All Activity

Thanks Greydog! I have not tried the battery unplug. But I have purchased Autel TS508 to try out and it found the error below from the ODBC scan. I tried to erase the DTC from this menu and the TPM is working again until I left the car for a few hours. Does anyone know what is causing the error? Thanks!

Morning Jim A Seat owned by a neighbours wife from new but only used for school run duties was completely clogged at lower miles than yours. Predictably the Dealer said new Turbo new EGR and a swathe of other parts £££, a local Diesel specialist stripped, cleaned and rebuilt everything and gave her the advice to give the car a good run at motorway speeds once a month. Years ago my son had issues with his Toyota pickup the dealer mechanic told him an "Italian Tune Up" (engine up to temp and keep revs over 2.5k for half an hour) needs doing every few weeks. As a Tree Surgeon he tended to be trundling around off road at slow speeds and low revs. With luck it's just the actuator mechanism Dave

Many thanks for your input Dave. My car does have twin turbos. I checked for play on the cold side of the larger/bottom turbo by removing the air intake but I take your point about the hot side taking more of a hammering. I can feel the actuator move at the vacuum box but I can't access or see the point where it connects to the turbo. I don't know if the flap moves freely - maybe the hot side is full of carbon as I tend to do short trips. Time to dig deeper so I've just dropped it off with a local turbo specialists who say they can run diagnostic tests and do a route cause analysis. The car has only done 55,000 miles, full service history with oil/filter changes every 4000 to 5000 miles so I'm hoping the turbo hasn't failed already 😟 Thanks Jim

Anyone selling a E30 Touring? Pref Black.

Hi Darren Think about how much you have saved at Main Dealer hourly rates 😁 Plus the satisfaction of a job well done Modern cars not designed to be DIY friendly 😅 the cynic in me thinks it is a ploy to drive us towards the dealer network. They will probably tell us they would never do that, yeah right 🤣 Well done Dave

Could also be a stuck idle control valve. Remove it and give it a shake… it should click clack noise opening freely.

Borrowed from another site… unplug the maf and clear the codes… see what happens. i think me and greydog are on the right lines

I have an old scanner hand held I had a body shop that I deliver paint to they ordered me a BMW MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR I replaced it on Saturday morning I did not disconnect the battery the car idled good so on Sunday morning I went for Gas and the car started to idle erratic and the service light came on so I put the old Sensor back and cleared the codes 1415 the car runs fine just erratic idle when stopped at a light Any Ideas thank you very much for getting back to me I appreciate it anything you can think of that I did wrong 😑

Hi Ronald. What scanner are you using? I have a cheap 110 obd unit, an autel eu705 (or something ) and a pc with bmw 1.4.0 programme on it. all give me an option to reset adaptations in the dme menu.

Thanks for the reply Dave, I’ve managed to get as far as the new cover on today. Couldn’t find my 1/4 to 3/8 torque adaptor to complete the cover so had to order another one. what a job to do, lots involved like you said. my gasket had tons of cracks in it so I’m not surprised it leaked.

Good morning thank you for reaching back to me I don’t know how to reset the perimeters and adjustments unless it is only to Disconnect the battery for 15 to 30 minutes is that something that I need to do thank you please let me know 🙏

when I put the new sensor in I only cleared the codes with my scanner did I have to disconnect the battery for 15 to 30 minutes so the computer would adjust to the new sensor I don’t know about any adjustments thank you for getting back to me

My thought is that the maf sensor is working correctly. did you reset the adjustments and parameters after replacing it? I agree with @Greydog. check the inlet pipe between the maf sensor and the throttle body for any cracks, especially on the elbow part. Throttle body could also be the issue. my x5 has the 3.0i engine and was all over the place with idle and cutting out etc. it was the throttle body which was faulty , but while I replaced it, I found the inlet pipe had little splits in it at the elbow folds and was leaking in air, confusing the mixture as the new maf sensor was saying one thing and the air ratio was another. The old maf sensor was reading a lower value and the engine had over compensated for it. Check for splits, reset the values and see where it goes.

Morning Jamie Welcome to the Forum I would think you need a feed from the Boost relief valve. Are there no instruction with your kit ? Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then check the engine section/inlet/turbo Dave

Morning JIm If memory serves your car has twin turbo's a small one for low/mid range and the bigger one below for mid/top end boost. The vacuum drive shifts boost to the larger turbo, so when you felt for any wobble which turbo were you feeling? and which side remember the exhaust side really does take a battering. From your description the Vacuum drive is working but the flap it operates into the large turbo or the turbo it's self needs some investigating Those are my thoughts Dave

@phill Thompson How did you get on with the Z3 - did you buy it ?

