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Hi: There is a detailed article on facebook dealing with this problem. It requires removing the outer cover of the door sill (water may pour out) and notching it to match the actual drain hole in the sill. Simple solution. Don't understand why BMW hasn't notched the sills at the factory! I have a 2021 430i convertible and don't know if my car has the same problem. I have to lay down on the ground and check. The sill cover notch has to line up with the drain in the sill.

I have a 2000 z3 2.5l with left side drive/US model. the cruise control worked intermittent for a few yrs then quit altogether. check fuse #46/good, then figured I would replace the switches down by the clutch pedal. no one here knows anything about them. one switch is to the left of the pedal and the other is to the right; both have a 3 wire connector. i would like to know what are they called and perhaps a part # and a source other than BMW/astronomical to buy them. thank you

Hi Mike, Thank you for responding. Unfortunately you have been the only person to respond to my shout out concerning this problem - Im starting to think this is just me that this has happened to or that anybody else just gets on with it without complaining ! In answer to your queries, I believe the water ingress happens with natural rain/water hose falling on the car and seeping down the rubbers of the top canopy/windows...they are not impervious to water and in most other cars it is directed away from collection. Unfortunatelly the 4 series convertible was made without a means of sufficient drainage and eventually it causes a flooding/failure of the said window winder mechanism. My advice would be to go to your local BMW garage or specialist BMW service garage and get advice/action to deal with this problem before it gets expensive and have no recompense from BMW !! Please let me know how you get on and what you are told/advised by the garages involved. Cheers for now, Julian

Morning Steven That sounds fishy to me why would they order a Module without talking to you and showing the evidence? and when it doesn't clear the faults who pays for the part and the work?? Based on your pictures (where were they taken) as I say those don't show a Transfer case fault anywhere the code D36A is a communication fault with the DSC? What they do show a whole load of K-can faults (communication system) that is the place to start, get that fixed and the faults cleared. A couple of hours labour max. Then re=scan and you will see where the real issues are, then you can schedule any work, replacement parts etc. Google the Register of BMW Specialists and put in your post code it will show you the nearest ones talk to them before just handing over your car and hard earned find out what their costs are never just hand over your car and wallet Dave

Hi Dave im located in warwickshire and the garage has told me they had a specialist who came in and logged in with bmw software so they ordered a new transfer case module im not clued up on cars but I try hunt the Internet and research just so I don't get scammed

Where are you based? Who ever you got the scan pictures from seems OK they clearly have Auto Logic software that can work with your car just depends on whether you feel comfortable with them I guess. Like i say first job is fix the K-can Bus show the post and pictures it will help the Garage or Mechanic get the job done without to much time wasting (£££) then you will be able to see what needs doing I am not a Garage just an old retired bloke who has fixed lots of cars over a lot of years But if I can help I will Dave

Hi bud its just somethink that the garage has told me so I haven't a clue what there doing would of been gd if u was local seems like u know what ur doing so hard to trust garages these days

Morning Steven Really ? your screen shot doesn't show any VTG Fault or is it a new one ? Or is it a different scan ? You will need to either get them checked and repaired other wise the K-can bus faults will never be cleared and they will prevent some others being cleared. My course of action would be first repair the K-can Bus and clear down all the K-can Bus faults either using a Scan tool like your original screen shots or simply disconnect the Battery for 30mins (a Dealer Trick) Once that is done re-scan and see what faults show. Many folks have carried out costly replacement/repairs due to treating a symptom not the actual cause. Transfer Case damage/faults are normally tyre related or the VTG oil needs replacing Seems you are making progress though 😁 Dave

Hi. Having read so many articles from BM convertible owners, it is appalling that BMW fails to recognise and this fault through a recall? Do you know where the water enters the sills/ boot area? Can the point of entry be identified? Does the sill fill up before entering the motors etc? I ask because I noticed water escaping from the rear , near side sill area after a car wash and therefore want to solve the issue before it reaches the stage of such expense that you have had. Any help ideas welcome.

Gave the car to my mate who gratefully took it for his young family. he took it to his local garage and turns out the camshaft timing sensor was clogged up and misreading. I had changed the inlet and outlet cam sensors but not the camshaft sensor. an engine flush and clean, new oil and spark plugs, a good service and it’s off like a scalded cat! Cost wise it was about £300 to sort. happy days!

Thank u so much for your time Dave I managed to get someone to plug in with bmw diagnostic and they said they narrowed it down to the transfer control case module il check these cables thou aswel

Got to bring it to mechanic i use all the time ....showed him 'report' ...he just started laughing ...he has seen same thing twice already in last 6/9 months with other bmw owners coming from SAME main dealer !!!!!!! guessing they must have surplus damper pulley stock ......

