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Also Car has no warning light on, car appears driveable !!!

Thanks again Dave I had never heard of the VIN Decoder site, looks as if the brakes were an upgrade. Have heard from BMW 7mm on pads and an overall inspection showed no warps. They said to monitor as car has been stood a while, thanks again for ur time

Hi Guys , please help if you can! My Daughter drives a 3 yr old X3 in Dubai and was driving to Abu Dhabi early this morning in the dark. Loud bang from underneath passenger floor pan is dented and holed!!! With these two tubes now hanging from car!!! She’s distraught , starts a new project today and I’m trying to help her. Has a panel dropped off ?? What are these plastic tubes what do they carry ???? I know guys on these forums know everything 😀 Right hand drive car if that’s important Early reply much appreciated

Now you have the Build Option code try using a BMW Vin Decoder web site put your Vin number in and it should pull up your cars original build sheet Dave

Hi Dave Many thanks I had no joy with the link but thank you anyway, I did a full check with CarCheck uk and this came up. I’m presuming that this is the reason with the upgraded brakes? Thank you for your time, I’ll let you know how I get on with the dealership.

Hi Terry Welcome to the Forum As I understand it you either need an add on MMI box or a replacement Android Screen which would allow Carplay and Android Auto Good Luck Dave

Hi Simon You could check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then check the Brakes section if alternate pads were offered Standard or Competition. A neighbour has a Toyota which made a grating sound Toyota Dealer found no issue and gave a similar response blaming the Pad material. She was really worried so I jacked up her car took off the wheel and found a small stone trapped between the Dust Shield and the Brake disc hooked it out with a long screw driver no more noise. I run Brembo pads and disc's on my E53 4.6is but standard disc's and pads on my E70 and both make no noise. So I agree as the car has covered only 9k disc's and pads are just run in, if there were a previous owner I wonder could they have specified Competition Pads ? With the Aero kit that is quite sloppy work by the body shop I hope it's not Bonded in place As you say depending on your Dealer you could have an uphill fight on your hands Good Luck Dave

Hi Dave Many thanks for the welcome and pointers . All of the tyres were replaced prior to collection so can confirm there isn’t any debris between discs/pads. The tech was trying to tell me that all M models did this as it’s the compound in the pads which I have never heard of. I had a M235 before and had no issues, wheel bearings not making any significant noise while in motion either. I’m unsure if the pads/discs have been replaced with after market or not but the vehicle has only covered 9k The noise is apparent forwards and backwards with either lock on or off. I have also attached a image of their genuine OEM aero kit fitment which isn’t even flush so I think I have a fight on my hands

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum Let's start with a few questions You say a noise when carrying out slow manoeuvres, so is the noise when going lock to lock backwards and forwards. Or is it also noisy if just going forwards and backwards Are Disc's and Pads standard or have they been changed Are tyres correct any sign of odd wear or rubbing Nothing trapped behind the back plates (I would hope a Dealer would have checked that) Wheel bearings checked After driving any heat in the wheel centre's and brake area Those are the checks I would carry out myself Dave

Hi Looking for some advice pls, posted on General Chat but no joy as of yet. Slow manoeuvres creating a quite loud grinding sound as if pads are low but they are not. Forwards and Reverse, Main Dealer have said they believe it to be within tolerance as it’s a M model. Any guidance would be appreciated, Many Thanks

Hi Firat The fact you get erratic drops in voltage which coincide with your description "feels like the car hits a wall" have you checked the pulleys tensioners and belts ? I have seen 2 instances (1) a frayed belt becoming tangled and snatching when the frayed part caught up (2) The crankshaft pulley rubber isolator breaking up caused a similar effect. The fact voltage drops to 12.5v when you get the effect would point towards the Alternator being stopped momentarily or longer, again check pulleys and belts and the engine earth straps If you have access to ISTA you should be able to see the Fault Memory for the Engine DME and the Transmission plus all other stored codes If codes were cleared when you registered the battery (was the Battery replaced or Fully charged) temporarily the car would see no Issues as soon as a fault or the critical fault re-occurred the erratic performance returned. Dave

Hi I have recently purchased a 2023 M135i and am noticing a grinding/rubbing noise when braking especially noticeable at slow speed. BMW claiming that it’s barely noticeable so is within tolerance. Car is from main dealer and has only covered 9k with FBMWSH. Any help would be gratefully received, thank you

