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Hi Dave, I’ve been told about how BMW will just sell a complete turbo unit which I can imagine will be very expensive. I will have a look on that website and thank you for your help, it’s really appreciated, cheers.

Hi Zeke Welcome to the Forum You may need a Turbo Specialist for this as BMW do't repair anything they just replace complete assemblies Try www.realoem.com if you aren't aware it is a BMW online parts list either put the part number in the search box or the last 7 digits of your Vin it will call up your model but as said above a BMW Dealer would charge for and fit a complete Turbo assembly Good luck Dave

Hi everyone. I have just joined this forum as I have just bought my first ever BMW (Its the 320i 4 door). It is getting prepped by the dealer but part of the deal was they will fit a rear spoiler to the car for me, but I need to provide them with it. I am looking for something subtle, in gloss black and good quality. I like the one below with the cut in the middle. Any advice/guidance which one to buy please and where from?

Morning Stu Sorry it took a little while Friday afternoon had to nip down to Wincanton Saturday Judging a Gundog Working Test and yesterday Dog Training day (you jinxed it with your Slow day) So very confusing while the Wiring Diagram shows the rear lower tailgate lock and actuator button it doesn't give wire colours (pictures attached) I checked the Bus system that didnt help either according to the wiring diagrams all pre-facelift models (up to 2004) should be the same All I can think is either there is a short somewhere (through robber cable gromit at the top) So not sure if it helps or not Looked at the PDC and it points toward the PDC controller (in the boot down by the battery) Dave

Hi everyone, I have a 520d lci auto and the actuator is on the way out as even when parked it’s on boost as it flutters when I turn it off. I’ve had a trusted mechanic have a look and he said it’ll be the electronic actuator playing up but when I look for a new one there’s different numbers on what look like identical actuators. I will attach a photo and it the 2nd row of numbers that is always on each actuator but the top and bottom row are usually different which I’m unsure which one will fit as I’ve been told by others that the actuators from the manual and automatic cars are different Thanks in advance for any help.

Morning Phil Not sure if you can get just the Glass Lens all that I see in realoem is the Headlamp Insert which looks like the full unit Part Number 63121383918 I guess you have checked all the BMW Dismantlers to see if they can help Dave

Thank you. I’ll give that a go too

Mine kept doing that and it was the throttle body. I would be looking around the air intake and hoses. Disconnect the maf sensor and see if any values change on the live data on the software.

Hi Dave, thanks for your reply, actually it's just the glass lens I need. The part number I come up with is 63128354554 which apparently supercedes to 63128354532. Thanks, Phil Driscoll

Spoke too soon. EML came back on with the P0050 o2 sensor code 🤦‍♂️

Greatly appreciate your reply and advice. My brother has BMW software fortunately and has reset the adaptations. Re-ran for codes etc and all clear. Took it out and it’s back to its old self. Fingers crossed it all realigns and calms down following the reset. thanks again Adam

Morning Adam. my x5 was showing o2 sensor issues and lean mixture etc…. Turns out the throttle body was at fault. Clear the adaptations and take it for a spin. i was amazed how much power I had lost once replaced the throttle body. also check for splits in the intake line.. the rubber pipes between the throttle body and the MAF sensor as this will give lean readings and O2 issues with over fueling.

Hi all, New to the forum and also new to the 6 series! Hoping you might be able to help with my situation. ive had the car about a month and after a week it threw up a code, which turned out to be a stretched timing chain. The garage I bought from replaced this via their specialist FOC which was great. However since the replacement I had a P0050 o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 code. I replaced the o2 sensor (after much research into the correct BOSCH sensor - so many variations). All good for a day! Now the code is back. Adding to this, I now had the Po326 code thrown up ‘knock sensor 1 circuit range / performance bank 1 or single sensor’. Quite annoying. I wonder whether this all relates to the work on the timing chain? Or do I need to reset adaptations. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated cheers Adam

Thanks Dave! mine is a 2002 3.0 petrol. the donor is a 2001 3.0 petrol. You’re a star for looking…. Or is it a slow day? Haha cheers!

