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Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum First point of call check the fuse diagram and fuses if that doesn't fix it then a Diagnostic Scan is needed by a Dealer £££ an Independent a Specialist or someone with a BMW capable scan tool A quick look at ISTA WIS shows fuses 120 and 128 are phone related Hope this helps Dave

Morning Lissa Welcome to the Forum I guess the first step is getting an estimate of cost to repair, then measure that against cost of changing the car One of our sons (a tree surgeon) had his pick up written off by driver who claimed it was parked in a dangerous spot ?? Straight road two wheels on the grass verge and warning signs out as they were working as well, Police checked the guys phone records he was texting at the time ?? Hope you find away to get the car sorted Dave Sunny Sussex UK (and it is today 😊

Hi Sadly someone t-boned my luxury SUV leaving me two options: To find someone to repair the rear quarter panel or to sell the entire wreck. The engine and all body parts, interior seats, etc are in excellent condition and well maintained with all service receipts since new. Left rear passenger door hit in front of wheel well. Possibly some axle disassembly requiring welding. Alignment of vehicle and body 85% excellent condition. No twist or distortion. All ideas welcomed. I'm still getting over being incredibly grumpy that some idiot didn't drive as safely as I do. Sunshine Coast Queensland Australia

Morning Stuart Welcome aboard Dave

The mobile charging tray on my 330i has stopped working. Any ideas what the problem might be?

Good morning from another Stuart! welcome aboard. I also enjoy mountain biking, having owned a couple of bike businesses in the past.

Good morning, been visiting as a guest on a few occasions and finally joined. My name is Stewart and based in the north east of England just south of the borders I currently own a 73 plate 240I LCI and a also have a 68 plate 435d cabriolet (wifes car). Previous BMW's and first were a 66 plate 420d coupe followed by a 20 plate 135i both of which I no longer own. I have posted images in the members gallery for viewing. Apart from the cars, other hobbies include Scuba diving and mountain biking but as coming up to retirement age these might be short lived. I hope I can contribute with learnings over many years of previous car ownership as well as picking up tips from others

Hi Dave Many thanks for your response, it's defo the fronts as touching the rears they were cook. Garage jave taken another look and said its and intermittent brake servo that needs replacing . I appreciate your help, a great forum

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Your car has Disc's front and rear plus the master cylinder, I assume that the garage changed both the front calliper's and discs? Brakes don't apply themselves unless your car has Cruise Control with distance control (which I don't believe 1 series had). That leaves the Rear callipers or Master cylinder, if the binding happens a hand near the wheel centre will let you feel the heat (don't touch the wheel or hub unless you don't mind loosing skin 😁) If all brakes are binding or even just the Front I would suspect the Master cylinder remember it is separate to the Vacuum Servo Good Luck Dave

Good evening Hopefully you can advise me, I have a 2015 (facelift) 1 series , last week I was driving and the brakes seemed to apply thereselves, slowing the car right down. After pulling over and waiting a while it drove fine. Then a few days later happened again with a burning smell from front left I took it to the garage and they said a stick caliper, they also replaced disk and pads As well as calipers. I picked it up £790 lighter and its happened again. I'll be calling them first thing in the morning to see what they say I've done the basic servo check, engine off pump break until hard, start engine and the pedal releases so surely this can't be the servo. Any ideas at all? I'd like to speak with them having a little knowledge many thanks in advance Mark .

Morning Tino My copy of INPA/ISTA worked straight out of the box (lucky me) it runs on a Win7 laptop that I already had Merc Star, Volvo, Toyota/Subaru, and a couple of other Diagnostic progs on. However one of our sons friend has a 1 series road car and a 1 series Drift car he was always here or borrowing !! Finally he has brought his own 😁 his copy runs on Win10 laptop we downloaded a Virtual Machine loaded Win 7 then followed all the directions but it took 3 attempts to load the Drivers. With his copy he has 2 Com leads one Yellow Ethernet that is for ISTA a Silver USB lead that has the 3 position switch that one is for INPA and is where we had problems with Drivers I have mailed James he has put a request to the Techies in Germany fingers crossed they get an answer. His first thought is a Can bus issue as he says normally they work unless something physical is broken (a wire or pins) Dave P.S. I only use the Ethernet cable with mine as ISTA seems fine being backwards compatible

Hello again Dave 👋, well, as of this time I'm still having issues establishing a connection with INPA. I'm certain I have everything on the laptop setup properly. Adapter is set to COM1 and latency is set to 1. I'm wondering if maybe the driver is the issue? I was told that the resistor is a "terminating resistor". It seems each device (and the OBD port qualifies as a device) has to have a certain resistance across those CAN lines. So I don't think the wiring is causing a communication issue at this point. Wiring is factory and should allow for communication with INPA at the very least. The adapter I have does have a 3 position switch, and to be fair I only tried two of the three positions. I'm heading back out to the car now and I'll attempt establishing a connection through INPA one more time while moving the switch between the 3 positions to see if any one position makes a successful connection. I'll come back with results on tha. I'm still wondering if the issue is the JBE module or some other module that is causing the communication issue, but how exactly do I test for that? If your ex neighbour could assist that would be amazing! I really appreciate it Dave 🙏 I'll attach the adapter settings in case you want to look over them, as well as the adapter switch and wiring.

