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Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Hello there 👋 I have a 2008 E90 320i From Japan and am having some issues with the OBD II Port. I’ve noticed when I try to scan, the scanner sometimes establishes a connection and then while scanning for codes it just goes blank like it lost power. I’ve tried multiple scanners (BlueDriver, OBD Link CX for BimmerCode & Carly) and none can make it to the end of the canning process. So I got to digging and pulled the OBD II port to check pins and wires. Also found a pinout online for E90’s to make sure it was pinned correctly. I believe the pinout I found was: Pin Signal Description 1 +12V Ignition (In run Or Start) 4 CGND Chassis Ground 5 SGND Signal Ground 6 CAN HI CAN High, J-2284 7 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE Engine (ISO-9141 and ISO-14230), Automatic Transmission Diagnostic (In Some Models) 8 ISO 9141-2 K-LINE IKE/KOMBI, ABS, ABS/ASR, ABS/ABD, ESP, DSC, Airbag And Other Electronic Equipment 9 TD/RPM Engine Rotation Speed 14 CAN LO CAN Low, J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE L-Line Of ISO 9141-2 And ISO 14230-4 16 +12v Battery Power So I pulled my OBD II Port and I found that pins 1, 8 and 15 are not present. I also found this rectangular box with some type of capacitor in it attached to the harness with the two can bus wires going through it. I also have two parts cars from Japan with slight variations in spec, totalling 3 E90’s that I have: Year Production Date Engine Code Transmission Spec Main - 2008 10/2007 N46B20B GM Cloth Electric Seats Non Heated Parts - 2008 08/2007 N46B20 ZF Leather Electric Seats Heated Parts - 2010 12/2009 N46B20B GM Cloth Manual Seats Non Heated So I pulled the OBD II ports on those as well to check if they were the same, and oddly enough the other 2008 model was setup differently but the 2010 model was setup the same as my white 2008 model. Maybe the transmission used plays a roll on the OBD II pinout seeing that my white 2008 model and the 2010 model both use the GM trans? The 2008 parts car doesn’t have the box with the capacitor in it. Below I’ll show you the pinout for each vehicle: White 2008 w/GM Transmission: IMG_6218.HEICIMG_6219.HEICIMG_6220.HEIC Silver 2008 w/ZF Transmission: IMG_6215.HEICIMG_6216.HEIC Dark Blue 2010 w/GM Transmission: IMG_6212.HEICIMG_6213.HEICIMG_6220.HEIC Any idea what I need to do to get the port to work? I’d imagine I need to start with adding a +12 Volt signal from the ignition switch.

Got the dreaded oil smell every drive on my m4. little bit of smoke from engine bay but not all the time, no cel, no changes in performance looking at doing the job myself and wondered which rocker cover others went for and from where. I’m based in the UK so not able to use fcp. any tips or essential tools I will need to make the job easier

Thank you Dave. I am sure that someone online was selling the resistor slider the one that i have in the Pic. Just need to find that Thanks

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com It is an online BMW parts list either search by Model/year or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. Then search the relevant sections I would think either Body or Trim sections if its listed it should have one Good Luck Dave

Does the 2019 BMW x4 40i 3ltr model have a bonnet heat shield

Frank Changing to springs is a simple mechanical swap take out the air spring bolt in the conventional spring you will need spring compressors to get the steel springs safely in place. However coding out the sensors and compressor control software to stop all the messages on your dash still needs doing unless your happy to drive around in a car with faults showing. A spring kit should cost around £200. Then all you need to do is as said find someone to code out the other stuff if you have someone to do that they could do a full ride height scan and tell you exactly what is wrong I have a feeling that would be simpler and cheaper??? If the Module you ordered was wrong what did you order ? If you contact Bimmerparts they will probably change it for you or give a refund. Did you check www.realoem.com to get the correct Part number before buying ? Have you had a scan Done? Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First the engine difference 430d should give 250+hp and 400+ft/ibs torque 0-60 around 5.5secs the 435d should be around 300+hp 450+ft/lbs of torque 0-60 under 5 secs. I would think both cars will give high 30's around town and high 40's even 50's on a run (right foot influenced) Both engines are based on the BMW's 3ltr straight six Diesel turbo configuration makes the difference both cars will have a ZF 8 speed box, the 430d RWD the 435d AWD That's the oily bits the rest is is personal choice don't assume that they will all be the same inside make sure that the cars have everything that you want and that it all works as it should. When you find a car with the colour interior and engine specs you like then just like any used purchase History History History Hope we rescue you from the Dark Side 🤣 Dave

