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Well… clamp meter found nothing… I have removed the fuses for the wiper, heater and disconnected the interior lights on the bootlid. I still have a drain somewhere. I just removed the plug on the rear wiper and now the car external temp says it’s -35! ….. and the bonnet cable has snapped again!

Morning Yvonne Welcome to the Forum Built into the brake pad is a small carbon contact at the point where the Manufacturer of the pads believes they are close to the end of their service life. When it makes contact with the brake disc it triggers the light, which is a warning to change the pads, while your brakes still work in a short time uneven wear can occur which will cause damage to the disc. New pads are around 12mm thick as yours have been measured at 3mm there isn't much left see the chart. It isn't BMW or a Garage trying to squeeze money out of you The MOT I would guess shows the brake pad thickness as an "advisory" all that means they were working on the day of the Test? It doesn't mean they are OK or Safe just that they were OK then. The only things between us and a wall or ditch are Brakes and Tyres for me it is a false economy to ignore the warning, Pads are much cheaper than a new set of Discs and Pads an complete set of Brembo (Top make) pads for your car I would think is around £40 may be a little more plus fitting which should be around 2 hrs max if you can't DIY Dave

The rear brake pad change service notification has been on for a while. The car has just had an MOT and no advisory re brake pads, so I think this means more than 3mm left on them. So they do not need replacing. My car now has the brake light illuminated and keeps telling me to service the brake pads, overdue by 12 miles. Do I need to change the brake pads as they are perfectly fine according to MOT? Thank you

Hi, Yes, I have now sold it. Apologies for not removing the post earlier. I can't figure out how to do it! Karol

Have you sold it ?

Morning Trishul What was it like ? Good turnout ? Dave

Morning Vin Welcome to the Forum As your system is CiC and modular you need a Diagnostic scan to provide us more information Dave

Display unit flickers red and you cannot use nav or music

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum The Post is 3 years old and I am not sure if the original poster even still has the car? As said you can check pressure at the Low Pressure side after 15/20mins running anything below 30 psi points to low /no Gas. Most systems loose a little every year particularly if the system is shut down during the winter months as many folks do, the seals dry out and leaks start it's better to use the Climate Control and leave it running. If your topping it up yourself make sure the kit has the correct compressor oil as low compressor oil levels can give issues. If the water control valves are OK and working, the Climate Control unit is functioning correctly, then I would use someone like Kwik Fit to service the AC the systems they use are automatic and pre-programmed it will vac out the system, providing the system holds the vacuum for a measured time (no leaks) it will introduce the correct oil and re-gas the system. I expect to get mine done every 3 to 5 years depending on the car and AC performance Dave Note your car should be Type R134A you can't mix gasses

Morning Steven Welcome to the Forum If you have the original pump and module I would send it to ECU Testing (Derby/Nottingham area) if it is repairable it won't need coding when it goes back on. Brake bleeding is a straight forward procedure I always start at the nearside rear (furthest from the master cylinder) I use a vacuum pump bleeding kit (mine is old but they are about £20 or so) to pull fluid through. Make sure the Master cylinder is above Min at all times, once clear no bubbles or murky fluid lock it off and move to the offside rear and repeat. Then nearside front and finally offside front make sure you are using the correct brake fluid and as said never let the master cylinder drop below the Min mark. Now the only tricky bit is you will need the help of someone who has a BMW capable Diagnostic tool if you don't have your own to activate the ABS unit, job done. If the original can't be repaired the next point to check is "the unit that is fitted is it the correct one for your car" is/was it New or purchased second hand? check the part number of both the Pump and Controller carefully if they are the same as the OEM part then it should have been plug and play. If the unit was (a) Second hand is it faulty? (b) If it is an incorrect part then you will struggle to get it to work. However if it does need coding then again you will need the help of someone who has a Diagnostic program that is capable of doing it Hope this Helps Dave

Did you ever resolve this? I have the same issue and am looking for pressure data.

