Greydog

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I would check the rear brake back plate I have seen this twice now both time s on E70's of the 2007/8 period To change it is a heap of work (hub dismantled) as the back plate is sandwiched between the brake shoe support plate and the Suspension hub I have cheated and once the disc is off remove the bolts holding the brake back plate and shoe support so it is all loose. Then I managed to change one by cutting it in half to get it off the new one I cut out the section where the Calliper sits then sliding it into place. The Brake shoe support plate and Back Plate are held in place by 4 m6 hex bolts. Still a faff but doable Dave PS. When your in there check all the area in case it is a heat shield loos or something on the driveshaft

Morning Ian In realoem double click the part number and it should show a list of all models that it was used in/on It will also show any alternate part numbers Fingers crossed Dave

Hi Ian Shame it didn't help I think with BMW it has less to do with cost and far more to do with control. I am told that some of the newer models (such as yours) have to be connected to the Dealers diagnostics which in turn are linked to Munich even Dealers have to book a slot. It may be interesting when the USA market challenge "restricted access" it's almost undoubtable they will Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Jack Welcome to the Forum Not good news and although you aren't seeing visible signs, low oil pressure will over time start to reduce oil feed to probably the upper parts of the engine. As your garage found evidence of chain guide wear/brake up it needs investigation. I would start with simple stuff Check/change the Oil Pressure switch just in case it is that simple. The next bit involves dropping the sump to check the Oil Pick up pipe (I have seen one with a split "O" ring seal that gave similar symptoms to yours (flickering oi light at tick over) If the sump is off clean it out and I would change the oil pump tensioner and guide. Hope this is helpful Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum BMW had a Parts Number website and a Technical Information website which for folks like us and independent Garages was a great help as we could find correct part numbers and see what was involved in fitting them. Then in 2019 BMW decided to take down the Technical Information Site and make it Dealer access only the parts website they haven't taken down but the also haven't updated it since 2019 ??? Hey Ho Having said that www.realoem.com is still a massive help I just had a quick look (manual search) and have a part number 51477271174. You can check for yourself Google realoem then either try your Vin in the search box (may not be recognised as the site stops at 2019) or as I did search manually I used F45 Active tourer and searched the Trim section if you double click the Part number you will see a list of other models that it fits or you could use. Then as BMW have been so helpful ?? Look for the best price, don't ignore the local Dealer they are sometimes competitive on price I hope this helps Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum From what I have read the warranty extension on the part is because replacement parts deliveries are so restricted, delayed. I guess BMW have to consider manufacture of cars as well as recall/replacement of faulted parts All a bit of a mess really and poor communication doesn't improve things maybe Angela Ripon's show can help Good Luck Dave

Morning Connah If they are listed in www.realoem.com then you should be able to get them. If not then it is a search of the after market I don't remember seeing them separate (doesn't mean they are not out there) Good Hunting Dave

Morning Paul A wheel bearing normally protests under load when driving (groaning rumbling worse when cornering) CV Joint clicking sound, have you checked the condition of the CV Boots ? As an X5 pilot what condition are the tyres ? Have any or all been changed recently ? If the tyres (even 1) are out of spec Transfer case damage or diff damage can be caused (gives similar symptoms to those you seem to have Dave

So Richard Did your issue get resolved ?? Dave

Morning Connah Welcome to the Forum Not sure what you are trying to achieve here ? If your OEM steering wheel has paddle shifts it should be fairly straight forward swap even though the replacement will probably be Aftermarket. Just make sure you can get support from the seller and they accept returns if it didn't fit If you don't have paddle shifts there is the small issue of how you can get the shift to work, it will involve loom extensions and programming at least. If you just want the competition look and are not worried about the operation then it becomes easier Good Luck Dave

Morning Shawn Other than checking www.realoem.com and the Internet for help, it's not a job I have done but that would be my starting point. Perseverance, patience and practice may help as well 😅 plastic clips are easy to break if they are not spot on with alignment. I buy spares before starting any job that involves taking trim off, try trial fitting the clips off the car gives an idea of alignment and pressure needed I have used a little Washing up liquid as lubricant Good Luck Dave

Yay glad it's sorted Donna just needed the right Tool on the job 🤣 (Been there a few times) Dave