Thanks Dave It's going back in tomorrow. They say it may be a poor alignment issue? But will check. Sorry they had said to me it was a control.arm? It can move very easily and more so when car on plate and off ground. With wheel turned can easily see movement around the bushes. Still they said that's normal. Something is far wrong as the car handles really poorly at higher speeds and cornering. I'll update after it's been checked again 👍

Hi All I’m new here so please bear with me. I’m looking to buy either a 430d or 435d M Sport I’m good with the coupe, grand coupe or convertible Im after a low mileage, f/s/h and max 3 owners Can any of you give me any advice of which to go for please? I have a budget of £13k plus my old Audi A3 if need be Cheers Brian

Thanking you for thought and offer .. hard to believe but courier arrived at door yesterday with module ..almost week after been told it had been delivered last Wed and the phone calls/emails hassle trying trace it since , went fit it today and it discovered it doesnt !!!!!!!!!!!! so could i ask if anyone knows where i might buy kit that converts it to 'conventional' and does away with need for module/compressor etc ?? again thanks in advance

Hi Jose Welcome to the Forum First you really need a diagnostic scan to help here us and you there are several BMW capable systems these day at reasonable cost BMW ISTA/INPA available online Foxwell, Autologic, iCarsoft the list is getting longer my own X5 E70 had several K-can bus issues which after a lot of head scratching lead me to a BMW cable jointing system common on our cars. The joints are not soldered they are twisted and compressed then covered in a clear plastic sleeve. As you have suffered water ingress I would start in the Boot/Trunk under the floor starting at the rear right below the rear fuse board you will find the main Loom it runs along the rear of the car towards the battery hidden in it are several of these joints (pictures attached) The dark stain inside the clear plastic is corrosion with my car several of these joints just fell apart. I ended up remaking and soldering all the joints in the pictures the sealing them with shrink wrap. Once done I could clear all manner of faults that just wouldn't clear before. However as you are also having other issues they may possibly be either junction box and/or footwell module related. Also check the alternator output it may be the voltage regulator is fritzed Hope this helps Dave

Morning Gary Sorry chum never heard of spring loaded suspension bushes before. A couple of points (1) there are no upper control arms on the front of your car? There are Front and Rear bushes on the lower wishbone at the top there is the strut mount. (2) Your rear suspension has upper front and rear control arms the front control arm allows suspension adjustment by the use of an eccentric bolt. So if you have a car which pulls to one side something is clearly not right at only 17k, are all the tyres the same make and tread pattern? are they correctly inflated? are the brakes binding (is one hotter after a run)? The supplying garage has a legal requirement to make the car suitable for purpose, tell them you want it fixed or you will reject the car and ask for your money back. Write to them outlining when the issue was first raised with them and the amount of visits to try and cure the issue tell them it is not acceptable and if they cannot fix it you will have no alternative but to reject the car under the sale of goods act. Good Luck Dave

Hey guys. I'm unsure of the formatting for posts so please correct me as I learn. I am looking for any feedback to help me in diagnostic. I do have paperwork from the last mechanic that worked on it, but the issue is that they did not use a BMW diagnostic tool, they used a generic tool which of course resulted in error codes/descriptions that are less than helpful. Once posted, I will update the topic from my phone since the pictures are on there. I don't believe they would be much help due to the source but anything I can provide on my end that would help reach a more educated diagnosis, don't hesitate to request. I have a 2009 bmw X5 (VIN - 5UXFE83529L308475) https://bimmer.work/vin/l07b52ec71e6aeec1179c8ed5c73494a9/options/ A while back I diagnosed damage to the Tailgate Control Module Unit which was related to the Roof Drain Hose. I unclogged it temporarily until I could take the liner off and replace it properly, however since that was discovered I've had a slew of other issues come up which I believe are related but I do not know for sure. Current issues: The Tailgate won't open automatically on a key press, it does unlock but needs to be opened manually. (Not priority, I don't mind opening it manually for now) The battery stopped charging. (Battery tested and is in good condition) Radio not working in any capacity (likely related to the next issue, but unsure) The hardware on the driver side of the vehicle is likely water damaged, which includes the amp, Teleservice module(Unsure if correct), CD Changer module (actual cd changer in the glovebox), Driving Assistance?(Unsure of module location), Satellite Radio. There's I believe a total of 4 or 5 silver metal 'boxes' or modules on the trunk's driver side well. The SOS light is on (Likely related to previous issue) The 4x4 light came on (possible that the fluid needs topped off but unsure if it's related to something in the trunk) The traction control system is not working, and the button does not allow me to turn it off (always on) I do not want to turn it off, but I would like to diagnose all of the issues so worth listing. The front windshield sprayer is not working, but the rear one is (The front pump was replaced recently but it's not making any sound when using the stalk) (Rear sprayer works by pulling the stalk which seems to be reversed to OEM functionality). Sorry for the long post but this little one was saved from a salvaged yard, and when purchased, it was purchased knowing I would be buying a problem child, but I am still learning about this platform (previously e46, and e39 owner).

