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Excellent explanation. A lot of the anxiety about DPF and EGR concerns is greatly reduced by real-world instances such as yours. Frequent maintenance and safe driving practices have a significant impact. I appreciate you sharing your story.

Morning Peter Most tyre places will write off the tyre if Goo has been used even if the puncture is in a repairable place and your quite right they hate the cleaning it needs That was one reason for me moving to the plug system simple to use and a permanent repair As said used it more on friends neighbours and family's only once on my current E70 X5 Good luck with the car ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning Ali Welcome and Seasons Greetings It could be a sticky or failing Hydraulic cam follower or a sticky Vanos solenoid. Clearly difficult to diagnose without being around the car If you use Cruise Control and feel a lurch when turning it off/disengaging it I would suspect the Vanos solenoids Dave

Well spoken, Dave. I've observed the same thing with prolonged service intervals: if minor seepages are ignored for a longer period of time, they grow into larger issues. Without the main dealer price tag, a competent independent BMW specialist can typically determine if the problem is actually a turbo or merely a seal.

I agree. I've also used a square configuration in the winter and found it to be very effective, particularly in the snow. In addition to making life easier, going a little narrower with the appropriate offsets typically results in cost savings.

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Not sure where you are but if your in the UK you could talk to ECU Testing or Cartronix to see if they could help. I take it you have searched for a second user Speedo or Binnacle ? That gives 2 possibilities strip it to get the part you want or swap the lot, you may need a Diagnostic like BMW 1.4.0 to register a changed unit and correct mileages Dave

Morning Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings I would guess that if your seeing 10v at the signal wire then either (a) the sensor is toast (b) there is a short in the wiring loom to test at the DME you will either need to trace the signal wire back or get your hands on a Pin Out for the DME. I have seen corroded pins at the DME but that normally shows as no signal I assume you have checked the Crank sensor ? What Diagnostic system are you using Dave

Morning Firat My thoughts are that the trans codes are communication errors triggered by low voltage and or Can Bus issues. How is the transmission running ? Is it sticking in gears ? Are changes jerky ? Any other trans issues leaks etc when was it serviced ? My actions would be to start with a Fully Charged Battery, clear down the codes check the battery voltage was still at full charge 12.5v minimum Then put a clamp ammeter on the main starter feed and start the car measure the amps drawn stop the engine and check battery voltage. As I have BMW ISTA/INPA (I also have iCarsoft BMW V2) I would then run a diagnostic and record all faults I suspect the Trans Faults are not all that are there. Remember a Fault Code very often is a symptom not the cause Good Luck Dave

Hi 90 k is not a lot of miles when was it last serviced ? Are there any leaks anywhere? So the vapour does it smell ? Sweet smell (could be anti freeze/coolant) has it needed topping up? Oil smell is obvious Next check and test and change if required the Oil Temp sensor I believe it's on the Filter body on your model. See if that stabilises the Gauge Dave

Morning Nathan Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Sounds like a stuck lifter Dave

Hello mate thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of information. I think the engine is a n13 I had the car serviced in may and when I pick the car up and looked at the invoice they hadn’t change the fuel filter when I questioned the garage they said the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump so I said don’t it have a in line filter and they said no Thank you

Thanks for the reply. I've replaced the battery several times with new ones ( I should have mentioned that in the post) and unfortunately I lost the other fob. I've been procrastinating replacing it due to the cost. So I guess the next step is the scan tool. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks.

Depending on engine, it could be a failing glow plug? Or maf leak? A misfire will cause a random jump and affect fuel consumption. Do you notice any fuel smell when the juddering happens?

