E87 Fault Codes

[Jeags]

Hi all,

Just fitted cruise control and successfully coded it using inpa and tool32. While I was in inpa, I decided to scan for codes and found a fair list of errors. The only issue I'm really having at the moment is that the key fob seems to work intermittently when locking/unlocking the car. I had it replaced just over a year ago and it was working fine for the first 6 months. Wondering if anyone can see a link with this and one of the below codes?

JBBF - A6CF, A6E8

MRS - 93D0

DME/DDE - 4A6E, 4A07, 4A10, 4B37, 4A27, 4D03

DSC - 5E50

CAS - A0B3

FZD - A670

KLIMA - 9C6C

 

Cheers,

 

Joe

[Greydog]

Morning Joe

Welcome to the Forum

The only code I recognise as affecting locking is A6E8 I have seen it on 2 x Z4 BMW's on both occasions a new key fixed it. One of them had had the Key battery changed twice each time the fix lasted around 3 or 4 months.

I would clear the lot make sure the battery is fully charged and correctly registered to the chassis then run the car and check what comes back. It looks like you may have several that return Glow Plugs and controller and AUC sensor for sure.

Good luck

Dave

[Jeags]

Thanks for the reply, Dave. I got a new exide battery for it last year but didn't realise it needed registering. It's the same capacity and type as the old one. I fully charged it last week and the registered it to see if it would help. I did change the glow plugs for Bosch ones last week but looks like nothings changed. I'll buy those sensors and try and find a control module for the glow plugs to change. Think I should get a new battery sensor (ibs)? Trying to clear as many codes as I can within financial reason! As for the key, I had a firm program me a new key last year as the other died, would it be weak already after a year? Cheers.

[Greydog]

Hi Joe

My 2003 X5 4.6is has 2 keys one is original the spare is a Genuine BMW spare my E70 X5 3.0d 2007 both keys are original and still working. The key batter should be recharged when in the car 

Definitely check the IBS sensor I learned the hard way if replacing Glow plugs on a BMW change the controller while your in there it saves grief later.

If the car is running OK then prioritise the bits to change and the things that don't effect running do as and when

Dave

 

 

[Jeags]

Cheers Dave, will change ibs sensor and see if that helps anything. With regards to battery, I have a trickle charger that I left on the battery overnight to fully charge the battery, the charger itself said the battery was full but when I look through bimmercode, the state of charge is and has always been 57%. Wondering whether it's something to do with IBS or whether my charger isn't doing much? Going to order controller for glow plugs and do a change, the only time I see it is on cold days the idle is a bit lumpy for the first 10 seconds. 

[Greydog]

Morning

1st Only charge the battery and check voltages at the charge points under the bonnet.

2nd Voltage measured using a Multi Meter at the charge points should be 12.5/12.8v Engine off car asleep, this shows a healthy Battery. 

Next check the voltage with the engine running it should be 14.5/14.8v this indicates a healthy Alternator.

If the battery is charged directly it should be disconnected from the car to avoid possible damage to control units or sensors.

After engine start it can take 15mins to replenish the battery 

Dave

 

[Jeags]

Thanks for the reply Dave,

 

Yes, when I trickle charge it, I use the + post under the bonnet. Will have a look at the voltage tonight, cheers again.

[Jeags]

So just checked voltage with multimeter and it is 11.4v with the engine and ignition off. When running it hovers around 14.3 to 14.5v which leads me to suspect I have a drain somewhere. The battery is a 12 month old Exide so shouldn't be failing already. Any ideas how I go about identifying where the drain is coming from?

Cheers,

Joe

[Greydog]

Hi joe

First when you checked the voltage was the car asleep (tell tale on the Gearchange gone out? I would open the bonnet but close the car and leave it for at least 15mins check the gearchange light is out. If the voltage is still low, 11.4v then I would first make sure no accessories are plugged into the Cigarette lighter sockets or power outlets. Then with the battery fully charged start pulling fuses one at a to find the drain.

Good Hunting 

Dave

[Jeags]

I did it whilst washing it so potentially not Dave. Thanks for the info again, will have a look tomorrow and if still the same will start pulling fuses! Thanks again, it's got aftermarket stereo and headlights so will start there I think.