Hi Dave Back from BMW today who checked car over and said everything is in spec and correct. They are saying control.arm is supposed to move and also near bushes as there spring loaded. Find this strange? I literally move the arms back and forth with ease. Stick what to do or where to go now? Had a suspension check at weekend albeit from Halfords and they pointed the arms out as needing replaced. Car still under warranty so guessing if I was paying they would be saying needs changed. Gary

Finally remembered to check on this fault! … nearly mot time! Haha sorted the intermittent wiper issue… that was a rain sensor not sensing rain! IMG_3444.mov

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware as long as the replacement is the same part number you should find it plug and play. Even if it requires registration (logging your Chassis number into the replacement unit) ISTA is the tool. Way back 2004/2005 a friends 5 series Footwell Control module failed, the Dealer wanted so much money he was considering scrapping the car!! Dealer told horror stories about cars being Bricked if the unit was swapped and not programmed and you couldn't reprogram used units !! Well it was wrong actually swapping the units over took longer than reprogramming the replacement unit and he still has the car 😁 Since then I have done several for friends and family If you are not aware use www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Once you have the correct part number Google for the best source/price. Then it is the process of removing the faulty unit and changing it. Before all this are you sure it is the IHKA unit not just a sensor or something else. Your friend with ISTA can help confirm if he hasn't already Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum Try disconnecting the battery for 30mins see if that clears things if not it may be an issue with the Dab antenna a Diagnostic scan may well show up any issues there Dave

Glad your almost up and running The x5's don't like not being used they sulk 🤣 Remember she's 16 so a temperamental teenager 🤣 Dave

Hi, I have a 2011 X3 and the dab won’t search for channels. Well it searches for about a minute or so then stops and says no signal. I have tried it in various locations in case it was just rubbish near my house but always the same thing. I was going to try and do the reset on the stereo but the usual keeping your finger on the volume button doesn’t work. I can’t find another way to reset it so any ideas would be gratefully received. many thanks.

Hi Dave just a update on the car they changed the transfer case control module cleared most faults but they also had to change the dsc module under the seat which cleared all faults apparently but now one of the rear air bags on the suspension either won't inflate or leaks so they have to fix that now these bmws seem like they have problems all the time just want to thank u for all your help

I’m looking for info from someone in the know…. Our 2014 Paceman R61 is fitted with the Auto Climate Control (IHKA)which has started blowing warm air due to the interior air temp sensor registering -40deg C. The sensor is part of the control panel. I’ve priced it at the dealer which is ouch £$€ but there are plenty of 2nd hand units about. I need to know if they require reprogramming and/or coding ? - Dealer parts man could not say as it didn’t say on the sheet and master tech was not available. if they do can I reprogram a 2nd hand unit - a friend has ISTA and cable from when he had an R60 Has anyone dealt with this same issue? Any help is appreciated

That's sad news Stu The Mini and 2nd Generation on X3 require their own software for Diagnostics so BMW 1.4.0 wont touch them I am afraid 1.4.0 is brilliant on I-bus cars but anything BMW after 2005/6 and all Mini variants need INPA or ISTA or one of the more up to date systems from Autel iCarsoft etc Dave

Hi mate. I live near bring if you need anything collecting and posting. 👍🏻

Update… the garage reckon it’s the kwe and dme units have failed… It’s gone to the scrap! 😔