Morning Ronald Welcome to the Forum First it would be unlikely the a Starter would cause this fault code as the starter is underneath and the issue you have is at the top. A fault code indicates a problem it isn't necessarily the cause, start by looking for leaks in any of the Vacuum lines and hoses on the Inlet side after 13 years the hoses on your car will quite probably be dry and cracked in places. Also check all wiring and plugs if cleaning use a good electrical contact cleaner. The replacement you brought, is it correct for your model ? As an after thought check the engine mounts I am not sure whether your mounts have a vacuum link Dave

I have a problem with my 2007 525i erratic idle I scanned the vehicle came up with code 1415 replaced the MAS New from BMW it didn’t work service engine light went light came on I put my old Sensor in no light on just erratic idle need help please. Just frustrated I did have the starter replaced about 2 months ago I was at work and I couldn’t do it myself I think the problem may be there but repair facility refuses to look into it for something they might have been missed thank you

Bmw 635d soft top for sale 85000 miles on clock

I'm hoping someone can give me a few pointers. I have a 2012 E84 25D and recently I've been getting the following intermittent codes: 4862 Air System, Air to EGR Mass Flow, Plausibility 4873 Exhaust-Gas Recirculation Cooling, Plausibility 4530 Charing Pressure Control, Control Deviation The car drove fine, no loss of power. I removed the EGR and Cooler to check them and there was very little carbon and both clear. Both were replaced around 10k miles ago under the BMW recall. The car has now gone into limp mode and is making a weird noise when reved. It's quite at idle but makes a lowish pitched drone or whining noise when the engine is reved. It's not a high pitched whine that I would associate with the bearings in the turbo. I had a fondle of the turbo spindle when I had the intake pipe removed. It spins freely and I cant feel any play in the bearings. The car has only done 55,000 miles and has a full service history with oil changes every 4,000 miles so I'm hoping the turbo hasn't failed already. I thought I'd try and check out the control system first. I looked at the parts diagram for the turbo vacuum control and started trying to check things. Connected a vacuum gauge on the supply side and the vacuum appears steady so I don't think there is a leak on the supply side or vacuum tank. I removed the vacuum line from the part labelled Vacuum box (15) on the parts diagram and the droning/whining noise stops. I connected a syringe to the Vacuum box and as i draw a vacuum the noise returns. Turned the engine off and used the syringe to draw a vacuum while feeling the actuator arm under the vacuum box and the arms moves/returns freely when a vacuum is applied/released. I can't work out what this vacuum box operates. The actuator arm passes down through the exhaust manifold and is connected to the turbo. Can anyone tell me what this does or suggest any next steps to try and diagnose the problem? Thanks Jim

Hey im trying to fit a boost gauge to my bmw 1 series 116d , 200bhp And wondering if anyone has done before and could show us where and what hose to cut hose and fit extension and run a hose through fire wall to the gauge.

I would think after 2 years if they haven't sold they have binned it 😁 Dave

Hi Tino Just re-checked and you are correct 3 - Ethernet RX+ Confirmed 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal Confirmed 11 - Ethernet RX- Confirmed 12 - Ethernet TX+ Confirmed 13 - Ethernet TX- Confirmed I think your assumption on the ZF trans could well be right also if the resistor is toast it could well screw up the Diagnostics Keep digging Dave

Okay so we can rule out the Can protocol being different then. And lol, yes the germans do like to be in control 😂 Well if most Japanese E90's are pinned like this then BMW definitely had a means to connect to these vehicles with just this amount of pins present. If it's supposed to be 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 16, and the one i'm working on only has 4, 5, 6, 8, 14 & 16 then is there a chance that the missing ones are the key to allowing other scanners to connect to the vehicle? Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the function of those missing pins (3, 9, 11, 12 & 13) are: 3 - Ethernet RX+ 9 - TD (Tachometer Display) Signal / Engine RPM Signal 11 - Ethernet RX- 12 - Ethernet TX+ 13 - Ethernet TX- But so I hear that these are non standard pins and should not interfere with diagnostics. Ahh the diagram you pulled for 2007 only is the same pinout on one of the parts cars I have. The one with the ZF transmission. So there's a good chance that for that particular year, any E90 320i that came with a ZF trans probably had that pinout instead of the one were looking at now has. I found out that the capacitor is actually a resistor. Since that is the case, I wonder if it's interfering with diagnostics? I will do some diagnostics on my end to see if there is a module that is causing the issue. Many thanks again 🙏

Morning Tino I don't think they use a different Can protocol as Dealers still need to communicate with BMW from time to time and we know how the German mind like s to be in control 🤣 The Can protocol should be D can. Wiring Diagram shows 2.0i 2007 on as Pins 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 all populated colours as follows 3, Red 4, Brown 5, Brown/black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 8, Blue/Yellow trace 9, Black 11, Blue/Red trace 12, Green 13, Red/Green trace 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace My wiring diagrams for the 2.8i are exactly the same. Pre 2007 (2004 up to 2007) It shows Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 16 populated Wire colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 6, White/Yellow trace (D can H) 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 14, White/Blue trace (D can L) 16, Red/Yellow trace Just found another Diagram marked 2007 only shows pins 1, 4, 5, 7, 9, 16, colours are 1, Green/Brown trace 4, Brown 5, Brown/Black trace 7, White/Violet trace 9, Black 16, Red/Yellow trace (not sure if this helps or hinders) Again as far as I am aware Left and Right hand cars are the same If it is JBE issues they are easy to swap but will need a Diagnostic scan capable of registering the replacement (I have INPA/ISTA) BMW make a big deal of it (can only be done by them) but as always it can be done I have changed a few Footwell modules and Junction boxes Good Luck Dave