TA for that Dave ....i had bring to main dealers yesterday for manf re call ...steering wheel airbag !!...and when i collected it they said they also done mechanical inspection and gave me a 'report sheet '...he pointed out remark on it which is just three words ''damper pulley cracked'' ...his phone rang and he walked off into another part of building ... drove it home the three or so miles but made me bit paranoid about using it now TA again

Morning Steven Plenty to go at there 🤣 I see that most of the fault codes are K-can based, if your not aware the Bus system is how all the Control modules talk to each other, so first port of call is sort the K-can bus fault. That should allow you to clear most of the faults then we can see what is left How handy are you ? Getting handier I guess 😅 So it may be simpler than you think and not as scary, in the boot right hand side you will need to take out the battery cover and storage box (5 screws). Take out the cover for the rear Fuse Board (unclips) and remove the small storage tray under it (2 push clips) Now you will have access to the main loom across the back of the car. BMW in their wisdom decided to make solder free cable joints by twisting and compressing joints then putting a clear rubber/plastic seal over them. Moisture gets in and the joints corrode and fail that is the cause of your problem, now the fix. Tools you will need are, Soldering Iron and solder (my preference) or a method of jointing the cables plus some shrink wrap/tape to seal the joints You need to dig into the main loom the runs below the fuse board where it begins to rise and across the back of the car The Pictures show what your looking for any black in the clear plastic is corrosion, when I found mine and moved the joints for the K-can bus they literally fell apart. Look at the picture (Cable splices) you can see the 2 smaller splices on the left (Orange/Green trace and Green) that's the Can Bus. I took off the clear plastic (it fell off) stripped the cables back twisted the cables together and soldered the joint. Work one joint at a time so nothing gets mixed up, once the Can Bus is fixed you should be able to clear most faults. When I found this lot on my E70 I remade all the joints one at a time just for my own peace of mind all of them are in the big loom below the fuse board and across the rear of the car towards the battery. Not a scary as it seems, when done and tested tidy up the loom with some tape and put everything back together Now rescan clear faults and see what is left Good Luck Dave Dave

Don't you love some Main Dealers, with my E53 X5 4.6is I changed most of the suspension bushes from rubber to Poly bushes (same as many competition cars) as they last longer. Airbag Recall and the Service Manager told me my cars was unsafe to use on the road ?? I asked why and he told me the suspension was fitted with "non compliant parts" that should be changed immediately. 8 years on and in March this year it passed its MOT with no advisories 🤣 By the way to see the Crank pulley they would need to remove the engine splash guards not sure if the need to do that for the recall ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Hi I might know some info , are we talking about the e30 touring or f31 touring?

Thanks Dave these are the codes that are coming g up

Hi Steven To get the best you will need someone with a BMW capable diagnostic system Obviously BMW but they will be costly as most Dealers now have hourly rates north of £200. A BMW specialist would have the kit and are normally around half the cost of a main Dealer Google the Register of BMW Specialists. Or a good Independent with a top end Snapon, Foxwell or Autologic system there are several others these days Your BMW X5 has around 100 control modules a BMW system will see them all and narrow down the source of the fault a General OBD reader will just see a general code that then takes time to trace Dave

Also is it best to go to bmw for a diagnosis session or can any mechanic help

Hi Dave thank u for your reply il look into this thank u

TA for that Dave ....i had bring to main dealers yesterday for manf re call ...steering wheel airbag !!...and when i collected it they said they also done mechanical inspection and gave me a 'report sheet '...he pointed out remark on it which is just three words ''damper pulley cracked'' ...his phone rang and he walked off into another part of building ... drove it home the three or so miles but made me bit paranoid about using it now TA again

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Bit confused your post says transmission fault yet you ask about key cutting?? Am I missing something as you say the car drives well If it is a new or spare key the simplest way is to contact your main dealer and part with some hard earned Dave

Morning Steven First I take it you are working from lights on the dash you really do need a Diagnostic session to be sure of the Fault cause. From your description the fault could be the Junction Box/FRM (footwell control module) it controls many functions. You will need to change it if you can get the same part number it will be straight forward but you will need to match the mileage so note it before starting or you will get a tamper dot on the dash Dave

Morning Stewart There is a drain plug in the bottom of the rad or simply pop off the bottom hose. The hoses have an "O" ring seal held by a spring clip, if you prize up the spring clip you can wiggle the hose off have a big tub/bowl to catch the coolant Dave

Morning Frank Who told you that ? The Damper pulley is made of steel as is the inner boss the two parts are held together by a vulcanised rubber core it is probably the rubber which is showing cracks, how did they see it? If you look down from the top of the engine and the pulley is wobbling when the engine is running I would consider changing it (if you do then it is worth changing Belts Tension and Guide pulleys as well) If the pulley is steady then I wouldn't worry to much Hope this helps Dave