Latest Posts

Hi Dave, thx for quick reply. Unfortunately IDK what a loom is or pins mean. However relays & fuses are all good. Wont be able to get diagnostic done, vehicle is no longer on the road, have insurance on it or runs. Another unfortunate thing is, the closest BMW dealership is 2 hours away and hard to find a garage that will work on a BMW in my surrounding area. I'm all for not getting parts don't need, but to be honest. That's what I did to get vehicle to run 1st time. I just replaced old part no matter if was needed or not. I didn't test any, just got new part. I don't and wouldn't know how to test parts. Making sure was same manufacturer and oem number. I tried this time around too, but I'm on here seeking advice. Thx again

Morning Greydog, thanks for the warm welcome to the group! I do have diagnostic capabilities using Bimmerlink/Code with an OBD adapter. There was a fault present but looking into it it's showing as front right headlight issue and not rear! I'm going to take a look at fuses tomorrow however I know from looking into it there's not a fuse for the headlight itself rather the controller for the whole headlight system and a few other things. I'll also pull out the headlight itself see if there is a bulb, I'm sure they're LED though 😔 Thanks for the reply by the way, I'll keep you updated! James

Morning Sreejith Welcome to the Forum How many miles are on the clock ? What is the general Condition ? These are indicators of where to begin looking. I would start with a Diagnostic scan to understand if there are any underlying control issues, what fault codes are stored? Next both the Inlet and exhaust side need close inspection If you changed the Boost hose did you change both (one from the turbo the other to the inlet manifold) is the Inter cooler in good condition? Is the EGR valve clean and operating condition ? Is the Boost control sensor OK (Diagnostic should tell) Is the Turbo working correctly ? On the Inlet side no leaks all vacuum lines attached and in good condition? Hope this helps Dave

Hi Richard. welcome to the forum. as greydog said, it depends on what you are trying to achieve. my old company motto was ‘nothing is impossible, it just costs a lot more’ a remap and air filter/ exhaust will show a little gain, a low pressure turbo unit will show a fair gain. … a full engine swap will be big gains… but then it’s big brakes and chassis mods too. give us an idea of budget and dreams are and we can go from there! 😜

Hi Thank you for your contribtion to this topic. Your experience is just what I am looking for. Have you kept any invoices regarding this issue and hopefully stating the need for the 'repair' ?

I drive a 2008 320D touring and have a similar car which I am breaking for spares. Most parts now removed and available but shell with V5 also available. Shell still has most of the engine, 6 speed gearbox, rear axle, windscreen and dashboard still fitted. Please let me know if you are interested in anything.

Good morning! My widebodied Z3 is on a W plate (Feb 2000) and it has the 2.0 straight 6 cylinder engine. As far as I know the 4 cylinder was fitted to some of the widebody models (I saw one in a garage recently) but not sure why you would want to go with the 4 cylinder over the 6 cylinder as they are worlds apart and the 6 cylinder will go on forever with makes for a much more exciting drive. Plenty of Z3's on the market at the moment and they are certainly increasing in value so pick one up soon before the prices get out of hand. I would recommend you look very thoroughly at the metalwork as rust is an issue with some, but by the time the widebody Z3 came in, they seem to have sorted a lot of issues. Let us know how you get on with acquiring one and if you need any further info then just let us know.

Morning Frank BMW do like to charge stupid prices🤣 in the UK you can buy a new one with warranty for around £150. 5 minutes to change a used one from £20 to £50 and as said I have not seen a failed one since 2001 (my first X5) Just remember BMW do not make these parts they buy them in. BMW Air suspension is a fairly simple system 2 Fuses a Relay a Control Module a Compressor 2 Ride Height sensors and 2 Air Springs The most common faults are leaks ? Leaking Air Bags. The next is Compressor failure the leak causes the compressor to run far to long and it wears out and can't produce enough pressure to lift a heavy car. Your car is 12 years old so the suspension at an age where it could do with a refresh whether its springs or air. You need to know what the problem is. Is it Suspension going down and not inflating ? Is it compressor not running ? Is the suspension lopsided ? A Scan with BMW capable software would tell you/us more My X5 is 2009 vintage I have just fitted a new compressor as the original was getting tired (over running) £140, with 5 year warranty. Both air Springs £160 with 10 year warranty whole job took me 5 hours on a Saturday morning I don't have a lift so all work was carried out in my home garage. If you cant do the work yourself you will need the help of a mechanic having software that is BMW capable is the only requirement otherwise your guessing Dave

Let me have a wild guess 🤣🤣 Dave

Hi Stephen Have you tried the BMW Specialist Recyclers like Quarry Motors ? Or Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers and try a few Dave

Biu

Thanks so much Dave I have car booked in tomorrow with BMW so will feedback what they say. Many thanks Gary

Probably the best way to handle it. I do like the idea keeping a car totally stock.

You have a "list of jobs" too 🤣 I tried confusing her by starting at the bottom I thought if she saw ticks near the bottom 😅 Top tip it didn't work 🤣

Morning Qualityking Welcome to the Forum More information would help Which style ? If I recall there are 7 or 8, 17" options. What colour ? Dave

Morning Callum Welcome to the Forum All things are possible you would of course need all the parts plus the ability to programme them to your car. The simplest would be like for like swap First do an Internet search to see if anyone else has done it if someone has it would make your life easier Good Luck Dave

And me I’d love to see a photo of it now . It was the car I wish I never got rid of after all the work I put into it

I think my X5 was built by the same man….. same loom, same year, same car… different wiring and colours!

Morning Steven That sounds fishy to me why would they order a Module without talking to you and showing the evidence? and when it doesn't clear the faults who pays for the part and the work?? Based on your pictures (where were they taken) as I say those don't show a Transfer case fault anywhere the code D36A is a communication fault with the DSC? What they do show a whole load of K-can faults (communication system) that is the place to start, get that fixed and the faults cleared. A couple of hours labour max. Then re=scan and you will see where the real issues are, then you can schedule any work, replacement parts etc. Google the Register of BMW Specialists and put in your post code it will show you the nearest ones talk to them before just handing over your car and hard earned find out what their costs are never just hand over your car and wallet Dave

Gave the car to my mate who gratefully took it for his young family. he took it to his local garage and turns out the camshaft timing sensor was clogged up and misreading. I had changed the inlet and outlet cam sensors but not the camshaft sensor. an engine flush and clean, new oil and spark plugs, a good service and it’s off like a scalded cat! Cost wise it was about £300 to sort. happy days!

Got to bring it to mechanic i use all the time ....showed him 'report' ...he just started laughing ...he has seen same thing twice already in last 6/9 months with other bmw owners coming from SAME main dealer !!!!!!! guessing they must have surplus damper pulley stock ......

Hi I might know some info , are we talking about the e30 touring or f31 touring?

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Bit confused your post says transmission fault yet you ask about key cutting?? Am I missing something as you say the car drives well If it is a new or spare key the simplest way is to contact your main dealer and part with some hard earned Dave

Morning Stewart There is a drain plug in the bottom of the rad or simply pop off the bottom hose. The hoses have an "O" ring seal held by a spring clip, if you prize up the spring clip you can wiggle the hose off have a big tub/bowl to catch the coolant Dave