Greydog

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum Are the mirrors folding or is it the glass position and heater? Is it actually the mirror or the loom shorting ? At 35 it wouldn't be unusual for insulation to become brittle Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum That's the main reason that I changed to an Android based system a couple of years ago one of my sons did the same last month I now have a system that connects to my home wifi whenever parked outside the house and automatically updates all apps. Sat Nav is now Tom Tom but also have Here we Go and Google maps on the system, as well as Android Auto, Car Play, Spotify the list is long. Cost for my son was £250 mine 2 years ago was less than £200. They look OEM plus we both still have access to all the cars radio, CD, and the cars maintenance settings win win Dave

Try websites like "How many left when I looked some years back my E53 4.6is showed 820 registered new between 2002 and 2004 and when I checked 215 still registered most of them Sorn only 80 on the road But you have to remember it is only worth what someone who wants one is prepared to pay Good Luck

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First I would get the replacement that will be let you see how it is fixed. Next removing the old one, I changed both mine a couple of years back due to fading. The boot one had some sort of glue/mastic under it. I used my heat gun on a low setting to soften everything up then masked around it to prevent scratches and prised it off with a plastic trim remover took quite a bit of levering Hope this is useful Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum It could be a number of things you need a Diagnostic Scan to tell you more It could be anything from a Gear selector switch to a Service on the box needed and several things in between Dave

Morning Cornel Most Main Dealers are North of £200 per hour Google the register of BMW Specialists they are normally ex BMW Tech's and will have all the Kit and Knowledge you need more important their Hourly rates are around half the Main Dealer's same applies to ZF Trans Specialist's I have always serviced my own cars (hobby) and my wife thinks it's safer than me helping in the garden 😁 I did my X5 earlier this year I brought genuine a ZF service kit £190 OEM Transfer case fluid £70 front and rear diffs £80 total £340 The transfer case on an E70 is a Faff as BMW decided to hide the drain plug behind the Transfer box support cradle but once I worked it out it went well, whole job took me a morning with coffee and biscuits Dave

Great little cars Stu A neighbour has one and she loves it they do need a good annual service though, seen several that were unreliable due to not being used much and waiting for the service indicator to tell them it needed service? One was 5 years between services? You will also need a good code reader Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum As it isn't a BMW Part I am not sure there will be help here, unless a member on here has come across the same issue Maybe Google to see if there is a Harmon Kardon Forum to see if they have more information Good Luck Dave

Morning Cornel Welcome to the Forum Your Gearbox is ZF GA8HP45Z which I believe ZF advise should be serviced every 60 to 100000 km dependent on environment and use (Climate Towing etc) If you feel like teasing your local BMW Dealer service manager ask him if it's sealed for life why do BMW have a gearbox service kit on their parts list 😅 Transfer case is ATC 35L Personally if it is running well and at the low miles you have it isn't an urgent priority. 12 years is a stretch I would look for a good Independent or better a ZF Transmission Specialist if you can't DIY Dave

Morning Luis Welcome to the Forum You can check by using a BMW Vin decoder website put in your Vin number and it will bring up the build sheet for your car. If the car is Bluetooth equipped you will find either SA633 or SA644 codes, if they are there then the car is Bluetooth equipped. Two things will stop it working (1) The Bluetooth memory is full 4 phones I think. (2) the Telematics unit in the Boot/Trunk left side is not working If your not seeing a Bluetooth function then it will be the Telematics unit and its antenna. First check the boot area left side if the telematic unit is there unplug it and get the part number from it then use Google to source a replacement If your car was not Bluetooth equipped check the left boot are for a connector taped up in the loom in that area if it is there you may just need the parts. Then if you want it to be OEM use www.realoem.com to get the part numbers and source the equipment, it should be pretty much plug and play. The alternative is an after market Bluetooth kit Dave

Morning Matija Part of the Comfort access system then 😁 If you try www.realoem.com and put in the cars Vin (last 7 digits) it will bring up your model then reach the sections for the correct part and part number, once you have the part double click the part number and you will get a list of any alternatives and models they were used on Great find Dave

Morning Matija Welcome to the Forum It may be part of the CAS (Comfort Access System) but I have never pulled an X1 to bits so it is a guess, It may also be part of the Alarm system or the Fuel Pump Control unit What symptoms are you getting ? or have you found it and wonder what it does ? Dave

