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Hi Morgan I manged the last one without removing the Actuator it's a fiddle but doable as you are aware the cable just clips on. Maybe worth checking online to see if any how to Videos are available I guess we know what your doing this weekend 🤣 Dave

Morning, Thanks for that. I think I’ve found the part. Do you have to remove the actuator to fit the outer latch cable or can it be fitted with just removing the handle mechanism? Thanks, Morgan

Morning Morgan Attached is a Diagram from www.realoem.com the part number you need is 51217317560 No 8 on the drawing, if you aren't aware put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model The last I brought was around £20 the advice I would give is don't buy a second user recycled one to save money Hope this is helpful Dave

Hi Dave, thanks for that and it makes a lot of sense. I have only replaced the internal latch cable, the one that runs from the internal door handle and hooks onto the actuator latch. Do you have a link for the other latch cable/part I can buy? Thanks, Morgan

Hi Morgan Welcome to the Forum You say you have replaced the Latch cable ? There are two one between the outer door handle and one for the inner door handle I have seen 2 instances of the cable that goes between the Outer door handle and the actuator sticking if the actuator lever it is attached to cant fully return to it's stop the Actuator won't release. I tried removing the cable and lubricating it and the result was short term success (lasted a few days and stuck again) The only solution was a new cable in both instances. I found it first time as the door card was off and I put my hand behind the actuator and pushed the inside lever down, "click" Hey Presto internal handle worked door open. Close door open door using outer handle then close door neither handle worked again Hope this helps Dave

Hi, I’m hoping someone can help as I’m at my wits end. I have a E70 2010 M Sport. The driver door only intermittently works. The latch handle inside will not open the door, I can hear it operating inside the door car. The exterior handle will not open the door. I have replaced the actuator, the latch cable and that still did not solve the problem. I looked at the electrics and it appeared the wiring to the connector socket into the actuator looked a little damaged, replaced this part of the wiring harness. This has not fixed the problem and I am out of ideas. I usually give the door card a good few whacks and then door will then release. Am I unlucky and could the new actuator I installed be faulty or should I be looking more at the electrics?? Can anyone help?? Thank you

Hi John Welcome to the Forum As far as I recall the sensor is on the engine cover over the front of the Inlet Camshaft Here is an excerpt from the Engine repair manual 9.2.2. Camshaft sensor The N47TU camshaft sensor operates according to the Hall principle as with all BMW engines. The camshaft sensor is installed on the cylinder head cover above the intake camshaft. A camshaft sensor trigger wheel is mounted on the intake camshaft for this purpose. The Digital Diesel Electronics uses the camshaft sensor to detect whether the 1st cylinder is in the compression phase or the exhaust phase. This assignment cannot be made from the crankshaft position. Assignment is necessary so that fuel injection can be regulated accordingly. The DDE supplies the sensor with 5V and ground. The sensor supplies a digital signal via the signal line to the DDE. A special pattern allows emergency operation if the crankshaft sensor fails. The resolution of the camshaft sensor signal is, however, too inaccurate to replace the crankshaft sensor during normal operation. Hope this helps Dave

Hi doe s anyone know where the camshaft sensor is on bmw 1 series f20 n47 2013?

Thanks for the quick response Dave. Just started my journey with this F31 had an E46 quote some years ago. Hope I dont regret it. May just take a gamble with some so called oem msport compatible ones. Cheers Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As with the OP it would be a bit of a gamble to see if the fit, the only way would be "trial and error" by offering them up to see how the mountings line up. May be contact some of the BMW specialist dismantlers to see if that would keep cost down Dave

Morning Paul Fuel Filter (if not already covered) is my only thought then a general check around Dave

Does anyone know if the above part no's fit an F31 msport LCI model. As per OP realoem and BMW dealers say they dont fit. Ive seen on another forum that only the rear ones fit an F31 msport, thanks.

Hi, my E64 has just clicked over 100K miles and Im looking to undertake a significant service so looking for items to change. Have already done auto transmission fluid, new water pump and belts, pollen filters, air filters, a number of suspension items, battery is fine, replaced some small hoses due to leaks, new discs done but now looking at : Plugs and HT leads Oil and filter, of course, with a stop smoke additive which works well for E64 issues with valve springs, Replaced the filter holder a little while back Check anti freeze levels Wipers all good Air con top up needs attention as no longer blowing cold. Brakes wear and tear good Any other consumables which I should look to change out. Any advice gratefully received.

Hi Garyboy If I am right your engine is B48D 4 Cylinder type I have never used them but I have read good things about Celtic Tuning. They have been around for a good few years have you contacted them and talked through what you need ? Link https://www.celtictuning.co.uk Good Luck Dave

I take it you dont want to know anything about my old car

For winter wheels, a square arrangement is quite acceptable and frequently superior for winter grip; you don't have to keep staggered. Depending on brake clearance, most people switch to 17" or stick with 18", but 17s with the right winter tires typically ride better and are less expensive. Just make sure that everything is cleared by the widths and offsets.

Morning I believe 19" were an alternate which should allow a deeper sidewall Good Luck Dave

Morning Andrew First check for any air leaks between the Air Filter and the inlet manifold in case some thing has been disturbed (hose or Vac line) Check realoem for sensor locations Good luck Dave

Morning Carl I have never worked on one of the 3 cylinder engines but logically I would expect the Temp Sensor to be close to the Thermostat either on it's own housing or the water pump, some BMW models actually had 2 sensors one on the Thermostat housing the other on the lower Radiator hose If you get stuck I will fire up ISTA and see if there is any help in Workshop Information (WIS) Good luck Dave

Hi sorry my mistake it’s 2021 plate 2ltr 330 😁

Sorry - the wheels are the standard 20-inch the car comes with.

It’s the rims that crack. You only find out when changing a tyre or checking why your are loosing pressure. I didn’t have a problem with my grand tourer. I changed to the coupe which I think runs on lower profile tyres. Will look at alternatives.

Hi, I have now replaced the thermostats and the car is now running at around 90 degrees but I am now getting a fault code P0112 saying there is a fault with the air intake sensor? First of all where is it and can i clean it ? thanks Paneuro.

Hi, I have now renewed the main thermostat and the EGR thermostat and the car is running at the proper temperature. My son in law gave me a basic scan tool and it is telling me that there is a problem with an AIR INTAKE SENSOR code P0112, can anybody give me an idea where this sensor is on the intake system and is it electrically operated or vacuum please. thanks Paneuro.

Anyone have thoughts on the attached photo showing the drivers side panoramic roof seal. Are these easy to replace and is this just an expected deterioration on a 2018 X340i