Latest Posts

I would look at systems like i-Carsoft V3 Foxwell 510, but the best and most comprehensive is ISTA. I have seen all of these on the Bay and Amazon for between £100 and £150 Do a google search for BMW Diagnostic software, Good Luck Dave

If the splice has been repaired properly, there are K-can High (Orange/Green trace) and K-can Low (Green) both need doing then it should clear , I know I have done a few. Then you have the Chassis Can (ICM) which has its own can High and can Low, the DSC has PT-can links High and Low Then common sense dictates you have an issue with other K-can splices there are several in the Main Loom floor level and under the dash I would either check myself or find a another Garage bearing in mind this is the garage that has taken £1000 of your money every time telling you "this will fix it". If you can't be bothered yourself get an Auto Electrician as all your doing is throwing money at it/them. It really isn't that complicated Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's your car and money just go back to your very first post and see the answer/advice given Dave

Hi Cliff I believe you are spot on if there is no dealer code it wasn't a BMW Dealer so you have no proof other than an entry on the infotainment that it was done unless there a receipts with the paperwork As for brakes the problem comes from use eg. A high mile motorway warrior will cover huge distances between brake use/application so needing a change where as a School run car may use its brakes much faster, for me physical inspection is the only way Dave

Afternoon Dave, Thanks indeed fort the great forum and the quick very informative reply. If you add a "0" to the price of the motors you arrive at the quote we had from BMW - so that is going in the bin. I'd seen a couple of videos a while back and thought it might be more than I'm happy to bite off and chew, but I will get some tools as you suggest and see how painful the trim removal is for my rather Clarksonesque skill set.. For my info, is the spindle drive the entire ram and I will be simply switching those over/is there anything more complex on the electricals/does anything need to be re-programmed when the new spindles are plugged in? Thanks again for the reply - much appreciated. All best GAH

Morning Jim A Seat owned by a neighbours wife from new but only used for school run duties was completely clogged at lower miles than yours. Predictably the Dealer said new Turbo new EGR and a swathe of other parts £££, a local Diesel specialist stripped, cleaned and rebuilt everything and gave her the advice to give the car a good run at motorway speeds once a month. Years ago my son had issues with his Toyota pickup the dealer mechanic told him an "Italian Tune Up" (engine up to temp and keep revs over 2.5k for half an hour) needs doing every few weeks. As a Tree Surgeon he tended to be trundling around off road at slow speeds and low revs. With luck it's just the actuator mechanism Dave

Hi there. I have had exactly the same issue with 2021 X30E and firstly BMW were absolutely awful ( same as you with denying and getting out of doing anything) then when I went to main dealer all they wanted was money (£1,200) as per your experience. Found a brilliant EV specialist who after full fault identification replaced 2 cells ( £3,600 still hurting) but less than £16,000 BMW main dealer quoted….ive had BMWs for 30 years, not any more, cars are built to a cost, bmw themselves are disgustingly dismissive and the main dealers just try get money from you, no interest in helping. It’s a shame….

Anyone selling a E30 Touring? Pref Black.

Hi Darren Think about how much you have saved at Main Dealer hourly rates 😁 Plus the satisfaction of a job well done Modern cars not designed to be DIY friendly 😅 the cynic in me thinks it is a ploy to drive us towards the dealer network. They will probably tell us they would never do that, yeah right 🤣 Well done Dave

Could also be a stuck idle control valve. Remove it and give it a shake… it should click clack noise opening freely.

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo Dave

@phill Thompson How did you get on with the Z3 - did you buy it ?

Bmw 635d soft top for sale 85000 miles on clock

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave

Frank Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper??? If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD That's the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used purchase History History History Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣 Dave

Thanks Dave It's going back in tomorrow. They say it may be a poor alignment issue? But will check. Sorry they had said to me it was a control.arm? It can move very easily and more so when car on plate and off ground. With wheel turned can easily see movement around the bushes. Still they said that's normal. Something is far wrong as the car handles really poorly at higher speeds and cornering. I'll update after it's been checked again 👍

Hi Jose Welcome to the Forum First you really need a diagnostic scan to help here us and you there are several BMW capable systems these day at reasonable cost BMW ISTA/INPA available online Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft the list is getting longer my own X5 E70 had several K-can bus issues which after a lot of head scratching lead me to a BMW cable jointing system common on our cars. The joints are not soldered they are twisted and compressed then covered in a clear plastic sleeve. As you have suffered water ingress I would start in the Boot/Trunk under the floor starting at the rear right below the rear fuse board you will find the main Loom it runs along the rear of the car towards the battery hidden in it are several of these joints (pictures attached) The dark stain inside the clear plastic is corrosion with my car several of these joints just fell apart. I ended up remaking and soldering all the joints in the pictures the sealing them with shrink wrap. Once done I could clear all manner of faults that just wouldn't clear before. However as you are also having other issues they may possibly be either junction box and/or footwell module related. Also check the alternator output it may be the voltage regulator is fritzed Hope this helps Dave

Finally remembered to check on this fault! … nearly mot time! Haha sorted the intermittent wiper issue… that was a rain sensor not sensing rain! IMG_3444.mov

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware as long as the replacement is the same part number you should find it plug and play. Even if it requires registration (logging your Chassis number into the replacement unit) ISTA is the tool. Way back 2004/2005 a friends 5 series Footwell Control module failed, the Dealer wanted so much money he was considering scrapping the car!! Dealer told horror stories about cars being Bricked if the unit was swapped and not programmed and you couldn't reprogram used units !! Well it was wrong actually swapping the units over took longer than reprogramming the replacement unit and he still has the car 😁 Since then I have done several for friends and family If you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Once you have the correct part number Google for the best source/price. Then it is the process of removing the faulty unit and changing it. Before all this are you sure it is the IHKA unit not just a sensor or something else. Your friend with ISTA can help confirm if he hasn't already Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum Try disconnecting the battery for 30mins see if that clears things if not it may be an issue with the Dab antenna a Diagnostic scan may well show up any issues there Dave

Glad your almost up and running The x5's don't like not being used they sulk 🤣 Remember she's 16 so a temperamental teenager 🤣 Dave

That's sad news Stu The Mini and 2nd Generation on X3 require their own software for Diagnostics so BMW 1.4.0 wont touch them I am afraid 1.4.0 is brilliant on I-bus cars but anything BMW after 2005/6 and all Mini variants need INPA or ISTA or one of the more up to date systems from Autel iCarsoft etc Dave