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My X1 - Sept 24 manufacture - has been with the dealership for 11 weeks now having been confirmed as one of the vehicles affected by this recall. I know it's not the dealers fault but I'm frustrated by the lack of information coming back on how BMW intend to resolve the issue. As far as I'm aware 2 lots of filings samples have been seen to Germany so far and there's been no update since 12th May other than 'we're chasing it every day for you' I have been given a hire car which is an Enterprise Rent-a-car 320. Nice car but not suitable as I bought the X1 for mobility reasons. BMW customer experience promised me, on 1st May, a more suitable loan vehicle but so far they've delivered an iX1 after confirming they were sending an X2 (I have no changing point or anywhere to charge one) and last week another 320 (??) Today I have had an email from BMW Customer Support informing me that the 'delivery stop' is being given the full attention and priority of BMW and that "there isn't a department or level within BMW that can speed up this situation for you or provide extra information." Trying to calm down before composing a suitable response. Considering legal action now but I waited 7 months for my very nice X1 and I really don't want to be looking for something else by forcing BMW's hand to buy it back. I might take the advice from others on here first, quote the Sale of Goods Act to them, and see what comes back. Any other advice would be greatly received..

We soooo love an optomist Stu 🤣 If the wire colours were different that is reall wierd Dave

Hi. I picked up my new BMW 320i (2014) yesterday and have been trying to connect my iphone 12 to the built in multimedia system. I want to use my phones sat nav and Spotify to play music. The issue is that when I connect my phone via the USB, the phone charges (which is great and shows me it works), then it thinks for a few seconds then says "Not supported". Any idea how to fix this? Also, was wondering how to update to the latest software version in case its that, but it seems it needs a mechanics computer (seems very over complicated!)

Thanks mate. I have checked the crimping and it’s all good. what might throw it out is the wiring all being different colouring, so I might have a permanent live swapped with a switched live… obviously I wouldn’t be able to tell until the car is sleeping and I don’t know where each live controls . I have a clamp meter en route, I’ll find it! it can’t be that difficult, there is only about 15 wires in the top boot and no exterior lights. surely it’s a lock button, wiper and 2x interior lights. The brake light was not cut along with the aerial module on the spoiler.

I would double double check your crimping is there a stray wire strand thats touching something it shouldn't? According to my ex-neighbour (Now a High Up BMW man based the USA) it was late 2003 early 2004 before there were any changes in the X5 apparently the early pre facelift models were fitted with a full loom so any accessories were easy addons. After face lift you needed a loom extension and coding so what you have done really should have been straight forward (but aren't all the "simple little jobs") Dave

Yes it’s still available just had the mot done with no problem this was he first time he mot my cay and he thinks this could be the one of the best in the uk . My contact information if anybody’s interested in this car is 0750 3456 144.

In the market for a 1998 Z3 in Orinoco...is it still available?

Hi Dave. The lock and button are from the donor vehicle. I basically cut and crimped the existing wires to the loom in the upper bootlid. the lower bootlid used the existing loom. when I had the light issue, it was the rh upper lid courtesy light the that came on when I pressed the lock release button. Left one works correctly and all lights extinguish when I lock the car.

Hi Stu A clamp Ammeter on the live side of the battery will help then start pulling fuses in the boot as it is where the issue started. Shut yourself inside and when the car goes to sleep the ammeter should read just a few milli amps anything higher is the issue. Start pulling fuses in the rear fuse panel if one stops the draw you have the circuit that needs checking. If no joy repeat at the front fuse board Question, is the lock the original or is it one that came with the bits you replaced ? Dave

Hi all… what’s the best way to locate a power drain? basically, I have changed the boot on the x5 and since then, the battery keeps going flat. I have no shorts anywhere and I had an issue where the boot release button would turn the interior light on.. I have disconnected that but still have a drain issue. Wiring diagrams are of little insight. … anyone got any tips, time is not on my side as I have limited rest between work and crazy children! 😂 cheers! stu