Hi Dave, I have some critical observations regarding the voltage issues we discussed. I’ve been monitoring the live data via the BM6 app and found a direct correlation between the voltage drops and the car's performance: • Momentary Power Loss: At the exact moment the car feels like it’s "hitting a wall" and loses power, the voltage at the battery drops instantly to 12.5V while driving. Normally, it stays around 14.2V - 14.5V. • Transmission Issues: While cruising, the voltage is very unstable, fluctuating between 14.0V, 13.9V, and sometimes dipping to 13.6V. Whenever these fluctuations occur, the transmission shifts become very jerky and harsh. • The "Reset" Effect: I performed a battery registration via ISTA+ and went for a test drive. For the first 50 km, the car was incredibly stable; the voltage stayed solid at 14.4V - 14.5V, and the gear shifts were flawless. However, after that period, the erratic behavior and voltage drops returned. • Cranking Voltage: During the first cold start, the voltage drops significantly to 9.6V - 9.8V. Interestingly, if I stop the engine and immediately restart it (without removing the key/terminal 15), the cranking voltage stays much higher and the car starts much "healthier." It seems like the DME/IBS is losing its calibration or there is a major resistance issue (possibly the ground strap) that triggers these momentary charging cut-offs, especially under load. What do you make of this "temporary recovery" after ISTA registration followed by a relapse

Is there an apple car play that will work in a 2010 x3

Did you find a solution to this I have the same problem. Flashing AC BUTTON and now it turned off completely and doesn’t work whilst I’m driving. When I turn the car off and turn it on again the same thing happens, flashing and then it stops completely and ac won’t turn on at all.

Hi Just bought 118 sport, and was wondering should the parking sensors stay on even when taken out off gear and hand brake on

Hi Chris You need to go online and search the Register of BMW Specialists there should be one close by The garage your using seem a little lost, the most common problem is Fuses as already said there are several dependent on model, to muddy the water a little more sometimes they are not blown just dirty so need checking carefully (I use a good contact cleaner and a new fuse) They are correct that low battery voltage can cause issues and 11v would indicate a discharged or dying battery, have you tried charging it ? If it won't take a charge then it needs replacing and registering to the chassis (not difficult and can be done after issues are fixed) At the front fuse box check fuses 63 Automatic Transmission Control 10 amp and 64 Gear Selector Switch 7.5 amp How do they know it wasn't the Gear Selector unit ? Did they check fuses? With a fully charged Battery I would carry out a Diagnostic scan note any codes then clear the fault memory and register the Battery correctly. Then check voltages at the charging points under the bonnet, Engine and Ignition off should be 12.5v minimum Engine running Voltage checked at the same place should be 14.6v. Now hopefully you will have a driving Beemer Hope this Helps Dave

Hi Dave and thank you for the welcome and advice.. It always drove fine before hand.. I came home from work, parked it up, saw I had parked like a fool and restarted it to straighten it up.. It went into D but then slipped back into P by itself and stayed the same way.. The RAC came out, ran their diagnostic on the transmission and it came back with 420641, Parking lock incorrectly applied: plausibility driver command /sensor confirmation. Intermittent. Some research suggested that the common fault is the gear selector unit. I found a replacement, provided it to the garage in Taunton and their response it it isn't that. They said it might be a low battery ( just over 11 volts) and if the car wasn't told the battery was replaced, it can cause problems.. I looked at the fuses under the glove box but the ones I want to look at are buried underneath a relay that I cant get out. I asked if low or dirty transmission fluid might cause it, the garage suggested not, especially if the engine is cold.. I'm still concerned that it might be that as a previous service identified a small oil leak but they weren't sure where from.. I just don't know what to do for the best...

Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum Oh dear I hope the garage is not a BMW Dealer or Specialist and are just an ill informed Independent. How did the car drive before the issue? If it was OK then you had the "stuck in park" problem First this is not an uncommon issue and is fairly well covered on the Internet Task 1. Check all the transmission linked fuses there are several from memory also check the relay. Task 2. If all fuses and relays are in good order get that Gearbox Control Module checked. A job better done by someone with BMW or ZF capable diagnostics. A full Diagnostic scan should tell you more, it would be embarrassing to spend a lot of money rebuilding/changing the transmission to discover it was a 20p fuse Good Luck Dave

Hi all... I have a dilemma. I have a 2014 530 D M Sport Auto with a gearbox that has gone into Park and wont come out.. Garage says its probably going to need a gearbox rebuild at around the £3k mark.. A second hand gearbox costs less than a third of that but is the risk worth it?

Yes mould. Am trying something specifically sold for mould and hopefully that will break it down so I can clean it off, colour and proof it in the spring. It does live under a cover over winter so that is likely culprit I guess. Will put on some pics before and after. Will also be using a very stiff brush to properly agitate and work the affected areas . If anyone else has tried something that works on removing mould please advise.

I did see transmission fluid dripping the other day so let's keep our fingers crossed it's low on fluid and coming out that sleeve

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum Not sure if this is the same issue as Lou reported on the Forum in 2024 ? Sadly he didn't close out the post so we don't know if his issue was sorted As your dealer has attempted a repair I would pressure them to make it good and permanent Good Luck Dave

Ok

My 2022 rear bumper was repaired 18 months ago and is seperating again. The first time, the dealer (BMW of Salt Lake) removed the bumper and charged $350 USD. I noticed the problem again a few weeks ago. There is no apparent damage or impact that would cause the seperation. Are others seeing this issure? Thanks, Alan