Hi Phil Welcome to the Forum I just ran a quick search on realoem and it doesn't recognose that part number what I get for the RH Headlamp (European Models) is 63128354524 which superceeded 63121392036 Have you tried BMW Classic Section to see if they can help? Dave

Hi, looking for a headlight from RHD 850i drivers side. Part number 1392144. Thanks Phil

Hi Stu Good to know that its all back together 😁 I have wiring diagrams in ISTA so what model and year did the replacement parts come from and I will check, yours is 3.0ltr petrol right ? I will put a list together and send it Dave

Morning James First tools Halfords will probably have everything you need the same applies to most Motor Factors. Remember to check prices don't assume that your getting the best price I use EuroCar Parts for most spares if they don't have it in stock generally they can get it in 24hrs A decent Socket set and decent set of Combination spanners (open one end ring at the other) plus Flat and cross head screw drivers would be enough to get you going, get a box of rubber gloves as well saves a load of scrubbing later😁 If you need sockets bigger than those in your set you can buy them singley, same applies to Combination spanners Sump plug a 17mm socket is fine, slacken it off then unscrew with your fingers (remember to buy a magnet on and extending handle so you can fish it out of the old oil in the catch tank) Your engine will hold around 6 or 7 litres 2 4.5/5ltr cans are fine and oil stores well, my thought is transporting the used oil to your local recycling centre for disposal you will have more than will fit into a 5ltr can so you may well need to find a couple of plastic bottles to help out Dave

Hi again @Greydog, when you say “Oil Drian plug 17mm spanner” is that just a socket? Thanks &nbsp

Thanks @Greydog, I really appreciate your advice and all the detail! Where do you get the copper crush washers from? Also, I’ll be purchasing the required tools as don’t have anything suitable (only worked on bicycles previously!) Would you recommend any particular online retailer for tools. I imagine I’ll be purchasing a fair few in the coming months as want to be able to do other servicing jobs including replacing brake discs and pads. With regards to the oil, as you know you can get 5L and 1L bottles, can I get 2 x 5L and then keep the remainder for the next oil change, or does it not keep? Thanks again!

Morning James Welcome to the Forum You will find several Videos online that should help this is one of the simple jobs that with some basic tools is easy to do Tools I use are Oil Filter Cap 36mm Socket (You can buy special filter cap sockets) Oil Drian plug 17mm spanner Large oil Catch tank (mine is 16ltr) magnet Funnel, Ramps Trolley jack and axel stands a few disposable cloths Parts Oil around 7ltrs (I use Mobil 1. 5-30 LL04 which meets BMW specs Oil Filter OEM filters are MANN which I get from my local Auto Factors. I always fit a new Copper Crush washer to the Sump Drain Plug Method I run the engine to warm the oil then drive the front wheels onto the ramps, put the trolley jack under the rear diff and raise the rear until the car is level and put the axel stands under the rear jacking points. Next working above I undo the Filter cap and remove the filter have a cloth handy to catch drips and spills I put the filter into plastic bag (donated by a local supermarket) wipe the filter housing clean add a little oil to the "O" rings on the new filter and put it in and replace the cap. Now under the car there is a drop down flap that covers the Drain Plug take it off then slide the catch tank under the drain plug and remove the plug allow the oil to drain. If you dropped the drain plug into the catch tank that's when you will need the magnet (We have all done it) recover the drain plug remove the old crush washer and replace it then put the drain plug back and tighten it, hand tight is OK it doesn't need to be Gorrilla tight. give the area a wipe so it is clean and you will see any leaks. Now up top put the Funnel into the oil filler and fill with oil after putting in 5 ltr let it settle and check the level and underneath for any signs of leaks, start the engine let it run a short while turn off and let it settle check the level and top up check underneath for any leaks and replace the drop down flap. Chack around the filter housing wipe everything down. The old oil you can now pur into the oil cans that the new oil came in wipe out the catch tank and put all thoily cloths into the bag with the fiter ready for taking to your local tip Job done Hope this helps Dave

Hi, I have recently bought a 2020 520d Touring G31 and I want to do an oil and filter change. I have not this on a car before, I know it’s pretty simple, but just wondered if there were any YouTube sources that you’d recommend please? Also which is the best oil to use? I want to save some money on labour and start to do some jobs myself but want to select the best products. I have had a bit of a look online but not sure if the sources I have found are recommended within the community. Thanks in advance for any pointers 🙂

Hi Dave Thanks for that. I am going to spend a bit more time on it just to get to the bottom of it all. I hve been quoted 420 Euros to remove and ultrasonically clean the dpf, but I am going to hold fire

Thanks @X5smw, I’ll check them out 👍

Morning James. first try quarry motors in Sheffield. They are really helpful.