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Hi Kev Welcome to the Forum With ISTA you have the right tool it should let you get to the bottom of the problem. Have you checked fuel pressure could be a dodgy pressure sensor? Checked all Vacuum lines and hoses on the inlet side to make sure there are no air leaks ? Carried out a smooth running test using ISTA ? Throttle body OK ? Just thinking out loud for things that could give a mis-fire Hope this helps Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum That's a surprise maybe the sliders are Imperial (can't for the Life of me see why) that would make 5/16 or maybe 3/8 Unless of course they are Torx fitting T40 maybe ?? Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Morning Hamzza Welcome to the Forum I have read some stories about people having difficulty finding anyone who is capable of working on hybrid transmissions. You need to search www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the gearbox section then you will have the part number. I believe some of these transmissions were in house BMW built so parts and service may tie you to BMW £££ But try the Transmission Specialists you may hopefully find one who can help Good Luck Dave

Morning Guy Remember BMW like most Manufacturers have thousands of parts suppliers around a 38% in Germany another 30% in Europe around 15% in the USA and 17% shock horror in China I ordered suspension bushes from Febi a couple of years ago (best price) and they came in BMW labelled boxes 🤣 So if you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need once you have the part numbers search the internet for best price and supply. The gearbox is the only part where you may need outside help as it is a ZF manufactured item which BMW fit as a complete assembly service parts are available though. Good luck hope this helps and things go smoothly Dave

My wife loves her BTW 320d convertible, a couple of weeks back the roof went down but would not go back up. Oh dear I thought. (Well that's the polite version) Anyhow discovered rear window regulator was at fault, the reason being water runs down the window and fills up the void just behind the door which because the drain plug is blocked with accumulated dirt and bmw cover it with a plastic underfloor cover means water can't escape. Which by the way fills up and fries the battery or sound amp, depending on which side. In my case luckily not quite but did mean the window regulator was immersed in water and gradually dusted through the site which makes the window go up and down. Hence roof would not go up because window wouldn't fully retract. So got hold of second hand rear window regulator swap them over and it all works again. So please learn this valuable lesson unless of course you wish to part with loads of money, check the drain plugs covered by plastic underfloor covering located behind the driver and passenger doors.

Morning Paul Sorry that doesn't look like a BMW part number just looked on my copy of ISTA and to try and get it right I have chosen mid 2010 as the manufacturing date and it seems there are 3 choices and dependent on the lighting package here is what I have found Vehicles with lighting package S522A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262721 Right Part No 63127262722 Vehicles with lighting package S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63127262725 Right Part No 63127262726 Vehicles without lighting packages S522A or S524A Bi Xenon Headlamp Left Part No 63117199603 Right Part No 63117199604 You can check what lighting package your car has by using a BMW Vin decoder online however my guess would be you have S524A with adaptive lights Hope this helps Dave

Hi Ted Then I would suspect a loom problem if the signal is sent and assuming the sensors are OK then there is a reason the signal isn't arriving. So my logical old brain would start testing continuity checking all plugs and connectors cleaning them with contact spray I would also check the clutch air gap just to be safe if the garage that checked the compressors and clutches tested them by applying 12v to the terminals but in the car only 5v is applied ?? Do you know what Voltage should be applied to your cars compressor or do they? A quick look at the parts list in ISTA for a 2012 F31 tells me there were 2 types of Compressor 1 uses a magnetic clutch 64529216467 - RP A/C compressor the other with a Magnetic coupling p64506805025 - A/C compressor if I understand it these are replacement parts so require the correct Clutch or Magnetic coupling to be moved over So is the part correct for your car ? If you can't check yourself then you may need a good Auto Electrician or AirCon Specialist Dave

OK so I have a mate who had a scanner to read my codes unfortunately I have two: 244900 DPF full of soot and 273D00 crank/camshaft readings, so it’s a replacement timing chain and guides as well as a DPF soak kit as the engine has to be removed anyway

Morning Rick Your transmission is made by ZF a check of their website should let you know what their recommended service intervals are from memory 60k to 100k dependent on use and climate. I have read that you can also get a shift control service kit Don't buy cheap get ZF stuff check out www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model then check the Gearbox section get the part numbers you need the use the Internet for best prices Good luck Dave

