All Activity

https://www.ebay.com/itm/205443605161

Hi Seb Welcome to the Forum First make sure the engine is in Tip Top condition and well serviced (don't forget Transmission and Diff) if it is then you should have no issues. I would ask how many they have done and see if you can talk to other owners Most problems occur when ECU tuning is carried out on a mechanically sad engine and it then gets heavily used, result an engine failure with the tuning blamed. Most issues are heavy right foot is my experience Dave

Hi all, New to this but was looking for some advice. I was thinking about remapping my car to stage one. It's a BMW 320i G20 model from 2019 with a B48B20A engine, stock BHP is just 184. Has anyone got any experience with this? Not looking to blow up my engine after 2000 miles. A few companies have quoted a push up to 307bhp from a stage one with no hardware changes. This seems excessive and definitely not reliable - car will likely go boom. Torque is currently around 300 and they are predicting an increase to around 460nm. Will I likely have to use premium fuel after this tune as well? I'm not too sure on any of these things really and advice or pointers would be appreciated, thanks!

Sounds a bit like our house Wife Daughter(at least she only visits now) 4 dogs (Female !!) Horses (2 Mares) I have lived my life in a cloud of PMT 😂 You will get used to it 🤣 Always remember it's quieter in the Garage and if someone comes into the garage swear and they clear off 🤣🤣 Always works for me Dave

Morning Kevin In the South East Main Dealer rates are in excess of £200+ p/h even my local Specialist is over £100, I think that is a great incentive to DIY Cars have always been my recreational release and like you I only help Friends and Family Dave

…. It’s like 3 teenage women in my house now…. problem is… ones in her 40’s… one is 2 and the other is a car! it’s got to be something with the boot wiring, it’s only happened some I changed that. I think I just need time and peace to work out what’s wrong. then open the bonnet though the grilles again! 😂… then who knows!

Thanks. Dread to think what the cost would have been! I’d estimate at least 1.5hrs labour if tank was required to be lowered, no idea what Stealerships hourly rate is. It only took me as long as it did as I was doing on my drive a week after surgery. Worst part was undoing the T60 bolt on rear brace (caused pain in site of surgery) Used to be £65 P/H at a main agent Ford stealership where I worked some 22yrs ago, no idea what current labour rates are as I do (selective) work myself on occasions. No longer do private work, only immediate family cars (Wife/Son/Daughter’s mk8 Fiesta/Toyota GT86/2015 Mini)

Only selling as have replaced with a 2021 M135i xdrive

It’s manual 150k miles, I have owned this car since 2012, immaculate

Can someone help me, whats the name or number of this part. I cant find it. Its located in the side wall off the beck seat.

Morning Stu Going back over note's there were a stack of problems in the early E53's with Magneti Marelli starter motors being the culprit try the clamp meter on the starter cable. Also worth checking the Voltage regulator as they can give issues as well Also worth checking that the loom in your boot lid hasn't had a dodgy repair Dave She will misbehave until you get rid of the Porker 🤣

Morning James Google the Register of BMW Dismantlers (Quarry Motors have always been useful). For my E53 4.6is I used a local Carpet Fitter he made up a full set for me all edges trimmed and including non slip velcro patches. He used the OEM mats as patterns and off cuts from a Dark Grey High Quality Wilton carpet he had fitted, cost was less than half OEM gave the car a new smell for ages. Dave

Hi all, I bought a 2020 G31 a month ago and I’d like to replace at least the driver’s floor mat or all of them. I do like the OEM ones but don’t want to pay full price from BMW for replacements. What other options has anyone used? I do like how they have the Velcro patches on the reverse so ideally any alternatives would have the same. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I’ve purchased 3rd party mats for other vehicles in the past and have always been disappointed. Thanks again.

Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated. I've booked the car in at my local garage.

Well… clamp meter found nothing… I have removed the fuses for the wiper, heater and disconnected the interior lights on the bootlid. I still have a drain somewhere. I just removed the plug on the rear wiper and now the car external temp says it’s -35! ….. and the bonnet cable has snapped again!

Morning Yvonne Welcome to the Forum Built into the brake pad is a small carbon contact at the point where the Manufacturer of the pads believes they are close to the end of their service life. When it makes contact with the brake disc it triggers the light, which is a warning to change the pads, while your brakes still work in a short time uneven wear can occur which will cause damage to the disc. New pads are around 12mm thick as yours have been measured at 3mm there isn't much left see the chart. It isn't BMW or a Garage trying to squeeze money out of you The MOT I would guess shows the brake pad thickness as an "advisory" all that means they were working on the day of the Test? It doesn't mean they are OK or Safe just that they were OK then. The only things between us and a wall or ditch are Brakes and Tyres for me it is a false economy to ignore the warning, Pads are much cheaper than a new set of Discs and Pads an complete set of Brembo (Top make) pads for your car I would think is around £40 may be a little more plus fitting which should be around 2 hrs max if you can't DIY Dave

The rear brake pad change service notification has been on for a while. The car has just had an MOT and no advisory re brake pads, so I think this means more than 3mm left on them. So they do not need replacing. My car now has the brake light illuminated and keeps telling me to service the brake pads, overdue by 12 miles. Do I need to change the brake pads as they are perfectly fine according to MOT? Thank you

Hi, Yes, I have now sold it. Apologies for not removing the post earlier. I can't figure out how to do it! Karol

Have you sold it ?

Morning Trishul What was it like ? Good turnout ? Dave

Morning Vin Welcome to the Forum As your system is CiC and modular you need a Diagnostic scan to provide us more information Dave

Display unit flickers red and you cannot use nav or music

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum The Post is 3 years old and I am not sure if the original poster even still has the car? As said you can check pressure at the Low Pressure side after 15/20mins running anything below 30 psi points to low /no Gas. Most systems loose a little every year particularly if the system is shut down during the winter months as many folks do, the seals dry out and leaks start it's better to use the Climate Control and leave it running. If your topping it up yourself make sure the kit has the correct compressor oil as low compressor oil levels can give issues. If the water control valves are OK and working, the Climate Control unit is functioning correctly, then I would use someone like Kwik Fit to service the AC the systems they use are automatic and pre-programmed it will vac out the system, providing the system holds the vacuum for a measured time (no leaks) it will introduce the correct oil and re-gas the system. I expect to get mine done every 3 to 5 years depending on the car and AC performance Dave Note your car should be Type R134A you can't mix gasses

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave