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On refitting the crankshaft pulley it says torque up the 4 Torx bolts to 40Nm and 120deg. Can a larger torque value be used and if so does anybody know what it would be

Morning Tony Welcome to the Forum First start with a search for the correct part number for your car use www.realoem.com (if you are not aware it is an online BMW parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the Exhaust section (is your car EU3, EU5, EU6) Once you have the correct part number use it to find the best supplier/price (£300 to £400) would be my expectation remember you may have to add clamps and gaskets to the price. If the part is correct fitting should be straight forward it will however need setting up. Depending on labour cost I would guess the whole job to be £800 to £1000 depending on what additional parts are needed Remember you can't just bolt it on, the ECU has to be set up to know the car has a new DPF (your garage should know that) Also make sure the Glow plugs and Controller are working correctly or the Regen cycle wont work correctly. Hope that helps Dave

Got a duff DPF filter on my 316D touring my mech says that apart from it being blocked its not regenerating! also its now broken at the exhaust output which is causing the exhaust pipe to wiggle around a bit and he a says we need a replacment one as it can't be welded as such. I don't doubt what he says its just the replacment one, seems new ones are around a grand or more but a wide range on ebay and quite a few suppliers from Germany like Autodoc.. Now not suprising seeing their German suppliers but in recent times he's had a lot of greif with spare parts from most all motor factors and the like i've seen some of the problems he had had with other cars like a clutch place that just didnt work! another suppliers did!, turbo for a range rover would spin and then stop something inside jammed up so what apart from the BMW new one anyone recommed a decent supplier either ebay or a breaker or a German supplier?. Car is fine otherwise its 2102 vintage done around 136,000 miles?. Thanks for any advice..

Hi Paul, Out of interest does you wireless charge tray actually charge your phone? Or does it just turn it into a small heater that get hotter than the sun, causing the phone to shut down due to overheat and put a very small amout of charge in it as mine does?

Thanks Dave. That's great detailed information. You're right, we do tend to replace rather than mend (if possible) and I'm all for saving a few pennies!! This will keep me busy next week. ATB

Morning Paul I would expect a Dealership to understand the Diagnostic programme, however as they say "never Assume" As an old (very) engineer I was always taught to treat a fault as a symptom rather than the actual cause. Sadly modern thinking and diagnostics have lead to a part swapping culture quite often at the Clients cost. I would start by getting a really good electrical contact cleaner, then first disconnect the battery unplug the Footwell module (also called FRM) and clean and check all the plugs and pins, if all good put it back and repeat with the Junction box (JBE) if all good reconnect the battery carry out a diagnostic. Record any faults then clear the active faults if there are any. The screen shot below shows the cars control unit tree not shown is the JBE the Yellow and Blue lines at the top come from there, the JBE manages the 2 main communication lines. On the left 3 down is the CAS (Comfort Access System) second line at the bottom FRM (Footwell Module) third blue line is the Most bus Infotainment In the screen shot you can see the IHKA in yellow (investigation shows Aux Water Pump) far right the DDE is yellow as 2 glow plugs are not working. The control tree for your car will depend on the original build sheet for equipment but at least you can see how things are linked. As your issue is intermittent my thought process is more loose or corroded pin on one of the connection plugs on either the JBE (on the side of the fuse box) or the Footwell module Hope this helps Dave

Thanks again Dave. The diagnostic check was done at a main dealership so I assume it will be as you suggested. I'll call in at my local garage in the morning and run through the things you suspect could be the cause. I appreciate your help with this.

