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Hi Steven To get the best you will need someone with a BMW capable diagnostic system Obviously BMW but they will be costly as most Dealers now have hourly rates north of £200. A BMW specialist would have the kit and are normally around half the cost of a main Dealer Google the Register of BMW Specialists. Or a good Independent with a top end Snapon, Foxwell or Autologic system there are several others these days Your BMW X5 has around 100 control modules a BMW system will see them all and narrow down the source of the fault a General OBD reader will just see a general code that then takes time to trace Dave

Also is it best to go to bmw for a diagnosis session or can any mechanic help

Hi Dave thank u for your reply il look into this thank u

TA for that Dave ....i had bring to main dealers yesterday for manf re call ...steering wheel airbag !!...and when i collected it they said they also done mechanical inspection and gave me a 'report sheet '...he pointed out remark on it which is just three words ''damper pulley cracked'' ...his phone rang and he walked off into another part of building ... drove it home the three or so miles but made me bit paranoid about using it now TA again

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Bit confused your post says transmission fault yet you ask about key cutting?? Am I missing something as you say the car drives well If it is a new or spare key the simplest way is to contact your main dealer and part with some hard earned Dave

Morning Steven First I take it you are working from lights on the dash you really do need a Diagnostic session to be sure of the Fault cause. From your description the fault could be the Junction Box/FRM (footwell control module) it controls many functions. You will need to change it if you can get the same part number it will be straight forward but you will need to match the mileage so note it before starting or you will get a tamper dot on the dash Dave

Morning Stewart There is a drain plug in the bottom of the rad or simply pop off the bottom hose. The hoses have an "O" ring seal held by a spring clip, if you prize up the spring clip you can wiggle the hose off have a big tub/bowl to catch the coolant Dave

Morning Frank Who told you that ? The Damper pulley is made of steel as is the inner boss the two parts are held together by a vulcanised rubber core it is probably the rubber which is showing cracks, how did they see it? If you look down from the top of the engine and the pulley is wobbling when the engine is running I would consider changing it (if you do then it is worth changing Belts Tension and Guide pulleys as well) If the pulley is steady then I wouldn't worry to much Hope this helps Dave

Just told today that damper pulley is cracked !! Wondered how critical/,urgent this might be as ideally needed to use car tmrw ?? TA

So guys back again ive got a fault code on my bmw x5 e70 saying 4x4 abs ebv failure previous owner just went and changed the abs pump but never coded it so I sent the original off to ecu testing to see if it was faulty it came back today and they said the original pump had no faults at all but whilst I was waiting for it to come back the car has been doing stupid things like wipers staying on when car turned off passenger window not working to the point the motor burns out on it radio staying on when cars off im literally getting to the point i give up only owned it a month any help I would appreciate it

I would like to change the coolant on my X3 but have never seen hose clips of the type fitted as it looks like complete ring. Any ideas on removal and tips on bleeding the system would be appreciated. Thanks

Morning Frank Welcome to the Forum Rear Suspension not right ! Isn't much to help diagnose your problem so (1) is the system loosing pressure overnight ? (2) Is the compressor running (you should hear it under the back of the car) ? What dash warnings are you seeing ? Genuine air bags are around £80 each A replacement compressor £130 A Control unit (second user) £50 then there are 2 ride height sensors £25 a pair 2 fuses and a relay. So the system isn't complicated and can replaced completely for around £350 to £400, most common issues I have seen are leaks. If the system is loosing air the compressor ends up over running and either timing out (dash warning) or wearing out and while it will run it just can't produce enough pressure. My guess is, that if the previous owner changed the air bags the compressor is possibly on it's way out, easy to change a real plug and play job. Hope this helps Dave

new to this so not sure if this is correct 'place ' i have a 2013 520 estate ,rear suspension not right !! seems airbags were replaced by previous owner ...mechanic says module has been disconnected at some stage previous ... he hasnt repaired one before but is willing to remove it/try fix it but of course cannot be sure ..am told they are quite expensive though if need be bought ...also see some people replace air one with conventional shocks/springs ...really lost on all of this as to best/easiest,,,, least expensive solution ... thanking ye in advance !!

Any 2004 525i Touring owners out there? And if yes, did you ever have this fault? And where did you get a spare key cut? Cleared the code and it drives superb! 83,000 on the clock and it looks brand new inside. Any tips most grateful for.

I bought my Z4 back in January and have been getting familiar with it ever since. I've always kept factory repair manuals for my vehicles, and I wanted to do the same for my 2005 Z4 E85 Roadster. I tried a cheap PDF repair CD, but it was a waste of money. I found a solid repair manual for my Z4 on my website, which I highly recommend: https://workshopmanuals.org/product/bmw-z4-e85-e86-2003-2006-workshop-repair-service-manual-download-pdf/

Morning Richard Most of the control modules on the RR L322 are the same as BMW I bus cars so you should have no issues Good Luck Dave

Thank you Dave, That's a great piece of info. Absolutely appreciate it. I work with Land Rovers/ Range Rovers hacking & cloning, unlocking etc, although the P38's & early L322's were mostly BMW. Looks like I'll try & replace the module like for like next.

Hi Richard As long as it is the same Part Number you should be OK, worst case scenario it will need registering to the chassis. While BMW Dealers try and make a big deal of it it is simple and straight forward. Normally if your Snapon tool will recognise the Module it's just entering the Vin sometimes just the last 7 digits is enough. If not try BMW 1.4.0 you can get it for between £10 and £20 depending where you buy it will give you dealer level access to all BMW's up to 2006/2007 Dave

Hi Dave, Thank you for replying. I've gone through all that. Tested the pre tensioner, sits on 0.06. Done the continuity's, fuses, everything is hanging loose in the car, fusebox etc. Can the SRS module be swapped over on this model year? & fault cleared or do they have to be cloned?

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum First is the replacement "new" or second hand worth testing it, next I would check continuity on the loom to the SRS module before changing the actual Module Don't know why but passenger seat occupancy was also an issue worth checking the sensor mat Hope this helps Dave

Hi chaps. I'm pulling my hair out with this airbag problem i'm working on for my elderly neighbour. I'm Using Snapon Verus. it's a 2004 330D estate. Fault code 03, ignition Circuit ZK2 Belt tensioner Passenger. I've replaced the pre tensioner but the fault will not clear. Anyone with any sharable knowledge regarding this? I'm looking at a faulty SRS module. Any help would be so appreciated.

Yes and on all four doors. 😢

Bought this on my 40th, had 3 years. Got a salary sacrifice hybrid, and keeping the wife's Q3. Want it to go to someone who'll appreciate it. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202506263894450?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android-app

Morning Stu If there is no rattling or just a little at cold start I would check the chain tensioner first, early X5 V8s were known for needing them changed every 20k or so. Normally looks like big bolt on the side of the timing cover. If I recall it's at the back of the engine on the side of the timing chain cover under the airbox. One of the boys on the shoot brought a cheap Mini because it had Chain rattle changed the tensioner and still driving it 2 years later My thought is it ran well for 100 miles and chains don't go without some early signs, worth a go before going for the full strip job Dave

Morning Grant Welcome to the Forum Apart from removing the console and checking if it releases from behind I can offer no help Keep us updated Dave