Greydog

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW in their wisdom !! Moved the timing chain to the rear of the engine so it's an engine out job if there are any timing chain problems. Having said that if the car has a solid history plus any evidence of interim oil changes you should be fine. I am personally not a fan of extended service periods so my 3.0d X5 (same engine and trans) gets an oil and filter change every year regardless of miles covered (current 133k) or what the service schdule says Hope its what your looking for if it is ENJOY Dave

How's the rebuild going Stu I am having a garage clear up while your enjoying the sun swapping bits on your car 😅 I have quite a few E53 bits if they are of interest from FSR to a 17" spare wheel (never been used) to a full set of 20" Type 87 wheels and tyres. I will send a list if its of interest Dave

Morning Just set up a Virtual Machine on your laptop running Win 7 and you should be away 😁 Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum Seems that was a close call !! Nothing in settings or the handbook that helps? If you do disable it the next time you want to open it you will curse though Dave

Hi Mick Welcome to the Forum First wheel rotation if the tyres are asymetric then that will not work as you will end up with tyres turning against their rotational arrows also check your wheel if you have the same tyre sizes front and rear it's normally less of an issue. X5's the E53 in particular used to suffer with camber issues at the rear due to the lower spherical bearing failing it wore tyres on the inner edge but most of them had a much wider rear tyre set my 4.6is and E70 has 275x40x20 front 315X35X20 rear. More of a tyre/cost issue than transmission damaging though The X1 E84 has a slightly different rear axel set up but is still adjustable for both Camber and Toe. If you are competent with spanners actually changing rear bushes isn't such a difficult job the one piece of advice I would give is there are eccentric bolts for camber and toe I replace those as a matter of course to make sure everyth can be aligned properly. If you don't have one hire or borrow a bearing push/pull kit and your away. should take about 11/2hrs per side. I mark the position of the eccentric bolts with tippex so it goes back the same then when the job is done off the tyre shop that can handle 4 wheel alignment. Take a look at www.realoem.com if you aren't aware it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check out the rear axel section Hope this helps Dave

Morning Cameron As far as I know the 18" wheels were not supplied as a staggered set (Wider rear) so should be 8J rims all round there for should be 225x40x18 front and rear you really need the help of a mechanic or at least someone who understands what they are looking at, the Rim size is stamped on the inside of the wheel so I would take off a rear wheel if it is stamped 8J tyres are wrong With Xdrive transmission there only needs to be around 5mm difference between front and rear tyres which is why BMW recommend Star rated tyres from recommended suppliers Tyres are not just round black rubber things ! ! The front and rear should ideally be from the same Manufacturer and the correct size for the car. A part worn tyre may have 4mm tread depth a new tyre almost 10mm tread depth which can be enough to cause transmission damage. If a Diff is damaged cost will be around £800 to £900 for the Diff plus fitting if the transfer case is damaged you could be looking at a BIG bill Dave

But What size front are 225x?x? rear the same 255x?x? If wheels are 17" they should be 7.5J rims 18" 8.0J rims 19" should be 8.0J all round or if wider rears then 8j front and 9j rear The ONLY wheel set that has wider rear rims is 19" so if your car has 17" or 18" wheels the tyres are probably wrong just checking the width does not make them correct Dave

Hi Cameron That sounds wrong for an X! to me unless the rear wheels are wider than the front If your wheels are 17" tyre size should be 225x50x17 94H front and rear 18" Wheels tyres should be 225x45x18 or if wider rims at the rear 255x40x18 at the back 19" rims tyres should be 225x40x19" front 255x35x19" rear As I have said check very carefully if the rear tyres are 255 but should be 225 then the distance they cover each rotation will be to much of a difference between front and rear and will cause damage Dave

Hi Cameron From your description and the additional information it sounds like transmission wind up, probable cause is the rear tyres being new have a larger rolling radius than the front that is putting strain on the transfer case and also the diffs. I would check them carefully tyres are much cheaper than a new Diff or Transfer Case Dave

Morning Cameron Welcome to the Forum A bit more information would help us make a guess at what is happening Which X1 model do you have Front wheel drive or X drive? What condition are the tyres and are they all the same make? When the bumby ride happens is it on the straight or in bends does it vary with speed? Does it happen under acceleration? Dave

Morning Paul Check the auction sites and internet for averages, Glass's Guide will give trade values The bottom line is it is worth what someone is willing to pay Dave

Morning Billy Welcome (almost) to the Forum Unfortunatley due to the low ride height on the M cars it isn't unusual for them to suffer front bumper/splitter damage. My next door neighbour has a 335i coupe which he loves and works hard to keep it pristine, he has had 3 incidents (2 of his own and 1 of his wifes) where parking nose in and there had been a raised kerb he has had 2 paint repairs and then made the decision to replace the bumper completely all unrecorded as he just loves his car. If your happy with the car and more important happy with the standard of repair/restoration the Selling Garage have done then why not buy it. Obviously you have to remember it is a 10 year old car so final inspection is your responsibility if still unhappy either negotiate a price that lets you get the work done to your own standards or walk away. I take it you have ensured all switches and toys are working as they should Good luck with the purchase hope you enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Ken Depending what OBD reader your using will either give Generic codes or if it is a fully BMW capable one then you should get better results (I use BMW ISTA/INPA) First I would check near the front fuse panel on the side behind the trim you should find a Multiple Earth point (BMW love these) check it carefully they were a well known source of problems on the E53 and E70. If you have a wiring diagram it may help idntify which pins to check continuity on. As far as I am aware the JBE with integrated PDC is just that it may mean a complete unit which will need coding to the chassis. Unless of course someone like ECU Testing (Derby I think) can fix it but that may put the car off the road for a few days Or as my daughter once told me "you don't need all that stuff Dad there is a Thud when your to close" 🤣 Dave

Hi Ben Without carrying out a full test on each TMS it is difficult to say. I would check the internet for any test criteria then start with the good one note the results then test the faulty one to compare. All I found on the TIS is it is likely to be the LED's (2 of them) how simple it is to change them I have no idea. As an Example I recently had a failed Halo/Parking lamp on my E70 checked ISTA says remove cover 3 screws remove 2 further screws and the lamp is out Ha Ha Ha. What i discovered in WIS was a note that says remove Headlamp from the car to access the screws. Dave

Morning Ken Welcome to the Forum Depending on exactly when your car was built the PDC location changed. According to ISTA cars built before late 2010 the PDC module is in the Boot below the fuse board. LCI models and 2011 on it seems it was integrated with the Junction Box Module which is below the fuse board under the Glove Box the smaller plug A4010a is the PDC connector Dave