Cheers,

Joe 

[Jeags]

So control module for glow plugs came today so fitted that. Still looking at battery drain issue but still getting these codes:

4A07 Generator (Layer_BSD)

4A10 Bitserielle Data Interface BSD

4B37 Condition sensor (Layer_QLT)

From googling it seems as if they're linked? I cleaned the contacts running to and from the alternator and all have continuity. Was hoping to find a bad connection but haven't. I've always had issues with the oil condition sensor as it reads inactive and won't let me reset service interval for oil. Changed the sensor for a new 3rd party one which didn't work and then tried a 2nd hand OEM one to no avail. Could have been unlucky with the 2nd hand one but any other ideas? Cheers.

[Greydog]

Morning joe

At the battery connections check carefully the 2 small wires they get damaged easily. Then check the alternator is correct, I have seen similar problems with a neighbours 5 series he fitted a new alternator (alternator brought from GSF) he was assured it was correct for the car. With him I checked www.realoem.com got the correct Part Number and alternator size 120A, the one fitted was 150A. GSF were very good when asked they checked and confirmed the 150A was wrong swapped for a 120A and all his problems were gone. 

I had alternator/battery drain issues with one of my AMG's in the early 2000's Dealer fitted new Battery no change (under warranty fortunately) In the end I changed the Voltage regulator myself problem fixed. So check the Voltage Regulator as well

Dave

 

[Jeags]

Thanks for the reply Dave,

Sorry, which 2 small wires? Do you mean the IBS cable? I will check, it looks like it has not been changed though but I could be wrong. Thanks again,

Joe

[Jeags]

So just did some investigating on the error codes. When the car is running, it sits at 14/13.9v which was a little low. Went under the car and checked the wiring to the oil condition sensor, wiring intact but with ignition on, the pins measure 7v and 8v when car is running, does anyone know if this is right? Also noticed as soon as it is disconnected, the voltage goes up to 14.7/14.8. Tried following the wire up but couldn't see what it goes to, anyone have any ideas please? Cheers.

[Jeags]

And also the error codes disappear when I disconnect the sensor apart from the sensor itself and all reappear when connected back up.

[Greydog]

Definitely seems your oil sensor needs checking, plus the loom for continuity 

My guess would be the sensor I have changed a few over the years not seen them causing those issues though.

Dave

 

 

[Jeags]

Yes sounds like it. Will check the loom when I next get chance. Any ideas where the loom terminates? I managed to follow it up so far last night but couldn't see where it went. I am also assuming there should be 12v across the pins on the connector rather than my 8v? Cheers again Dave.

[Greydog]

I will take a look at INPA and see what information I can find

Just out with the dogs so it will be later

Dave

[Jeags]

Cheers Dave, Same here, have a good time.

[Greydog]

Morning

Well INPA not very helpful so reverting to an old friend in BMW see if he can get me a wiring diagram. 

I assume (always dangerous) that the sensor wiring will terminate at either the Junction Box module or the Footwell Module 

Dave

[Jeags]

Morning,

Great, thanks for your help Dave. I look forward to hearing his response. Cheers 

Joe 

[Greydog]

I spoke with him and he tells me the probability is the sensor has failed he also said they have records of connector damage/failure the only loom damage they have records of is rodent damage.

He says check that the connector hasn't been changed before ( BMW supply replacements with 3 white wires ?) If its been changed check the colder connection. He says the dealerships use a repair connector with 3 white cables ?? (just to confuse the innocent) the wiring diagram shows its connections but doesn't help with its route

He will send it tomorrow 

Dave

[Jeags]

Thanks again Dave,

Fron what I could tell, the cable and connector looks unchanged, can't see any wires from the connector as the wires have plastic insulation. Will look to source a new sensor then. Cheers,

Joe 

[Jeags]

Also just looking at replacements now, the part real OEM specifies off my vin is 12617607910. This looks more cylindrical than the one I took off the car originally. The original one looked more like a duck beak style. Wondered whether the wrong sensor has previously been fitted and I've just replaced the wrong sensor with another wrong one? Possibly condition sensor rather than oil level?

[Greydog]

Before you do anything Double click the part number in realoem it should give you a list of (A) alternate part numbers/upgrades (B) a list of other models its used in

Dave