Hi Paul As the fault is intermittent it always a mission to track down, INPA/ISTA will show faults present and faults not present but recorded in the history. So if INPA/ISTA was used I would have expected the fault to be seen Many garages just clear faults then see what comes back (not helpful at times) The fact that your radio seems to be linked to the fault occurrence makes me think the issue is with either the Footwell Module or Junction Box as these modules are the ones that link the two systems (Radio is on the MOST Bus circuit Doors are I believe K-Can) Dave

Thanks Dave. I have recently had a diagnostic test on the vehicle as there was a fault with the tcu battery, which needed replacing. Would the door unlocking fault have shown during this or not due to it being an intermittent issue? Thanks again for your help

Hi Paul I would from that description suspect a Footwell Module or Junction Box fault a diagnostic scan with a good BMW capable system should confirm (Best is BMW INPA/ISTA) Dave

An update to the intermittent fault. The issue with the passenger door, rear doors and tailgate not unlocking only happens if the radio doesn't turn off when the engine is off and the driver's door is opened!! Very odd. All settings in the idrive are for the radio to turn off and all doors and tailgate to unlock when the engine is turned off and driver'sdoor is opened. Anyone out there who has experienced anything like this? Thanks.

Hi Albert Welcome to the Forum As the keys are linked to the cars Comfort access system, Alarm and Immobiliser I am not sure a Second Hand Key would be an Option. I know that the older Bladed keys could be recoded but just not sure about the newer generations, though I have read of a couple of people offering Key Coding services how reliable and effective they are I have no idea. I have to say I would think twice about allowing someone access to my car for that type of service ?? £600 may seem steep (it is but BMW have never been cheap) but it may be the safe option Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Richard Welcome to the Forum When you say "maximum" tyre depth are you looking at the side wall (between the ground and the wheel rim) ? Those tyre sizes are correct for the wheels you have, however depending on build spec and country 16" wheels fitted with 205x55x16 front 225x50x16 rear or 225x45x17 front 255x40x17 rear (Note both theses options also came as a set of 4 wheels same as the front size) 18" were also available in225x40 front and 255x35 rear If you are considering a wheel change check care fully the the new wheels fit with the brakes on your car If you are asking because you are finding the ride hard/harsh then there are some additional things to check Suspension starting with springs (are they stock) Shock Absorbers as they age they may harden in action Suspension Bushes these are rubber and again harden and crack giving a harsh jolty ride Hope this helps not hinders 😁 Dave

I currently have a 325i 2011 coupe with 19 inch rims and 225/35 tyres on the front and 255/30 on the rear (not run flat) could anybody tell me what the maximum depth tyre i can have please?

Hi, Just bought a 2019 X5 M50D. On the original build sheet it came with a display key but the key has been lost. I was just looking for advice on whether you can get a secondhand one and get it coded? BMW are charging £600 for a replacement thanks.

Can you open the boot to reach the battery? use this terminal to put power to the car so you can open the boot and jump it from the battery itself if I remember correctly

Thank you I was thinking that bolt on the bottom left but am nervous to do damage if it is not correct!

Try these two!

Unfortunately this is not what mine looks like 😞

Hi. if it’s the same as this one… the red capped terminal is the positive and the bolt circled is the negative/chassis/ground…. This is the one you need!

Hi. I am feeling really foolish but I am having a hard time finding the correct bolt for the negative. Is someone able to provide photos for me? I have looked at the manual and that is not very clear and have spent way too much time on the internet searching. I am hoping someone here can help quickly. I custom ordered my dream car in 2014 and it only has 20,000 miles on it. I love it but I do not drive it near enough and now lost with a dead battery!

Morning David I think Stu was referring to the Oil Filler Cap not the Oil Filter Depending on how competent you are with spanners the codes you have indicate Vanos issues it could be just the sensor or it could be the actual vanos mechanism is sticking. Clearing a code doesn't fix an issue just resets it, if replacing the Vanos Sensor doesn't fix the problem the the Vanos mechanism needs removing cleaning and servicing new seals etc. If not you need a Garage/Mechanic who can do the work for you Dave

Changed the oil filter insert was fine

Hi Stuart Welcome to the Forum There are after market cameras the fit like the OEM ones in the trunk/boot lid release handle spot it is linked through the PDC but you may need a video handling unit? I t depends on the cars original spec Dave

It’s linked to the vanos sensor. but firstly, check the oil cap is the correct one and there should be an insert in it.