believe is good practice. (3) Chain Guides these are plastic and will always wear over time and use but regular oil changes with good quality Oil and Filters will help extend their life My brother inlaw runs 5 series and is on his 5th as he has a business based in Holland he travels extensively in Europe and all his cars have exceeded 200k one 300+ they have also all been ECU tuned from new, they have all been 6 cylinder models and Oil is changed every 5k religiously His current car is a 540d xDrive with well over 400hp he also uses the cars to their full and has had no chain issues. All the 1 series engines 3 cylinder 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder now have the chain at the rear, so if there is any noise, misfires or misfire codes on a diagnostic scan walk away ( unless you are able to DIY). If mileage is low and service history is good with evidence of at least annual oil and filter changes the risk is low, my first job would be an oil and filter change with the tensioner Hope this lengthy post helps not hinders Dave

I am new to this forum but not new to BMW as I have owned a superb phase 2 Z4 I am contemplating a 1 Series Convertible however have heard of timing chain problems with this models' engine which is an engine out repair Can I have views please, is it likely to be age or mileage related and how likely a problem. Thanks in anticipation.

Had same thought re, LHD. I'll explore the made up cable idea. Cheers

Hi Dave, welcome. When my x5 cable broke, I had a bit of a mare as some cables were lhd specific. The bonnet release lever was only listed by bmw as a lhd part number. Go to the local dealership and ask the parts man for the rhs specific one as the codes can be one digit out. I used to own a bike shop and we used to sell a lot of tandem brake cables with solderless nipples to the Vespa lads as throttle cables. It’s worth asking the local bike shop. Gear cables or pear ended brake cables fit in the black cable joint on mine.

Thanks Dave, much appreciated.

Best of both worlds, AC and soft top :) I'll check out the link, thanks

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum In my long car owning history I have never been a convertible fan in fact both my X5's don't even have sun roofs 😅Air Con rules for this old bloke. Having said that I just did a quick general search on ISTA parts section and from what I can see you may need the complete release mechanism ?? When you brought the parts did you use www.realoem.com and your Vin number ? Dave

Thanks. I had a similar thought. Thanks. Dave

You can get one made to the original length (or even slightly shorter/longer) Go to motorcycle shop (old school one) or even pushbike shop and get a brake or throttle cable and you can fit an end to suit the latch, etc

Newbie here and tearing my hair out. 2012 1 series 118d cabriolet. Hood latch rusted and stuck, local mechanic got hood open and removed latch. He said cable was a bit knackered, So ordered new latch and cable. Latch fine, but cable clearly wrong, too short, though I ordered allegedly correct part. Of course it is 2 piece but only tried to fit front part, nowhere near. Old cable is too long, but works ish , so I wonder if someone previous had similar problem. Every supplier I have looked at (any) seems to offer what I have already got ie too short. So I am flummoxed. Any ideas. Rgds, Dave

Thank you! Let your mates know about it please 🙏

Thanks Trevor Try as I might I just cant get the mpg over 42.2 - I'm sure on the return of the first journey we managed 42.9 Make no mistake, no complaints...only that we paid Euro 1.53 litre in Greece and Euro 2.00 in France... That car will get us from Ancona to Essex on two tanks!

Hello Trevor, thanks reply and very good point - we put the X3 through main dealer for a full check and diagnostic for peace of mind. Initially they suspected an oil leak from gearbox or engine. They gave the engine and gearbox a jet wash and said come back in 500 miles. No sign of any leak. Still looks clean and dry almost five years later. We put a new set of CrossClimate2 on for the winter treks down to Greece. We would only end up doing that again! A decent power wash of the underside and replace any sensor/brake hoses looking a bit aged is definitley on the to do list.

I have found some information, the flywheel does not require timing as the ECU measures the reluctor so my remaining issue is the crankshaft holding tool alignment.

Morning I am now back to doing my car I cannot find any way of locking the flywheel I have searched YouTube the last couple of evenings, the reason is I have the engine at TDC, marks on the camshafts facing up, dots on rear of sprockets aligned and the fuel pump marks aligned however the timing mark on the flywheel is at 5 o clock not 12 as on social media and the crank holding tool does not align with the dowel it is 6 mm out Auto data does not give any solution. Does anyone have an answer I think it’s incorrectly timed as the crank holding tool is out of alignment but even adjusting this won’t bring the flywheel to 12

Morning Kevin The Star mark for BMW approved Tyres is more relevant to cars with 4 wheel drive it ensures that 4 tyres of the approved size from that manufacturer will have rolling radius that match the AWD system requirements and not cause damage to the drive train. Most Marques who have AWD have similar tyre requirements. If your 435 does not have AWD (X drive) using tyres of the correct size but not star marked is far less of a problem As an Aside I have Hankook tyres on my X5 E70 (non run flat) as they are far quieter than the Michelin run flats it came with Dave

Thanks Trevor, will do.

That's a fine car for the money, I reckon it shouldn't take long to sell

It sounds like it is worth pursuing as you know the car, if you sell it and get something else you will need to go through the same process all over again, that's my belief anyway....only you can decide which way to go

Glad to hear the part worked and you managed to complete your journey. great return on the MPG by the way :-)

Hi Kevin, A lot of tyre sites now list the db noise emitted from each of the tyres, so this may influence your choice. As for suitability for use on the BMW then I would chat with some of the companies and satisfy yourself that a brand change is the way forward

Morning Rav To try and answer your questions in order If communication is disrupted it certainly would cause the re-flash to fail Haven't you got a Wiring Diagram in ISTA ? I believe your car has the Flexray Bus system normally very reliable but the terminal connectors can fail I have read but not had one to play with. I believe the Diagnostic Connector is linked to the FEM and DME by the D-Can and KL30 - KL15 links (Check ISTA for terminal locations mine were in the boot on the drivers side) I have made up several short connection leads with a pin connector on one end (1 male and 1 female) with a crocodile clip on the other. I can then test each pin individually following the wiring diagram Dave

Hi Dave, Thank you and for the prompt response! And this would've been caused by a failed flash you recon ? as seems to unlucky to be a coincidence haha. Where can I find the bus system ? tried searching for a diagram for my f32 but couldn't seem to locate. FEM (Passenger Footwell) to DME continuity was on my list, struggling though to reach each end with my multimeter due to location. Do you recommend a specific tool and also worried to pierce each wire, unless you know of a better way ? Thanks, Rav

I've had my F36 for almost 9 years now and have always run it on Bridgestone Potenza S001 tyres as that what it came on (I bought it with 10,700 miles on it, now has 84,000) but the are noisy. I'm thinking of changing to Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymetric 6's which seem offer a quieter ride. Has anyone done this and, if so, has it been successful? Are they approved with the * mark for BMW? All comments gratefully received. Cheers Kevin