Greydog

Hi Andrew If you have had a shredded belt I would check the whole system belts don't just shred Main suspect for me would be start with the Crank shaft damper pulley they can detach from the rubber insert and wobble causes the AC belt and Serpentine belt to rub on each other and fray. I would also check all Idler and Tension pulleys plus while things are loose the waterpump,Alternator and AC compressor Dave

Morning Dan Welcome to the Forum First remember that any Mods Body or Performance you need to check with your insurers don't need to have something happen and discover your not covered. If going for performance mods Suspension, Brakes and Tyres would be my starting point, having the car go where you point it and stop when you want to. Engine and Trans mission would be last on my list. Body mods take alook at pistures of cars like the M135i. All the M body panels and trims are available from either BMW or from the specialist BMW Dismantlers and you know they will fit. Remember to factor in Paint ? There is also the After market Body kits but remember these may need some work to get the fit looking right and again paint. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Ok is it the fan in front of the Rad ? Dave

Morning Kyle Welcome to the Forum If there is vibration at such a low speed I would suspect not only the control arm but is the wheel Tyre out of balance is the fixing bolt and ball joint torqued correctly ? Also consider if changing suspension parts it is good practice to change bothsides at the same time. The job is straight forward just make sure the main bolt is Torqued up when the control arm is in the loaded postion (Weight on the suspension) or the bush will only last a very short time. Dont know where you are but in the UK most suspension parts are available from Motor Parts Factors next day at least prce I would expect to be around £25 to £30 per side. Worth considering is a complete suspension refresh as if one control arm is that bad other parts will be worn as well Only you can assess the amount of risk as non of us can see/feel how loose things are Hope this helps Dave

Morning Stewart Which model is it ? If the fan is Electric then normally they a quiet in operation if it is the engine driven fan then they are an easy change. Just remember the nut that holds it in place is Left Hand thread. Remove the fan shroud a good adjustable spanner just squeezes in on the nut, a whack with a rubber mallet normally loosens the nut the just wind it off. Now you have a choice, either replace it with a direct replacement or as I did with my 4.4 and 4.6 X5's I replaced it with an Electric fan from a later model (Fan and Shroud) activated using a Landrover top hose thermostat Dave

Great Result Kev Wonder what your Dealer would have charged 😂 Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum Great motor First 110k is not high miles for one of these engines if it is well maintained my brother inlaws 540d xDrive Touring has been ECU tuned since new and produces 400+ hp is currently North of 200k and going strong A full Diagnostic check would/should tell you more, a smooth running test on the injectors will show any that are out of step. If the transmission hasn't had a service it is due one at 110k, both Diffs (Note the Rear Diff has two chambers which hold different fluids) will need service as will the Transfer case and Gearbox if your having this done at a Dealer it will not be cheap around £900 to £1000. Check Tyres carefully they should be the same make Front and Rear and prefferably BMW approved and star rated. Dave

Couple of the Volvos and Mercedes had the same system in the E55's and the CLS 63 I used to keep a pay as you go sim in them and set my phone on divert to that number if not answered, when I got in the car I turned off my phone worked really well I guess the next question is can you still get a Sim that will fit ??🤣 For the X5 so far I have a full set of PDC sensors , a coule of Ride Height sensors, a Final Stage Resistor and a couple of ULF (Bluetooth units) 17" spare wheel etc still got a load of stuff to sort through though Dave

So you have gone over to the Dark Side 🤣 You will never need the radio the engine is all you need never use mine in the 4.6 V8's are addictive. Good luck with the Porker Dave

Morning Ken Take care here my X5 E53 4.6is only 800 ever registered in the UK and less than 200 left on the road is on a Classic policy with agreed Value. My other cars are like you with Admiral the danger is that the mainline companies will use valations from an assessor employed by them or a general panel, ask We Buy any Car for an estimate of what your 635 is worth !! My agreed value is £9k (I was offered more last year at Goodwood) We Buy any Car tell me its worth £700 Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Jay Technically there isnt a down pipe there should be a diesel particulate filter (DPF) if there is a single downpipe then it will be aftermarket. DPF's are normally really tough the bit that blows is the flexible pipe at the bottom BMW call it a Decoupling element and still sell them as will a number of aftermaket exhaust suppliers like Bosal Try looking at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the exhaust section. Once you have the part numbers just use the Internet to find the best deal or as Stu says Quarry have always been helpful Dave

Hi Kevin Well looking at www.realoem.com it looks as though above the Propshaft you have a bracket to support the Handbrake cables item 6 at the front directly over the Prop and Item 12 to support the split of cables left and right I would start there it may just need replacing or short term a couple of cable ties applied Hope your up and around soon Dave

Morning Dimitris Just checked my wiring diagram in ISTA and it doesn't cover E38 models so not much help at the moment but I will dig Dave

I would still try the Dismantlers if I recall there was a Register of BMW Dismantlers/Recyclers in the UK it certainly can't hurt. Maybe a complete lamp is the only option Dave

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Spoilers are and always will be a matter of personal taste, if you were buying from a BMW Dealer they would want to fit a M sport item but if thats what you prefer it looks fine to me not OTT and Boy Racer ENJOY YOUR BEEMER Dave

