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IMG_0409.movIMG_0409.movIMG_0409.movIMG_0407.movOk guys so new to this forum, on the Facebook group but had not much feed back tonight, i currently own a 2015 1 series sport, I was driving tonight coming onto motorway, slowed down from 6th gear due to a truck needing my lane as it was a dual lane slip road, in slowing down and put car into wrong gear so when I set off I set off in high gear, i don’t know what gear I put it into but my guess is I put into 4th as apposed to second either when I set off the car was then vibrating, I pulled up to the traffic light and it was continuing to vibrate and it had a loud idle, now there was no burning smell, no smoking, no loss of power and no change in how the car drives, can any body please help with advise IMG_0408.mov IMG_0406.mov

Hello mate thanks for the reply and sorry for lack of information. I think the engine is a n13 I had the car serviced in may and when I pick the car up and looked at the invoice they hadn’t change the fuel filter when I questioned the garage they said the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump so I said don’t it have a in line filter and they said no Thank you

Thanks for the reply. I've replaced the battery several times with new ones ( I should have mentioned that in the post) and unfortunately I lost the other fob. I've been procrastinating replacing it due to the cost. So I guess the next step is the scan tool. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks.

Depending on engine, it could be a failing glow plug? Or maf leak? A misfire will cause a random jump and affect fuel consumption. Do you notice any fuel smell when the juddering happens?

Hi Martin Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings A very difficult problem to diagnose with such limited information but here goes. As you say the consumption/vacuum gauge drops when it occurs my guess would be more Engine than Transmission. I would start at the front of the engine and check belts, pulley's and tensioners. Look for any fraying or side wear on belts. I would also carry out a Diagnostic check as I do have my own copy of BMW ISTA/INPA no injector faults logged and make sure all hoses and vacuum lines are in good condition, check fuel pressure etc Good Luck Dave

2008 bmw e70 3.0sd. I have a vibration/ judder periodolically. Have noticed when it happens fuel consumption gauge drops and mpg gets worse. Have had gearbox serviced( oil and filter) wondering if it could be transmission problem..

Morning Michael Welcome to the Forum and Seasons Greetings If you have the warning light have you (a) changed the Battery in the Fob ? (b) Tried a different Fob (you should have 2) They are the obvious first thoughts/action If that doesn't work then a proper Diagnostic scan is needed with a BMW capable programme Dave

I have a 2010 750 LiX with a continuous dash display that says I need to replace the battery in the key fob. Sometimes the engine won't start or stop unless I hold the fob against the steering wheel. Any thoughts?

Morning Mike Fuse box should be near side of the engine bay against the bulkhead so easy to get at with a couple of main loom penetrations into the Cabin. Never liked hacking into cables with splices etc 😁 Dave

Morning Shaun Welcome to the Forum We love Christmas puzzles 😁 but a few more clues may help us the code poo87 just tells us you have a fuel pressure issue ?? What engine is it ? When did it have its last service (not just an oil change) ? Possible causes could be, (1) Faulty Fuel pump or Fuel pump relay (2) Clogged/Blocked Fuel Filter (3) Faulty fuel pressure sensor (4) Faulty fuel pressure regulator (5) Leaking or damaged fuel lines (6) Air/vacuum leaks on the inlet side Those are just the simple ones that spring to mind, the code you have is a Generic code a Diagnostic scan with a BMW capable scanner may give more information. Always remember any code should be treated as a symptom not always the answer Hope this helps Have a Great Christmas Dave

I don't think I have any fuses in the glove box. My front fuse box is in the engine compartment. The stereo will be a good place to find one. 😊

There is a fuse board in the glove box? Or the stereo will use a switched positive.

Hello I have a bmw f21 when the car is cold it starts and runs fine but when it gets hot it won’t start and comes up with error code p0087 any idea please

Thanks guys. Yes I have done that for my dashcam but I was hoping not to have to run another lead the length of the car. Thought there might be something I could tap into in the dashboard area. I only need a very low current supply for an immobiliser I'm making.

Morning! As Dave suggested, use a piggy back fuse from the fuse board. I used to do this regular with VW campers for stereos as they don’t have switched power as standard. What is it you need to power?

Hi James You could try companies such as ECU Testing or Cartronix another alternative may be get the Part number and search Dismantlers like Quarry Motors Before replacing it though some Talc puffed along and around the boot seals then a wash may give clues to where it is getting in, but more important check the boot floor seal/drain is not blocked. If you have a sun roof make sure the drains are clear Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Not looked at a 2 series but with a friend of our son we took a piggyback feed with it's own fuse from the fuse box Take a look at your fuse box look for something like seat adjustment, don't know what you want to power but we used a 10 amp as the feed Good Luck Dave

Is there a convenient place in the cabin to pick up a 12V feed that is only on when the ignition is on ?

I’ve just discovered that water leaking in to the rear boot left side is a common problem, I don’t know how the water gets in but my sound amplifier was in about 3 inches of water. Does anyone know if the amp can be fixed or replaced with an aftermarket amp or is it a case of having to buy another bmw amp Thanks

Thx for your feed back , appreciate thx fingers crossed

Hi Rob Have you looked at the 3 series I am sure they can't be that different, if there is nothing there then it's the after market suppliers !! Dave

Hi Stephen All fuses checked ? As you have had a recall best talk to them when your there Dealers normally run a Diagnostic check during a recall and advise of any updates needed Good Luck getting it working hopefully with minimum cost 😁 Dave

Morning Jordan Welcome to the Forum The code your seeing is in my experience normally tied to 3 suspects (1) Battery, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good health. Engine off test the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet anything below 12.5v would indicate a problem. Engine running test again you should see 14.5+v (alternator good) (2) Steering angle sensor, these don't often fail but not impossible, driving forwards turning lock to lock normally resets and clears it. (3) Transfer case fault, Again normally robust but the poor old Gearbox and Transfer case are often ignored (even by Dealers) and not serviced. So check for any signs of leaks changing the Transfer case fluid is straight forward just make sure it is correct for your car (tip always make sure you can undo the Fill plug before draining, seen two where folks drained and then couldn't refill). Also when stopping listen for clicking noises under the drivers seat in some cases the nylon activation gear can wear/strip and may need replacing (plenty of "how too's" on the net So I would start with simple stuff, Battery first then clear the codes and check again you may need the help of someone with a Diagnostic program to clear faults i the memory. If the Battery is the culprit then just changing it should clear the faults and lock to lock reset the steering angle sensor. Fingers crossed its a cheap easy fix Dave

Hi Dave , thx for replying, it all works heater blows and heater emblem appears flashing, however the heaters does not get hot the X1 I had did a great job , I know she has had a recall for starting motor and she does need a software update , would that cure it ? Thank you Steve

Morning Mathew I guess we know what you would like for Christmas 😅 I would contact the Kit makers to either speak with them or get some Idea of what is involved. If your taking off Door Cards etc to connect the lighting I would do the speakers (so you don't end up with that wish I had done that feeling) You will need access to a Diagnostic program that has programming capability so that it is registered on your iDrive then if you have Carplay I would think it should work from your phone Good Luck Dave