Good morning ladies and gentlepersons, I’m new to this forum But have been visiting from when I bought my 2010 320d touring,

I have only one issue that I’m wondering if anyone can advise on,

The Yellow engine management light comes on for about 10 seconds then goes out, this happens every 3-4 mins, there are no ill effects with car, drives like new, no power loss, no strange noises.

My obd reader says boost pressure actuator fault, but reading the forums there always seems to be a loss of power with this,

The car has 60k on it and hadn’t mover for 5 months before I got it, only doing 300 miles in 2 years, renewed brakes and changed oil and its running sweet

Any Ideas ??

Morning Gus

Welcome to the Forum

First what OBD reader are you using? Is it BMW specific, if not it may indicate the symptom rather than the issue, if the EML has been triggered normally a fault will be stored which will need clearing after repair. As an example mine will say something like "Thermal oil temp sensor fault not present", I then know there is an intermittent fault which needs investigation.

As to the problem I would start with the simplest and cheapest as you say the light flickers I would check the engine loom for any signs of damage, move the loom see if it affects the EML. Check and clean all the connectors with a good Contact cleaner time consuming but not expensive.

As your car saw very little use for a considerable time it is possible that moisture has got into connectors and there is corrosion on the contacts particularly if it was parked outside

Just my thoughts hope they help 

Dave

 

Cheers for the Reply,

I have a foxwell bmw/mini reader, It worked to clear all the brake warnings after I had replaced them,

the warning light and ping is random, at first I thot it was when the car was cold, but it still happens when car is warm, but….definitely happens less on longer runs,

I will try unplugging and reconnecting stuff at the weekend and see what I can break 😊

Thanks again

Hi Gus

Have you tried the old "disconnect the battery" trick works like a hard reset. Disconnect leave for half an hour reconnect, I have read it has cured some bizarre things worth a shot, Neg first then Pos some folks touch the two leads together.

If your cleaning connectors make sure it's a good electrical contact cleaner not WD40, sensitive beasts we own.

Dave

Cheers Dave

I hate being a noob to a car, not got a clue with this one, had a Rangerover with a BMW 2.5 diesel engine in it, Now thats a car with faults and many of them lol

Will give that battery thing a try, and got some good cleaner from a sparky at work, well... he said its good

Before I go disconnecting stuff would you know if the Radio has a code, as I don't seem to have one written down anywhere in the book I have, cant help with model but it says professional on it,

I cant clear fault, as soon as i clear it, scanner retests and its back,

Once again

Thanks for reply, appreciated

Gus

Morning Gus

Good thinking on the code my old bus the code isn't needed as radio components are scattered around the car, I talked with my brother inlaw who has a 2014 5 series he said try this.

    Insert your car key into the ignition, leaving it in the "off" position.

    Depress and hold the "M" button on your radio.

    Turn the car key to the "on" position and turn on the radio with the "M" button remaining depressed.

    Write down the serial number that appears on your radio's display.

    Talk to your BMW Dealer they will need the serial number and in his case the Vin even though they service his car?? Or there are several code retrieval sites but they often carry a cost but are quick in my brother inlaws case quicker than BMW.

If the fault code won't reset that is the place to start, check the connections. If it is an actuator fault there are several companies that rebuild/repair them at sensible cost many with next day return.

Technology is a brilliant thing !!!!

Good Luck

Dave

Have you tried changing the battery? 
if it looses amps, only for a second, it could bring up the light. This could also explain why it comes on less on a long run. 
worth buying a battery from the scrap yard to test. 
 

check that the alternator is giving out the correct voltage and battery is holding charge. 

Cheers for the replys

engineer friend tested Alternator and said it all seemed fine, battery is only a year old and seems ok, but i have receipt in book and it has a two year warranty, so i will take car to garage and get them to test,

disconnected plugs Actuator and cleaned connections, which looked spotless

Is there a diy way to test Actuator ?, if not I would be as well getting a new or repaired done as garage would charge for test then charge for repair lol

Its just a bit worrying, as I said, there are no ill effects, .......yet...... :)

just done a 20mile run, no light.....

fingers crossed

Morning Gus

Let us know progress, has the fault cleared?

Dave

took it a 20 mile run, no light on,

used obd reader, came up with lots of faults, guessing it was all the bits and bobs i took apart, cleared all codes

and, its the first time i've been able to clear the boost actuator fault, and it didnt come back

will see over the next couple of days and update post

thanks again for your help

Gus

Don't you just love a cheap fix 😁

Well thats 200miles done from sunday morning and no Light

looks like that was the fix,

Thanks again for the help, next question coming soon 🤣🤣🤣🤣