Hi Zeke Welcome to the Forum You may need a Turbo Specialist for this as BMW do't repair anything they just replace complete assemblies Try www.realoem.com if you aren't aware it is a BMW online parts list either put the part number in the search box or the last 7 digits of your Vin it will call up your model but as said above a BMW Dealer would charge for and fit a complete Turbo assembly Good luck Dave

Morning Stu Sorry it took a little while Friday afternoon had to nip down to Wincanton Saturday Judging a Gundog Working Test and yesterday Dog Training day (you jinxed it with your Slow day) So very confusing while the Wiring Diagram shows the rear lower tailgate lock and actuator button it doesn't give wire colours (pictures attached) I checked the Bus system that didnt help either according to the wiring diagrams all pre-facelift models (up to 2004) should be the same All I can think is either there is a short somewhere (through robber cable gromit at the top) So not sure if it helps or not Looked at the PDC and it points toward the PDC controller (in the boot down by the battery) Dave

Morning Phil Not sure if you can get just the Glass Lens all that I see in realoem is the Headlamp Insert which looks like the full unit Part Number 63121383918 I guess you have checked all the BMW Dismantlers to see if they can help Dave

Hi Phil Welcome to the Forum I just ran a quick search on realoem and it doesn't recognose that part number what I get for the RH Headlamp (European Models) is 63128354524 which superceeded 63121392036 Have you tried BMW Classic Section to see if they can help? Dave

Hi Stu Good to know that its all back together 😁 I have wiring diagrams in ISTA so what model and year did the replacement parts come from and I will check, yours is 3.0ltr petrol right ? I will put a list together and send it Dave

Morning James First tools Halfords will probably have everything you need the same applies to most Motor Factors. Remember to check prices don't assume that your getting the best price I use EuroCar Parts for most spares if they don't have it in stock generally they can get it in 24hrs A decent Socket set and decent set of Combination spanners (open one end ring at the other) plus Flat and cross head screw drivers would be enough to get you going, get a box of rubber gloves as well saves a load of scrubbing later😁 If you need sockets bigger than those in your set you can buy them singley, same applies to Combination spanners Sump plug a 17mm socket is fine, slacken it off then unscrew with your fingers (remember to buy a magnet on and extending handle so you can fish it out of the old oil in the catch tank) Your engine will hold around 6 or 7 litres 2 4.5/5ltr cans are fine and oil stores well, my thought is transporting the used oil to your local recycling centre for disposal you will have more than will fit into a 5ltr can so you may well need to find a couple of plastic bottles to help out Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum You will find several Videos online that should help this is one of the simple jobs that with some basic tools is easy to do Tools I use are Oil Filter Cap 36mm Socket (You can buy special filter cap sockets) Oil Drian plug 17mm spanner Large oil Catch tank (mine is 16ltr) magnet Funnel, Ramps Trolley jack and axel stands a few disposable cloths Parts Oil around 7ltrs (I use Mobil 1. 5-30 LL04 which meets BMW specs Oil Filter OEM filters are MANN which I get from my local Auto Factors. I always fit a new Copper Crush washer to the Sump Drain Plug Method I run the engine to warm the oil then drive the front wheels onto the ramps, put the trolley jack under the rear diff and raise the rear until the car is level and put the axel stands under the rear jacking points. Next working above I undo the Filter cap and remove the filter have a cloth handy to catch drips and spills I put the filter into plastic bag (donated by a local supermarket) wipe the filter housing clean add a little oil to the "O" rings on the new filter and put it in and replace the cap. Now under the car there is a drop down flap that covers the Drain Plug take it off then slide the catch tank under the drain plug and remove the plug allow the oil to drain. If you dropped the drain plug into the catch tank that's when you will need the magnet (We have all done it) recover the drain plug remove the old crush washer and replace it then put the drain plug back and tighten it, hand tight is OK it doesn't need to be Gorrilla tight. give the area a wipe so it is clean and you will see any leaks. Now up top put the Funnel into the oil filler and fill with oil after putting in 5 ltr let it settle and check the level and underneath for any signs of leaks, start the engine let it run a short while turn off and let it settle check the level and top up check underneath for any leaks and replace the drop down flap. Chack around the filter housing wipe everything down. The old oil you can now pur into the oil cans that the new oil came in wipe out the catch tank and put all thoily cloths into the bag with the fiter ready for taking to your local tip Job done Hope this helps Dave

Hi Stewart I thought the Foxwell would be capable If you have no warnings or faults showing i wouldn't be concerned as you can trigger a DPF Regeneration cycle whenever you wish (only really needed if all you are doing is lots of short journeys) my E70 I trigger around twice a year. No worry about the MOT and DPF as it will be the original, it's just the cars ECU that thinks it is new. Dave

Morning Stewart Even if the Foxwell can't give soot and ash levels it should be able to tell the car it has a new DPF Dave

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum Fuel Pump Relay is one of the first suspects, then Crank Sensor and Cam Sensors Did the injectors go back in the correct order? I take it you have a Diagnostic scanner? if the injectors were mixed up you will need the numbers from the top of each injector and they will need registering to each position. Hope this helps not hinders Dave