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Morning Lewis The only way I can think of is to try the DVLA to see if you can contact the current owner Nostalgia for and old once owned car is great but remember the old adage "One careful owner, the other six didn't care at all" so rescueing it may cost more than it's worth Hope this helps Dave

Morning Richard I would say if it is "every now and then" it isn't normal and needs some investigation Dave

Hi there, New to the group and have a bit of of longshot and after doing some research this was suggested thing to do. I used to own a 08 530D E60, reg being LT08 YMA, and got rid of the car 4 years ago. Always checked everytl year for the MOT history but hasn’t been done since 2022. Done a full history checked and car is SORN and not on the road, but interestingly no scrapped, I thought it would be as it has 313k miles. Would there be any possible way to know if this car is still out there? Or is this mission impossible 😂 Any words of advice would be great 👍🏻

my G21 every now and then makes a clicking when opened. I assume this is normal.🤔

Morning Gordon Welcome to the Forum Thats a whole can of worms to open 😁 First there is the question of is your car air suspension front and rear? Rear air Front springs or has it been converted to springs all round. If it is to be a full spring conversion I would look at companies like Eibach well recognised and reliable ( Cost I would guess at around £500 to £1k ) If you want to retain the OEM rear air suspension I have read of rear adjustable links ror the ride height sensors combined with adjustable front springs ( Cost around £500 ) If it is a full air suspension I talked to a guy at Goodwood who had a BMW 3.5d X5 on a fully adjustable Airride suspension kit he could select ride height from a panel in the car or through an App on his phone very cool. He could choose 4 preset ride heights (his choice) He told me cost was £1600 2 years ago Dave

Best lowering products for 2017 BMW X5 drive 3.5 Thanks

Thanks for giving us a try. Regards, Dan.

Hi Andrew If you have had a shredded belt I would check the whole system belts don't just shred Main suspect for me would be start with the Crank shaft damper pulley they can detach from the rubber insert and wobble causes the AC belt and Serpentine belt to rub on each other and fray. I would also check all Idler and Tension pulleys plus while things are loose the waterpump,Alternator and AC compressor Dave

I have a 2008 530D E61 and have a metallic rattle whenever the engine starts, it only does it once when the engine starts. I have had my son start and stop the car several times and it sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine. I have recently replaced the serpentine belt as it failed and ended up in shreds and I had to cut it off. I'm wondering if it could be something to do with the idler pulley. Has anybody had a problem like this before. thanks Paneuro.

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum First remember that any Mods Body or Performance you need to check with your insurers don't need to have something happen and discover your not covered. If going for performance mods Suspension, Brakes and Tyres would be my starting point, having the car go where you point it and stop when you want to. Engine and Trans mission would be last on my list. Body mods take alook at pistures of cars like the M135i. All the M body panels and trims are available from either BMW or from the specialist BMW Dismantlers and you know they will fit. Remember to factor in Paint ? There is also the After market Body kits but remember these may need some work to get the fit looking right and again paint. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

I’m 19 and have just bought a 118i Msport. What are the best mods for it since I’m fairly new to this, I’m aware of remaps and performance upgrades but in terms of exterior and cosmetics what are the best things to do?

Ok is it the fan in front of the Rad ? Dave

Its electric. Just shopping around to get one. Will let you know when its done. Thanks. That said this is Spain and everything is difficult to get.

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum If there is vibration at such a low speed I would suspect not only the control arm but is the wheel Tyre out of balance is the fixing bolt and ball joint torqued correctly ? Also consider if changing suspension parts it is good practice to change bothsides at the same time. The job is straight forward just make sure the main bolt is Torqued up when the control arm is in the loaded postion (Weight on the suspension) or the bush will only last a very short time. Dont know where you are but in the UK most suspension parts are available from Motor Parts Factors next day at least prce I would expect to be around £25 to £30 per side. Worth considering is a complete suspension refresh as if one control arm is that bad other parts will be worn as well Only you can assess the amount of risk as non of us can see/feel how loose things are Hope this helps Dave