Morning Juli Welcome to the Forum Read as much as you can on all Forums just bear in mind most forums will highlight issues so don't just look at the number but look for specific Engine or Gearbox issues Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Why are the brake lines being replaced are the leaking ? or is it just that you want them changed ? BMW are not alone in fitting brake lines to a bare shell then putting huge assemblies like the rear subframe and axel in place to cover them up. My wife's car is a 3.0 Subaru Outback with a Perrin engine upgrade (400whp) she loves it and it has been a brilliant car 15 MOT's and it had it's first advisory this year. However she reported a soft pedal last year when I investigated I found signs of brake fluid leaking on the nearside rear. Now Subaru run the brake lines inside the car so they are protected brilliant, until they need to exit to reach the rear wheels they chose to do that in a place where they then mount the fuel tank ?? To drop the tank you first have to drop the Rear subframe (sound familiar) Cost at a dealer would be more than the car is worth (and she does love her car) so my solution run new brake lines inside the car into the boot area near the spare wheel well drill two holes for grommets and feed the new lines down and connect to the existing flexy pipes. A days head scratching and planning £30 worth of materials and brake fluid job done So a BMW dealer will have Labour rates north of £200 per hour so dropping the rear subframe will probably be 2 days work possibly with 2 techs for safety easy to see where the money goes. Personally I would run new lines in copper (no rust issues) and clip them to the rear subframe cut out the existing lines apart from where they are above the subframe. Same with parts Febi, Mehyle Bosch and many others are OEM parts suppliers to BMW who like all other Car manufacturers tend to make Bodies and Engines all the other thousands of parts are brought in. Buy those parts from BMW and you will find their markup is often 400% that's life. Maintaining our Beemers i top condition particularly the older models would become uneconomical very quickly if using dealers Dave

Hi Stu, thank you for jumping in on this.. I've just had another mechanic come out who took the starter off and confirmed its still working. I also got the RAC out as I forgot I had a policy with them through my insurance. He tried the jump start, , attempted to turn the crank from underneath and believes its seized.. I've mentioned the alternator point back to the mechanic for his thoughts as I agree.. The engine warning light came on, the engine stopped and it coasted to a stop and never started again... There was no noise and the gear selector went into neutral.. As I type this, is that a fail safe designed within the car to stop the wheel locking up when the engine seized? Finally, if it is gone , it needs to go as I am not prepared to spend another penny on it.. Any enthusiasts out there who want to take it on?

Morning Dave, Thank you for your very helpful reply. I do not have runflats, as I think they are the Devils work. I have put a my details into realoem, but there are so many options it is confusing. I have tried Autodoc and found some Eibach springs but they seem to be for both standard and Msport, can not see how that works. I really want the softest option available as I just need the car for local journeys, as the roads where I live are like the Somme I am thinking of putting 225/55/16 wheels and tyres on as well. Cheers, Brian

Ok

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Not me (I drive a fat X5) but my Brother Inlaw is now on his 6th 5 series Touring he travels a lot in Europe. All his cars have been owned from new and serviced by BMW but with interim services/oil changes by us in my home garage, we change oil and filters at 5k intervals (for him that's monthly). All his cars have been larger engines (he likes the power) current is a 540d xDrive ECU tuned to 400hp, all his cars run to over 200k before trading in He has had issues early on BMW used to tell buyers Gearbox's were sealed for life ( we service to ZF standards at home) Infotainment system faults a whole list but not difficult to sort with DIY and a little thought Around 2007 BMW moved timing chains to the rear of the engine so any rattles here could be expensive as the engine has to come out ?? So as with any second user car Service History is key and the first thing I would do is carry out a full inspection and service check the oil drained from the sump with a magnet or pour it slowly through a paper coffee filter for any metal particles if there are any it could well signal issues to come Hope this helps Dave

Morning James OK phone is running Android 16 what is the Droid running can you connect it to home Wifi and check for updates? Not necessarily a wrong connection just not a clean connection so remaking them after a blast with a good electrical contact cleaner may well be the answer I spoke to my neighbour (330i Touring) he told me he had some connection issues between his Android screen (brought from Amazon last year) and his Samsung Galaxy which sound similar to your issue, Bluetooth calls would not connect properly or not at all, his wife's Motorola connected fine and she is the main user. He remade the Samsung connection several times apparently then noticed his address book hadn't uploaded (as his wife's address book is similar he hadn't noticed at first) He cleared all connections on the Android unit in the car and the remade the connections to his and his wife's phones. His address book uploaded so did his wife's and both phones have worked ever since he has no clue what he may have done different but everything works even Android Auto Good Luck Dave