Hi Seb Welcome to the Forum First make sure the engine is in Tip Top condition and well serviced (don't forget Transmission and Diff) if it is then you should have no issues. I would ask how many they have done and see if you can talk to other owners Most problems occur when ECU tuning is carried out on a mechanically sad engine and it then gets heavily used, result an engine failure with the tuning blamed. Most issues are heavy right foot is my experience Dave

Sounds a bit like our house Wife Daughter(at least she only visits now) 4 dogs (Female !!) Horses (2 Mares) I have lived my life in a cloud of PMT 😂 You will get used to it 🤣 Always remember it's quieter in the Garage and if someone comes into the garage swear and they clear off 🤣🤣 Always works for me Dave

Morning Kevin In the South East Main Dealer rates are in excess of £200+ p/h even my local Specialist is over £100, I think that is a great incentive to DIY Cars have always been my recreational release and like you I only help Friends and Family Dave

Morning Stu Going back over note's there were a stack of problems in the early E53's with Magneti Marelli starter motors being the culprit try the clamp meter on the starter cable. Also worth checking the Voltage regulator as they can give issues as well Also worth checking that the loom in your boot lid hasn't had a dodgy repair Dave She will misbehave until you get rid of the Porker 🤣

Morning James Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers (Quarry Motors have always been useful). For my E53 4.6is I used a local Carpet Fitter he made up a full set for me all edges trimmed and including non slip velcro patches. He used the OEM mats as patterns and off cuts from a Dark Grey High Quality Wilton carpet he had fitted, cost was less than half OEM gave the car a new smell for ages. Dave

Morning Yvonne Welcome to the Forum Built into the brake pad is a small carbon contact at the point where the Manufacturer of the pads believes they are close to the end of their service life. When it makes contact with the brake disc it triggers the light, which is a warning to change the pads, while your brakes still work in a short time uneven wear can occur which will cause damage to the disc. New pads are around 12mm thick as yours have been measured at 3mm there isn't much left see the chart. It isn't BMW or a Garage trying to squeeze money out of you The MOT I would guess shows the brake pad thickness as an "advisory" all that means they were working on the day of the Test? It doesn't mean they are OK or Safe just that they were OK then. The only things between us and a wall or ditch are Brakes and Tyres for me it is a false economy to ignore the warning, Pads are much cheaper than a new set of Discs and Pads an complete set of Brembo (Top make) pads for your car I would think is around £40 may be a little more plus fitting which should be around 2 hrs max if you can't DIY Dave

Morning Trishul What was it like ? Good turnout ? Dave

Morning Vin Welcome to the Forum As your system is CiC and modular you need a Diagnostic scan to provide us more information Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum The Post is 3 years old and I am not sure if the original poster even still has the car? As said you can check pressure at the Low Pressure side after 15/20mins running anything below 30 psi points to low /no Gas. Most systems loose a little every year particularly if the system is shut down during the winter months as many folks do, the seals dry out and leaks start it's better to use the Climate Control and leave it running. If your topping it up yourself make sure the kit has the correct compressor oil as low compressor oil levels can give issues. If the water control valves are OK and working, the Climate Control unit is functioning correctly, then I would use someone like Kwik Fit to service the AC the systems they use are automatic and pre-programmed it will vac out the system, providing the system holds the vacuum for a measured time (no leaks) it will introduce the correct oil and re-gas the system. I expect to get mine done every 3 to 5 years depending on the car and AC performance Dave Note your car should be Type R134A you can't mix gasses

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Muriel Welcome to the Forum We have seen this here before, BMW say it is caused by condensation in the exhaust at initial start vapour is caused when the exhaust is hot no issue? One guy in Ireland spent a fortune trying to fix it check out the posts if you haven't already Hope this helps Dave

Morning Roger Looks like you need a Torx Socket possibly T10 difficult to say from the picture. Sets are not that expensive and freely available Just BMW expanding your tool kit 🤣 Dave

Morning Jay Welcome to the Forum I have read that Hybrids have very restricted towing capacity so my first thought is I doubt that it will fit. You really need to talk to a Specialist supplier or your Dealer (though the Dealer may not be much help if your planning DIY) From memory BMW OEM suppliers were/are Oris and Westfalia Good Luck Dave