Greydog

Hi Darren Think about how much you have saved at Main Dealer hourly rates 😁 Plus the satisfaction of a job well done Modern cars not designed to be DIY friendly 😅 the cynic in me thinks it is a ploy to drive us towards the dealer network. They will probably tell us they would never do that, yeah right 🤣 Well done Dave

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo Dave

Morning JIm If memory serves your car has twin turbo's a small one for low/mid range and the bigger one below for mid/top end boost. The vacuum drive shifts boost to the larger turbo, so when you felt for any wobble which turbo were you feeling? and which side remember the exhaust side really does take a battering. From your description the Vacuum drive is working but the flap it operates into the large turbo or the turbo it's self needs some investigating Those are my thoughts Dave

Morning Ronald Welcome to the Forum First it would be unlikely the a Starter would cause this fault code as the starter is underneath and the issue you have is at the top. A fault code indicates a problem it isn't necessarily the cause, start by looking for leaks in any of the Vacuum lines and hoses on the Inlet side after 13 years the hoses on your car will quite probably be dry and cracked in places. Also check all wiring and plugs if cleaning use a good electrical contact cleaner. The replacement you brought, is it correct for your model ? As an after thought check the engine mounts I am not sure whether your mounts have a vacuum link Dave

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Morning Tino I don't think they use a different Can protocol as Dealers still need to communicate with BMW from time to time and we know how the German mind like s to be in control 🤣 The Can protocol should be D can. Wiring Diagram shows 2.0i 2007 on as Pins 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 all populated colours as follows 3, Red 4, Brown 5, Brown/black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 8, Blue/Yellow trace 9, Black 11, Blue/Red trace 12, Green 13, Red/Green trace 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace My wiring diagrams for the 2.8i are exactly the same. Pre 2007 (2004 up to 2007) It shows Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 16 populated Wire colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace Just found another Diagram marked 2007 only shows pins 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 16, colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 16, Red/Yellow trace (not sure if this helps or hinders) Again as far as I am aware Left and Right hand cars are the same If it is JBE issues they are easy to swap but will need a Diagnostic scan capable of registering the replacement (I have INPA/ISTA) BMW make a big deal of it (can only be done by them) but as always it can be done I have changed a few Footwell modules and Junction boxes Good Luck Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum Best case check the Rocker cover Vent pipe easy to replace Worst case Cylinder Head Cover gasket needs replacing Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the Search box it will bring up your Model Then in Engine look the Cylinder head cover. Use the part numbers to make sure you get the correct parts The job is a DIY proposition but there is a huge amount of trim and engine bay bracing to take off before you get near the nitty gritty 😅 Top tip take pictures so you make sure it all goes back where it's meant to. Tools needed a good socket set (3/8 and 1/4 drive) trim clip removal set and buckets of patience 😁 I believe there are a couple of good videos on You tube that should help Good Luck Dave

Morning Tino You really do like a challenge buddie 😅 First I remember reading somewhere that the Japan cars didn't take Bluetooth OBD readers don't know for sure as I have never worked on one. My wiring diagram doesn't show anything specific for Japan ? 1st pic above my wiring diagram shows Pin 16 red/yellow trace Pin 6 white/yellow trace (D can H) Pin 14 white/blue trace (D can L) Pin 4 brown Pin 5 brown/black trace Pin 3 Red Pin 11 blue/red trace Pin 8 Blue/yellow trace Pin 12 Green Pin 13 Orange/green trace Pin 9 Black I am thinking Pin 3 Live pin 16 shows a 5amp fuse The diagrams I have 2007/2009 and 2009 on both seem to be the same Hope this makes sense Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave

Frank Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper??? If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD That's the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used purchase History History History Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣 Dave

Hi Jose Welcome to the Forum First you really need a diagnostic scan to help here us and you there are several BMW capable systems these day at reasonable cost BMW ISTA/INPA available online Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft the list is getting longer my own X5 E70 had several K-can bus issues which after a lot of head scratching lead me to a BMW cable jointing system common on our cars. The joints are not soldered they are twisted and compressed then covered in a clear plastic sleeve. As you have suffered water ingress I would start in the Boot/Trunk under the floor starting at the rear right below the rear fuse board you will find the main Loom it runs along the rear of the car towards the battery hidden in it are several of these joints (pictures attached) The dark stain inside the clear plastic is corrosion with my car several of these joints just fell apart. I ended up remaking and soldering all the joints in the pictures the sealing them with shrink wrap. Once done I could clear all manner of faults that just wouldn't clear before. However as you are also having other issues they may possibly be either junction box and/or footwell module related. Also check the alternator output it may be the voltage regulator is fritzed Hope this helps Dave