Translation guys. Any ideas? Hello, I have checked if the crankshaft pulley had slack and it is fine, the one on the camshaft is also fine, no slack, I have changed the fuel pressure regulator and the car keeps failing, it is funny because it only fails when the engine is hot, in cold it works perfectly, today I have been able to take a ride with the cold engine and the car works very well but when it heats up it drowns. I have also tried disconnecting the coils 1 by 1, and they all work well, when disconnecting each one the engine changes rpms. Since it is not a failure of the shaft or camshaft sensors, or do you think it could be a failure of injectors that fail when heated?

Morning Charles Welcome to the Forum I would Google the Register of BMW Specialists there should be a few close by then call and talk to them about your issue then make a choice I would expect all to say they need to see the car to make a diagnosis and give outline costs Good Luck Dave

It will drive like a new car when your finished 😁

Hi Melvyn Welcome to the Forum A friend who worked for a company upgrading and repairing Audio Systems for high end cars (Merc BMW Audi/VW) told me a few years back it will depend on the year and software version in the Infotainment system not the Manufacture/Reg year of the car. His advice was check using a Vin Decoder exactly what is fitted to your car then you will know what upgrade is possible/needed to enable it as a guide he gave me this CIC (ID3/4) ~2010–2016 No Needs MMI or Android screen NBT (ID4) ~2013–2016 No (rare cases) Some retrofits possible NBT Evo (ID5/6) ~2016–2019 Software activation Needs S6CPA + Wi-Fi for full-screen MGU (ID7) ~2019–2022 Native wireless Bluetooth pairs, Wi-Fi runs it MGU21 (ID8/8.5) ~2022+ Native wireless Requires Siri; setup differs So it would seem if you have the the NBT Evo system then you need a Wifi Antenna and the software (S6CPA) and it should run on your OEM system, Note the Manufacture years shown are for the Infotainment systems I had to fit a replacement Android screen in my E70 and all up very happy with it If you have the NBT system Google the Register of BMW Specialists you should find a few near to you then check out prices Hope this helps Dave

This has been up for a while now in various places, and nobody seems to want it. Think it’s time I separated this, put it up on eBay and bump up the price. And what with bmw parts prices these days, and the e46 starting to rise in value! Ah well, eBay here it comes!

Morning Gary Is the clutch on the compressor kicking in and out ? Fuses OK ? Really daft one is the drive belt OK ? As already said it could be the Dryer If the system is charged and Drive belt Fuses and Compressor clutch are OK then a diagnostic scan needs to be carried out Dave

Have you checked your wheel nuts?? Check for broken springs and top mounts

Morning David Welcome to the Forum First a couple of questions (1) Do you have access to a Good BMW Diagnostic program (ISTA/INPA, iCarsoft, Foxwell,or similar) and a vacuum bleeding kit (2) Have you read the brake bleeding process on INPA/ISTA the ABS pump needs activating to clear possible air locks Not trying to teach Granny here but 😁 When bleeding brakes changing Brake fluid I start at the wheel furthest from the Master cylinder, Fill the Master cylinder and pump the pedal to start the fluid moving, either take your time a few pumps and check the fluid level or have an assistant to keep it topped up. After a bit you should feel pressure, now crack the bleed nipple on the wheel furthest from the Master cylinder air should be expelled If you have a Vacuum kit it will pull through the fluid if not you and your assistant will need to follow the old method of pedal down close bleed nipple pedal up check fluid level pedal down bleed nipple cracked air/fluid expelled bleed nipple closed repeat until just clear fluid is coming through before moving to the next cylinder (always furthest away from the Master cylinder) So Near side rear, Off side rear, Nearside front , Off side front. Once all 4 calipers have been Bled the ABS pump needs activating to finalise the process. If you still have a soft pedal an old trick is pump the pedal until hard cut a piece of wood to fit between the brake pedal and drivers seat then wedge the wood there to keep the pressure up (I have used the electric seat to adjust). It needs to be left for a couple of hours even overnight then re-bleed, had a neighbours 5 series that needed this done 3 time really stubborn 🤣 Hope this helps Dave