Greydog

Hi Mark I think the fact that one of his customers has decided not to as it isn't Lane Assist and it bothered them tells you it probably would throw a code. Having said that I guess you could turn off Lane Assist or code it out My feeling is anything fitted should work if not it could have an effect on any Sale/Trade In price Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Chris I use the one from Halfords a tip I was given years ago was Lemon Juice I have used it a couple of times on really heavily rusted items, if left for a day it really breaks down the heavy rust then back to the penetrating fluid. In really extreme cases a bit of heat helps. Dave

Hi Chris As your doing the suspension as well get a big can of Penetrating fluid and soak the mounting nuts a few times Take a look at www.pelicanparts.com choose BMW then DIY Articles it is an American sight but apart from the steering being on the wrong side the cars are the same. Their DIY How To's are great with pictures and tip's I am sure you will find it useful. Dave

Hi Steve If it looses power when turning right (unless you live where they have those multi go where you want insane roundabouts) I would look in the engine bay, the loom to the Coil Packs also the Loom to the injectors Also check the engine mounts and earth straps. My guess would be something is chaffed or loose and causing the misfire when turning. Try rocking the engine to the left when stationary, try to replicate it. Not heard of an ABS fault causing a misfire yet 😂 Also check the vacuum lines and all air hoses for cracks and leaks Good Luck Dave

Just did a Realoem search and worked out why you had confusion your first picture was Value Line showing Front Part number 339270 Rear Part number 339290 The second Rear axel only picture is BMW not their so called Value Line Part number 763043 Glad you are sorted I don't know how good your DIY skills are but if this helps Tools apart from a socket set and allen keys plus a soft faced mallet make sure you have brake cleaner spray a couple of wire brushes and I also have a small brass bristled brush plus a tube of Copper grease Good luck I hope cleaning and greasing sort it out with nothing else needing replacing Just took a look at your last post as you say half BMW's Quote plus it includes the suspension kit when theirs was Brakes only!! Result As an aside Meyle are still I believe OEM suppliers 😅 Now we know what you will be doing at the weekend 🤣 still could be worse you could have the grass to cut as well Dave

Hi Anthony Welcome to the Forum The TPMS for your car has sensors mounted in each wheel which have a small battery in them they tend to have a life of around 5 to 10 years in my experience. There is a Transponder Antenna in each wheel arch that sends the signal via Canbus to the TPMS Unit which could be in the boot or behind the dash and rarely seem to give problems. A diagnostic session would tell you what the fault is, I have seen several where one or more Tyre pressure units have failed after awhile the TPMS shuts down, the owner being convinced it has failed. The pain is to change the wheel sensors is a tyre off job so if you don't need tyres it could be cheaper to check with diagnostics and wait for tyre change. Dave

Morning Chris Oh dear !! First you know know how much you can save as you have BMW OEM prices 😁 Looking at your pictures (dangerous but I assume the first 2 pics are front next 2 rear) First calliper's are sticking or pads jamming or a combination of both. So they need stripping and cleaning make sure the calliper is free on it's slide pins and that the piston is moving freely, make sure the calliper body is very clean and that pads fit and move easily in their seats. DONT operate the brakes without either a piston compression tool in place or pads and a disc. Part numbers I think you will find there are 2 disc sizes for the front of your car 310 x 24mm and 324 x 30mm which is why you have 2 part numbers for pads. Measure the disc if unsure. Rear pads you have 1 part number Now to the money saving part last year I changed Front and rear discs on a 535d touring for one of our sons friends, he brought a set of rear Discs pads and handbrake shoes for £110 and a set of Front discs 324 x 30mm with pads for £105 all from Ebay (just called him and asked) all fitted perfectly and work faultlessly. I used him as slave labour to do all the cleaning and scrubbing to get all the crud off then an easy Saturday morning stripping and fitting Dave

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I am with Mark here I use silicon spray at least once a year. I drop the window down and spray the window runners then spray onto a cloth to clean rubbers and seals to avoid overspray on paintwork. I also use it on suspension rubber parts whether it extends their life ? who knows but it keeps them looking clean and tidy must help at MOT time. Good Luck Dave

Morning Chris In Europe I believe ATE and Teves are mainly suppliers of ABS components so as long as they are working with no lights you should be OK 😁 Pads and Disc's I have always used Brembo brake parts on my cars but I have fitted other aftermarket parts for friends and family without any issues When you found the 2 part numbers on Realoem were they for for front and rear or both front? As there may be an M-sport version or HD brake version often measuring the disc is the best way Dave

I use stuff from Chemical Guys brought through Ebay Interior and Exterior but any good branded products will do to be fair. Just 20years of using it on many cars Enjoy Dave

