Right, cheers Dave.

So I believe I still have a parasitic drain somewhere. Started pulling fuses to no avail, but need to finish the job as only got halfway through. Bimmer link shows the following when car is running:

Communication OK

Capacity - 80ah

State of charge (SOC) - 30%

State of health (SOH) - 74%

Remaining capacity (SOH-based) - 59ah

Battery voltage - 14.6v (12.2v when car off)

Battery current - 1.2a (-3.6a when car off)

Generator current - 23a

I'm assuming the only way to identify is to keep pulling fuses until it levels out? Must be bad as I trickle charged it last week and the clocks and dash has reset.

Are you measuring the amperage drain with a Clamp type ammeter? Pulling fuses will isolate the circuit unless it is a fault with Footwell Control module or Junction Box control module

There will always be a drain but after the car is asleep it should register in mili Amps once the car is asleep

Dave

 

Thanks Dave. The figures posted above were obtained using the bimmer tools app so I am not sure how accurate it is. While pulling fuses I linked up multimeter to battery posts under bonnet and watched for voltage changes as I pulled fuses. So far no change.

Don't forget the fuse boxes in the boot and under the bonnet also those battery figures don't look good considering the engine was running. Even a new battery can die dig out the receipt you may need a new one 

Dave

 

Okay will do Dave thanks. The battery is an Exide and is 12 months old. Still within warranty so may query that. Is there a way that I can check if it's a battery issue? Maybe take it off the car, charge it and monitor voltage levels while off the car? Not sure if there's another way? Cheers.

A fully charged battery should measure 12.8v I would charge it off the car, measure again after 24hrs if it is below 12.8v but above 12.5v you may be OK If you get measurements below 12.5v you will have a battery issue.

Dave

Cheers Dave, will have a look this weekend 

May possibly have a faulty battery by the sounds of it. Took it off tonight and charged using trickle charger until that registered full (roughly 2 hours charging). Measured voltage of 12.74, came back to it 2 hours later and now measures 12.4, granted I should probably have left it overnight but wanted to do a quick test tonight by taking it off the car. 

So quick update as it's been a while. Managed to change the level sensor again. Bought a working second hand one but a different style (cylindrical instead of a wedge shape), and it's working fine! Even though both part numbers are listed as compatible it would appear I needed the cylindrical style for whatever reason. Monitoring the battery closely using bimmerlink and similar apps. Is there a 'normal' acceptable charge level? Took it off the trickle charger a week ago and was on 77% SOH and 70AH out of 80. Did notice that the remote worked a lot better for the next couple of days after taking it off charge, but now again takes a few clicks to get it to respond. Checked for amp draw and it idles at 2.4a when car is off and does read 0 after 15-20 mins of being locked so assuming if I have any more battery drain issues it's the battery itself rather than something draining it? Cheers.

Morning Joe

The fact that your not seeing any current draw after 15/30mins (car asleep) would indicate no drain. So suspect the Battery

When you look at Realoem for part numbers if you double click the part number it will bring up a list of alternates and the models they were used in that period,  on some will have not compatible against them so check carefully.

The most accurate way to check the battery's health is check the voltage at the under bonnet charge points with a multi meter when the car is asleep my X5 measures 12.5v anything less than 12v would mean either the battery needs charging or it is on it's way out.

Dave

 

 

Cheers Dave will look at voltage tonight. I assume the car will still 'sleep' with the bonnet up when locked?

Yes Joe the car will go to sleep

Dave

Been a while, just for an update, I fitted the other 'cylindrical' style of sensor that realoem specified and it's working great now. Not sure whether the other 'wedge' style was just faulty and a coincidence but the cylindrical one worked for me. Thanks again Dave for all the help, really appreciate it.