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Hi 90 k is not a lot of miles when was it last serviced ? Are there any leaks anywhere? So the vapour does it smell ? Sweet smell (could be anti freeze/coolant) has it needed topping up? Oil smell is obvious Next check and test and change if required the Oil Temp sensor I believe it's on the Filter body on your model. See if that stabilises the Gauge Dave

Thanks for the answer, it has got 90,000 miles and some service history it is not full service history but it does have some paperwork, also i have to mention there is no misfires or any signs that something could be wrong just the smoke or vapour whatever that is. And it is the oil temperature fluctuating.

Morning Nathan Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings Sounds like a stuck lifter Dave

Morning Andrei Welcome tot the Forum and Seasons Greetings If oil temp/pressure is fluctuating and from the video I would guess there is a top end wear problem Valve guide seals or more. What mileage has the car covered what is it's service history Jenksey on here used a Valve stem seal additive with some success but if things are split or really worn it would struggle to be effective. Good Luck Dave

Hello everyone, just bought a bmw e92 325i 2.5l and i have 2 questions, first one is if that gauge under the rev meter on the dash is the oil temperature and if it is ok to fluctuate. For example when I am driving slowly, or in traffic that temperature is rising slightly to 80/90/100 degrees, however if I am driving constantly on the motorway at 70mph it drops to 70 degrees. just wanted to know if that is normal or if there could be a problem and second is if the vapour in the video is ok or if i should worry, it still comes out after driving the car. IMG_8731.mov

IMG_0409.movIMG_0409.movIMG_0409.movIMG_0407.movOk guys so new to this forum, on the Facebook group but had not much feed back tonight, i currently own a 2015 1 series sport, I was driving tonight coming onto motorway, slowed down from 6th gear due to a truck needing my lane as it was a dual lane slip road, in slowing down and put car into wrong gear so when I set off I set off in high gear, i don’t know what gear I put it into but my guess is I put into 4th as apposed to second either when I set off the car was then vibrating, I pulled up to the traffic light and it was continuing to vibrate and it had a loud idle, now there was no burning smell, no smoking, no loss of power and no change in how the car drives, can any body please help with advise IMG_0408.mov IMG_0406.mov

Hello mate thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of information. I think the engine is a n13 I had the car serviced in may and when I pick the car up and looked at the invoice they hadn’t change the fuel filter when I questioned the garage they said the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump so I said don’t it have a in line filter and they said no Thank you

Thanks for the reply. I've replaced the battery several times with new ones ( I should have mentioned that in the post) and unfortunately I lost the other fob. I've been procrastinating replacing it due to the cost. So I guess the next step is the scan tool. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks.

Depending on engine, it could be a failing glow plug? Or maf leak? A misfire will cause a random jump and affect fuel consumption. Do you notice any fuel smell when the juddering happens?

Hi Martin Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings A very difficult problem to diagnose with such limited information but here goes. As you say the consumption/vacuum gauge drops when it occurs my guess would be more Engine than Transmission. I would start at the front of the engine and check belts, pulley's and tensioners. Look for any fraying or side wear on belts. I would also carry out a Diagnostic check as I do have my own copy of BMW ISTA/INPA no injector faults logged and make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are in good condition, check fuel pressure etc Good Luck Dave

2008 bmw e70 3.0sd. I have a vibration/ judder periodolically. Have noticed when it happens fuel consumption gauge drops and mpg gets worse. Have had gearbox serviced( oil and filter) wondering if it could be transmission problem..

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings If you have the warning light have you (a) changed the Battery in the Fob ? (b) Tried a different Fob (you should have 2) They are the obvious first thoughts/action If that doesn't work then a proper Diagnostic scan is needed with a BMW capable programme Dave

I have a 2010 750 LiX with a continuous dash display that says I need to replace the battery in the key fob. Sometimes the engine won't start or stop unless I hold the fob against the steering wheel. Any thoughts?

Morning Mike Fuse box should be near side of the engine bay against the bulkhead so easy to get at with a couple of main loom penetrations into the Cabin. Never liked hacking into cables with splices etc 😁 Dave

Morning Shaun Welcome to the Forum We love Christmas puzzles 😁 but a few more clues may help us the code poo87 just tells us you have a fuel pressure issue ?? What engine is it ? When did it have its last service (not just an oil change) ? Possible causes could be, (1) Faulty Fuel pump or Fuel pump relay (2) Clogged/Blocked Fuel Filter (3) Faulty fuel pressure sensor (4) Faulty fuel pressure regulator (5) Leaking or damaged fuel lines (6) Air/vacuum leaks on the inlet side Those are just the simple ones that spring to mind, the code you have is a Generic code a Diagnostic scan with a BMW capable scanner may give more information. Always remember any code should be treated as a symptom not always the answer Hope this helps Have a Great Christmas Dave

I don't think I have any fuses in the glove box. My front fuse box is in the engine compartment. The stereo will be a good place to find one. 😊

There is a fuse board in the glove box? Or the stereo will use a switched positive.

Hello I have a bmw f21 when the car is cold it starts and runs fine but when it gets hot it won’t start and comes up with error code p0087 any idea please

Thanks guys. Yes I have done that for my dashcam but I was hoping not to have to run another lead the length of the car. Thought there might be something I could tap into in the dashboard area. I only need a very low current supply for an immobiliser I'm making.

Morning! As Dave suggested, use a piggy back fuse from the fuse board. I used to do this regular with VW campers for stereos as they don’t have switched power as standard. What is it you need to power?

Hi James You could try companies such as ECU Testing or Cartronix another alternative may be get the Part number and search Dismantlers like Quarry Motors Before replacing it though some Talc puffed along and around the boot seals then a wash may give clues to where it is getting in, but more important check the boot floor seal/drain is not blocked. If you have a sun roof make sure the drains are clear Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Not looked at a 2 series but with a friend of our son we took a piggyback feed with it's own fuse from the fuse box Take a look at your fuse box look for something like seat adjustment, don't know what you want to power but we used a 10 amp as the feed Good Luck Dave

Is there a convenient place in the cabin to pick up a 12V feed that is only on when the ignition is on ?

I’ve just discovered that water leaking in to the rear boot left side is a common problem, I don’t know how the water gets in but my sound amplifier was in about 3 inches of water. Does anyone know if the amp can be fixed or replaced with an aftermarket amp or is it a case of having to buy another bmw amp Thanks

Thx for your feed back , appreciate thx fingers crossed