Morning Mike Fuse box should be near side of the engine bay against the bulkhead so easy to get at with a couple of main loom penetrations into the Cabin. Never liked hacking into cables with splices etc 😁 Dave

Hi James You could try companies such as ECU Testing or Cartronix another alternative may be get the Part number and search Dismantlers like Quarry Motors Before replacing it though some Talc puffed along and around the boot seals then a wash may give clues to where it is getting in, but more important check the boot floor seal/drain is not blocked. If you have a sun roof make sure the drains are clear Good Luck Dave

Thx for your feed back , appreciate thx fingers crossed

Hi Rob Have you looked at the 3 series I am sure they can't be that different, if there is nothing there then it's the after market suppliers !! Dave

Morning Jordan Welcome to the Forum The code your seeing is in my experience normally tied to 3 suspects (1) Battery, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good health. Engine off test the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet anything below 12.5v would indicate a problem. Engine running test again you should see 14.5+v (alternator good) (2) Steering angle sensor, these don't often fail but not impossible, driving forwards turning lock to lock normally resets and clears it. (3) Transfer case fault, Again normally robust but the poor old Gearbox and Transfer case are often ignored (even by Dealers) and not serviced. So check for any signs of leaks changing the Transfer case fluid is straight forward just make sure it is correct for your car (tip always make sure you can undo the Fill plug before draining, seen two where folks drained and then couldn't refill). Also when stopping listen for clicking noises under the drivers seat in some cases the nylon activation gear can wear/strip and may need replacing (plenty of "how too's" on the net So I would start with simple stuff, Battery first then clear the codes and check again you may need the help of someone with a Diagnostic program to clear faults i the memory. If the Battery is the culprit then just changing it should clear the faults and lock to lock reset the steering angle sensor. Fingers crossed its a cheap easy fix Dave

Morning Mathew I guess we know what you would like for Christmas 😅 I would contact the Kit makers to either speak with them or get some Idea of what is involved. If your taking off Door Cards etc to connect the lighting I would do the speakers (so you don't end up with that wish I had done that feeling) You will need access to a Diagnostic program that has programming capability so that it is registered on your iDrive then if you have Carplay I would think it should work from your phone Good Luck Dave

Morning Mathew Only if your car is Left Hand Drive 😅 Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Bit early but I will get my thinking hat on ( I am a retired Engineer born with a need to know how and why things work) , sadly it seems you have a Tech working on your car not a Mechanic. The difference is a Tech will believe the Codes shown and change parts as indicated, a good Mechanic will see codes as a symptom and look for the cause. Code 24CF00 is related to the MAF the question is what triggered it ? Was it an air leak have all the Air and Vac lines been checked ? You say the swirl flaps have been removed? when the Inlet manifold was replaced were the gaskets renewed? You also say the EGR was replaced under Recall was it the EGR or the EGR Cooler ? The next 2 Codes are related to exhaust pressure 28EC00 is the pressure sensor upstream of the Turbo 2AB600 is exhaust back pressure. Both sensors can be tested if they are OK then I would look for a blockage in the exhaust/EGR recirculation system (EGR hoses can get clogged with soot) Just because your running at motorway speed doesn't mean a Regen cycle has been triggered. The exhaust has to reach certain temperatures for a regen cycle to occur it can be triggered by software. If you have a Regen cycle the re will be a noticeable amount of smoke and you will notice the fan running more Sorry if this raises more questions than answers, but from your description the Garage you are using seem to be plugging in Diagnostics and changing parts not testing and checking for the cause. This is why I DIY my own repairs unless it's something that needs heavy Garage equipment Dave

Hi there , in west Berkshire , just outside reading .

Hi James I have talked to a friend in BMW who tells me the Ambient Lighting package did not become available until 2018 for 3 series models so the probability is yours does not have it. It can be retrofitted and coded to your car, but I have no idea how much work that would entail Good Luck Dave

Hi Glenn I tend to use Quarry Motors they are very knowledgeable and helpful (also been around for years) try Googling BMW Breakers that may work If not put the part number into an Ebay Search see if that brings results Good Hunting Dave

Hi Ian A good Auto Electrician would I suspect have Diagnostic software or search the Register of BMW Specialists there should be a few close to you and they will have all the Tech, I bet a few phone calls will get what you need Dave