Morning Gary Sorry chum never heard of spring loaded suspension bushes before. A couple of points (1) there are no upper control arms on the front of your car? There are Front and Rear bushes on the lower wishbone at the top there is the strut mount. (2) Your rear suspension has upper front and rear control arms the front control arm allows suspension adjustment by the use of an eccentric bolt. So if you have a car which pulls to one side something is clearly not right at only 17k, are all the tyres the same make and tread pattern? are they correctly inflated? are the brakes binding (is one hotter after a run)? The supplying garage has a legal requirement to make the car suitable for purpose, tell them you want it fixed or you will reject the car and ask for your money back. Write to them outlining when the issue was first raised with them and the amount of visits to try and cure the issue tell them it is not acceptable and if they cannot fix it you will have no alternative but to reject the car under the sale of goods act. Good Luck Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware as long as the replacement is the same part number you should find it plug and play. Even if it requires registration (logging your Chassis number into the replacement unit) ISTA is the tool. Way back 2004/2005 a friends 5 series Footwell Control module failed, the Dealer wanted so much money he was considering scrapping the car!! Dealer told horror stories about cars being Bricked if the unit was swapped and not programmed and you couldn't reprogram used units !! Well it was wrong actually swapping the units over took longer than reprogramming the replacement unit and he still has the car 😁 Since then I have done several for friends and family If you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Once you have the correct part number Google for the best source/price. Then it is the process of removing the faulty unit and changing it. Before all this are you sure it is the IHKA unit not just a sensor or something else. Your friend with ISTA can help confirm if he hasn't already Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum Try disconnecting the battery for 30mins see if that clears things if not it may be an issue with the Dab antenna a Diagnostic scan may well show up any issues there Dave

Glad your almost up and running The x5's don't like not being used they sulk 🤣 Remember she's 16 so a temperamental teenager 🤣 Dave

That's sad news Stu The Mini and 2nd Generation on X3 require their own software for Diagnostics so BMW 1.4.0 wont touch them I am afraid 1.4.0 is brilliant on I-bus cars but anything BMW after 2005/6 and all Mini variants need INPA or ISTA or one of the more up to date systems from Autel iCarsoft etc Dave

Morning JC Welcome to the Forum First try the Dealer trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 mins that should clear any faults, if you still get the fault then you need a BMW capable diagnostic system to clear down any fault memory. There are quite a few these days Autel, iCarsoft, and several others Good Luck Dave

Morning Frank I think Bimmerparts only trade through Ebay contact them through ebay and you should get a resolution Your car, is the compressor running but not inflating the airbag ? That is the problem worn out compressor they are around £140 and you can get them from Good Auto Factors or sites like Ebay same with Airbags if you need them about £120 should get 2. I would start with the compressor, on start up does it run until it cuts out and you get the suspension warning on the dash/screen but the car isn't rising? Easy to change a real DIY job Disconnect battery, then under the rear of the car remove the plastic under tray and cover box to expose the compressor. Undo the two airlines remove the electrical plugs then undo the 3 mounting screws, compressor out. Reverse the procedure to put it back don't over tighten the air connectors. slowly lower the car reconnect the battery and the compressor will run and inflate the suspension. About 45 mins work plenty of how too's on the Nett As for BMW specialists I think there are 2 or 3 in the Dublin area just Google them then talk to them Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum The start point is to ensure your engine is in top condition and your car is producing close to it's original power output which I believe is around 215hp, that means a thorough service and rolling road session. Then talk to the ECU tuners don't just go for the biggest claimed increase, how many have they done ? How successful is it and how satisfied are there customers ? do they have a demonstrator? With a good base to start I would expect a good remap should see 25% to 30% gains it is the gain in torque that is the most important, that's what gets you down the road 😁 However remember brakes, suspension and tyres after all if you get there quicker it's nice to know you can stop and steer as quickly Good Luck Dave

Hi James You really should get a copy of BMW 1.4.0 ($20) load it onto a laptop then you would be able to run your own Diagnostic Scan. The idea is you don't need a BMW Dealer to have dealer level diagnostics and the cost is far less than changing parts, it would give you accurate information on where to look If you can hear the fuel pump running is there pressure at the fuel rail? If not there could be a blockage in your long list of stuff changed has the vacuum line to the fuel filter been checked? The Pins are the pins in the electrical connector/plugs a pinout will tell you which pin is connected to which colour wire so you can the test end to end continuity. Clearly if there is a break in a wire or poor connection the problem may be that simple Dave

Morning Giovanni Welcome to the Forum Your transmission is made by ZF it is for the protection of the transmission ZF advise service at between 60k and 100k (depending on environment and use) or 5 years. Having owned 4 BMW X5's all with ZF transmissions 5 speed, 6 speed and like yours 8 speed. My thoughts are why cut corners when the gearbox is likely to have only one or two services in the time I own it and genuine ZF Fluid and Filters will set you back around £250/£300 the same applies for the Transfer Box and Diffs. I have seen alternate Fluid kits available that may save around £100 but as a rebuild is anything from £2000 up personally I wouldn't risk it. Having said that I do know someone who used a Luiquid Moly Fluid kit in his Jaguar (same Box) and so far so good Hope this helps Dave

Morning Frank As I said they don't normally break, that's why there are so many for sale second user. I still have an Instinct/Doubt it is your issue, if your compressor runs but isn't lifting the car properly that is where I would start. Again get the part number this time you won't find any second user just refurbished or New I hope it fixes things be great if it did let us know Dave

Hi James If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look at Lights section. You should be able to see what you need and get an idea of how it goes together. If you need parts you will have the Part numbers then just Google them to get the best price It was the rear unit I wondered if the indicator was a Bulb (it is on the E70) Dave