Hi all, I have owned my 420D convertible for almost two years now and I am really pleased with her combination of performance and economy. However, two months ago I had trouble lowering the rear nearside window - it would not glide down smoothly but only operated in repeated pressing of the window winder button. Even when fully down I found the retractable roof would not fully open. My local BMW specialist garage advised that the problem was that the window winder mechanism on the nearside had failed due to being 'wetted-out' by water ingress to the sill from normal rainfall/washing. Apparently the sill does not have a means of draining away on the 4 Series convertible and eventually it 'floods' the window winder mechanism which sits in this area. My garage stated that this is a common problem on the convertible and they have rectified many of these cars by making a simple drain themselves. I paid £600 for the new winder and labour so was not happy but imagine my horror to experience the offside 'fail' as well ! I have now paid out @£1200 to deal with a 'common knowledge' issue that should have been subject of a simple recall to rectify. I have started an investigation with BMW UK and my local BMW Stratstone dealer to investigate this issue with a view to receiving some recompence for an obvious design fault. My question is, are there any other people/garages 'out there' who have experienced this issue with the 4 Series convertible so that we may form a group to petition BMW for financial retribution ? (I have noted several comments/pictures/videos on Google and Youtube so I know I am not the only one !!). Please feel free to contact me via this post or via my email at [email protected] Thank you !!!

Hi can anybody help brought a x5 3.0d but has 4x4 dsc abs ebv failure the previous owner changed the abs pumpand module but never coded it to the car I have the old pump but don't know where to started the brake pedal also feels spongy any help I'd appreciate it

I'm sorry to hear this, I cant even imagine the stress that would put you and the family under. It's wrong and it shouldn't be allowed to continue, it seems garages can walk away scott free doing this. From a buying point of view it doesn't look like you have much security only "luck" that a car is genuine from the previous owners. I am currently speaking with the BMW group, I have reported this to trading standards also (uk ecc) I hope somebody see's the forum and see's the car for what it is.

The X's have a unibody and there are not factory mounting point under vehicle. Possibly with some extreme engineering the factory one can be lowered.

Reason for noise was low oil level in the compressor. The noise only started after degassing of the aircon system. Oil topped up and all good now. Thanks folks

Fan is at the back. All done now took 30mins with all work done from the top. Cost of a new fan complete with surround was Euro 260.Thanks for the replies

Thanks very much for your message Dave, it looks like that will be the solution. 😀

Hi Muriel Welcome to the Forum We have seen this here before, BMW say it is caused by condensation in the exhaust at initial start vapour is caused when the exhaust is hot no issue? One guy in Ireland spent a fortune trying to fix it check out the posts if you haven't already Hope this helps Dave

Morning Roger Looks like you need a Torx Socket possibly T10 difficult to say from the picture. Sets are not that expensive and freely available Just BMW expanding your tool kit 🤣 Dave

Can anyone tell me which tool I need to unscrew the head unit in my 2018 F20 ( see attached photo)I am trying to get it out to attach a WiFi antenna

Bnw 2018 x5 petrol hybrid No faults,no loss im power. Fine in hybrid but when engine kicks in or on engine startup gets large white smoke from exaust. Clears quickly in air but large amount comes from exaust. Brought to few garages. No coolant leak. No loss in power so reluctant to change turbo in case that's not the problem. No one seems to know what the problem is. Any one get same problem a d managed to get an answer?

Can someone tell me what tool I need to unscrew to remove this Head Unit?

Morning Jay Welcome to the Forum I have read that Hybrids have very restricted towing capacity so my first thought is I doubt that it will fit. You really need to talk to a Specialist supplier or your Dealer (though the Dealer may not be much help if your planning DIY) From memory BMW OEM suppliers were/are Oris and Westfalia Good Luck Dave

Can anyone tell me if a BMW X2 2020 towbar will fit a BMW X2 hybrid 2020