Morning Tino INPA/ISTA should recognise Chassis and ECU data and harvest it automatically, well mine does. I get Chassis information, Engine and any history recorded Just sitting with a Coffee studying the wiring diagrams up to 2007 and 2007 shows a resistor symbol in connector X13376 at Pin 1 Green/brown trace 2007-2009 shows no resistor symbol anywhere X13376 connector appears to be part of the vehicle access system it links to the DME Pin 2 Black/green trace that is part of the Start system Later today I will try and talk to an ex neighbour who is now a senior guy in BMW see if he can find any more help Dave

Hey Dave 👋 I'm back! I'm wondering if the resistor is causing software not to be able to communicate with the ECU because the initial connection is normally established. The issue is when further communication starts then it just falls off and goes dead. Even with INPA, I borrowed a laptop with INPA from a friend that works on BMW's and it's acting strange. INPA sees ignition on all the time once OBD adapter is connected with a light on at all times on the adapter. The light on adapter stays on until getting into any sub menu. For example, E90>Engine>N45/N46. The light goes out and when entering the engine option menu I get an error "Group file : D_MOTOR. IFH-0009: NO RESPONSE FROM CONTROLUNIT. Program will be stopped!" After pressing okay it takes me back go the main menu. Also, when entering the "Functional Jobs" menu, and trying to enter the E90 menu I get the error "Language variants do not match. Malfunction possible!" After pressing okay it takes me to the E90 Menu under functional jobs. When I try to press on identification or vehicle data I get the message "no response from the control unit." I want to note that whenever I enter a new menu the adapter light blinks rapidly for a few seconds like it's showing me some type of data communication is happening then it just stops. I'm wondering if the settings of INPA need to be configured a particular way in order for it to communicate with this BMW or if a module has gone bad. Hmm, maybe I need to test the resistor to make sure it's fine. Maybe just get rid of the resistor all together? I'm not sure what it's purpose is but if all other E90's can operate without it then I'd imagine it'll work without em as well but not gonna jump to any conclusions yet.

Hi Greydog, Thanks for your time checking on the i-Carsoft unit! I will be looking to obtain a copy of the ISTA then! Best, JC

Morning JC Borrowed my neighbours i-Carsoft last evening and it does a lot more than I thought but sadly not with the RDC. So that's not the one Normally you need to erase the old chassis number or last 7 digits then ignition off wait a few minutes ignition on and check it's cleared then enter your information From what I have read online guys using Foxwell have had some success but for me I would look for a Copy of ISTA with it's leads (mine came from ESYS years ago) one of our sons friends brought a copy 2 years ago from the Bay £110 I helped him get it up and running on his Win 10 Laptop, downloaded a Virtual Machine Win7 then loaded the program to that, the only faff was loading the drivers took 3 try's. It works really well and like mine allows full Dealer level access for Diagnostics and Programming Good Luck Dave

Thank you Greydog for your help! Yes, the Maxi unit reprogrammed the RDC but it does not correctly erase the old RDC coding data. That’s why it only work until I stopped the car. Now I know I need another tool to get the job done. 🙂 I will be waiting for your answer! Thanks!

Hello all, I have a 2007 328i and the front cigarette lighter socket and ashtray light are not working. The socket in the center console arm rest does work. One fuse I've seen listed on forums is a 20 amp in position #30. On my car marked as 12v accessory. This fuse is not blown. I've seen some posts say fuse #8 is also the 12v accessory socket but on my car that is a 5 amp marked as CD Changer. Is there another fuse for the front 12V socket that anyone is aware of?

Morning JC That's better information A neighbour has i-Carsoft if he is around later today I will have a look At least you now know the cause, will your Maxi unit allow registration ? Dave

I used another ODB reader, I am able to get additional information about the error code. It looks like the used RDC is not properly reprogrammed to work with my car. Do you know if the I-Carsoft 3 or Foxwell 510 is able to reprogram the RDC properly and resolves the errors? Or if the BMW INPA/ISTA the only tool that can fix it? Thanks!

Hi mate, thanks for the reply. If I disconnect the battery will I lose all of my settings? cheers.

Thank you Greydog. I will be looking into these units!

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum If there is that much oil in the Header Tank it follows that water should be in the sump what is the Dip stick showing I have never seen anything like that before ? by the stains around the top of the header tank it almost looks like it has been poured in there? I have read of unscrupulous buyers distracting owners and pouring oil into header tanks then claiming head gasket failure and offering stupid low price to complete the sale. But thats OTT I doubt the engine would be running well if that much oil is being lost to the cooling system. First I would carry out an oil change if there is water in the oil then you will see it around the oil cap as a creamy residue and definitely in the drained oil. If the drained oil is OK and the Oil Filler Cap clean next step is drain the coolant remove the header and clean it (if possible) with the coolant drained you should be able to check the oil cooler and its seals to the rad Good luck detecting the cause Dave

I would look at systems like i-Carsoft V3 Foxwell 510, but the best and most comprehensive is ISTA. I have seen all of these on the Bay and Amazon for between £100 and £150 Do a google search for BMW Diagnostic software, Good Luck Dave

If the splice has been repaired properly, there are K-can High (Orange/Green trace) and K-can Low (Green) both need doing then it should clear , I know I have done a few. Then you have the Chassis Can (ICM) which has its own can High and can Low, the DSC has PT-can links High and Low Then common sense dictates you have an issue with other K-can splices there are several in the Main Loom floor level and under the dash I would either check myself or find a another Garage bearing in mind this is the garage that has taken £1000 of your money every time telling you "this will fix it". If you can't be bothered yourself get an Auto Electrician as all your doing is throwing money at it/them. It really isn't that complicated Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's your car and money just go back to your very first post and see the answer/advice given Dave