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Error Codes....please help!


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Hi guys, I wonder if anybody can help? My Daughter has a 2005 Series 1. It recently went into "limp mode" and a big orange engine light came on. I have run it through diagnostics and it has thrown the following error codes:
2CF3
2CF1
2D07
P1637
P110d

They all appear to be related to the throttle. Could anybody give me some advice. Much appreciated. I need to get her back on the road as she's using my car!
Thanks
Dave

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Thanks, how do I reset the throttle and check the alternator output.  I tried to use the "secret" menu on the dash to check the voltage, but it won't work!

 

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Morning Dave

As Stu has said first check the battery and make sure it is fully charged. If you disconnect the battery for 30mins minimum it will reset all codes. So good opportunity to disconnect and do an overnight charge. Are we dealing with a petrol or diesel variant ?

The codes point to the Throttle body and its harness (so I guess petrol), it's not unheard of for the harness's to chafe and cause issue so test it carefully and check it for any sign of wear or damage.

If you are not aware use www.raeloem.com to identify correct parts for replacement it is an online BMW parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model.

Good Luck

Dave

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Resetting the throttle position on a BMW E46 requires You to enter the car and turn the ignition on. When doing so, make sure to put Your foot on the brake and push it down when turning the ignition on. At this point, only the cars accessories should have booted up. When this happens, push down the accelerator as well. Hold it down for roughly 20 seconds and then release the accelerator and turn off the car, to complete the reset. If Youre having trouble doing this procedure, consult Your owners manual. It should contain a detailed breakdown of each step, as well as a walk-through to reset the throttle position sensor.

try this, it’s for an older 3 series, but it should work on the 1. 
 

to check the alternator and battery, start the car and put a multimeter on the battery terminals. 
you should see a voltage of around 14v dc. 
switch the engine off and hopefully the battery will show around 13.4? V dc. 
go back and test the battery in about 30 minutes and it should read the same. This will show the alternator and battery working and holding charge. Anything around 12v, replaced the battery. 
my x5 was going into limp mode and throttle position abnormalities due to a failing battery. 
 

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Hi Guys, thanks for the advice.  I have tried to reset the throttle, but nothing appear to happen.  I tested the battery.  When car is running it says 14.2v.  When stopped it says 12.7v.  Still in limp mode!  Any other ideas?

Thanks

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Have you disconnected the battery, if you haven't all fault codes will remain as "Fault Present" so nothing will change? Your battery seems OK by those figures.

The Battery Disconnect is a Dealer trick to reset faults without a full diagnostic check If you don't have a BMW capable code reader you may need the help of a Garage or may be a member on here near you to run a check.

Dave

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So I used my diagnostic software to reset the "adaptations" (whatever they are!) and the car is no longer in limp mode, but the engine light is still on and the car is no still throwing the error codes?

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2 hours ago, Crewey said:

So I used my diagnostic software to reset the "adaptations" (whatever they are!) and the car is no longer in limp mode, but the engine light is still on and the car is no still throwing the error codes?

The adaptations would be the throttle position reset. 
How is the idle? (When the limp mode is off) 

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Can you swap batteries? 
 

mine did the same and even on a long run, would sometimes just enter limp mode for no reason. Revs would be up and down… scanned and cleared the fault, all ok, revs back to normal. Got home and stopped, then started and limp mode would be back on. 
turned out to be a dodgy battery, which was charging fine, but would not hold a charge. …. Then my alternator stopped and left me stranded. 

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That would be my next thought, unplug the throttle body/ maf sensor and see if the idle changes, mine cleared after the dodgy battery replacement but a faulty throttle body would also cause irregular revs at idle. 
 There is a large plug on the side of the maf sensor that you can unplug while the car is idling. This should change the idle noticeably. If it doesn’t, that would point toward an issue there.
 

@Greydog Would the throttle body idle revs clear when the codes are erased? 

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Morning Stu

Dave's original post mentions stored fault codes that indicate Throttle body and or Harness they need to be checked/tested.

The throttle body is on the Inlet manifold the Maf is separate normally near the Air filter. In my experience when the throttle body is failing/fails the car will start and idle but there will be no power if unplugged often it wont start/run. If the codes are erased the car will run normally until the fault re-occurs. The question is is the fault in the throttle body or the loom?

When the Maf is failing/failed the car will be difficult to start and idle erratic if the Maf is unplugged idle will often even out as the ECU reverts to a fall back map

Dave

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Thanks guys, the car starts but idles erractically and won't rev over 3 thousand.  Initially I cleared the codes and it ran ok for about 5 miles.  When I restarted it the next day the codes were back.  Now, when I erase them they come straight back!

 

Dave

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Hi Dave 

Which engine are we dealing with ? Rough Idle can be several things Plugs Coil Packs coil pack loom Injectors Injector Loom, also check the fuel pressure and compression. If that all checks OK then you are back to your original post.

Normally if a Fault Code can be cleared it is a symptom of something else. If the fault code is persistent as in your case then the items that faulted need thorough investigation or replacement.

Dave

 

 

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Hi, it's the 2.0 litre petrol.  I have changed the plugs and coil packs already.  The erratic idle goes up and down quite dramtically.  This issue came out of the blue .  Initially the error codes appeared to be random (see first post).  When I Googled them,one was related to an oxygen sensor, one was related to signal from the alternator , one was the throttle potentiometer and one was the throttle actuator.  I'm completely baffled.

Thanks

Dave

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Morning Dave

That is a lot more information which helps but also gives more options for fault cause

First as Stu suggested have you unplugged the MAF to see the effect on idle. Check all the Vacuum pipes and Crank case ventilation carbon filter? Check the Inlet manifold for Air leaks ? They are the obvious physical things that come to mind. An air or Vacuum leak will give erratic idle and possibly misfire at higher revs. Have you checked the simple things with the car idling take the fuel cap off, does anything change? The fuel tank breather system hoses and valve in the engine bay? The fuel injector system wiring, and fuel lines, unplug individual injectors see if anything changes? Air and Vacuum hoses harden and crack with age as do plastic connectors.

If an Oxygen sensor is failing/failed (they have a life of about 100k) there is a fall back map in the ECU so while MPG may fall a little idle isn't normally affected. Your Alternator is charging at the correct rate from your previous post. The Throttle body code that points to a failing/failed throttle body  The symptoms of a failed throttle body are in my experience (have seen a few on several makes as well as BMW over the years) car will start and idle but will not rev or when in gear no power. 

While there seems a lot to check and test it isn't outside the scope of a home mechanic and could all be done in a Saturday morning.

A scan with a BMW specific scanning tool will give far more accurate information I use primarily BMW 1.4.0 or INPA/ISTA these systems don't just give a Code they actually describe the faulted item and its position. As an example I had a parking sensor fault, the scan showed PDC sensor Centre rear Right.

Dave

 

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UPDATE

Hi guys, so  he plot thickens!  I deleted all of the error codes, I then reset the adaptations again and got it to relearn the "stop dogs"?  It then started normally and ran ok.  I checked all of the realtime data on my diagnostics and nothing looked untoward.  Switched it on and off a few times and then took it for a run for a couple of miles.  It ran perfectly and still is?  I am really confused now, as it will probably go again and I still have no idea what the issue is.

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BMW wiring designers like common earth points, I had a lot of strange intermittent issues with my 4.4 turned out to be one of the earth points in the boot. Took it off then cleaned and remounted it with electrical contact paste everything cleared. I worked my way through all the main earth points just in case.

Also when you have been doing stuff you may have moved a loom ?

Dave

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