Morning Steve Morning Stu Welcome to the Forum Steve Go to www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the cars Vin into the search box it will bring up the exact model so then you will know for sure E46 or E90 I believe the engine is the same in both models N46 but due to emissions changes the Lambda sensors are different a look at the exhaust system may give some clues if you know what your looking for. If not stick with realoem then order using the part number that way you will get the correct ones for your car Good Luck Dave

Plus 1 for Stu's diagnosis also check the ride height sensors The suspension is self levelling under load the ride height has a +/- tolerance of 10mm From your description the suspension is either leaking or the control is draining the supply through the compressor (it has an exhaust) Once at ride height with no leaks the suspension compressor should be rarely heard, if there is a heavy load in the boot it should pump up to level the ride when the load is reduced the exhaust allows air out to maintain ride height/quality. The airbag/spring with age can become porous where it rolls on its self in use check it carefully with soapy water it doesn't take much of a leak to let things sag. Changing them is a straight forward DIY job Good Luck Dave

Morning Ron Welcome to the Forum First as far as I am aware the wiper motor is mounted to the scuttle accessed by removing trim in the engine bay. Before going to the complete strip down have you checked (A) the wiper arm mount and nut, and (B) the big nut (22mm or 24mm) that secures the wiper mechanism to the scuttle on that side just in case its loose. My guess is that will be the problem Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the trim or body sections for any help with how it fits Another source would be You-tube there are some good how to's on there though take care some are not so good Good Luck Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum ENJOY Dave PS Cleaned it yet 🤣

Hi Harinder Welcome to the Forum The original post was by a member in Ireland I believe who manufactured his own and a few for other members I don't think they were ever commercially available You could try a direct mail to the original poster but as the post is a few years old he may have moved on Good Luck Dave

To throw a rock into Michael's minefield my 4.4 X5 had self levelling suspension and lights which were halogen originally, the E53 4.6is and my E70 are likewise equipped with self levelling air suspension and light If you have Xenon lamps then you should have high voltage warning stickers clearly visible on them. When I upgraded the 4.4 I used complete Xenon headlight units from Quarry Motors they cam complete with all lamps. I wasn't aware that a lamp change to LED could cause a fail at MOT been lucky there so far good information Michael Dave

Morning Ted Welcome to the Forum If you are determined enough you can achieve anything, the question would be how practical it would be. As I understand it Petrol cars need to Euro 4 compliant or better Diesels Euro 6 or better. So if you can find an F70 2007 to 2013 4.8 petrol it will (or should be) ULEZ compliant. The Diesels I am not so sure as I have a couple of acquaintances who's F70's have been shown as none compliant. As a broad stroke 2015 or later for Diesel So back to your question if you upgraded the engine, emissions controls and probably a whole load of stuff I haven't thought of. Then took on the battle with TFL to get the car accepted as emissions compliant? At the moment they work on Registration/Year of Manufacture not actual emission output. I think cost would outweigh the cars value making it cheaper to trade it for something compliant. If you really want to stay with the F70 then the 4.8 is the answer if you find a low mileage model with the M-tec body kit brilliant. Hope this helps Dave

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Morning Marius Welcome to the Forum Do an internet search for Android Head units for your car I changed my E70 to an Erisin Android unit a few years ago never regretted it The unit I fitted has Android Auto and Apple Carplay built in as well as a better Sat Nav plus you can down load any apps you like. Only the Screen is changed so if your radio CD etc are working great they still will. I got mine from one of the online auction sites A simple DIY upgrade Dave

Morning Tino BMW Chassis ground points are normally Brown however BMW are masters at earth controlled switching which is what I believe your seeing At the Fuel pump relay, key in ignition on. You should have power at Pin 30 (Red/Purple) and also at Pin 86 (Red/White) The DME should supply the Ground on Pin 85 (Black/Purple) The Fuel Pump itself is Pin 87 (White/Blue) Hope this helps Dave

Hells teeth Tino your going to know more about your BMW than the Dealer ever would BMW have a love of Multiple earth points my 4.4 X5 had some issues which I traced finally to the Earth point at the spare wheel well. I remade all earth points using contact paste to make sure all were good. Good luck buddy you must be close now Dave

Hi Michael Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the part number is correct ? A quick look on www.realoem.com will give the part number double click the part number and it will give a list of any alternates The gauze you had on the original was I believe an intake filter the other with the long rubber pipe is exhaust. So I would cut a chunk out of the wife's stockings and fix it in place with an elastic band to replicate the original filter Dave

The one I changed worked straight away, no lights on the dash I ran a scan just to be sure and cleared all fault codes just in case Dave

Just talked to a friend who sent me this USING ISTA WITH USB K+D-CAN CABLE (Example using Com Port 9) Plug your K+D-CAN cable and install drivers. For FTDI based cables use latest drivers. Open “Device Manager”, then USB Serial Port properties, go to “Port Settings” tab and click “Advanced...”. Change port number to “COM9” and latency timer to “1”. Confirm configuration via “OK” button.