Top Man thanks for the close out to the post

Hi Daniel Welcome to the Forum Your tapping noise could be a number of things from a sticking hydraulic lifter to a failing chain tensioner. What is the service history ? Extended service intervals can cause issues get the Chain tensioner checked/changed would be a starting point Dave

Hi Allan Welcome to the Forum The fact you can hear a hiss sounds like either an air leak (inlet manifold) or a vacuum leak Both will upset running a bit more information what engine diesel or petrol would help Dave

Morning Damien Welcome to the Forum An internet search may give more information particularly the US sites Your BMW Dealer may not have seen it but that doesn't mean its not there. I have also read that the new cars when plugged into the Dealers system now have to be linked to BMW Gmbh They really don't make it easy do they, Technology is great until it stops 😅 Hope they can sort it with a software upgrade or something simple so you can enjoy your car again (sneaking around in silent mode🤣) Dave

You are welcome Danny A BMW Dealer will not repair anything, they just change components at the Customers expense and no regard for cost I would use a BMW Vin Decoder site put the Vin number in and you should get the original build sheet Look at the list of Codes S676A is the basic Hi Fi system S688A is Harmon Kardon S6F1A is Bowers & Wilkins. Then you will know the starting point and will be able to make choices on how you move forward. BMW Designers are good at hiding components in places where they can get flooded, several models over the years have had Nav/Audio in the boot buried under the floor. Plus many of those models had a boot that could become a swimming pool if a seal was damaged or failed so moving your amp out of the danger zone makes sense. As you had the 40 amp fuses melted check the speakers as well as they may have been overloaded For service, help and knowledge there is a Register of BMW Specialists you should find more than one near you most are BMW trained they will have the equipment and Knowledge (one near me specialises in BMW/Porsche) yet is still less than half Dealer labour rates. One of those or an Audio Specialist would be on my list if I couldn't do the job myself. Good Luck Dave

Hi Danny Welcome to the Forum I thought the Amp would be Harmen Becker or Harman Kardon may be Bowers & Wilkins (High end stuff) if it was OEM ? The concern I would have is why the fuses were really, well fused to do that to 40 amp fuses isn't good news. I would have an Audio Specialist look at it if you can't sort it yourself. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model the check the Audio section to see what should be there. Then look at what to fix or change Dave

Absolutely correct my E53 runs 9.5 x 20 Front and 10.5 x 20 Rear and the E70 is as yo say 10 x 20 Front 11 x 20 Rear. Not really necessary on a 4x4 but BMW Designers like the looks 🤣🤣 ( and so do I) Hope you found what you needed Dave

Morning Donna Has the pump always been like this or has it come on over time? I think I would check the voltage at the Pump connectors so you can compare front and rear perhaps swap the connectors. If the pump action changes when the connector is swapped then the wiring needs checking and the connector needs cleaning with a good electrical contact cleaner. Dave

Morning Terry Welcome to the Forum Are they BMW OEM or After Market ? If they are after market then check load capacity (I have read of cracking) and off set to clear callipers, you say 20" x 5 ? Is that studs I hope not width ? or are you looking for a spacer saver spare? If so don't forget the Jack and wheel brace (I know a few who have 😂) If you aren't aware check www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts website put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the wheels/tyres section you will get all wheel sizes including off set Hope this helps Dave

Great feedback Richard I am afraid all cars are becoming gimmicky the designers need to understand that because a Microchip has the capacity you don't need to use it !! As you say some good but an awful lot irrelevant being an old bloke even when I got the 4.6is X5 (2003) it had a reverse camera and sensors. Being my age and having spent many years turning and looking when reversing I had owned the car a fair while when reversing one day a passenger said "thats cool" you have a camera why don't you use it ? The current X5 has camera's and when parking/reversing I still turn to look where I am going 😅 Just stop using the bit's you don't need Most important though ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Knowing the Brake are going to work and the tyres are going to point you where you aimed plus stop you is always a big PLUS 🤣 Now you can drive it like you stole it with confidence 🤣 EHJOY Dave

Hi Donna Welcome to the Forum You have changed just about everything so not much left Is the squirt strong or weak ? When the pump was changed was the filter cleaned or changed ? That leaves either a loose connection (can you hear the pump when it stops squirting) or a Kink in the hose Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ross I would start by checking that all injectors are OK, seated properly and fixed down at the correct torque. If there are no injector or glow plug issues then the valve train needs investigation could be a lifter sticking or a Vanos issue. Dave